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[Seaspray]

Life Raft Davits and Funnel Crane
pic 1 from the plan but it seems to be an old drawing so I worked from a picture taken on board
pic 2 all the parts cut out for assembly
pic 3 the 2 davits and funnel cranes assembled also a fitted the securing straps on the life rafts foreground

just the 3 build pics as the computer crashed but a bonus of pics inside her engine room. When we were up on deck talking about the engines i was told the engines were running and running backward there was hardly and vibration in the engine room

[Seaspray]

The Bin
pic 1 starting to assemble bin get things nice and square
pic 2 when marking up I like to use the knife for marking as it get a lot closer to the job and leaves a thin line
pic 3 bin frame completed
pic 4 template used to make a mock up of hopper
pic 5 ply parts cut from the templates
pic 6 hopper glue up
pic 7 fitting the platform and support legs
pic 8 ladder fitted awaiting spraying

[ballastanksian]

The detail and effort you are putting into your Scotia is impressive. The ladders and handles are especially good.

[Seaspray]

Hi ballastanksian

Cheers lots of hold backs and rework but its coming together. Got the hull in 2009 and I think this is another 10 year build like the Meteor l.o.l.

More of the build on forum tonight (hopefully)

[Seaspray]

Bin and Guard continued

pic 1 starting to shape the guard from the plan
pic 2 guard soldered up what a mess stripped down resoldered
pic 3 guard offered up into place holes in  deck predrilled
pic 4 bin and guard in place looks o.k. but a lot more work in this area to do

[ballastanksian]

She'll be worth the time spent with all those brass structures alone.

[Seaspray]

Cheers ballastanksian

just working on the bridge soon on forum

[Seaspray]

Cofferdam Deck

pic 1 is the plan of the cofferdam deck and base of bridge deck
pic 2 I tried to make the windows by drilling out round the edge then file to the window frame line try 1
pic 3 then I tried to remove the wood from inside the window frame line with a wood chisel  try 2
I opted for try 1 as I found that the rear of the chiseled out windows try 2 the ply was splitting
pic 4 std side frame into position and started to glue up round the corner
pic 5 port and std and back frame glued up fitting like a glove
pic 6 front support brace fitted and all glued up and clamped

[Capt Podge]

Getting the windows cut out is something that many of us struggle with. My preferred method is the chain-drilling then filing to the edges and finishing the corners with either flat or round files (depending on the type of window aperture that is being cut out).

Your efforts are showing promise of another fine model.

Regards,

Ray.

[Seaspray]

Ray 
I prefer the chain file method as you can take your time and alter the file if need be. I think I've made a little measurement mistake on the bridge windows and the railings are not high enough but i am working on that by either getting stanchions a little bigger or solder two together to get the height Alternatively I need to glue some square pieces of wood blocks to the gantry ( have rebuilt this twice) so the stanchions will sit a little higher on the gantry. I'll give James Lane a bell to see what he has that might be a better course.

Anyway you'll see what i mean when I get to the bridge build soon. Can't wait to finish the Scotia as I will start building the Kontio Icebreaker and its from plank of frame hull full scratch build  I really drop myself into it at times   

[Seaspray]

Having to make about 16 + goosenecks and they're shaped like the one moulded I decided to have a go at casting This is different to the casting I know of using resins

pics 1 Is the moulding plastic product called Blue Stuff
pic 2  I was going to use this mix ExPoPutty (mainly used  for aquariums) but decided to use Muliputt as it was cheaper for first tries of moulding
pic 3  Comes in stick of 4 or 8 which you pop in to very hot water for a few minutes
pic 4  I decided to use the wooden master for trial purposes
pic 5  Is the moulded piece on the left in Muliputt. Very happy with a first go and will clean up the wooden master

When  finished moulding  this shape you  can put the Blue Stuff back into hot water and reuse it A point to watch is to have your work area really clean as not to pick up rubbish off surface

A write up

Blue Stuff sticks is a new generation of thermo plastic molding material which can be reduced to mouldable conditions by inmmersion in hot water during 3 minutes. It will allow you to create an instant mold of any piece you wanted by pressing the plastic material against the piece you want to have the mold made from.

[Capt Podge]

That doesn't look too bad.

For a quick-fix it looks to be a good idea but, I'm curious to know how many moulded parts you would get from the one "impression" before needing to make another copy of the master ?

...just thinking out loud, so to speak.

Regards,

Ray.

[Seaspray]

Ray
I think you would be able to make a good amount anyway you could  make a new mould in the in ten minutes its just a case of boiling the kettle and put the old moulded part in the hot water for a few minutes then repress the master in place
Just got to let the first part get cold before you press the second part which should be done hot . Muliputt goes in each half of the mould then compressed together gives you plenty of time

Time will tell

[Capt Podge]

Time will tell

 

Regards,

Ray.

[Seaspray]

Still work on the Cofferdam / Bridge decks

pic 1 top cut out sanded and fitted note the sturdy piece of ply in the front
pic 2 middle supports templates cut out  the ply doing its job
pic 3 from the templates the ply supports are cut out
pic 4 further template to aid in cutting out the front out
pic 5 wooden supports glue in position and ply front cut out
pic 6 MK 1 front cross sections for support and in 3 parts to allow for angle front there is a camber there to.
pic 7 on the plan for to get the angle and camber right tricky
pic 8 windows marked out looks o.k. but later on in the build I had to alter them because of the angle /camber         the outside windows were to high.

[Seaspray]

The Bridge
pic 1 Using the Blue stuff and the Epo putty /muliputt I made a few samples of the goosenecks these are the 4  up on the left. I made  more from wooden dowel it was quicker because the curing time for the muliputt/ epo putty was overnight. I think this was due to having to stay in the mould. Not really into casting but this could be a handy method of making parts The edges of the blue stuff after 4 copies didn't have any wear Anyway a new mould could be made in 15 minutes
pic 2 How easy it was to make a gooseneck using wooden dowel just 3  45 degrees cuts.
pic 3 The rise from the cofferdam deck for the bridge floor
pic 4 Cutting out the Windows using the fret saw method
pic 5 The 3 front bridge walls cut out sanding and mated up
pic 6 The bridge floor with the overhangs fitted sanded ready for the wall also the   superstructure in place  on the model to check its a good fit
pic 7 From the plan this first section was going to be glued into position but templates required to give the correct angle or tilt of the bridge outer walls
pic 8 My favourite picture It is a model of the Scotia in a bottle i believe ( but don't quote me) built by John Dunn who showed us around the Scotia to get the pictures and info needed to build the model The model was fitted through the neck of the bottle No the bottom of the bottle wasn't cut out and then refitted

[ballastanksian]

Milliput and Epoxy resins cure by chemical reaction once mixed, so unless the mould is warm or cold, or the putty was poorly mixed or too much/too little of the hardner element was used, which will affect curing times, the milliput will be cured overnight wether covered or not.

I am impressed with the results you are getting, and also the two part mould you made 

[Seaspray]

There like everything else there was a knack in getting the 2 part mould just right and both parts at the right depth. and aligned exactly. I notice if the resin part of muliputt wasn't equal with the other part ( yellow) when mixing your hands went yellow and if it was the other way it was off too quickly The epo putty to me, was softer and smoother than muliputt But there will be other products to try out there.

Reply 160 pic 5 is just about right for aligning up and depth of the master

[Seaspray]

The Bridge
pic1 3 front section windows cut out and tacked into position
pic 2 using templates to get the angles of the bridge walls correct
pic 3 oops missed these windows had to cut them out in situ
pic 4 this to me was a tricky part to build as there is ladders to fit here
pic 5 & 6 templates used for the bridge floor and roof
pic 7 the roof and floor cut out in ply bridge walls completed 
pic 8 bridge and cofferdam structure offered up to model, fits a treat
pic 9 got these from Squires Crafts got feed up of my snipers being ruined by cutting piano wire,  they leave a nice straight cutting edge  Down side they leave a couple of mm wire sticking out cause of their wide jaws

[Seaspray]

The Bridge
pic 1 & 2 got some scrap wood and made a quick representation of the inside of bridge furniture and painted it up
pic 3  a guessed  attempt to build the gantry as I have only two references on the plan a side view stb side and a line on the top view grantry template in place
pic 4 the gantry supports  were square styrene pierces glued under bridge floor
pic 5 gantry completed with brass mesh fitted with bridge roof offered up
pic 6 looks alright looking into bridge still to sand roof walls level  to fit roof

[Seaspray]

Well here we go again the grantry had to be stripped down as it was too low. I  discovered this when I offered the stanchions up in their place, millimeters out

The eight pictures tell the rebuild story the last 2 are the completed rebuild including the brass mesh floor in place.

[Seaspray]

Last few pics you'll notice the grantry side support is now glued to the bridge outside walls Thats the grantry at the right height now and where it should be

[Capt Podge]

More mistakes, more re-doing, but well worth it in the end - smashing job on that gantry.

Regards,

Ray.

[Seaspray]

Ray
Cheers again I've already reworked the paint work on the cofferdam and bridge section twice  Either it is bad spraying or the ply is too old I also have a paint problem at the moment of what type to use I had a reaction on the goosenecks so bad they had to be scrapped that was cellulose sanding sealer then rattle can halford's primer them humbrol enamel white Then boof what a reaction there was but it was about an hour later

I bought humbrol white acrylic no 22 and it was as thin as milk intructions on the tinlet had a picture of an airbrush so I now take it it is for airbrushing I also find the rattle can of etching primer just has to be touched a little and it falls off

[ballastanksian]

Sorry to hear about your paint problems especially if it means throwing hard work away  The bridge with its detail and 'innards' is fantastic. I like the mesh floor of the gantry. Are you going to crew her?

Keep up the good work