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[Seaspray]

Frames

pic1 Final shape of frames in plywood

pic 2,3,4 Offered into position little trim or gusset fill  here and there.

pic 5, 6 Fiberglass / resin  into position. Looks nice and square.

Centers of ply removed but not to loose weight but access to parts of model when deck is fitted 

[Seaspray]

pic 1. glued in some deck supports with square obeshi  just to see whats what about deck level After a visit ti Scotia its confirmed there is a little lip above deck so the wood is at the correct height
pic 2 . Rudder support on outside of hull. It was shaped like the rudder and had taper outwards up to the hull. got this taper by adjusting my sander table to 45% doing as much of it while still attached to the piece of wood in photo. Cut to size the  little that was left done  carefully as I didn't need a manicure.
pic 3. finished part glued into position clamped till set. Couple of coats of sandsealer to finish
pic4. Rudder shaft drilled and pieces brass rod soldering in to give support
pic. 5. Rudder shape cut out
pic6. Rudder clamped n vice overnight to cure

[Seaspray]

pic 1. resined a piece of ply to strengthen the area where rudder is and fitted brass tube and washer in position. The tube is a sliding fit over the rudder tube. The  washer  with another washer and greased between then as a swivel platform.
pic 2. Both resined in place
pic 3. Sawed the top of the earth pin on a 13 amp plug. Made a servo rudder arm from brass flat, drilled a holes for rudder tube and servo linkage holes. Tinned assembly
pic 4. Used vice as heatsink. Then soldered the two together using loads of heat. A brass rod used to keep the holes in line.
pic 5. Rudder unit finished with lots of coats applied to the balsa wood part of rudder to give strength. Should have maybe used ply.
pic 6. Finished rudder assembly in place. Center brass tube top cut to size and a sliding piece of brass rod glued inside tube down inside rudder for rigidity.

Note I have to keep the rudder arm low as possible because of the  slip way angle

[Seaspray]

Motor coupling shaft installed. Motor is a Sun 555, shaft too long cut to size. Hugo coupling 4mm pain coupling side and 4mm threads prop size. I prefer direct drive but any problems I'll change to a 3:1 drive using HPC Gears,Chesterfield. Pulleys and ribbed drive belt as on the Meteor.

pic 1. Shaft and coupling. The coupling has been glued dead straight and used to line up motor/ shaft
pic 2. Shaft was too long. Steel shaft removed and brass tube cut to size. Bearing remove from unwanted tube part  refitted to shaft making correct length
pic 3. Parts that were cut 
pic 4. Hole drilled in bras tube and using piece of scrap tubing an oil feed made
pic 5. A small dimple made in shaft to retain grub screw from coupling
pic 6. Same with motor shaft. I've has shaft slip in the past but none since i used this method.

[Seaspray]

pic 1. Drive system completed ready to go into model. A Raboesch 50mm 4 blade 4mm threads prop fitted with a Robbe mount
pic 2. Sits nice in the little hollow in hill bottom.
pic 3. Shaft in position aft section filled with araldite to secure
pic 4. Suppression capacitors fitted. This takes care of noise from the motor Made up of one 0.047uf and two 0.1uf  caps
pic 5. Test in bath pulling 5 amps. On full power against its own prop wash and held steady. Amps may be less once in the pond
pic 6. Rudder and prop fully fitted and looks right to plan . Will put a coat of resin and tissue over rudder to give more strength

The motor was brought to its level by a layer of P38 bed. When this had set a little tap on the motor to remove it, then a layer of resin on the P38 to seal it. When dry motor replaced with a layer of resin and tissue covering the mount to fix it to the hull. This lets me remove the motor with a light cut on the tissue with a dremel. Should i need to change to 3:1 gearing

[Capt Podge]

Still tagging along with your build - some interesting techniques being used here
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Seaspray]

Cheers Ray appreciated 

I meant to mention the Robbe mount was used because it has a big open front area down the middle. Which will help in allowing the motor to get a air flow through it for cooling. If not I'll fit a cooling coil. I replace the cheese head slotted screws with Allen bolts and spring washers as its easier to get them out and in, in a confined space.

Rubber servo fitting tomorrow. 

[Seaspray]

The rudder servo

pic 1. One piece of square wood  bearer at the back and two on the front was enough to have the servo  sit level in the model. Back one glued to rib using PVA and the front to hull using araldite later a little resin.

pic 2. Checking servo is lined up with the rudder.

pic 3. Link rods fitted. Note the clips are metal to plastic and plastic to metal and the north and south servo arm removed to stop fowling with the other two when turning. Links  bent low going to the rudder to clear  the slipway

[Seaspray]

Pics 1. and 2.
Wasn't happy with the inside of the hull where the battery will be. So I resined a layer of tissue in place

Pic 3. Out with the profile gauge again to get the right shape for the battery platform cross bearers.

Pic 4. The bearers being made.

Pic 5. With the bearers glued to the platform they were then glued to the hull in the right place Near midships and centered. Battery used as weight

Pic 6, Straight line used and its looks good to me.

[thething84]

Hey. build is looking great. Now looking to get a profile gauge. never really thought of having one in the box. I just cut a piece of cardboard and kept trimming it till I got the profile. A gauge would make it a lot easier.

On a side not. Laying the gel cell on its side is fine but they are not weighted the same on the side. You will find the c of g is not about the middle of the batter side on.

[Seaspray]

Hi thething84

Cheers mate. Yea I know the gell cell is heavier on the top but with everything in line below decks its a starting point to ballast the model when completed. I did this idea with the Meteor  and it can turn fast. Saying that ( Scotia) she sits straight up on in the bath as can be seen in the following pic. This time its a 6 volt battery sitting up and it is only pulling about 2.5 amps

[Seaspray]

pic 1. Finished off battery tray  by adding pieces of square wood all round.  Two curtain hooks and a elastic band  to stop battery moving. The esa was screwed to cross 2 bearers with servo screws and these were glued to a piece of ply alardited to the hull.

pic 2. Wires from esa. right one taped up to enable BEC mode on esa. Left one given couple coats of black marker pen and varnished.  No excuse for wrong connections to battery now.

pic 3. Drilling out holes and counter sinks on angle plasticard for the bilge  keels

pic 4. Trimming off screws in hull.

pic 5.  The heat in the screws melted the plasticard keel and the screw popped out. Got away with           
          only having to make one keel

[thething84]

lol. Just checking. I didn't realise it till someone mentioned it on here. Obviously had to go a check myself lol. Looking good though. Wish I had a designated place to build model. I have to keep getting stuff out then putting it away so sorta puts me off doing little bits. along with having a nearly 3 yr old makes it difficult to do it.

[Seaspray]

Been there regards a young family. I used a folding card table in my day.I even had a i.c. engine test mount on it and ran up my old Frog ..80 diesel on it. Great days eh.. But I do know a modeller that builds his models on the kitchen table and they are award winning models.

[Seaspray]

The rubbing ribs made from 5mm half round plasticard with a taper each end

pic 1. Ribs cut to size
pic 2. A little roughing up for the araldite to grip.
pic 3. 3 Rubbing  strips fitted port side and damaged bilge keel removed new one glued and screwed into position.
pic 4. 4 Rubbing strips fitted starboard side and original bilge  keel not damaged
pic 5. Inside of hull becomes the bulwark and was rough looking needed attention.
pic 6. A layer of P38 applied and rubbed down looks a lot better. Will check later with a spray of primer

[Seaspray]

Pics 1. & 2. Got some strips of obechi and glued two pieces of 6mm x 3mm together to use as deck bearers

Pic 3. Lots of claps used to make sure the bearers are well stuck closely to the hull inside using araldite.

pic 4. Bearers in glued in position in aft section

pic 5. Deck bearer clamped on stern using a piece of the deck ply to give the correct distance from the scupper

pic  6. Couple of pieces of cardboard in place to give an idea to how the decking ply pieces will be laid out for access to the running gear. Up on main / forecastle  decks is a photo copy of the plan to help with layout of cofferdam and bridge decks

[Seaspray]

Just finished building the area the trawl door gallows are stored. There were built using plasticard and I've decided to rebuild them using wood. Not a plasticard fan.

[Seaspray]

o.k. all change to wood

pic 1. Drilling out the slot for the scuppers the usual precaution of backing wood to stop splintering as the drill breaks through.
pic 2. Half way on into  the assembly
pic 3. rebuilt and glued into position just some filling and tidying up.
pic 4. Clamps every where to give nice tight joint to hull. This is the rest of the aft working deck bearers. When dry I'll make a cardboard template from which I'll  make  the wooden deck.

Now that I know the deck high I can now go ahead and build the slipway . It will be full enclosed in case I reverse the model and it acts as a scoop pouring water into the model.

[Mad Scientist]

Wow! It appears that we have found someone who actually has enough clamps!

Tom

[thething84]

i think the correct term is not someone who has enough clamps mad scientist. Its someone who can find enough clamps from the mass of clamps he knows he has somewhere. I have loads of clamps here and there but i'll be darned if i can find enough when i want them.
 
Still tagging along. Coming along nicely
 
James.

[DavieTait]

I would be careful to make sure the ramp is fully sealed , as in all stern trawlers with a ramp in any chop ( even running over other boats wash ) you will get water coming up the ramp , once she's in the water another thing to watch out for is going from full ahead to zero power as the prop wash will catch up and run right up the ramp if you simply shut the motor off , she has a storm gate with a roller on top at the top of the ramp it might be an idea to model this in the up position so you limit any water up onto the main deck ( unless of course you want working net drums/winches and tow a net )

[Seaspray]

Mad Scientist

 More clamps used I've 20 in all. Got feed up with using the spring type cloths pegs so went for it.

thething84

You'll have to have a place for everything (tools) like me. Of course it took decades of looking for my tools before this to click.

Davie

Yes I've had a look at this. I am  gluing the slipway as one unit and then offering it into the the model and resined and fiberglass it to the stern.  But there is a problem between the top of the slipway and the removable aft working deck. Its the area between the Castles right at where the deck underside meets the slipway top. They'll be a gap there. I was thinking of a seal in that area like I did on the Meteor or maybe best sealed all round this lower deck with glued rubber bands on top of the bearers. A couple of screws or small bolts on top of deck with captured nuts  under the bearer tightened may do the trick . Nice to hear from you

I don't think I am going as far as working gear on her. But wish I had the skill to do it

pic 1.  More clamps l.o.l. raising frame one to the deck height
pic  2. Bearer on frame one Not too caring how the model looks below decks as long as it is neat and square above
pic  3. bearers glued all round rear section nice and straight




 

[DavieTait]

Thinking back the storm gate was always raised apart from the time to shoot or haul the gear back , its a safety system for the crew to make sure they don't get washed down the ramp

[Seaspray]

Davie

Looking at your picture I am considering the two bulwarks up to including the ramp around the slipway area, Will be glued to the hull and not removable. Something to ponder on over next couple of days.   

[Seaspray]

Starting to build the anchor
Pic 1 The picture of the anchor on the real Scotia and it's looks tricky to do considering it scale size
pic 2 Cut parts getting ready to glue together and its my pet hate again plasticard
pic 3 Parts glued together and looking half reasonable lookalike
pic 4 Tacked part  to some plasticard offered up to see if they look o.k. in position. Will clean up the open area with a file and  wet n dry before final gluing part in position with araldite
pic 5  As a precaution I resined the back of the plasticard to the hull incase the glue didn't hold  up.
pic 6  Clamps again holding the tacked breastplate in position while glue dries used araldite
pic 7  Glued dry clamps off and a strip of tissue/ resin underneath plate applied to make sure it won't move. It will support the deck