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Author Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug  (Read 63528 times)

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #25 on: February 11, 2016, 06:26:05 PM »


Hawsepipes of the anchor chains.

NOTHING is obvious to me.
It took many nights to sleep, before I was brave enough to install the anchor chain hawse pipes.
Sawing along the hole in the hull was a source of anxiety, but I think I made it  :}



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #26 on: February 11, 2016, 08:41:41 PM »

Under the hood of anchor chain hawsepipes.


theory - and practice:
before - and after the mess.


I had to apply the adhesive with a long stick - not my proudest hour. Fortunately, the spectators won't see, what you now see  %)

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #27 on: February 11, 2016, 08:59:00 PM »

Decided to follow Capt Podge's suit and make the superstructure separately removable - if only the kit allows. I see no reason, why not.
I have glued the strips under the edges of the opening to support the attachment of a coaming above the deck.





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ALIMURIMETA

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #28 on: February 12, 2016, 08:18:27 AM »

Hello Hande, what kind of glue you used to glue the deck to the hull? As the glue I used an epoxy mix with pumice. It works fine. It should be resined also the inner part of the deck , to have greater strength and impermeability.





Ciao Ciao ALIMURIMETA

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Francesco G alias ALIMURIMETA

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #29 on: February 12, 2016, 12:16:50 PM »

Francesco,


I used a 2-component PU (Polyurethan) that is "especially good for, a.o. ABS".
I'm no chemist, so I don't mix anything, but rely on professional chemists' skills...

BTW - by my research, I have concluded that epoxy is not good for bonding ABS. May be ok for filling. But I found many reports of epoxy popping off ABS. On the other hand, there are different epoxies.

The seam is very good. I need to fill a little here and there. Planning to use "chemical stone" (a 2 component plasticine-like stuff. Like green stuff, only harder)



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #30 on: February 13, 2016, 07:36:38 AM »

Changed my mind. I just filled the gaps with Tamiya basic putty. The gaps were small enough..



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #31 on: February 13, 2016, 02:59:17 PM »

Messing with the plywood made it break between layers. I tried to glue where I could, but this area was left loose.
I ended up cutting the loose area with a scalpel, and filling it up with a fine filler.
I worry that some time in future, that part will come off, brake the paint layers and generally create nuisance.  {:-{





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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #32 on: February 15, 2016, 07:48:19 PM »

Surgery on the sub-deck is done. I think I managed to salvage it, and not have to make new one.  :-)

I don't know how these "stabiliser fins" are called - so I call them "fins"; :embarrassed:

I sanded them to at least resemble the ones that I have seen on Smit Finland. Glued them on the hull with PU (mentioned earlier, see above). The PU is great in terms of sticking on ABS!!

I noticed that Billings' vision about the "fins" is far from the original. For Billings, they are just decorative detail. I used them anyhow. On Smit Finland, there is an other pair of smaller iron "rods", above the "fins". Just as long, but they are not fin-like at all. I may add them to my model (for decoration  ok2 ).

Does anybody have knowledge about the "fins'" function in models? Do they play any role - if their size, shape and position is correct, that is?



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #33 on: February 15, 2016, 08:58:17 PM »

This is the status today.



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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #34 on: February 15, 2016, 09:17:04 PM »

Hello Hande, you seem to be getting along nicely now.

I will try to update my thread tonight if I get time to do so.

Reference the "fins" - these are known as Bilge Keels, they help to reduce the rolling of a ships hull. The plans for the kit show these bilge keels being pinned through the hull but I have not done so either. Mine have been glued and faired in, just as they were the first time.

Your build is looking good.  :-))

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #35 on: February 16, 2016, 06:19:56 AM »

Hello Hande, you seem to be getting along nicely now.

I will try to update my thread tonight if I get time to do so.

Reference the "fins" - these are known as Bilge Keels, they help to reduce the rolling of a ships hull. The plans for the kit show these bilge keels being pinned through the hull but I have not done so either. Mine have been glued and faired in, just as they were the first time.



Thanks, Ray!
Yes - I was thinking of changing my motto into:"Every hole through the hull is one too many" {-)




I was wondering, if the bilge keels have an effect in scale boats. - I understood their function in the full scale ship.
An other function may be to direct the flow of water into the propellers?



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Brian60

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #36 on: February 16, 2016, 08:25:41 AM »


I was wondering, if the bilge keels have an effect in scale boats. - I understood their function in the full scale ship.
An other function may be to direct the flow of water into the propellers?

You would have to be a quantum physicist to work that one out! For instance you have miniaturised something that works well in full size.

So you have miniaturised the bilge keels, however you cannot do the same for the water, so you have a miniature item working against the full scale item. 

Does it have an effect? Possibly. Does it have the same effect as life size? Very doubtful. But a fluid dynamics engineer would be able to tell you for sure. Best way is to treat them as part of the scale build that makes the model look more lifelike.

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #37 on: February 16, 2016, 11:47:52 AM »

Thanks Brian,
I am very much in favour of your suggestion.
Looking at the pictures of people's models, it seems to be a common view.


It's a very good point you made - scale model acting against "full size" water...
This is evident when observing a scale model going in real world waves. The model rocks too quickly.

I already studied some of the math of scale speed - applicable on a placid surface of a pond. Apart from race boats, I think the slower the model travels, the better it looks.


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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #38 on: February 16, 2016, 07:13:51 PM »

So, above I learned a new term, bilge keel.


Here's the next one. After studying the photo of the real Smit Finland/UREKA XIV, I learned that she has this "fender thingy" right above the bilge keel.


I went ahead and produced my first ~scratch~ element to my model, as the Billings kit does not include the "fender thingy". - Does it have a proper term?


I used disposable BBQ skewers that I split in half  %)



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #39 on: February 16, 2016, 07:19:52 PM »


I used a 2-component PU (Polyurethan) that is "especially good for, a.o. ABS".


Glueing the bilge keels and the "fender thingies" I noticed that my PU glue seems the attack the ABS. That's why it sticks so well.
Now I keep my fingers crossed for the attack to cease well before it gets through the hull  {:-{
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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #40 on: February 18, 2016, 09:53:53 PM »

The anchors.
How sad is this?!
... and it's plastic!



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #41 on: February 18, 2016, 10:03:55 PM »

After studying some superb Mayhem threads about glass fibering, I decided that I will do it to add rigidity to the hull.
On the inside, especially aft, it was messy - I have to sort the mess up when (if?) the epoxy cures.

Should I worry about the fact that some air is left under the glass cloth? It will be sealed by epoxy, to be sure, and I don't think the air bubbles are against the false keel.

My concern is water that inevitably finds its way under the sole plate.
- On one hand it's good that it can go there - out of the way of motors and electronics
- On the other hand, it is difficult to dry (I wake up at nights with the picture in my mind of Capt. Podge's hull and the damage water had done there...)


What do you think:
- should I leave the space for bilge water and make sure I dry it well after every dip in the pond? OR
- should I fill the space up with stuff so that no water can go hide under the sole plate?


What have you done?







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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #42 on: February 18, 2016, 10:08:42 PM »

Coaming for the removable superstructure to-be au Capt. Podge.
I made it from balsawood and epoxied it for added strength, while I had some epoxy+IPA solution at hand for glassfibering the hull.



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #43 on: February 19, 2016, 07:24:10 AM »


In case you are awaiting the news: The epoxy cured OK  :-) .


I can say that my first glassfiber operation is a moderate success... Failures include:
- dirt in the epoxy - there is tremendous static electricity in the glass cloth!
- folds in the cloth capturing air bubbles
- little spills of epoxy in places I didn't want them
All in all, OK.

After studying some superb Mayhem threads about glass fibering, I decided that I will do it to add rigidity to the hull.
On the inside, especially aft, it was messy - I have to sort the mess up when (if?) the epoxy cures.

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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #44 on: February 19, 2016, 02:24:13 PM »

I would definitely seal up around the sole plate Hande - after sailing you could upend the boat and sponge out the water but I doubt you would ever get it all.

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #45 on: February 25, 2016, 11:57:17 AM »

I am 400km away from my build  <:( - so nothing happens in my man-cave.
Meanwhile - I have deliberated on some important choices and am about to nail down the following basics - unless I get negative primitive reactions and warnings from fellow modellists:
- brushed geared-down-motors (545 or 555, after I understand their main differences)
- analog rudder servo
- OpenTx (Taranis+, 8-channel FrSKY receiver)
- genuine tank steering/twisting, i.e. two ESCs
- power distribution board la Action
- Kort propellers (these are _expensive_! Where should I buy two opposite direction 54mm 4-blade?)
- SLA main battery - any low current applications of future with separate batteries, if necessary

First stage without extra functionalities, i.e. no switches, sounds, telemetry, but those added once I can make the basic configuration sail. => expandability, removability and modifiability imperative.


Maybe less fundamental choices, but important nevertheless:
- a modular electronics tray, power distribution, receiver - the most needed connectors, charging connector etc) right under the the superstructure (see next)
- removable superstructure, so there is little reason to remove the whole deck
- provisions for lights, rotating radar antenna (connections between hull and superstructure, mast)
- if I can, removable bridge deck - for temporary attachment of a camera in its place.
- removable/replaceable sole plate so I can change _everything_ in the engine room, and be more relaxed in screwing motor, battery, servo mounts etc into it..
- install cross member aft for really good fasteners for the removable deck (au Terry @ Tugforum)




I feel confident about these, but feel free to bring me back to square 1. Now - with no purchases made - it's cheap to make mistakes  :D

This I couldn't decide: Should I go 6V or 12V ?? I would say, 12V gives more degrees of freedom for the future. But under-voltage for the motors would keep them from running too fast. On the othe hand, I thought I'd use down-gears. - Difficult...







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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #46 on: February 25, 2016, 06:54:09 PM »

Sadly if you are not 'awash with the dosh' (money) then you have to pace your project for when you have funds to buy the parts and materials.

One thing I learned about equipment is that when you are testing parts, do not over tax them as if you subsequently find they are too weak, wrong size etc, then you can put them somewhere safe and use them for something else and have not wasted your money in the long term.

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cos918

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #47 on: February 25, 2016, 09:34:06 PM »

Hi ,a few thoughts and ideas


for radios ,there is this one has 14 ch so would do a lot of extras 
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/carson-reflex-stick-multi-pro-14ch-2.4ghz/rc-car-products/395375


For ESC mtroniks are very good. you would need to measure your current pull first.
https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/category/Marine
Note Howes all so do raido and couplings


For props ,there is only one . Best in the world prop shop expensive but good.
http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/products.php?cat=kort-nozzle-propellers


For motors . the 720 bb torque was great ,sadly no longer available. there is the 775 which has lots of power and low current pull. As for brush less I know nothing about them
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/775-dc-motor-12000rpm-with-mounting-bracket.html


For switch lights etc
multiple light circuits
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191443172222?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
for single or duel circuites
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-WAY-Radio-Control-Switch-R-C-RC-Boat-Car-Tank-Plane-NEW-Version-/222031137760?


As for batteries ,due to weight and what can be posted . For SLA I would look  in Finland and for LIPO look at Hobby King .DE


John
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #48 on: February 26, 2016, 05:29:36 PM »

Thank you John!
Great resource directory! O0
I will "print" it and put in on the wall of my man-cave  ok2






Taranis Plus in now ordered with the 8ch-telemetry receiver. It's a nice feeling to have one thing fixed. Now the building continues around an anchor point.



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Brian60

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #49 on: February 26, 2016, 07:08:23 PM »

The multi switch in the ebay link is cheaper to buy from HobbyKing....
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26114__Multi_Remote_Receiver_operated_on_off_Switch_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=multi%20switch

This can also be ordered from their european warehouse which is in Holland Hande.
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