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Author Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug  (Read 66782 times)

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #50 on: February 29, 2016, 05:33:12 PM »

Item from my plan (above): The removable sole plate.


I so disliked the idea of dirt wet going under the sole plate - and staying there.
I also foresaw all the mess-ups with istallation of motors, servos and batteries, eventually ruining the sole plate.


So decided to make the sole plate removable/replacable - and made a solemn promise to myself about an annual cleanup.
Visited the hardware store and found these nuts that I glued into the false keel.


I am thinking that there should be some kind of noice suppression between the sole plate and the hull. Planning to put a strip of rubber mat there.


How's this for over-engineering  ;)







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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #51 on: February 29, 2016, 05:44:06 PM »

Item from my plan (above): Fastening of the removable deck.


I learned some of this from Terry in the Tug Forum: You cannot see it here, yet, but I will make these screws with handles look like two extra bollards. I am pleased about the extra rigidity gained by the additional cross member, where the nuts sit to accept the fastening screws.


An other chapter about over-engineering, but my removable deck is not going to fly off in any storm of other bumpy waters  :}
(In case, you are interested, you may want to go back where I show, how the bow-end of the removable deck is secured.)





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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #52 on: February 29, 2016, 11:14:26 PM »

I will make these screws with handles look like two extra bollards.

I am intrigued - looks like it could be one for the future. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
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Brian60

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #53 on: March 01, 2016, 01:46:48 PM »

Those captive nuts are available down to size 3mm so the options for disguising the bolt parts as other types of deck fittings is big indeed. Bollards, bitts, capstans, winches, even clutter like oil drums could disguise the bolt ends. Imagination is all you need.

Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #54 on: March 01, 2016, 03:11:14 PM »

Thanks Brian, oil drums, an excellent disguise for the screws securing the back deck on my Ayton Cross.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #55 on: March 01, 2016, 10:32:04 PM »

Noice suppression under the sole plate.
The black strips are rubber.
The finishing is a regular primer (grey) sealed with epoxy. Hopefully waterproof.



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #56 on: March 07, 2016, 08:11:46 AM »

My radio - Taranis Plus;

I haven't received the radio, yet, but I have already made the first version of programming with the OpenTX Companion software on my Mac.

Functions of my startup phase:
- flic of a switch:
     - failsafe (motors shut down, rudders slightly toward port side)
- selection switch
     - switch between synchronised motor drive and tank steering
- 3-position selection switch for trying 3 different expos on the rudders
- delay in rudder response (intended for realism)
- slowing down of rudder movement (realism and gentleness on the rudders)
- adjusting of rudder extreme positions
- adjusting of zero position offset
- flic of a switch (well - this is just for learning. I don't know if this is useful):
     - disable throttles sticks
     - disable rudders stick

It's cool to be able to simulate the radio after each stage of programming.


In future, there will be lights, sounds, telemetry, etc...
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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #57 on: March 11, 2016, 03:44:56 PM »

The basement of the superstructure turned out fine.
But with all the curvature of Billings plywood the house doesn't sit well. :(( >:-o



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #58 on: March 11, 2016, 03:45:58 PM »

Waiting for deliveries...



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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #59 on: March 11, 2016, 03:48:27 PM »

Software is nice...




But don't we just LOVE    _ H A R D W A R E _    :-) {-) :} :-))





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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #60 on: March 11, 2016, 04:00:22 PM »

Looks like you are making steady progress Hande. Like the hardware. O0

Take your time sorting out the lower superstructure, it will be worth it in the end. :-))

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #61 on: March 11, 2016, 04:46:47 PM »

Take your time sorting out the lower superstructure, it will be worth it in the end. :-))
Thanks, Ray  :-)


Yes - whatever comes on top, will stand or fall with what lies beneath...
The deck isn't straigt, now, is it..!?

You are using plasticard, which is straight by default. But I have a disaster cooking up with the vertical walls, where the staircases should be erected. The blinking walls bend inwards both vertically and horizontally.
Do you still get these "I knew that, but didn't think about it" experiences..? I'm hoping this is a newbie-thing and with experience, you think of _everything_ before you cut and glue and paint...  ok2


We note your comments on the formatting problem above and would appreciate comments from members as to WHY it's happening

Ken

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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #62 on: March 11, 2016, 05:04:31 PM »

[/size]Do you still get these "I knew that, but didn't think about it" experiences..? I'm hoping this is a newbie-thing and with experience, you think of _everything_ before you cut and glue and paint... [size=78%] ok2


 {-) {-) I get those experiences every time I open the workshop door. {-) {-)

...but seriously, there is always a chance of putting these things right.
As you proceed with the stairs you should find that, once it's all together, the force of the other bits and pieces will should straighten the thing out.
Note: I imagine the fitting of the rear bulkhead (the one with the louvre vents) should help straighten things up a bit. :-))

A word about Plasticard - it is very difficult to get a straight edge but, again as things go together, mistakes are often nullified or otherwise hidden. ;)

Keep at it Hande - you'll get there....

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #63 on: March 13, 2016, 02:55:48 PM »

How true, Capt!  It's like magic...
The rear bulkhead was under a lot of weight for more than two days, because it was all bent - well, screwed.
When I finally got glueing it to the rest of the lower house, the whole thing straightened up*  :-)


The only thing that didn't fix itself was the starboard bulkhead. I will be amazed if adding the staircase straightens that one, too...




*Well, I have now also learned about "covering and hiding my sins"  :embarrassed:
This is how innocence is lost and the cynical model builder is emerging..?  ok2



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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #64 on: March 13, 2016, 03:02:27 PM »

I was reading a thread about rivet heads.
Decided to experiment with an idea that I had:


I pressed on kitchen aluminum foil, with the back end of a small paint brush, against a pinewood block.
I got very nice holes, which on the back side turned out nice bumps.
Then I filled the holes with glue (PVA) and the result looks promising. If I work carefully and not hastily, as I did now, I will create an appearence of a row of heavy bolts that connect the fender blocks in the stern and the bow.


All this because in the kit, the attachment of the fender blocks is not realistic at all (just glued).
In pictures of my full-size version they are attached with two bolts each.





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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #65 on: March 14, 2016, 03:22:39 PM »

Seat for the rudder servo.



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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #66 on: March 14, 2016, 03:26:24 PM »


Take your time sorting out the lower superstructure, it will be worth it in the end. :-))

Regards,

Ray.


Got it!  O0 :}


I innovated on making the house sit exactly along the curve of the deck.
I was so eager that I forgot to take pictures step-by-step.
Once the glue has cured, I will post a picture of the result, before trimming.



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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #67 on: March 14, 2016, 03:45:27 PM »

Seat for the rudder servo.
Well, that shouldn't go anywhere! :-))
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #68 on: March 14, 2016, 04:17:59 PM »

Well, that shouldn't go anywhere! :-))


Just to make sure - I have my dog watching... :police:
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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #69 on: March 14, 2016, 11:29:16 PM »

Apart from seating the servo, I have practiced my skills of painting. I am re-ally afraid of starting the paint work  {:-{ . What if I mess up..!


I also made bottom shields for my Action electronics. I am planning to use velcro to install them, the receiver and ESCs for easy reconfiguration, should I decide on such an endeavour in future. For instance, I may have to look for the optimal location for the Rx.


I also test-installed the push rods - and wondered, how the wingy things should be made at the rudder-ends...*


Explanation: The rudder shafts are just shafts with M3 thread at the top end. My local shop didn't carry the pushrod arm* for such. Seems ridiculous to order something like that over the mail. If I attempt to make them myself, I would have to be able to produce two identical, which is ten times more difficult than to make just one. I suppose, the arms should be soldered - I wouldn't trust glueing or thread-locking two nuts. - Should I?




* what is the term for the "pushrod arms"?  :embarrassed:



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #70 on: March 15, 2016, 01:46:01 PM »


I innovated on making the house sit exactly along the curve of the deck.
I was so eager that I forgot to take pictures step-by-step.
Once the glue has cured, I will post a picture of the result, before trimming.


Here it is.
1. I spread glue abundantly around the bottom of the house.
2. pressed gently a sheet of office overhead foil (remember those?) on the glue
3. turned the house around and pressed it down until I felt and saw it reach the final position
4. let the glue cure 20 hours


Now I have to cut around to remove the excess foil. I will leave it underneath the edges.
The fit is so snug that by adding a thin rubber seal water can hardly reach the coaming collar under the superstructure.


The glue is: Bostik grab adhesive (the tube package has no indication about the chemistry about the stuff.) It cures flexible and can be painted over.


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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #71 on: March 15, 2016, 11:59:06 PM »

Now you're getting the hang of it Hande. O0

That superstructure is looking good and your ideas are credible - well done. :-))

I'm curious to know what the marked circle on the top is for ?

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #72 on: March 16, 2016, 04:56:05 PM »



I'm curious to know what the marked circle on the top is for ?

Regards,

Ray.


Me too. Billings seems to have had an idea. It is actually cut through.
One possibility is that they have used the area to cut one piece there, because according to their vision, that space is not going to be exposed. I didn't check yet, where such a circular piece would be needed.


I have started to think that I could may be exploit such a nice opening to realise my plan to make the wheelhouse removable so as to allow occasional camera sessions.





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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #73 on: March 16, 2016, 05:08:56 PM »

A very elegant solution indeed. :-))
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #74 on: March 16, 2016, 10:03:18 PM »

It's like christmas  %)


My Kort props and metal anchors arrived and I couldn't be happier!




My only concern is about the shop (Hobby-Lobby, Germany).


For this small package, they charged over 20 (Heavier package from Component shop 6). They have the worst deal with German post!
Write to them in English they reply in German >:-o
I'm glad they are not the only store out there!



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