The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions > Submarines
Engel Gato SS212
sub john:
HI All
I thought i would start this topic by giving some of the electronic spec that the submarine had to meet, the main ballast tank controllers had to be solid state using power mosfet transistors for the forward and reverse plus it had to have dynamic breaking they also had to work the same as the electronics in a standard servo but much bigger. These unit are linked to a lot of electronics which will keep the submarine perfectly horizontal, a couple of days ago i put the sub in a 9FT paddling pool as i could not wait to see if it would all come together and work i must confess i did have a few doubt's myself the sub was tried with out the deck on but i had to put some lead in to get the trim roughly right, started to dive the sub and i was very surprised to see just how well it all worked you could set the sub to be just 5inc down below the surface and it would just hover perfectly still in the water. If you looking at the gears on the ballast tank through the pressure plate top you could see the just the gears hunting to keep the sub level just moving a few grams of water about to keep the sub level and to keep it at a given depth.
The sub all so had to have circuit to vent off air when the sub was starting to dive this circuit was all so linked to the front hydroplanes to make them fold down as it dives and then when the sub surfaces it folds the hydroplanes back up to take air back in to put it back to 1 bar pressure in other words normal air pressure this all so stops condensation. This circuit is all so linked to the electronics for the tank control steering and the differential throttle control for the main drive motors had to switch out when the sub dives, the mosfet speed controllers that where designed had been built in such a way it you weeded up on of the props the speed controller will shut down the software that is driving the mosfets so pulse by pulse if it is pulling heavy current more than it has been told to do it will shut the drives to the motor down.
The sub has to switch it self on when you put it into the water, back hydroplanes are all level controlled as well front hydroplanes work on level control and depth control as well. All the electronics sit on alloy plate as cooling for all mosfet drive circuit sorry to say guys i don't think you will be doing this with micro switches you will see magic smoke if you try.
All sound effects will be stored on a micro SD card must say a big thanks to Tim for editing the diesel sound that he did for me i think it turned out really well i am really pleased with the way it has turned out at the moment as it should be interesting to see how it all works when it is finished will have to try to put some pictures up. Have read a couple of posts on making black smoke i would like to fit this in to the sub i think i know how to do it but again it means hitting it with some electronics to get it to work but we will see.
All the best Sub John
timgarrod:
Few photos, nearly ready for the water
sub john:
Hi Tim
I see you have put the pictures up that you took of the conning tower today, have still got allot more detail i won't to put on the conning tower and won't to do alto of detail on the deck as well. One thing that i was not happy about is when i started to drill the periscope shears they just started to brake up, if you look at the ones that are on the conning tower now i made them out of plastic card and plastic tube with brass tube inserts for the periscopes to work that took a week to make and was a bit of a hard job to fit all the LEDS in for search light light on front of periscope shears and port and starbird lights, but it all seems to be coming together. This afternoon when you went i finished making the railings for the front of the conning tower so all the railings on the conning tower are finished apart from a bit of filing.
Don't know wheather to put weld lines on the hull and on the conning tower have seen it done on some models but the weld line seems to stick out to far from the hull, after seeing really photos of a real Gato so just don't know if to put them on or not i know you said you did not think it was worth it but i will see.
On one of the pictures of the hull that you took you can see some electronics on top of a PCB board that board acts as a screen between the electronics on the top under that there is a alloy plate which as got all the main power control circuits for tanks motors regulator circuits which acts as a big heat sink for all the electronics, under that alloy plate there is 4 packs of Nickel metal hydride 7.2 volts at 4.6 amps which are wired in parallel when charged gives me about 19.4 amps which should give me a good running time. Under the battries metal shot has been placed along the hole of the hull inside the water tight compartment resin was poured on top to make a false floor for the battries to sit on, then in to the false floor was inserted captive nuts for the piston tanks to bold down to front and back which has lead to a very stable sub when on the surface it will be interesting to see how it all works out when it is finished.
Nice to see you today Tim hope some of the advice helpted you All the best John
salmon:
Any updates?
sub john:
HI Salmon
You asked if there has been any up dates to the build, i have now fitted all railings on the deck have been doing a lot of detail for about a week and a half now most of the detail is done. I have just made the front light which sits towards the bow have got to do the one on the back of the sub, i am going to make the periscopes go up and down and get the radar go up and down and turn, but what the plan is in the next few days is take it out and try it before i get Pauline to do the pain job on it and then i will concentrate on getting all the nic-nacs to work over the winter. There is not much to do to the deck now before it is finished what slowed me down is all the electronics that is inside. I spook to Engel in Germany a few days ago told him what i had been up to with the fet switching and software for the piston tanks he said they tried to get it to work with fets but could not get it to work, one of the things he asked me was how long was the delay between filling and emptying the tanks and i said there was none. The controlled board for the tanks could be used to make a very big proportional servo it works that well.
I will have to take some pictures and get them posted up trouble is i have been hard at it trying to get it built, and now weather is changing it does not help
All the best John
PS Do you think i should do weld lines on the hull not sure what to do about this one
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