Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Seaspray]

ballastanksian

Never thought of crewing the model but its an idea you put in me old head I use an other model for assistance if i don't have the correct pictures and its crewed See image.

Never had this trouble on the Meteor and it was all sprayed with rattle cans but used a lot of masking tape

[Seaspray]

further rework
pic 1 rubbed it down again and didn't like the looks of the handrails so removed them
pic 2 I removed the handrail  from the little wall supports and cleaned the lot up
pic 3 ordered some packets of these O gauge handrail knobs and will be usine these
pic 4 Some of them needed to be cleaned out but it was only a little swarf
pic 5 bit tricky putting the handrails back onto the model
pic 6 & 7 I think they look a lot better now all are fitted
pic 8 this is the way I level the bridge roof top 

[Seaspray]

Looks good so far

[ballastanksian]

Deffo very neat.

[derekwarner]

The brass etched boxed walkway material surrounding the bridge looks superb  ......how are you going to treat this?.......

A chemical process...[blackening] can turn this to any shade of greenish/bronze/black and is only a surface change to a few micron in depth and a few micron as an oxidised surface finish

To the naked eye, you would never perceive any change in the mesh plate surface width, depth or thickness of the cross sections

On the real vessel, I suspect any rain or spray water would simply fall through the mesh, then through boxed in scupper plates and drains to the main deck level

Derek

[Seaspray]

ballastanksian  cheers mate it got to look neat and a treat or its binned hence all the rework

Derek

I don't think what you use as a building material these days it will deterate in time. I have templates and more brass to hand if things go sour. Also hopefully with a coat of etching primer and two coats of white primer and a top coat of appliance white it should last a reasonable time Ofcoure the primer coats were rubbed down and a few mesh hole had to be cleaned out with a 0.4 mm drill

[Seaspray]

The pulley frame
Pic 1 parts cut out for assembly
Pic 2 the walkway brass mesh cut to shape from template
pic 3 part for the railings
pic 4 railing soldered to frame later I fitted the railing legs inside the frame
pic 5 parts to build the pulleys
pic 6 & 7 & 8 frame in place note pic 8 I refitted the clear plasticard to the windows as there was some with glue on them.  I refitted PVC clear windows but they were easy scratch while being cut to size I reverted to Bayer brand as they were better quality and had a protective film on them bought from stationroadbaseboards.co.uk and finally glued the the bridge furniture in place Looks a lot better now

[Seaspray]

Bridge gantry railings doing a catch up as pics are still out of build sequence
pics 1 use the gantry as a template to shape the rails
pic 2 all the rails to shape for port and starboard sides
pic 3 parts use to build the rear cofferdam deck railings
pic 4 started to build the railing in situ but didn't like this and went back to building railing on the thin brass base
pic 5 the port railing soldered and offered up in position
pic 6 starboard rail soldered and etch primed in position
pic 7 port railing etched and in position ladder offered up to check things are o.k. for space
i have went on further than this as the computer crashed the pics are scrambled hopefully were now on track
ob
If you look closely in the last picture you'll see the contaminated paint surface I let it settle and sanded the surface
apply a gray primer after a week I painted in white i believe the problems with the paint came from the new flux I was using now using the old flux

[Seaspray]

Pic 1 the 2 ladders rebuilt to be used to get up to the gantry
pic 2 gantry rails altered to fit new ladders soldered in position
pic 3 rails spray up
pic 4 cofferdam railing assembled offered into position and then removed and sprayed up
pic 5 rails  / cranes / liferafts  / window inserted / I.D number and a final coat of varnish

now the bridge roof

[Capt Podge]

A lot of very complicated work going on here but the results are showing through nicely. Great to see it evolving - thank you.

Regards,

Ray.

[Seaspray]

Ray 
I feel the build  quality and paint finish is not as good as on the Meteor
Half way doing the bridge roof and a little stuck due to not much in the way of photos so have switchd to doing the work boat and rescue boat till some pictures turn up.

[Seaspray]

The Cofferdam deck is green not white so it was a strip down all parts, sanded down surface and resprayed the deck green relaced all parts also added the rope ladders covered with their haps I used plasticine for this, Started on the bridge roof

[Seaspray]

continuing with bridge roof / wind deflector

pic 1 after doing the templates started the build using ply this corner was a little tricky to get right
pic 2  pieces of ply for the top of the deflector
pic 3  tops being glued into place
pic 4  tops glued and sanding to a good fit
pic 5  support cut and glued into position
pic 6  all the supports fitted
pic 7  sprayed the underside of roof to create some light inside bridge

[Seaspray]

pics 1,2, Bridge roof finished and offered in position
pic   3 Setting about to build the navigation mast not much on plan about this so its build from the pictures I've source of the net


Up to date on the build now

[hama]

Wow! Great work, she will be amazing when finished.
Thanks for sharing.
Hama

[Seaspray]

hama  appreciated

[Starspider]

Great skills and very nice build.
COlin

[Seaspray]

Starspider    cheers

[bfgstew]

Must agree, your craftsmanship is enviable.
My work is as good as yours from about 100 metres away and if you squint a bit.......


Stewart

[Seaspray]

bfgstew  cheers

[Seaspray]

The mast
Went for a build in brass wish I hadn't we got there in the end I dislike soldering 2 or 3 different sizes of brass cause of the heat control good clean up needed

pic 1 the plan doesn't give much info
pic 2 I managed to blow up a picture taken while on the ship and will be using this I'll take the height from     
        the plan and work from there
pic 3 started with the base on the centre post
pic 4 parts cut and laid out for assembly
Pic 5 started soldering using a little jig to keep side arms straight and level
pic 6 job done good clean up offered into position looks goods navigation light a and radar and other bits an
        pieces to be fitted later
        Been getting a lot of dirty solder joints been using 11 old solder and 8 years old flux and the brass i think   
        is B & Q  brass I prefer KS brand. Think its a time to buy new items

[ballastanksian]

Wowsers, that roof and it's deflector is impressive  The masts are not to be sniffed at either with the complex foot. Great work as to be expected old solder or not.

[derekwarner]

Seaspray...you are doing fine.....

Could I ask...are you using a small gas torch?.......oxidised solder will contribute to rubbish floating on the solder.......I too experienced issues with an 8 year old bottle of Bakers liquid flux with about 20% remaining ....and replaced it with a new bottle & my issues disappeared

I read all of the builds from a Canadian member [Jerry????} who built some amazing soft soldered brass scale gun mounts & other structures. He used an elaborate but simple method of heat sinks for close proximity with previously soldered joints \

I will see if I can go back & find his threads 

Derek

[Seaspray]

ballastanksian
cheers  again took a while to do the base. It was different diameters tubes and a flat section of brass causes the problem getting the right heat and  took a few hours to get it done it did need a good clean up. Once the mast is finished It'll be doing the railings around and on top of the wind deflector again nowt on plan just pictures to go on

Derek  I spoke to you sometime ago about this problem and have since then bought a soldering flame gun like the one in the forground in your picture I was tempted to tackle the mast using it but too cold in the shed to do.Also I  would like to do some practice using it firstly. Yes I did have rubbish floating on the joint but a cleanup with 600 wet n dry did the trick never been great at soldering without using flux me i like bakers but have never got round to buying some so I'll buy some a.s.a.p. and start using it. I used bakers flux in the 60s trying to fill a hole in the white metal bearing on a big end of a 1937 Wolseley i had as the engineers said to try it as it would cost a lot for them to do it I can put a piece of copper pipe on its end on a piece of flat surface using a Qtip put a smear of baker flux around the edge where the two meet drop a small piece of solder on the bakers and chase the solder around the copper pipe and get a great finish perfect joint but can't do this with these small items being built I used a lot of makeshift heat sinks to no affect so If you find the link for Jerry's soldering it would be appreciated

[Seaspray]

The mast has been completed and far from happy the amount of heat sinks used started to interfere with the job I'll also consider the next brass work to be done in wood but first will buy KS brass and new solder also change to bakers flux

Pic 1 the top part of the mast but was altered  and fitted later
pic 2 a good clean up and joints need checking before the etching primer is sprayed on
pic 3 mast offered in place now that was a good tight fit  the ladders just cleared the roof parts

I have added another light support on the bottom right missed this as i didn't see it for thr wind deflector/ camera angle