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[southsteyne2]

Looks wonderful George and thank you for the build as i am sure it will be a great reference for everyone contemplating similar
Cheers and good health
John

[boneash]

Well done George a lovely project well described and pictured, Thank you.

A question about the lubricator, I presume the oil is extracted by vacuum on inlet differential, but how is the air replaced as the oil level reduces in service runs?

Rod

[ooyah/2]

Well done George a lovely project well described and pictured, Thank you.

A question about the lubricator, I presume the oil is extracted by vacuum on inlet differential, but how is the air replaced as the oil level reduces in service runs?

Rod

Hi Rod.

The needle valve only needs to be openned a crack, the steam from the steam line enters the lubricator and it condenses to water in the bottom of the lubricator and as the oil floats on water the water pushes the oil up and out a small hole and into the steam feed line to the cylinders, the thinner the wall on the lubricator the better the condensation.
It only needs the valve to be openned about 1/4 turn to let a whisper of oil into the cylinders.

Here is a pic of the oil feed hole to the steam line which I neglected to show earlier, notice that the 1/4" dia rod used for the valve box is waisted and the small C/Sink hole lets the oil into the steam line.

Hope this answers your question
George.

[boneash]

Thank you again George , well explained too.

Rod

[southsteyne2]

Hi George nice lubricator and next on my to do list, I have also built the boiler feed pump to your design and it works great ,only problem I have is It gets an air lock in the pump  bore and once steam pressure is up the air lock will not move hence I have to dismantle the pump piston to fill the pump with water and it's fine ,any idea how to fix this ,I know the feed line should be free of air but sometime s the tank will run out ,I did think about a stop cock on the feed before the clack valve but open to suggestions
Cheers
John

[ooyah/2]

Hi George nice lubricator and next on my to do list, I have also built the boiler feed pump to your design and it works great ,only problem I have is It gets an air lock in the pump  bore and once steam pressure is up the air lock will not move hence I have to dismantle the pump piston to fill the pump with water and it's fine ,any idea how to fix this ,I know the feed line should be free of air but sometime s the tank will run out ,I did think about a stop cock on the feed before the clack valve but open to suggestions
Cheers
John

Hi John,
I can't remember what sketch I sento you of a pump but all of the pumps that I have made have always worked.

I always push some clean water thro" the pump with a syringe  before starting as the balls in the valve box can be dry after a layup especially if they are" Nitrile "

If you put a bypass valve on the line between the pump and the clack in the boiler if you open that on start up the pump should pass water overboard, shut the valve and any air locks should be pumped out of the system, close the valve and it should have the pressure to pump into the boiler at any pressure that we use, these little pumps easily pump up to 300 p.s.i.

If you are carrying water on board it's best to have a positve head of water, negative head can cause air in the line  but the bypass valve should clear it.

Let me know how you get on.

George.

[ooyah/2]

FINISHED ENGINE.

Well guys that's the D10 finished I hope that it has been instructive.
Many thanks for all of your kind words.

Next project.

How about a Stuart SCORE engine ???

George.

[SailorGreg]

Thank you George for a thoroughly enjoyable conducted tour through your build.  A lovely job and a fine testament to your skills.

 

Greg

[Ramon]

'Hear Hear' to that George - an excellent discourse throughout.  A Score should follow that nicely too

Looking forwards to it

Regards - Ramon

[wrongtimeben]

Really enjoyed reading this post. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. The engine looks wonderful.

Ben

[dokterhoo]

Hi All,
As a complete newbie I found this thread by accident and am really glad I did. I bought a D10 on impulse, with zero knowledge and this was just what I needed to give me an insight into how it goes together.
Many thanks for  your time and effort - well done.
Dok

[jpdenver]

George,
I stumbled on this thread. I am adding a Reversing Gear setup to my D10.I share your feeling about using the straps in place of the rods/ends on the links.
Would you please be so kind as to provide me with the dimensions of the links and the distance between holes?
Thanks for providing the thread.
Regards,Jim PopeDenver, CO
USA

[jpdenver]

George,


Ignore my request.
Another Senior Moment.


Just found the Link info in the thread, I had not read far enough.


Thanks again.


Jim Pope

[ooyah/2]

George,


Ignore my request.
Another Senior Moment.


Just found the Link info in the thread, I had not read far enough.


Thanks again.


Jim Pope

Hi Jim ,
Glad that you have found the page with the description, I was trying to send a scanned picture of the Drag links but the pic from my scanner doesn't  come out as a jpg and I can't change it, that's why in my thread it's a pic from my camera which is jpg.


George.

[ooyah/2]

HI Jim,
After a computer lesson from my good lady wife I have been shown how to change the scanner pic to an acceptable
gif for the forum


So to see if I have it correct here is a better pic.


George.

[ooyah/2]

Hi Jim,
Just had a thought, if you are to install your D10 in a working boat with the Stevenson reverse gear can I suggest that you make the flywheel with a taper lock to the main shaft.
I have found in the past that with a large prop on a boat when at full power forward and an emergency stop is required and reverse is immediately selected if the flywheel is grub screwed to the shaft it it just tears a grove in the shaft and in the past to counter this I have drilled a hole in the shaft with a taper pin thro' the flywheel and the shaft.
All of the D10's that I have since built I make a taper lock sleeve.


Just a thought.
George.

[xrad]

Nice work ooyah.  Do you 'cone' the driveshaft as well(cone in a cone)? Or just use the cone compressed by flywheel via flywheel nut onto the standard crankshaft?


What size slit saw are you using? Hand cut or machine cut?


Thx

[jpdenver]

George,

Thanks for all the tips. I really appreciate them and I am sure others do too.

In my case I have the full set of parts from Stuart for both the Reversing Gear and the Feed Pump.
And I am adding them after I built the original kit.

I just spent the better part of the weekend working on the eccentrics and sheaves.

I decided to use the 4-jaw method in order to match the original offsets from the
first set of eccentrics. If I was doing it over I would have used your 3-jaw method.

It took me over an hour to get things right!

My Mill and Lathe are Sherline, which has some advantages and also challenges for me.
I would be lost with put their DRO option, but sometimes wish they were just a little bit
larger.

Thanks again,
Jim

[ooyah/2]

Nice work ooyah.  Do you 'cone' the driveshaft as well(cone in a cone)? Or just use the cone compressed by flywheel via flywheel nut onto the standard crankshaft?


What size slit saw are you using? Hand cut or machine cut?


Thx

If you go back to the first pic you can see that there are 3- parts The nut, taper sleeve and the tapered bored  flywheel. I set the top slide at 5deg and machine the taper and bore the flywheel out on the same setting.


The taper sleeve goes into the flywheel and then on to the 9/32" dia shaft, a washer is fitted and then the nut which pulls the flywheel onto the taper sleeve and locks it in place.
The taper sleeve has 2- slots cut a t 90deg to each other with a new 32 t.p.i. hacksaw blade, this allows the taper sleeve to lock the flywheel on.
I use a Hacksaw as I don't have any Slit saws.


George.

[IanJ]

Hello George,


New to the forum and paying catch up. Just been following your build of a Stuart D10 which was of great interest as I built a D10 last year and recently added a water pump and reversing gear. Unlike yours, I followed the plans and agree with you that the proposed reversing linkage by Stuart's is very fiddly indeed and needs to be 'glued' (locktite) together which is not ideal. Your linkage is much better. It's also an arrangement Stuart's use in the Twin Launch & Compound Launch. Intend to change mine and follow your example. You will note that my D10 is fitted with a non-marine type fly wheel that came with the kit of castings, I intend to replace it for a disc wheel and employ your tapper fitting and remove present bed plate. Looking to put it into a suitable boat one day.


Photo 1 is the D10 as originally built and the subsequent ones show it in its present form now fitted with pump and reverse gear.


Regards


Ian

[rhavrane]

Bonjour Ian,
For a future prject, I am the same step as you. A friend is enhancing for me a D10, we have ordered the reverse and the pump castings to Stuart. They quindly helped us because of the language barrier... Main diffreence with the original plan, a sheet of 1 mm brass for the side valve to protect it from rust  and plugs on the cylinder head cover for oil after navigation.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM4BnMqLYY5sFxUWEQ6kG1n1a6IvvV5fWU_nnEsXtz8Quo_1DYGzAmD3OZ35WW6cPg?key=MlJoWVpuUFk5cTROVHF1MjJHbWhVS3J3VTJyRGxn


Then I will have to order the appropriate boiler...

[jpdenver]

George,
(And anyone else)

Referring back to replay #97-98  on page 4.

I am adding a reversing set to my already running D10. So I have a set of eccentrics with bosses.
My spatial visualization is somewhat lacking these days. and I am trying to determine the orientation of the new
eccentrics in relation to the old.

So to paint a picture:

Each eccentric has a "lobe" - as the engine revolves the lobes move the sheaves up and down. 
Easy without the reversing kit.

With the reversing setup in place, each cylinder now has a second lobe on the crankshaft.
They are offset by 120 degrees.  I am trying to determine if the offset is in the same
direction for each cylinder.  as the cylinders are "mirrored" in orientation.

So:
When rotating in a CW direction, when viewed from the flywheel, Cylinder1, closest to the flywheel,
has the  "Bossed" outside eccentric lobe - leading the inside "new" eccentric lobe.

When you then turn the orientation of the engine so you are looking at the other end of the crank,
you are now rotating in a CCW direction. 

Big question:  Does the Bossed Eccentric Lobe on Cylinder 2 still LEAD or FOLLOW the lobe on the new eccentric?

---------
Same concept - but different view-

With the Eccentrics pinned together and the two sets side by side, are they identical in orientation?
or are they "Mirrored" ?

Hope this makes sense, I am at the point of drilling the holes for the pins and want to get my angles right.

Thanks again,
Jim Pope
Denver, CO
USA
 

[ooyah/2]

Hi Jim,
If you drill the 1/16" pin hole as per the drawing  on the eccentric that has the boss  ( 2- off )and the same as per the drawing for the eccentric without the boss ( 2- off ) it will become clear when you assemble them  as long as you keep the eccentric with the boss to the out side.


On making the reverse gear I have always followed the drawing and  never had any trouble.


George.

[jpdenver]

George

Thanks for the reply.
Have you noticed that the drawing for original Boss eccentric has the 60 degrees measured from the center of the eccentric,
but that the add-on eccentric drawing shows the 60 degrees measured from the middle of the crank shaft?

I am assuming that both should be measured from the same point?  but which one is correct?

Thanks,
Jim

[ooyah/2]

Yes Jim,
I noticed that and informed Stuart with no reply about 2 years ago, I use the dimension from the shaft C.L. on the eccentric without the boss.This is taken from the actual drawing for the D10 & 10V reverse gear, so do the same on the eccentric with the boss.


My apologies I should have mentioned that but it's a few years now since my last D10 build.


George.