Topic: Esc problems. I think!! (Read 13569 times)

inertia · « **Reply #25 on:** March 03, 2016, 08:02:57 pm »

Ginger
What sort of model is it? 450 x 300 sounds a bit work-boat-ish. You'll find that any motor of this size (500, 540,545, 550, 600) has exactly the same mounting dimensions and shaft diameter, so replacing the motors with something a little less violent would be relatively cheap and simple.
Dave M

Ginger64 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 03, 2016, 08:57:29 pm »

Just put a 12v 10amp battery on boat. And it's not cutting out at all. So think that's the problem. A few of you have said it may be this. So now have to try and find a battery the right size and power for the boat. Will keep you all up dated. Many thanks for all those who posted and stan who called me and enlightened me on many things. Great work people.

Ginger64 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 04, 2016, 03:55:49 pm »

So. Next problem. I need the smallest battery with the most power. And the lightest. Bet we all say that.!! Now what's your thought on power to reicever. Would I be better off with a separate power pack. Or keep as is. Which is off main boat battery. Would it be safer with a separate battery pack to reicever,and would it mean if main boat battery was low it could still make it back to dry land,be it a lot slower.

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #28 on:** March 04, 2016, 05:12:14 pm »

As before, don't run it on 12v! If you can fit a 6v 10amp gel ( or 12amp gel ), you should have enough capacity to avoid brown outs, but that kind of depends on your third dimension, i.e. depth? ( or failing that, is it a speedboat or tugboat? kind of important that bit

).
I don't know, or more truthfully, have forgotten, if you will have the 'get you home' capability with Mtroniks or similar controllers, if you use a seperate rx pack. The size of this will depend on how many servos are working on the model. Anything above 1200mah should be good for at least three hours on one servo and two speed controls.
The other options for main batteries are 7.2v NiMhs, lighter than gel batteries, or LiPos. Even lighter, but you will need to fit some sort of low voltage protection for them on the model, plus you will need a dedicated charger to suit..

Ginger64 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 04, 2016, 05:35:27 pm »

Boat has 1 servo,two esc,s. 3 led lights,that's it. Batterys I was using were 6v 4amp which as I now know are too small.

Ginger64 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 04, 2016, 05:38:55 pm »

Would these do.

Ginger64 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 04, 2016, 05:44:52 pm »

Another question,any one ever used lap top batterys. High amps and voltage. Just a thought,may be possible to alter one to fit a boat.

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #32 on:** March 04, 2016, 05:51:24 pm »

A variation on the theme would be advisable....It does say 'Superior Quality' on that Made In China battery, so assume the opposite

.
Best advise would be 7.2v NiMhs of between 4000mAh and 5000mAh. These should stand up to some medium level abuse. The problem with bigger numbered cells is that its all promise but with no delivery. They may provide up to 6800mAh, but only at something like 600mAh for example. Much higher currents and they may well dump much earlier than the maths would indicate.
Try your local model shop, online via Component Shop or one of the big RC Car dealers, i.e Modelsport UK, for decent 7.2v batteries.

malcolmfrary · « **Reply #33 on:** March 05, 2016, 10:31:33 am »

Quote from: Ginger64 on March 04, 2016, 05:44:52 pm

Another question,any one ever used lap top batterys. High amps and voltage. Just a thought,may be possible to alter one to fit a boat.

In that they are very ordinary cells inside a shaped case, yes they can be used with the case removed. BUT - not all are NiMH, many are lithium types and need the right charger. Since they are intended for use in a fixed environment and laptops do not present a particularly heavy load they don't tell you the C rating, so there is no telling whether any one particular battery would work. If the chosen one cannot supply the current wanted, you are back to square one.
In the medium and long term, it is probably more economical to go to a "proper" battery supplier as suggested above. If 6 volts is giving the wanted performance, they can supply 6 volt packs - you are not stuck with the higher voltage that you don't want anyway.

Ginger64 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 05, 2016, 11:32:14 am »

I get where ur coming from Malcolm. But my problem is battery size. Not having room for a big battery. Need 7.2 v and as high amps as I can get. Been having probs with the boat cutting out on 6v 4amps under load. Tried 12v 10amps and boat seems fine. Do you think if I put a seperate power feed to the rieciver it will help. Would it give me chance to get boat back if current on main battery falls low,

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #35 on:** March 05, 2016, 01:43:19 pm »

I have just tested a 20amp Viper Marine speed control with the set up using a seprate 4.8v Rx pack..just out of curiosity you know. The main problem was finding a dead or nearly dead battery for the main drive, found one that would take a charge in the end.
With an old Simprop 600 motor (similar to the Johnson motors) and a rapidly flattening 7.2v main battery, the 4.8v pack continued to operate the rudder, as the main battery dropped to 3.5v, when the motor stopped rotating.
So in answer to your question, yes, a separate Rx pack will provide a get you home function, for as long as you have reserve voltage in the main pack.. you could always use the rudders to paddle it home if all else fails.
I have been asked many many times if this or that is suitable for 'my model'? I find it handy to know what type of model it is...this is still a mystery, but we do know how big it is, which is a start

Best quotes ever when asked what type of boat it is..
1)" Well you sold it to me!"
2) (personal favourite of all time, ever..) "Its a red one.."
More info always better than less info. Although in this case I think the colour scheme is not going to effect the final performance of the model

Ginger64 · « **Reply #36 on:** March 05, 2016, 02:31:14 pm »

I've tried to post a pic for ya but it tells me file size is too big.

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #37 on:** March 05, 2016, 02:38:06 pm »

I know a picture tells a thousand words, but one or two should clear this up........Viking Longboat?

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #38 on:** March 05, 2016, 02:39:00 pm »

Its not two Springers glued together is it?

Ginger64 · « **Reply #39 on:** March 05, 2016, 02:41:33 pm »

Ginger64 · « **Reply #40 on:** March 05, 2016, 02:42:09 pm »

Twin props.

Ginger64 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 05, 2016, 02:49:15 pm »

Had this boat years. Repaired it loads of times. Up graded it from fm to 2.4. Love the thing. Use it for fishing now and again. The boat has had all sorts of probes over the few years I've had it but most are now sorted. Have changed original direct drive motors to props and uni couplings sorted all the leak problems. Fitted new motors twice as the condensation rusted um. Now fitted new speed controls as the old ones gave up. So would still like to keep the thing running if possible. I know it's a bait boat,and prob will be frowned upon but hey,I'm trying. And do like to know how things work and repair my self when possible. And any help on the way is taken on board. Excuse the pun.

Netleyned · « **Reply #42 on:** March 05, 2016, 02:55:06 pm »

Dave Jones AKA Stavros is the bait boat guru
on this forum.
He might pop up with a word or three.
Probably tell you how to paint it too

Ned

Ginger64 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 05, 2016, 03:07:36 pm »

Not to fussed about looks. Just want it reliable. How they managed to sell this boat in the first place is beyond me, it leaked through the prop shafts. Which were as said. Direct drive through an O ring seal in boat hull. When rotating the water leaked in. Which is why I fitted sleeved props and sealed them to boat hull. Motors were well under rated so fitted better ones. Bait drop was rubbish so I improved that. Just nice to try and improve it rather than chuck it!

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #44 on:** March 05, 2016, 06:12:43 pm »

That's not a Viking Longboat!!
So no rudders to wiggle you home either?
I have fixed a fair few bait boats over the last few years. The last one being a Sabre last week, pretty decent bit of kit for a change. Hull upper and lower bolted together onto a rubber gasket instead of gunged up with mastic or silicone. Typical fail point..cut price on/off switch, replaced that and all was good.

So I assume that it wont take a great load of batteries because of the hull shape. If it is intended for short trips out from the shore and back, typically three to five minutes at a time, 7.2v NiMhs should be fine. If you can stretch to it fit two at a time, one per speed control. A separate Rx pack will give you peace of mind, just fit a big one if you are going to be out for some hours.
It may also be worth investing in a 12v fast charger, plus a couple more packs, to boost your time at the waters edge up just that bit more.
Just don't skimp on the power plant of the model, its the difference between a pleasing day out at the pond and a frustrating half an hour retrieving the model from the reeds.
And never trust a battery that states it is SUPERIOR QUALUTY

Ginger64 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 05, 2016, 06:30:26 pm »

As you can see mine has mastic to hold it together. Not nice to gain access lol. But hey I'm a plumber I can use a mastic gun. Would you recommend any 7.2 batterys. So many about. And when you say 12v charger do you mean for the car to the battery. Rx pack do I go for more amps or more voltage or both.

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #46 on:** March 05, 2016, 06:40:05 pm »

6v Rx pack would be good, anything over 2000mAh should be ample. Can you charge a 6v pack up? If not a similar bigger capacity 4.8v pack will suit also.
7.2v packs, as before, aim for between, lets say 3800mAh and 5000mAh. J Perkins sell 3800mah packs, Voltz do a nice mid priced 4600mAh pack and Component Shop do loads of different ones, all a good brand, Ripmax do a decent 5000mah pack also. Just stick to decent UK sources rather than out sourcing to the other side of the world..
12v charger, yes, a car type. Either croc clips on the battery or lighter adaptor types. Or a decent mains and 12v one, costs a bit more but pretty universal capabilities.

Ginger64 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 05, 2016, 06:59:48 pm »

Thanks for info. Gutted I can't run it on lipo. So much lighter and cheaper. Should have researched better before getting the viper esc. Never mind will still see what's available.

Onetenor · « **Reply #48 on:** May 29, 2016, 05:14:39 am »

Quote from: unbuiltnautilus on March 05, 2016, 06:40:05 pm

6v Rx pack would be good, anything over 2000mAh should be ample. Can you charge a 6v pack up? If not a similar bigger capacity 4.8v pack will suit also.
7.2v packs, as before, aim for between, lets say 3800mAh and 5000mAh. J Perkins sell 3800mah packs, Voltz do a nice mid priced 4600mAh pack and Component Shop do loads of different ones, all a good brand, Ripmax do a decent 5000mah pack also. Just stick to decent UK sources rather than out sourcing to the other side of the world..
12v charger, yes, a car type. Either croc clips on the battery or lighter adaptor types. Or a decent mains and 12v one, costs a bit more but pretty universal capabilities.

Don't decry all far Eastern batteries. Bang Good do some great battries with names well known in Canada and the U.S.

roycv · « **Reply #49 on:** May 29, 2016, 08:47:29 am »

re comments on far east Nimh batteries. If they are cheap there is a reason.

If they are marked as a high capacity but feel light in weight you have been conned.

I have an amp hour charging monitor and batteries I purchased marked 3800 mAh were in fact 1450 mAh, they were cheap I should have known.

I bought AA cells marked 2500 mAh KNOWING that they were 1000 mAh but on charge in a transmitter they over heated and warped the plastic and now I cannot use the Tx. I have had hot batteries before but never had plastic warp from the heat.

The higher the amp hour capacity the heavier Nimh cells should be.

I have some quality batteries in use that must be well over 20 years old now. In the long run buy from a known reputable supplier, it is cheaper in the end.
regards Roy

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Author Topic: Esc problems. I think!! (Read 13569 times)

inertia