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[kpnuts]

Hi all I've made a start.

[kpnuts]

Hi all hull halves together




as you can see will need a fair amount of sealant to waterproof it, even though I used a vise the gaps are still quite large. just waiting for the brass rod and tube for the prop shaft to come then I will seal it all.

[Plastic - RIP]

I used very thin plasticard cut to about 10mm wide as a bandage along the join to reinforce the joint and it will pull liquid poly glue in by capilliary action to make a perfectly waterproof seal for the full length of the hull.
 
The 'tube' glue dries with air bubbles and voids so it always leaks.

[chas]

I did the same with a plasticard 'bandage' and also ran a generous amount of epoxy on the inside of the bow seam. I have never regreted that when I hit the bank.
 You might like to sand /trim the bow to a finer point, my moulding had a square section there.
Chas

[Stavros]

one of the best ways to fill the gap up is to decant some of your liquid cement into a small pot and put some slivers of plastic card into it and leave to dissolve.... overnight will do.......use this to seal the cracks up in the hull....then use some epoxy on top of it then seal up with some sealant
 
 
Dave

[Marc St Hilaire 60]

Good work. This is the one I am building, although my kit is very old, it isn't the original Matchbox Bluebell and no fancy etched brass stuff.

My hull when assembled had a moderate twist about the fore and aft axis. Hope yours is ok.

Keep up the good work kp.

[kpnuts]

Installed the prop shaft on the corvette

[ballastanksian]

I am very tempted to do a Flower class but must be disciplined and finish my first two projects!

[Stavros]

May I ask you what you have used to seal the hull halves
 
Dave

[kpnuts]

Hi Dave its squadron white putty, I have just used it to fill the holes and stabilize the propshaft. I will seal it with bathroom sealant.

[morley bill 1]

best thing I find for sealing and strength is milliput green cheap and very effective ....bill....

[kpnuts]

Hi all got the radio gear in the Corvette today.

[kpnuts]

Hi all done a bit to the corvette. the strengthening tie bars are a joke they bend all over the place had to add some plasticard to them to stiffen them also number 9 rib is about 1.5 mill too long when in place and you add the top deck it creates a gap all down the side so had to had a bit off that, fits ok now.

[Plastic - RIP]

Looking good so far - is there any reason why you are using a mechanical speed controller? An electronic one with BEC will allow you to junk out the receiver batteries.

Also, a suggestion - I'd block up the anchor holes with some plasticard before the deck gets glued on to avoid a trip to the bottom of the lake! 

[kpnuts]

I've just always used the mechanical ones don't know anything about the other type. Thanks for the heads up about the anchor holes.

[ballastanksian]

Do you make the Bobs board yourself or buy them ready made?

Ironically they are probably more realistic for ships with telegraph systems with a lower number of 'speeds', but I don't know if they are economic on power useage? I think this would be a topic for the technical/electrical rooms.

[kpnuts]

Bought them ready made.

[hmsantrim]

Hi ballastanksian.
thats not a "Bobs board"  that looks a car type mechanical speed controller which tamiya, kyosho and MFA  were the last I was aware of that still supplied them when the ESC came along.   The "Bobs board" was an aluminium wafer variable speed wiperboard that you mounted on top of a servo.  The copper strip wipers were screwed on to the servo arms (always an extremly fiddly SOB job ) then the fun part was being able to put the correct bend on the wiper arms so they just had the correct tension when they moved accross the surface of the board. 
 The boards were rated at 2,3,5,8 amp. and just like the ECS pick  the wrong one and its fried. 
Some radio maunfactures later changed the shape of the top of the servo  so to be able to mount the board you haf to fit something underneath I used a piece of 1/16 ply then enlarged the hole pic no 3  then it all has to line up underneath.
 
 when you look at what you had to work with B4 half of this lot do`nt know how easy its been made for them..
 
 Frank
 

 

 

[ballastanksian]

Interesting. I wondered where the name came from. Thankyou for the tutorial frank.

[hmsantrim]

Interesting. I wondered where the name came from. Thankyou for the tutorial frank.

Just call me Dobby, as I live to serve the house of Mayhem....
 
frank
 

[ballastanksian]

Well I hope you dress better Frank!

[Marc St Hilaire 60]

Some of my models still have Bobs Boards in them now. Compared to modern ESC's there are pretty awful but in their day they were the biz. Set up properly they run ok but I always had the feeling they were a heavy drain on the battery. I'll get arround to replacing them with Vipers when I retire! 

[RAAArtyGunner]

If you can afford it do it now.
You will find when you retire your dexterity, eyesight, stamina and a host of other things reduce your ability to do what was possible in your younger years.
Hence the saying don't put off what you can do today as tomorrow may never come

[Marc St Hilaire 60]

Haha! Thanks Gunner. That's more jobs on my 'to do' list. 

[kpnuts]

Hi all I've had an idea to get this back on the bench, it's a bit out there but those who know me know I can be a bit weird. Anyway I was thinking of doing it as a 1960s bat boat, now first problem it's a 30 crew ship, I can reduce some of that since I have the Airfix jet engine, so I can do away with the crew for stoking the furnace, I figure that's probably 4 less laser cannon instead of the standard armament (I could add several and have them controlled by computor) so I figure 2 or 3 fewer crew there, still a long way from 2 crew or if I include the Butler 3, any suggestions how I can realistically reduce it down to 3, or excuses for why batman would risk his identity and have more crew.