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[ooyah/2]

ENGINE DRIVEN FEED PUMP

I decided to make the pump to my own design, I don't like the Stuart pump as it relies on 2- stud fitting at the base of one of the standards and the ram has to be fitted with an "O" ring.
I don't know how one is suposed to fit the "O" ring as the ram is 1/4" dia and the "O" ring has an internal bore of 1/8", I have found it impossible to fit the ring without breaking it which would mean having to fit it broken or wrap around some graphite packing.
My own method is to counter bore the end of the pump body to take a 1/4" I/D Silicone  "O" ring and make a bearing to hold it in place, the bearing will have a small oil hole before the "O" ring to take a very occasional drop of oil and the bearing will be held in place by a small 8 b.a. brass round head screw.

I have never liked Stuarts method of connecting the eccentric arm to the pump ram, the drawing shows the 1/4" dia ram having a 1/8" slot milled to take the connecting pin, this only leaves 1/16" as side so I made a M/S/ yoke from a 5/16" square M/S/ bar drilled and tapped the end 5 b.a. and milled a 1/8" slot in it and threaded the end of the pump ram 5 b.a. x 3/16" long which I think is better.

I found it quite difficult to hold in position the pump body and bracket to S/Solder but managed it in the end.

I will be using 3/16" dia Nitrile balls in the valve box so that's the next step and once completed I will be filling the joints with a Chemical Metal filler, clean it all up and paint before fitting to the side of the base plate.

Almost there.

George.

[ooyah/2]

PUMP AND GEAR DRIVE COMPLETE

Well nearly complete, I made a mistake in boring the valve box, I should have drilled up to the hole from the pump ram on the suction side leaving a bridge to stop the ball from rising on the forward stroke of the ram so I had to modify the design of which I am not particularly pleased with so I will make another pump.

The pump  not to my liking has the parts shown, to save  the pump and get it to work I had to drill and tap 1/4 x 32 t.p.i. straight thro" the valve box and make the parts to hold the Nitrile balls in position.
The reason that I don't like it is that in my opinion it looks out of place being so high and there are too many parts in the assembly.
No 1
The suction valve is fitted to the bottom of the valve box to hold the Nitrile ball, the next fitting goes straight down to hold the ball at .025" clearance.
This fitting also takes the delivery ball in place and the top part screws down to hold the delivery ball at .025" clearance,

Pics
No 2-3-4-5.
Are just of the finished assembly , the 30T wheel is pinned with 2- 6 b.a. socket grub screws as is the thrust collar at the ram drive end to stop the shaft floating when the engine is reversed.

When I have made the new pump the engine will be stripped down and painted so I hope that when it all goes back together it's a smooth as it is now.

George..

The whole assembly of the engine and pump drive turn over very smoothly at 20 p.s.i. on air as it's still very new and will loosen of when put to work on steam.

[southsteyne2]

Hi George it's a real credit to you that the engine runs smoothly on 2o psi and no doubt will run superbly when its run in ,did notice a  gap in one of the rear eccentrics and wondering is this just loose or will it be shimmed?
Cheers
John

[southsteyne2]

My mistake George went back and looked at the other pics and see the sheaves are one piece casting and as I don't make them that way sorry jumped the gun so beautiful work George
Cheers
John

[Ramon]

Hi George - Congratulations on producing a very nice running engine and pump - and in such a short time too 


The pump may as you say be a little tall but overall the 'whole' looks very compact and neat - it won't be long now before I begin copying it  .


I haven't used nitrile balls before but have used O rings as seats - how do the balls stand up in use?


Be in  touch soon - sailing all day yesterday which left us totally wiped out last night - didn't even watch the box!


Lovely work George


Regards - Ramon

[ooyah/2]

My mistake George went back and looked at the other pics and see the sheaves are one piece casting and as I don't make them that way sorry jumped the gun so beautiful work George
Cheers
John

Hi John,
No problem, I do need somebody to keep me right as I can fly off on a tangent sometimes.
The reverse gear was a Stuart machined set that came with the e-bay castings and the sheave is only split in one side and what has happened is that the pinch bolt has come loose and the gap openned.
When I strip the engine down for painting and on final assembly I put a small dap of thread lock on all the nuts, the sheave bolts should have a thin lock nut on but it's an absolute devel to get in to tighten the niuts so the Loctite is used..

Thanks for your comments
George.

[ooyah/2]

Hi George - Congratulations on producing a very nice running engine and pump - and in such a short time too 


The pump may as you say be a little tall but overall the 'whole' looks very compact and neat - it won't be long now before I begin copying it  .


I haven't used nitrile balls before but have used O rings as seats - how do the balls stand up in use?


Be in  touch soon - sailing all day yesterday which left us totally wiped out last night - didn't even watch the box!


Lovely work George


Regards - Ramon

Ramon ,
I started using Nitrile balls on the recommendation of a Loco builder friend who uses them on pumps and Clack valves, you have to be careful with Clacks that the hole from the valve into the boiler is smaller than the ball, as the boiler cools and vacuum occurs it can suck the ball into the boiler never to return.
On pumps they work very well , if the pump has a negative head of water you have to push some water thro' with a syringe to wet the balls , a positive head is best but not always practical.

I have had Nitrile balls in a pump installed in a steam tug over the last 4 years with no problem, I have also made several pumps for friends and never had any complaint that the balls are not working but as to there longevity I can't say.
I do know of another member on the forum that uses an "O" ring below a steel ball and it works as well, one day I am going to experiment with an "O" ring under a steel ball in a safety valve to see how that works.

I have lost count of how many safety valves that I have made but can only remember one that didn't weap a little, all others needed a clip with a spanner to stop the weeping.

I have tried pop valves as well but just can't get them to work even with K.N.Harris's recommendation to give them a biff with a hammer to seat them remembering to replace the hit ball with a new one

My friend Frazer took a pack of ten ball bearings to a precision engineering firm that measured them and out of the ten only one was truely spherical, so maybe it's the balls.

New pump almost complete just a couple of screw down nuts to make and the I will post my new creation.

Thanks for you comments.

George.

[ooyah/2]

FINISHED ENGINE AND BOILER FEED PUMP.

As I said that I wasn't pleased with the pump that I had made as it appeared  too tall and had too many parts so I have made this othedr to a more simpler design.
All the pumps that I make are more or less derived from K.N.Harris's book on boiler building but I now use Nitrile hard rubber balls.
The Nitrile  unlike Steel balls require a coned landing as against the sharp edges of the steel ball.

I make the landings using a 3/16" cemtre drill by going down until I feel the tool touch the metal, start up the lathe and counter bore for for .025" and leave the lathe spinning to give the surface a slight polish.

I make all pump barrel and the valve box and after boring to suit 3/16" balls I tap about 6 threads with a first taper 1/4 x 32 tap on both ends of the valve box, this gives a good start after soldering as the intense heat can burn a full thread, after all of the silver soldering has been done go back in and tap a full thread in the metal.

No 1.
 The ram barrel and valve box ready to solder.

No 2
After soldering and ready to put in the pickle jar
While soldering on the mounting bracket take a piece of 1/4" dia bar and coat it wil the smoke from a candel or any other thing that gives heavy smoke when burning.
Put the 1/4" bar into the reamed ram hole and clamp on the bracket, if you don't do this the hole when hot enough to solder will turn oval whith the slightest of pressure.
Putting the bar inside while soldering prevents this and the smoked rod will come back out whout sticking.

No3.
 All the components of the pump ready to assemble.

No 4
 Pump assembled and bolted to the engine base plate.
Stuart recommends that their pump is mounted on the 2- holes at the base of the main casting, this I don't like as I have experienced the pump under working conditions to move and if not noticed can be a bit of a disaster, hence the longer bolts into the side of the base plate.

No5 & 6.
Pump bolted in position with a 1/4 x 32 Connection at the delivery end to take 5/32" dia copper pipe and a push on connector on the suction side to take the Silicone tube the the Aero guys use for fuel.
The only thing that I have not shown is the 10 b.a. round head screw in position to hold in the rear bearing of the pump, the tapped hole can just be seen in the side of the barrel, the hole abovr is a small counter sunk oil hole.

So there we have it , engine completed and I must say it's one of the best runners that I have made, I put this down to a mod that I made to my Chinees lathe, some time ago I bought a British made " Pratt-Burnered " chuck and I made the back plate that the regester of the chuck fits too a slack fit, about .005 " undersize.
This allows  me to adjust the chuck with a D.T.I. to run true on a dedicated jaw, in my case No 2 jaw, the chuck has a 3- bolt Hex head bolt fixing from the front and if ever I have a tool dig in I can very simoly re-adjust the chuck, simple but effective and worth the trouble.

Next job isn't one of my favourites, stripping down for painting  so I only hope that it goes together and runs as well so I shall post my last pics when painted.
I do hope that somebody will read this thread and have a go at at D10.

George.

[Jerry C]

Count me as number one George. Lovely job, am looking forward to building one. On your smoke device, visit a gun shop and buy an Acetylene sight blacking torch. Or you can make one easy enough. It's just a cylinder with screw on top with a small nozzle in the top. Add a small piece of calcium carbide, spit on it and light the gas as it comes out. It deposits pure carbon black on steel. We used to be able to get carbide from the chemist or bike shop. However if you have an oxy-acetylene torch use that with no oxygen.
Looking forward to seeing the engine painted and a vid of it running on steam.
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Count me as number one George. Lovely job, am looking forward to building one. On your smoke device, visit a gun shop and buy an Acetylene sight blacking torch. Or you can make one easy enough. It's just a cylinder with screw on top with a small nozzle in the top. Add a small piece of calcium carbide, spit on it and light the gas as it comes out. It deposits pure carbon black on steel. We used to be able to get carbide from the chemist or bike shop. However if you have an oxy-acetylene torch use that with no oxygen.
Looking forward to seeing the engine painted and a vid of it running on steam.
Jerry.

Jerry,
Your far too young to know about Carbide cycle lamps, myself at 76 years of age and have been a cyclist since I was 7 doesn't remember carbide lamps, I used to hear stories from my Dad that they used to "P" on the carbide to get the lamp lit.

There were 2- off them in my house  A "Lucas King of the road" that had a great big reflector and a bracket to hang on a fitting at the front forks and when the spring in the bracket went a sponge rubber ball was squeezed in to keep it pointing down the road, can't remember twhat the other one was.

I shall stick to the simple method of smoke from a candle, seams like an expensive method for possibly a one off proceedure, if I was making them comercialy  I woul;d consider it.

How is the progress on your 2- engines ? havn't heard from you for a while, hope that you are well and surviving this horrible weather.

George.

[Jerry C]

Ho ho George. We never used the lamps, only the carbide. Put a piece in a corona bottle with the top done up, throw in canal and after it exploded, net the dead fish. Or get a tin can with small hole in the base, upend can on fizzing carbide, light smoke and boom can rises 200 feet in the air and ears ring for hours.
       One engine finished and run in on lathe, other awaiting final assembly and running in. Compressor still u/s. Have been on 10 day shake down cruise on our narrowboat. A few more things to modify/fix. The leisure battery system not up to par but smart TV superb when Mary gets 3 or 4G on her iPhone. Next job is fit a 2.8kW generator and an alternator to battery charger and we're ready for anything.
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Ho ho George. We never used the lamps, only the carbide. Put a piece in a corona bottle with the top done up, throw in canal and after it exploded, net the dead fish. Or get a tin can with small hole in the base, upend can on fizzing carbide, light smoke and boom can rises 200 feet in the air and ears ring for hours.
 

Jerry,
You must have a bit of a hooly in your younger days, if you did these things today you would have the "POLIS" and the Bomb squad at your door with the Big "Red Key" to gain entry.
Must it would have been great fun as long as you didn't get caught, were you a good runner ?
We don't have a lot of canals up here although the Forth and Clyde runs thro' the town but I sure wouldn't like to eat any fish that came out of it.

George.

[Ramon]

George - Jerry.
Your mention of carbide strikes a chord.
I remember having to (nervously) crawl inside a boiler in the Lowestoft Docks Tug 'Ness Point' as a young fifteen year old armed with a yard made acetylene lamp for illumination. My task was to hold the (leaky) mud hole door back up which had had a lead strip held to it with grease. The door was bolted up with me inside the boiler to squeeze the lead to see where the erosion was for building up by weld. Once inside though I could see light coming in from above and crawled around the tubes to exit from the dome flange. I crept back down and stood behind Jack who I was apprentice too as he undid the door and gently brought it through. 'Okay' he yelled into the hole 'you can come out now' - no answer - another yell still no answer then I tapped him on the shoulder 


The 'Corona' bottle brought back memories too for we used to do just that in the river though we were never lucky to get any dead fish. Just how dangerous that was as a prank though was brought home many years later when I met a guy through model boating who had permanently damaged an eye by a glass shard from an an exploding Corona bottle. Regrettably much later in life he began to lose the sight of his good eye. Asked about his other eye he commented that he had lost the sight of it as a young lad. Imagine his relief when it was discovered the scar tissue could be removed and behind was a perfectly good eye! Sadly Peter is no longer with us but he was a great guy, absolutely full of humour and a great model boat maker to boot - I so wish he was still around.


Thanks for the input on the Nitrile balls George - I'll look into trying some. Good point on not having a square seat.


Regards - Ramon

[ooyah/2]

ENGINE REBUILT AND PAINTED.

The strip down and rebuild went without any trouble, the steam and exhaust pipes were part of the original kit and were made by Stuart Turner.
After painting with 3- coats of hard enamel I made the cylinder lagging strips from .015" Ali sheet held on with 8 ba round head screws, I have some .015" brass sheet but I just don't like brass for lagging, I think that's because I have never seen any full size engines with brass lagging, only Ali, Black or timber..

I can't say much more as all went well and I think that the engine runs even better now, down to 15 p.s.i on air.
As It's not been run on steam I will have to make a displacement lubricator to fit on the steam line.

Lastly I had a piece of American Walnut that a joiner friend gave me to mount the engine on, it will be held down by Long round head self tappers.

I will post some pics of the lubricator when I make it.

George.

[geoff p]

Beautiful, George, just beautiful.

Geoff,
Thailand

[Jerry C]

Gorgeous George, nice job on the plinth too. Jealous!
Jerry.

[Mark T]

Just fantastic that is such a nice job - now all you need to do is build a boat big enough to fit it in 

[Ramon]

A very nice outcome indeed George - a good looking 'package' all round. You should be well pleased with that result  .


Ramon

[rhavrane]

Bonjour George,


Will it propel a boat or... a shelf ? Such a powerful steam machine, based on my experience, should live (to my opinion of course) and the coupled water pump allows a smaller boiler with a strong burner for a good autonomy 

[ooyah/2]

A very nice outcome indeed George - a good looking 'package' all round. You should be well pleased with that result  .


Ramon

Hi Ramon,
Yes I am very pleased with the engines running performance, this is the 4- D10 that I have built and I mentioned earlier the Mod that I made to the chuck on my Lathe which has allowed me to have a more accurately built engine.
Thanks for you comments.

George.

[ooyah/2]

Mark T
Raphael.

I don't intend to fit this engine into a boat as I already have a S.T.CERVIA  at 42" long with a D10  engine that I built 2- years ago to replace a 10V, the Scotch marine boiler is 4.75" dia  and as you can see from the pics it's a bit of a squeeze to get the engine and boiler into the hull.
This Tug is 40 years old and originaly started electricaly powered with a bus wiper motor, it lay up in the loft for many years until I retired and then I converted it to steam building the 10V and the boiler.
The problem with the 10V was the inability to get a 100% working reverse gear and after many trys with slip eccentric and other Heath Robinson devices to reverse it I made the D10 and now there are no broblems.

I am not very good at building boats but must confess that I did build a Clyde Puffer with a Cheddar  Pintail steam plant, this bost was 33" long  modelled on SKYLIGHT,no longer in my posetion.
I don't have such a great space of a workshop and I don't like sawdust  on my machinery.

This engine that I have built will probably end up on E-Bay so sombody hopefuly will buy it and put it in a boat.

Thanks to both of you for your input.

George.

[ooyah/2]

Forgot to post the pics of the boat.

Just the lubricator to make now and it's job done.

George.

[rhavrane]

Bonjour George,
Thank you again for your great job, hopefully people like you build then share, and for the pictures of your Cervia which is as small as my Jan (1,20m, 21 kg).

Just between you and I, without any commitment and in the respect of the rules of this forum, could you give me a price for this D10 with its pump ?

[ooyah/2]

Bonjour George,
Thank you again for your great job, hopefully people like you build then share, and for the pictures of your Cervia which is as small as my Jan (1,20m, 21 kg).

Just between you and I, without any commitment and in the respect of the rules of this forum, could you give me a price for this D10 with its pump ?

Raphael, I have sent you a P.M.

George.

[ooyah/2]

D10  COMPLETED.

Job done,

No 1
Lubricator is made from a piece of 5/8" dia brass.
The endis drilled and Tapped 3/16" x 40 x 5/16" deep and then drilled thro" 5/64" dia for 1/2".

No2.

The body is turned around in the chuck and drilled down 3/8" to 1/4" from the bottom breading thro" the 5/64" drain hole.
Body is tapped 7/16" x 26 t.p.i for 1/4' to take the top cap.

Using the boring tool shown in No 3 the inside is bored out to 1/2" dia  but leaving the thread for the top cap untouched.

No 3,
Boring tool.

No 4

The lubricator cap is a simple turning job and when fiinished a fibre washer is fitted as a seal.

No 5.

The Needle control valve is made from a pice of 1/4" dia brass bar, the top slide set at 20 deg and the point is machined.
Turn down the full length to 5/32" dia and threaded 5/32 x 40 t.p.i.
Reduce the tip of the valve to 1/8" dia to give oil clearance into the Lubricator.
The end of the valve which is left at 1/4" dia has a 3.32" dia hole drilled and a piece of brass rod glued in.

The body to take the Needle valve unfortunately I didn't take any pics but it's made from a piece of 1/4" dia brass bar x 1.25" long,
Drill and bore straight thro" 5/64" dia.
Counter bore and tap 5/32" x 40 t.p.i. 9/16" deep and finish to 5/8" deep with "D" bit ,this give a sharp edge for the needle valve to bed.
While in this setting in the 3.jaw thread the end 1/4 x 32 t.p.i. x 3/16" long.

Take the job out and turn it around and thread the other end 1/4 x 32 t.p.i. x 1/2" long.

Before S/Soldering the valve box into the lubricator body machine down the part that will be inside the lubricator to 3/16" dia, this allows good access for the oil.

No 6.

Condensate driain  valve which again is a simple turning job and I use a single knurled wheel tool to give grip when closing and openning valve.
The end of the drain is 3/16 x 40 t.p.i and the point is cut with the top slide at 30 deg.

No 7.

A drain hole is required in the clear machined part of the valve at 90 deg and then a 5/64" dia hole is drilled thro" to break into the  90 deg hole.

No 8.

All of the lubricator components before soldering in the 1/4" dia valve box.

No9
Completed Displacement Lubricator


No 10 .

Job done and lubricator fitted to the engine.

Last job will be to run the engine on steam, I shall see if my next door neighbours son can take a video of the steam test and post it on the forum ,if not y-tube.

Thanks everybody for looking in and your comments, I do hope that it's been of interest and will tempt somebody to have a go at maching a D10.

George.