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Author Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug  (Read 66799 times)

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #150 on: April 21, 2016, 09:57:57 PM »

Oh yes, good idea to take the seat off. I haven't checked, but even the seat holder may be inclined, though.
Tonight, I put a board on the seat and the whole thing worked well. It spins so smoothly. A high quality chair it is.


So - I started with the painting by priming some small parts. I just had to paint something to overcome my fear of painting. I hope I'll get over it and can proceed to the main body of the build.


Can anyone tell me, what they use for tacking? I have microfiber cloth, but "they" tell me it has some chemicals that are not good for paint.


I use Vallejo acrylics.

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #151 on: April 22, 2016, 05:51:07 AM »

Small parts primed once with a 50% Vallejo primer (other 50% is acrylic raisin).
Wooden parts have to be sanded smooth and reprimed.


The brass props are smooth and I don't see a need to apply an additional coat of primer - would you disagree?





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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #152 on: April 22, 2016, 10:38:27 PM »

OK - I screwed up with the primer (I'm having that discussion under painting techniques).
This doesn't help my paint-o-phobia any...

Removing all I can, and start again. (tears have dried already. {:-{  )


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ballastanksian

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #153 on: April 23, 2016, 12:43:27 PM »

Don't fret Josse, you will get there. I cannot help with read to tacking as I have never done it and will try and do without (In a dusty atmosphere, yeah right!)

I wondered wether the swivel mount was angled and looked at my office chair at work. It looked level to me and am pleased that you didn't waste time trying out my suggestion only to find the mount was slanted. Making a wedge of wood would have rectified this, but it just adds to the job.

I am glad the idea worked :-)
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #154 on: April 23, 2016, 07:26:05 PM »

Reapplied a primer (this time etch primer for brass and copper - see "Primer on brass" http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=54635.new#top )


I will stubbornly paint the props, being warned about paint not holding on props too well.
I am thinking bronze or boltgun steel. The rudders will be painted the same.


I can always revert to bare brass, if the paint falls off.


This is how the building site looks now.



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ballastanksian

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #155 on: April 23, 2016, 07:44:22 PM »

She's starting to come together Josse! If the paint doesn't work a quick soak in Paint stripper will clean them off:O)
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #156 on: April 27, 2016, 01:02:42 AM »

The propellers, rudders and anchors got a bronze paint tonight. It's my special mix of Bronze metal and Boltgun metal colours. The second picture should show how it looks.


The propellers and the rudders have a glossy varnish for effectiveness in water (I would have preferred semi-matt for looks' sake). The anchors are semi-matt.





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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #157 on: April 27, 2016, 01:10:18 AM »

It's my special mix of Bronze metal and Boltgun metal colours.


That looks nice Hande - I have those colours in my Warhammer paints so I shall do a mix and see how it looks on some of my 40k armoury. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #158 on: April 27, 2016, 01:20:33 AM »

After the props etc. I finally dared prime the lower house (sigh!).

The primer reveals flaws on the surface - which it shall do, I know. It's just that I'm surprised how much filling I have to do, before I can start with the proper painting.

I have found another good reason to use plasticard instead of plywood: plasticard doesn't grow hair with the first coat of paint. The hair is everywhere - including the narrow spaces between fittings. It's going to kill me sanding it away. The primer being slightly rubbery doesn't help sanding at all.

As if it were not enough of misery - I dropped the house and the other of the two liferaft holders broke into six pieces  >>:-( {:-{ . Being such a delicate piece of work, it was ... erm ... a character building exercise to glue it back together. It's best I glue the raft into the holder asap, to make it more robust.

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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #159 on: April 27, 2016, 08:15:08 AM »

That colour looks really good Hande.
Your experience of "hairy" plywood beggars the question whether it is better to paint the main structures before too much detail is added.
I wouldn't go too mad with the gloss finish underwater, satin Matt is hydraulically more efficient. :-))
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #160 on: April 27, 2016, 08:23:09 AM »

Now, that's good to know about the finish  O0
Without research, I thought, underwater we should go as glossy as possible. Less friction.
Is satin best for rudders and propellers only, or everything underwater?
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #161 on: April 27, 2016, 08:28:37 AM »


Your experience of "hairy" plywood beggars the question whether it is better to paint the main structures before too much detail is added.



I know - I knew beforehand that bare wood grows hair with the first coat. After sanding the plywood, I foolishly just admired, how "smooth" the surface was. I also wanted to glue fittings before painting, for optimal bonding. I should have masked for the fittings, I guess.







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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #162 on: April 27, 2016, 08:32:26 AM »

There are pros and cons for both methods, it is always a difficult choice {:-{
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #163 on: April 27, 2016, 05:01:16 PM »

The propellers, rudders and anchors got a bronze paint tonight. It's my special mix of Bronze metal and Boltgun metal colours. The second picture should show how it looks.



Correction: the Vallejo paint is "Gunmetal".
"Boltgun metal" is a Citadel paint (Games Workshop/Warhammers).



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cos918

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #164 on: April 27, 2016, 05:08:43 PM »

After the props etc. I finally dared prime the lower house (sigh!).

The primer reveals flaws on the surface - which it shall do, I know. It's just that I'm surprised how much filling I have to do, before I can start with the proper painting.

I have found another good reason to use plasticard instead of plywood: plasticard doesn't grow hair with the first coat of paint. The hair is everywhere - including the narrow spaces between fittings. It's going to kill me sanding it away. The primer being slightly rubbery doesn't help sanding at all.

As if it were not enough of misery - I dropped the house and the other of the two liferaft holders broke into six pieces  >>:-( {:-{ . Being such a delicate piece of work, it was ... erm ... a character building exercise to glue it back together. It's best I glue the raft into the holder asap, to make it more robust.




Hi
one of the problems is the quality of the plywood billings use. Crap is the only word to describe it. Ok it has been over 10 years since I made a billings kits but between me and my friend we have done 7 kits and all the wood was poor quality.
You have 3 options
1 use the billings wood and a ton of filler etc
2 get some decent model ply wood and use the billings as templates
3 use plastic card and use the billings as templates .


me i prefer plastic card


john
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #165 on: April 27, 2016, 10:15:48 PM »

I hear you, John.
I'm going to remember these experiences when I start my second build...
This diary is a great reminder O0
Model Boat Mayhem IS great thanks to all yous nice people out there - around the world. I can't stop marveling that fact  :}
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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #166 on: April 27, 2016, 10:30:25 PM »

I think the bottom line is that you never stop learning. Be it from personal experience, that of others and the advice of forum members.
This place is a great resource, long may it continue.


Simon
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #167 on: May 06, 2016, 02:40:14 AM »

After the props etc. I finally dared prime the lower house (sigh!).

I have found another good reason to use plasticard instead of plywood: plasticard doesn't grow hair with the first coat of paint. The hair is everywhere - including the narrow spaces between fittings. It's going to kill me sanding it away. The primer being slightly rubbery doesn't help sanding at all.




It's hard to report on such a big fail... setback, but for completenesses sake:


It wasn't wood hair after all (see the quote). It was primer that had dried already on its way to the surface.
I read Oldiron's tutorial from head to finish and he even offered some further advice (thank you again!).


I have spent the past days removing the primer that I had foolishly sprayed all around the lower superstructure. Yes between fittings and under the staircases.


The primer is gone now, but the plywood and some of the fittings are damaged and plenty of more filling and repair has to be done


Also, I have been preparing for the basecoating of the hull.

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #168 on: May 07, 2016, 04:19:13 PM »

Believe me - I have been waiting for this sensation of finally doing something right  :((
Well, I think I have managed to prime the hull ok. ;D


There were depressions (from factory), scratches (self inflicted) etc. It's all gone O0 :D
and I have a smooth surface to paint the basecoat red.


Credit is due to several Mayhemmers and hours of Youtube tutorials - not so much the manufacturers' sites that are annoyingly poor with information and instructions about their products (I'm surprised).


Special thanks to Oldiron. Although I painted the primer out of a Tamiya spray can, not airbrushed (because of the large surface) his airbrushing tutorial on Mayhem pages is very useful also at this stage, and I will keep the teachings in mind, when I start airbrush painting on the smaller parts. In addition, I even got personal help through PM. I'm very grateful!



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oldiron

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #169 on: May 07, 2016, 07:43:06 PM »

Believe me - I have been waiting for this sensation of finally doing something right  :((
Well, I think I have managed to prime the hull ok. ;D


There were depressions (from factory), scratches (self inflicted) etc. It's all gone O0 :D
and I have a smooth surface to paint the basecoat red.


Credit is due to several Mayhemmers and hours of Youtube tutorials - not so much the manufacturers' sites that are annoyingly poor with information and instructions about their products (I'm surprised).


Special thanks to Oldiron. Although I painted the primer out of a Tamiya spray can, not airbrushed (because of the large surface) his airbrushing tutorial on Mayhem pages is very useful also at this stage, and I will keep the teachings in mind, when I start airbrush painting on the smaller parts. In addition, I even got personal help through PM. I'm very grateful!

  Your hull looks superb. Glad things worked out for you. you're on track now.
Glad to have been of assistance.

John
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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #170 on: May 08, 2016, 11:46:57 PM »

Well, I think I have managed to prime the hull ok. ;D


Looks good in my eyes Hande 8)

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #171 on: May 09, 2016, 02:29:09 PM »

 :D %%  Thank you for your support, both!

Meanwhile, I'm learning to make the surface smooth. I thought I'd do it one part at a time. It's going ok.
In one spot I bared the ABS to get rid of a minor scratch. (feeling confident again - so soon after setback %) :embarrassed: ). Repainted.

For other rough areas it suffices to just sand lightly. So, question:
Should I repaint, where I sanded, even if the bare surface is still covered by primer? The surface obviously looks different, but to the finger it seems more or less the same.

I understand that the paint is not going to cover any unevenness. Therefore, I would _think_ that for optimal result, the primer should be as even as possible. Hence, if sanding is required, new coat of primer is due, where sanded.

If by chance Stavros sees this ;-) I use panel wipes, tack, sand dry. I must thank Stavros for important points! I got panel wipes that don't contain refresheners, perfumes etc. (costly!) I got microfiber tack rags.

I have another question to all:
What are the proper panel wipes and tack rags that YOU use?


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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #172 on: May 09, 2016, 02:46:06 PM »

More of a reminder for myself, but if someone is interested, I'll be glad to shed more light to the matter.
Reply#31 and around is about problems with the sub-deck plywood. I plastered the wound with sanding filler.


The filler turned out stable and smooth.


Somehow when sanding, however, the wound sank into the plywood. I wasn't able to make the surface even. I reapplied more filler and each time the wound sank again.


TODAY I found out what the problem was. I had attempted to remove the delaminated portion, hence the wound and filler. I had assumed everything around was good and healthy. But it wasn't. It was the surroundings that was rising, not the wound that was sinking  >>:-( :o


The fix cosists of cutting through the surface of the delaminated plywood and stuff CA into the cut and press.


Now it's solid all around. Later I will apply another filler coat and hopefully have an even deck.


I was adviced to bin the faulty part and make a new one, but here I am still repairing  :embarrassed: .
I suspect, I'm going to have to make a new sub-deck in future.


Fortunately, the superstructure is removable, so the module is not too big.

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oldiron

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #173 on: May 09, 2016, 06:41:39 PM »

More of a reminder for myself, but if someone is interested, I'll be glad to shed more light to the matter.
Reply#31 and around is about problems with the sub-deck plywood. I plastered the wound with sanding filler.


The filler turned out stable and smooth.


Somehow when sanding, however, the wound sank into the plywood. I wasn't able to make the surface even. I reapplied more filler and each time the wound sank again.


TODAY I found out what the problem was. I had attempted to remove the delaminated portion, hence the wound and filler. I had assumed everything around was good and healthy. But it wasn't. It was the surroundings that was rising, not the wound that was sinking  >>:-( :o


The fix cosists of cutting through the surface of the delaminated plywood and stuff CA into the cut and press.


Now it's solid all around. Later I will apply another filler coat and hopefully have an even deck.


I was adviced to bin the faulty part and make a new one, but here I am still repairing  :embarrassed: .
I suspect, I'm going to have to make a new sub-deck in future.


Fortunately, the superstructure is removable, so the module is not too big.

  Good to try and repair the old part if you can. ts experience for next time. You may want to make a newpart in the end, but what you're doing is giving you invaluable knowledge for next time.

John
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #174 on: May 10, 2016, 11:32:17 PM »

This is the repaired sub-deck.
It looks really ugly.
Nothing that a little paint won't fix - I hope.
I still have to fix some of the weld simulation.



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