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[ooyah/2]

Having just finished a STUART boiler feed pump, my next project is to machine up a set of D10 castings.
For anybody wishing to machine a D10 or a 10V a good book to have is BUILDING A VERTICAL STEAM ENGINE  by Andrew Smith which I think is available from Amazon, his instruction come in Metric and Imperial.
I started by cleaning up the Boxbed casting with a file to get rid of the casting flashings also the base plate, the first casting to be machined was the boxbed.

Pic No1
This was mounted on the lathe face plate with the top side to be machined first, with the lathe tool sharpened and honed a .010" cut was taken across the face,eventually 3- cuts were taken before I was satisfied .

Pic No2.
The boxbed was mounted onto a small face plate which is fitted to a round mandrel  which allows it to be held in the 3- jaw chuck.
I then proceeded to take several cuts until I reached the drawings dimension.

Pic No 3
Pic of the 2- face plates that I use, the big one came with the lathe the small one from a club mate which I made the mandrel for, it saves a lot of time for small jobs.

Pic No 4
Now it was the turn of the base plate, as the sides on the casting are square it can be mounted in the 4- jaw with outside jaws and roughly centered,
With the bottom side up it was machined taking about 3- cuts to clean the underside.

Pic No5
It was reversed in the chuck and the top side machined to give an o/all dimension of 1/2" from the underside to the top of the bearing blocks
All in all about 4-hrs work.
 
Next job to tackle is the main standard, I think that this is the most delicate procedure in the whole of the D10 process which I will describe next if anybody is interested.
 
George.
 
 

[Jerry C]

I'm watching and learning. Now I understand what a faceplate is. A useful Christmas pressie.
Jerry.

[derekwarner]

I am sure you will have many viewers from around the world watching this thread as it progresses George 

Compliments of the season to you.......Derek

[rhavrane]

Bonjour George,


I am the happy owner of D10 machines  (but just bought), the "Rolls Royce" of the steam machines to my opinion even if the iron cylinders can rust if not correctly oiled, and I am interested indeed to see how it was born.

In particular, I was very impressed when I saw that the water pump settings were made with sheets of paper !

Tug JAN one (plugs on cylinder heads for oil came later)


Cylinder segments milled in Teflon.


and HERE for tug Côte d'Emeraude (with plugs on cylinder heads for oil).

[ooyah/2]

Bonjour George,


In particular, I was very impressed when I saw that the water pump settings were made with sheets of paper !

Cylinder segments milled in Teflon.

Raphaël

I am sorry but I do not understand what you mean by the above statements.

George.

[rhavrane]

Bonjour George,

Sorry, my English is not perfect, especially when I have to explain a technical point.
As you can see it on the picture, the axis of the feed pump, which supports helical gear is perpendicular to the crankshaft axis.
When we screwed it, it was too tight, so, we have been obliged to put thin shims to give it some room to operate. And the friend who restored my D10 told me that Stuart used to make these shims with pieces of paper of the appropriate thickness. Unfortunately, I did not take any picture of them. Is it more clear for you now ?

[ooyah/2]

Raphaël

Thanks
I fully understand, yes paper & shim brass can be used to pack up the worm wheel shaft in order to get clearance.

I still have to come to that of machining the pump, as I don't have the pump base casting I will be fabricating the bearing supports from stock material.

What about the  CYLINDER SECTIONS MILLED IN TEFLON ?

George.

[rhavrane]

Re bonjour Georges,

I was told that some pistons had two or three thin grooves to make the sealing with water and oil, but the ones I own have single segments.
When my friend opened the cylinders (it was a second hand machine), we discovered that the pistons segments had rust, damaging the cylinders.
Because of this, to clean the cylinders, he increased their diameter (19,6 mm ==> 20+ mm) with his lathe and, in order to keep the pistons which were yet correct, he made teflon rings to the final diameter of the cylinders, thickness remaining equivalent to the original ones (+/- 2mm), made a little diagonal cut to transform them as segments. And the sealing is now perfect.

On my little steam machines, I find very often Viton segments.

[ooyah/2]

Hi Raphael.
I have never used Teflon on pistons but I always fit Silicone "O" rings to my pistons which is very effective as no doubt Teflon is.
I have fitted cast iron rings to a Stuart launch engine, 2- rings /piston. but never had steam through the engine, I feel that there is quite a bit of drag with the cast rings but maybe I have made them too tight.
Here is a pic of a D10 piston with Silicone "O" ring fitted.
 
George.

[steamboatmodel]

Hi George,
I will certainly be watching this one as I have a set of D10 castings that have been ageing in my shop for a while. Are you going to add the reverseing gear to this one?
Regards,
Gerald

[ooyah/2]

Hi George,
I will certainly be watching this one as I have a set of D10 castings that have been ageing in my shop for a while. Are you going to add the reversing gear to this one?
Regards,
Gerald

Yes Gerald,
I shall be making the Stevenson revers gear and also an engine driven pump of which I shall have to make the bearing supports from stock material.
I will not be installing drain cocks as I consider them a waist of time and money.
 
The other thing that I don't like about the D10 design is the round drag link bars on the revers gear , I make them from strip brass, I have considered in the past making the drag links from steel but having seen a few D10 with them made from steel they are inclined to rust.

Here are a couple of pics of a D10 that I built last year, this one is fitted with needle valve drain cocks, self made, but still a waist of time.
 
George.
 

[frazer heslop]

Hi George, Signed in for this one
You never know you may persuade me to make on of these funny steam engine thingy ma bobs
Best wishes
Frazer

[ooyah/2]

Hi George, Signed in for this one
You never know you may persuade me to make on of these funny steam engine thingy ma bobs
Best wishes
Frazer

Hi Frazer,
Thanks for looking in, this thread may inspire you to build a real engine , not those Black Magic hot air engines that you are famous for.

George.

[frazer heslop]

Oh you never know
Black Magic , thought that was summit you bought the wee squeeze to say sorry
Iv even sharpened the 3D CAD pencils   and a runner
All the best

[ooyah/2]

Next job was to machine the 2- standards


Again the flashing from the casting had to be roughly filed off before mounting in the 3- jaw chuck.
Once mounted roughly center the standard until its running reasonably true, turn the standard so that the feet are standing at 908 to the bed plate.
Bring the tool up until it touches the trunk guide, wind the carriage back and then turn the standard thro' 180* and then bring the carriage back and bring the tool up to touch the trunk guide, repeat this until both sides are equal.
 Pic No 4
Do the same with the standard feet until the tool touches both sides and then go back and double check the settings on the trunk guide and the feet.
 

Make a wooden plug that has a shoulder to be a push fit in the trunk guide cored hole, bring up the tale stock with a revolving head and pierce the wooden plug,lock everything up securely and then take very light cuts to the standard feet, .010 at a time in case the leg of the standard snaps.
 

Next step I turned the standard around and mounted it on the face plate, which can then be centered using the machine pointer and once running reasonably true start boring out the trunk guide, be careful with this as the tool bumps every time it passes over the open spaces in the trunk guide.
Light cuts are required as it can knock the standard out of line if too big a cut is taken, again about .010" cut.
Note that the last pic showing the boring tool that the standard is mounted on the large face plate, I forgot to take a pic when setting it up on the small one.

On this setting the Top flange can be machined to size and that completes the standard machining
 

Fellas ,
Please excuse the picture sequence  I have made quite a mess of them .

They should be .

Pic No 3--!st
Pic No 4--2nd
Pic No 5--3rd.
Pic No 1--4th
Pic No 2--5th
 

[Ramon]

Hi George - I shall follow this with a keen interest .

I have an old D10 for the Wide a Wake but it really needs a complete rebuild and a reversing gear. I was thinking of sleeving the bores with bronze and using PTFE packing - works very well on air but how that will stand up to steam I'm not so sure - any thoughts?

Also, do you find the standard Stuart Stephenson's reversing gear easy to operate using servo control? And could you give me an idea of the length of your sub plate including the water pump as this is something else I need to make too - I will have to scratch build it as I have no drawings of it.

Keep up the good work

Regards - Ramon

[kiwimodeller]

George, it is great to watch your progress but as a sideline I am interested in your comments about drain cocks being a waste of time. I have a single cylinder double acting engine built to the A H Rayman design which, once it is running, goes very well. The problem is getting it started. From cold in particular but also when it has been stopped for any more than a few minutes it gets what I have always thought was some sort of hydraulic lock caused by condensed steam. It takes lots of rocking back and forth until it eventually can be forced over centre and pumps the water out to get running. This is about the time that the paddlewheels try to take my fingers off. I also have to alternate with the steam valve open and closed. I have had a club member with lots of experience check things such as valve timing and he says the engine is built and timed as per the book of instructions. I had thought I would need to remove and strip the engine and have cocks fitted but if you have an alternative way of the solving the problem I would be most grateful to hear about it. Thanks in advance, Ian

[ooyah/2]

George, it is great to watch your progress but as a sideline I am interested in your comments about drain cocks being a waste of time. I have a single cylinder double acting engine built to the A H Rayman design which, once it is running, goes very well. The problem is getting it started. From cold in particular but also when it has been stopped for any more than a few minutes it gets what I have always thought was some sort of hydraulic lock caused by condensed steam. It takes lots of rocking back and forth until it eventually can be forced over centre and pumps the water out to get running. This is about the time that the paddlewheels try to take my fingers off. I also have to alternate with the steam valve open and closed. I have had a club member with lots of experience check things such as valve timing and he says the engine is built and timed as per the book of instructions. I had thought I would need to remove and strip the engine and have cocks fitted but if you have an alternative way of the solving the problem I would be most grateful to hear about it. Thanks in advance, Ian

Your engine was designed as a straight runner , as I have mentioned in your other post, and like all other single cylinder double acting engines if stopped will not start again without some method of kicking it over either T,D.C. or B.D.C.
So when it stops after a while you will get a hydraulic lock and you are very fortunate that you manage to get it started again out on the water.

I have had a 10V without drains fitted but have had a mechanical gear box driven by an electric motor to restart and reverse the engine using slip eccentric gear and never have had any hydraulic locks after it's started.
Same with D10's but you do have to turn the prop over by hand to clear the condensate to get the engines started and with the D10 there has never been any problems with condensate out on the water when running or the occasional stop. and drain cocks are more trouble than worth.

I don't see any improvement fitting Cock valves to your engine nor can you fit slip eccentric as it's an enclosed crank case.
The only drains that work are needle valve drains which are maintenance free where as the Cock type eventually leak and are difficult to seal.

George.

[ooyah/2]

Contiuing next is the cylinders.
Again it's important to file off the casting flashes.
Firstly try and get the valve face as flat as possible either by hand file or mill a flat face.
Set it up in the 4-jaw with packing on the 4- jaws.
Square up the valve face with a small square , do the same with the side, with the machine pointer true up the cored bore as true as you can get.
Measure the o/all length of the casting  and check with drawing size ,it can then be faced taking of half of the difference of the length on both side.
Bore thro' to final 3/4" bore with boring bar and then face of one end, when done take the cylindr off and mount it on a mandrel and face the other end to size.
The mandrel is a piece of 3/4" dia B.M.S. with a piece thin paper used to jam the cylinder on the mandrel to allow facing the other end which ensures that it's square to the bore.
 
Next job is the top and bottom covers.
 
 

Next job is to machine the top and bottom covers.
 

[Jerry C]

Merry Xmas George. What is a machine pointer?
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Merry Xmas George. What is a machine pointer?
Jerry.

Hi Jerry,
Merry Christmas to you.
 
Truthfully I don't know the excact name for it but it's an adjustable pointer mounted on a machined base which I use alot for centering and trueing on the 4- jaw.
I hope the pic tells a story'
 
George.

[Jerry C]

Got you George, an aid to the eye, like when trueing a wheel rim.
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Before starting to machine the top and bottom covers which come as a cast iron blank 1.375" dia, the finished dia of the covers is 1.375" so it's required to give then a polish when the other processes have been completed.
The blank is large enough to hold and machine the bottom of the cover to fit the standard and to bore thro" then drill and tap 5/15 x 26 for the packing gland all at the same setting
I made a large collet from a piece of round tube which I was able to machine a recess the same dia as the cover with a 3/32" landing, cut a 1/16" slot to grip the casting in the 3- jaw. the casting was then reversed and able to be machined to the 1/32"landing size to fit the bottom of the cylinder.
 
Next I will start on the bearings and themain shaft.
 
George.
 
This completed the base plates, standard, cylinder and covers.

[kiwimodeller]

Your engine was designed as a straight runner , as I have mentioned in your other post, and like all other single cylinder double acting engines if stopped will not start again without some method of kicking it over either T,D.C. or B.D.C.
So when it stops after a while you will get a hydraulic lock and you are very fortunate that you manage to get it started again out on the water.

I have had a 10V without drains fitted but have had a mechanical gear box driven by an electric motor to restart and reverse the engine using slip eccentric gear and never have had any hydraulic locks after it's started.
Same with D10's but you do have to turn the prop over by hand to clear the condensate to get the engines started and with the D10 there has never been any problems with condensate out on the water when running or the occasional stop. and drain cocks are more trouble than worth.

I don't see any improvement fitting Cock valves to your engine nor can you fit slip eccentric as it's an enclosed crank case.
The only drains that work are needle valve drains which are maintenance free where as the Cock type eventually leak and are difficult to seal.

George.

Thanks for the advice George. Just to make things clear the Rayman engine has never stopped on me when out on the water even when I throttle it right back, my only problem with lock is at the poolside when starting up for the first time or after stopping to top up the lubricator or change a gas cannister. It seems the needle valve drains are what I need, can you point me  to any information about how they are made and whereabouts on the engine they should be fitted? regards, Ian.

[malcolmbeak]

     Sorry for going off topic, but regarding Ian’s Rayman engine. On a slide valve engine, in order to get rid of condensate when starting from cold, the slide valve has to lift a little. It occurs to me that the problem could be caused if the valve on the Rayman engine cannot lift sufficiently, maybe the valve rod is not allowing any movement or the valve is very close to the valve chest cover (or possibly both). Just a thought.
 Malcolm