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[ooyah/2]

Some months ago I purchased a part set of SCORE  castings, most of the cast iron parts were there but none of the Gunmetal Con Rods, Cross heads or eccentric straps.
The good part about the purchase was that the Cross Head slides were machined to a very good standard and only needed to be lapped in.

As the SCORE is basically a D!0 but Horizontal the machining of the  cast iron castings have already been described on my D10  build  so I shall pass on the machining of them and consentrate on puting the engine together and fabricating the Con Rods and Eccentric straps from stock material without having to purchase any bits from Stuart, well that's the plan !!!!!

No 1,

The box bed had to be clampped down on the milling table and a cut across the face to take the engine main frame, it was then turned over and the base scimmed.

No 2

Thye Gunmetal bearings are as per the D10 and are shown marked off ready to be drilled and tapped for 7 b.a. bolts.

No 3 & 4

Bearings boltted down with a temperary shaft in place after reaming the bearigs, the Cross head trunk guide as can be seen are already bored out to a good srtandard and only needed a light lap.

Next job is the Crank shaft.

George.

[ooyah/2]

Continuing with the SCORE build here ar some pics of the progress so far

The flanges on the main casting already being done when I bought the castings they still had to have the  holes drilled to take the bottom covers.
Like the D10 flanges the hole pitch on the drawing is 1.125" p.c.d. and on the D10 I ran out of metal so this time I made the p.c.d. 1.063" p.c.d. and this worked out well. The holes were done on a rotary table with the bottom cylinder covers done first and then the holes marked thro' on to the main casting flanges.

The cylinders were  mounted on a mandril and drilled out on the rotary table and all went well. I must say that whoever designed the engine didn't take into account getting the nuts onto the studs on the underside of the cylinders, I eventually fitted them but they all have to come back off to drill the steam and exhaust ports.

The main shaft was made and the bearings bored out and the central bearing is split in order to get the bearing onto the shaft.

Here are the pics so far, next step is to drill out the stean and exhaust passages in the cylinders and make the top covers to fit.

George.

[ooyah/2]

Having completed the main shaft and bottom covers with the cylinders fitted I started on the Con Rods.

I had hoped to use 2- gun metal casting of con rods but found that they were for a D10 which has centers of 1-11/16"  and the Score centers are 2" so I decided rather than buying 2- castings from Stuart that I would machine them from M/Steel.

I made 1- which was pretty rough but it was an excercise to get the dimensions correct.

No 1 is of the 2- castings.

No 2  the 2- castings and the temperary Con rod that I made.

4 & 5 is the con rod fitted to the engine casting.

No 6  I made the conrods from a piece of 3/4" dia  EN1A Mild steel starting by counter sinking both ends of the bar and setting it up in the 3- jaw, as the eye of the rod is .560"  across the the diagonal corners I machined the bar to .580" dia and would eventualy square the eye off to take the cross head pin leaving 3/32" of the bar end at 3/4" dia.

No 7 Set the top slide to 1 deg and machined the taper of the Con rod to the same length as the sample one which was 1/4" at the thick end reducing to .210" at the narrow end.
The Rod was left at 3/4" dia to take the bearing block at a later stage.

N0 8 Is the machined rod ready to square off the eye and make and fit the bearing all as the sample one at it's side.

Machining EN1A  mild steel is a very pleasant process and with a good sharp honed round tip tool pruduces a very fine finish so the next step is the bearings and then the cross head it's self which is another 2 - items  to make from my stock box.

George.

[ooyah/2]

Continuing with the Con Rods,

No1 .
 The base of the machined 3/4" dia bar to take the bearings has a 3/16" dia x .032" spigot to locate in the bearing top half. the bearing is made from 2- pieces of 3/8" thk hard brass  but has to be reduced to 5/16" on 1- face to give an O/All 5/8",  each half has 2- 7ba clearance holes to bolt them together.

No 2.
The holes can be marked off using the top half with the 3/16" dia location spiggot and the 3/4" dia can have the flats machined at a later date.

No 3.&4
The bearing can be machined to 3/4" dia using the main M/S body and when taken down to the diameter it can be squared from the Lathe Cross slide, at this point the tool which is set at D/center can be used to scribe a line across the bearing face for machining the bore.

No5
The main body of the steel Con Rod has to be changed from round to, rectangular, only 1- side is required to be milled flat at this time , this is the large side to take the Con Rod eye.

No 6.
The Con Rod is mounted in the 4- jaw and the Center for the bore found, before boring clock the Face on 2- axis with a D.T.I. and then bore and ream the hole 9/32" dia .

No 7
After reaming the bore hole wrap some paper round a piece of 9/32" dia rod and bolt the Con rod assembly to it, it can then be machined to size including taking the original 3/4" round to 5/16", turn around and the other side done likewise.

N8.
The steel Con Rod is now set up in the mill and the other side is milled to size, then the 1/4" slot  is milled out with a1/4"  4- flute end mill to suit the Cross head. and to form the Eye.
Once this is completed turn it over and drill thro" for the cross head pin.
Drill thro"  to take a 5b.a. Cross head pin on 1- leg of the eye and them drill the other 1- and ream 5/32" all on the same setting.

No 9.
Both Con rods are now completed  and ready to be fitted.

No 10
Both Con Rods fitted and the whole assembly turns over smoothly and very slightly tight which will go away when the engine is run in..

Next job is the Cross heads, which is a simple turning job.

George.

[Corposant]

George

This build is proving to be as much a joy to behold as your previous - of the D10! 

Many thanks for your profusion of excellent pictures.

Mike

[ooyah/2]

Hi Mike,
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the built of the SCORE engine. I was fortunate to buy the castings on ebay with quite a lot of machining already done but there are quite a few bits that will need to be made from the stock box.
The next biggest job is to bore all off the inlet and exhaust ports in the cylinders which I have already posted on the D10 build, which if this weather holds it may be a little while before I get around to completing the engine.
The least little bit of sun and the Garden beckons.

How have you progressed with your Clyde Puffer?

George.

[Corposant]

George

I'm sure your machining is infinitely superior to any achieved by any Ebay seller! 

My puffer is progressing slowly (as ever!). I have been waiting for some warm weather to do some spraying - and today is perfect! However, as you point out, there's a lot needs doing in the garden. 

Mike

[ooyah/2]

While awaiting some Cast Gunmetal for the slide valves I pushed on with the Crossheads which is a simple turning job, once fitted and sliding freely I drilled out all of the steam and exhaust passages in the cylinders, marked off the holes for the Steam chest  and before fitting made the gland nuts for the bottom of the steam chests where the valve rod goes thro'

All the assembly so far turns over freely, not too freely , as it will have to be run in

Pics ! & 2 show the assembly so far.

George.

[ooyah/2]

Making the eccentrics which are 3/4" dia I Cut off about 2.5  from a bar of  3/4" dia EN1A Mild steel and intended to make the  2 eccentrics  from the 1- piece of bar.

As the Eccentrics have a 3/32" throw my usual method is to put a piece of 3/32" steel packer under one paw of the 3- jaw chuck but as Malcolm B. in my D10 build said that this was not the correct method to get the throw so I marked off the bar end and centered the 3/32" offset in the 4- jaw to see if there was a difference to my method, which I shall report when I have the Eccentric and strap assembly mounted up.

Before starting it's important to think ahead in order to have as much maching done on the one setting before going from the 4- jaw to the 3- jaw chuck.

No 1.

Having centered the bar the boss was turned to 1/2" dia x 7/32" long, bored thro' and reamed 9/32" dia.

No 2.

I have a rear mounted parting off tool holder that has 2- blades, one at .090' thk and the other .045" thk and with the broader one I cut down to 5/8" dia and the intention was to make both of the Eccentrics on the one setting and finaly parting them off when completed.

No3.

At this stage the job was then taken from the 4- jaw and mounted in the 3- jaw to machine the grooves for the strap fixing bolts.

No 4.

The grooves being machined with the thin parting tool.

No 5

The first boss was drilled and tapped to take a 6 ba. grub screw and the assembly was locked to a piece of 9/32" dia rod, the grub screwed boss nearest to the 3- jaw face and the other end of the rod held in a revolving center.
With the broad parting tool I plungged down to go thro' the 9/32" rod leaving 1/4" dia which gives a clean cut to the Eccentric boss, do the same at the middle and you then have 2- Eccentrics ready to take from the rod.

Do it this way as if tried to do when in the 4-jaw the tool will snatch and possibly break as the offset hole revolves and the tool breaks into the bore..

No 6

2- finnshed Eccentrics

No 7.

Machining the cast Fltwheel, grip the central boss in the 3- jaw and drill thro' and ream 9/32" dia.
Back to the 9/32" dia rod and after drilling and tapping the boss for a 5 b.a. socket grub lock the Flywheel to the rod and mount it in the chuck with the other end in the revolving center, machine the face and 1- side, turn it around and machine the other face.

No 8.

Eccentrics and Flywheel fitted to the engine.


Next step is to make the Eccentric sheaves, I have 2- off but they are for a D10 engine and are 3/16" shorter, I am not sure yet as to whether just lengthen the valve rod, or to make them like the Con rods and made of steel in the shape of full size, I shall have athink on it.

George.

 

[ooyah/2]

MAKING THE ECCENTRIC SHEAVES

I had considered making the sheaves using the bottom part of the D10 sheave casting and making a connecting rod to the valve rod in steel, however I found in my spares box a pair of sand cast sheaves from a previous build of a Stuart launch engine which were long enough and would do the job.

No 1 &2 

The sand casting was mounted in the 4- jaw and using a steel square sitting on the top slide  it was squared of on 2- axis by tapping them with a small hammer to bring them up to the sqaures face.
This doesn't need to be super accurate as the sand castings are very rough so this method is adiquate.

No3.

Centering the bore to run as true as possible, a clock gauge can't be used here as tthe castings are very rough

No 4

Using a small boring tool the casting is bored out to .75" to suit the previuosly made Eccentrics.

No 5 

After boring using the same setting the casting was faced off with a .020" cut.
The sheave was removed and turned around and by the same method of squaring in the 4-jaw it was machined to the correct thickness.

No6

2- holes 7 b.a. clearance are required in the sheave befor cutting a slot in 1- side to take up any future ware.

No 7.

The finished sheaves and the Eccentrics fitted, the only thing to finish is the eye drilled to take a fixing bolt thro' the yoke in the valve rod which will be done when the yokes are made.

No 8.

Is the sheaves and the Eccentrics fitted to the main shft.

Next to do is the yokes and the pistons.

George.

[boneash]

Brilliant again George, you must have a surprising spares box!!

[ooyah/2]

Brilliant again George, you must have a surprising spares box!!

Boneash,
I did have a surprising spares box but it is now seriously depleted.
Over the years of building and buying Stuart engine castings on e-bay I did accumulate quite a few spares, brought on by modifying parts that I never liked and making them more to full size practise.
At present I may just have about enough parts to build a 10V and 3- sets of Stuart steam driven boiler feed pump castings but they will all be for next winter as gardening is now about to take over and my other passion of cycling when the weather heats up.
Have been a cyclist since I was 7 years old and now at 76 enjoy getting out around the lanes where I live, can still manage 30-40 mile runs with a Cafe break in between at half way.

Thanks for looking in.

George.

[Jerry C]

Hi George, what is the purpose of the bolt through the side of the sheave that isn't cut?
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Hi George, what is the purpose of the bolt through the side of the sheave that isn't cut?
Jerry.

Hi Jerry,
I have often wondered on the very same question, all of the Stuart engines of the No 10 size are like that and you would have to go back in time to the original designer to find out why.
I have come to the conclusion that it is purely cosmetic and acts as a balance, I don't think it would look right with just the 1- bolt.

I must at some time treat myself to a slitting saw as the slot cut with a Junior blade has wondered a little.

George.

[frazer heslop]

Thought Id poke my nose in to see what youre up to.
She is coming on well 
I recently had to buy some slitting saws and yes it broke my heart having to part with my pennies. I found some at one of those cheap shops (Boys) round here.They come in a pack of three the arbour is rubbish but saying that the little saws work well and making a decent arbour was no hardship.
You know this steamy stuff will never catch on
cheers

[Jerry C]

I can't cut a straight cut with a hacksaw to save my life! The slitting saw and arbor for the Taig is difficult to use due to the limited throw of the cross slide and the milling attachment. If you can do a cut it does a lovely job.
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

MACHINING PISTONS & VALVES.

No 1.
The pistons were machined from a piece of 1" dia  down to 3/4" dia.
I would have prefered to use a piece of 13/16" dia brass bar as there would be less waist but needs much and the 1" bar was all that I had.
After turning down to .75" + .015" both off the pistons were turned on the one bar and then drilled and tapped 5 b.a. straight thro' both pistons.
With a rear mounted parting tool the "O" ring grooves were cut to size and then parted off.
No2
Pistons were mounted on the 5/32" dia rods screwed 5 b.a. , the rods being made to size, the pistons can then be screwed to the rods, mounted in the 3- jaw and can be skimmed to suit the cylinder bores.
No 3.

Pistons now fitted and screwed down with the tool in the fore ground. I would recommend not just on the Score engine but any engine that will need the pistons to be removed to get to other parts.
The tool is a very simple one but worth it's weight in gold, for instance ,if I had the cylinders all bolted up to the main castin to get the pistons out everything would need to be dismantled, with this tool it's a simple job just to unscrew them.

No 4.
The valves require a recess on the bottom , I used a piece of Cast Gun metal and milled a .030 deep square 9/32" x 9/32" in the bottoms.

No 5&6
Turned it over and milled an 1/8" wide slot to take the buckle and then at 90deg milled anothe 1/8" wide slot to take the valve rod.

No 7.
2- completed valves.

No 8.
Valve fitted to rod in the steam chest and a 2M x 3mm  socket grub to hold the valve in place. It's so much easier using the grub screw to make the final running adjustments
with no need to unscrew the rod as the drawing shows.
This method I was shown by one of my Loco builder friends who told me that it was standard practise to make the buckle like this.

I will continue with the build, next job will be the top cylinder covers and then all the packing cland fittings before tackeling the inlet and exhaust pipes.

George.

[ooyah/2]

PIPE FLANGES AND OIL CUPS.

Over the weekend I started on the pipe flanges, the steam pipe is 3/16" dia and the exhaust is 1/4" dia
No 1
I mounted a bar of 1' dia brass and counter bored one end as a support with a revolving centre, my intention was to part the discs off of the bar after making a 1/4" dia x 1/16" spiggot to locate in the other disc.
Setting the parting tool to cut down to 3/8" dia x 3/16" long,  leaving the disc at 1/8" thk. The 3/8" dia turned piece is left longer than required as it gives something to grip when turned around in the chuck.

No 2.
The disc is then bored thro' 7/64" and counter bored 3/16" x 1/4" deep and finished with a 3/16" "D" bit and the 3/8" boss is reduced to 1/8" long. this is where the steam pipe will be S/soldered in.
The 2- discs were then mounted in the rotary chuck and the fixing holes at 5/8" centres were drilled, the bottom half was tapped 7 b.a. and the top half was drilled 7 b.a. clearance.

No 3.
After much filing and shaping the first steam flange was made, only another 3- to make. It's quite amazing how much material can be taken of with a good file, I keep files for brass and files for steel and never use the brass files on steel.
Similar to hacksaw blades, I have 2- hacksaws 1- with blades only for brass and the other for steel, if the saw for steel ids used to cut brass the saw will wonder as the edges are worn as soon as you cut steel and I use only Sandvik saw blades.

No 4.
Showing 1- finished flange and the other at the disc stage ready to be filed to shape.

No 5.
Just had time to make 3- oilers for the main shaft bearings.

Chuck up a piece of 1/4" A/F hex brass and machine with a round nosed tool to 1/4" long, centre drill and drill down 5/16" with a 3/16" dia drill, cut off enough material to make a srewed thread on one end 5/32 x 40 t.p.i. and turn it around and machine down to thread the end 5/32" x 40 t.p.i. x 5/32" long and at the same setting drill thro' a .030" oil hole.
Repeat for the other 2- off.

I hope within the next few days to solder up the steam pipe for a first trial run on air.

George.

[ooyah/2]

EXHAUST FLANGES.

Continuing with the flanges, Having completed the steam line which is shown on pic

No1&2.

This was fitted after silver soldering and a bit of a polish

No3.
The 1" dia bar was set up in the 3- jaw and the end counter bored to take the revolving centre.
With the parting tool I could then machine down to make the 1/4 x 32 " t.p.i. connection and the doing the same for the next flange but not parting off at this point as a support is needed.

No4
Having machined down with the parting tool doing the same to form the dia to thread 1/4 x 32 t.p.i.  and the small location bosses I used the Junior hack saw to cut off the first blank and then the second.

Don't forget to have a protective board on the lathe bed as when sawing off you can fall thro' and mark the lathe bed, especialy if using a bogger saw..
Both discs can now be finished to size in the 3- jaw. and bored thro'.

No 5.
The completed blanks. still to be shaped to the flange size.

No 6.
 Blanks screwed into the exhaust outlets now ready to be shaped.

George.

[ooyah/2]

COMPLETING 1/4' dia  EXHAUST PIPE.

After cutting of the blanks from the 1" dia brass bar the flanges were shaped using hand file to shape them and with the 1/4 x 32" t.p.i. they are screwed into the exhaust ports.

No 1 .
The flanges had to be made for S/Soldering to the 1/4" dia pipe, theses were made from scrap piece of 1/4" thk brass plate ,turned to thickness in the 4- jaw with a 1/4" hole drilled to take the pipe on 1- side and a spiggot to fit into the flange in the exhaust port and finaly hand shaped with a hand file and drilled for 7 b.a. bolts.

No2.
To form the TEE pice to take the 1/4" pipe on 1- side and a 5/16" x 26 t.p.i for the other side connection apiece of 3/8" square brss bar was cut , drilled  for the pipe and the screwed connection on the other and a 1/4" dia hole was drilled on 1- flat side.

No3.
The components to make the TEE piece connection

No 4.
The TEE piece ready to S/Solder.

No5.
TEE piece S/Soldered ready to solder in ther 1/4" dia exhaust pipe.

No 6.
!/4" dia exhaust pipe S/soldered into TEE piece.

No 7.
Exhaust pipe cleaned up, polished and fitted to the engine.

That completes the Steam inlet and Exhaust pipes.

I can now complete the Cylinder covers and the packing glands for the Piston rods and with a bit of luck it will start on air before stripping down and painting, before trying it out on steam.

George.

[Mark T]

George that really is quality craftsmanship - keep the updates coming 

[boneash]

George,
You must be working full time on this engine, especially with the amount of hand crafting you are doing.
But of course ellipses are are pain for a lathe or milling machine.
I so wish I still had access to a water jet cutter!
Lovely work.

Rod

[ooyah/2]

Mark,
Thanks for the kind comments and as I am nearly there I will keep posting as I go along.

Rod,
I actually don't spend such a great time machining but as the weather up here has been terrible there has not  been any time to get out into the garden so the machining can get a big hit.
The ellipses on the flanges are all done by hacksawing off the big bits and hand filing the rest after turning the blanks on the lathe.
I don't have any machining experience as I served my time as a Millwright in a large flour and cattle feed mill in Glasgow and it was all about maintenance and installing new and heavy machinery and when my time was out I went straight into a design office as a draughtsman and never ever went back to the tools.
One thing that I was taught as a lad was how to cut straight lines with a hacksaw and how to use a file.
I now keep 2- hacksaws, 1- for steel and 1- for brass, likewise my files are 1- set for brass and 1- set for steel
It's quite amazing how much metal can be removed with a good file.
So now that I have a milling machine it's quite a luxuary but still inclined to finish off with the file.

Thanks both of you for yor comments.

George.

[Mark T]

Funny you should say that George;  when I started my apprenticeship I did about 6 weeks of nothing but filing     I complained (as you do at 15 years old) and was told that when I had become proficient at filing they may let me loose on other tools and machines.  At the time I felt so hard done by but in hindsight they were simply teaching me how to do things the right way.  The truth is - If you can file straight, accurately and flat - well the rest is pretty easy with a bit of common sense.

[ooyah/2]

Hi Mark,
It's so true and if you didn't do it correct you received a "CUFF ON THE LUG" until you did get it correct.

Them were the days !!!!!!

George.