Topic: Severn trip tab mounts and actuator mounts (Read 22876 times)

craggle · « **Reply #50 on:** May 16, 2016, 08:03:40 pm »

Hi Les

Like the cabin on the hull, will be a unique boat that way around.

I see you have decided on fitted a bow thruster as well.

Funny you should ask about the hinges on the exhausts as I've just finished that job tonight. I decided to use 1mm brass rod and brass tube that was a good fit over the rod.
I cut a small piece of the tube to fit between the hinges and two even smaller bits to slide on the outside. The outer bits were then stuck in place with a touch of solder on the ends.

It is kind of permanent, no taking them apart at the lake without a soldering iron but then I'm also pretty sure they won't fall off and get lost in the water.

Craig.

lesfac · « **Reply #51 on:** May 16, 2016, 09:24:19 pm »

Good solution. I don't know why it never occurred to me that 1 mm brass rod and tube is available. I have ordered 18gauge (1.2mm) hypo needles to do the job (£3.50 for 50) but i hadnt thought it out completely. Being stainless steel I can't solder it. As I said I was wondering about inserting reduced 1mm bolts but your solution is better. little brass caps on the outside of the rod seems better. 2 big ifs. If I can make the caps that small and if Loctite would be strong enough.
I will experiment with the needles but I will also seek out the brass rod and tube in case I end up copying you. Thanks for the help
Les

nemesis · « **Reply #52 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:26:58 pm »

A good representation for S/Steel can be had by using sheet Zinc. It polishes up well, easy to solder and work.
nemesis

RMH · « **Reply #53 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:39:42 pm »

Hi

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm doing the same jobs myself however the standard of my soldering is way below yours and I have just wrecked one of the exhaust flaps

I hate soldering and have not been looking forward to this bit at all.

Richie

nemesis · « **Reply #54 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:48:10 pm »

practise makes perfect, keep on trying, it does get easier. Are you using the right flux/solder and then there is the iron to consider. Try solder paste, dear but it is worth it for fiddly items, if the railway modellers use it for their kits it must be ok.
Nemesis

lesfac · « **Reply #55 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:59:58 pm »

I am not a good solderer but one thing that improved things for me was when I started cutting small pieces of solder wire and laying it against the joint before applying heat. It is much neater than trying to introduce the solder off the roll.
Also I use a small gas torch not a soldering iron.
Finally I find I have to rig up something to hold the pieces quite securely in place dry
I would not presume to advise or say this is the way to do it but after a fair few balls ups its a method I can work with
Les

derekwarner · « **Reply #56 on:** May 16, 2016, 11:36:59 pm »

Can't beat them Les

....... Derek

boat captain · « **Reply #57 on:** May 17, 2016, 08:47:15 am »

Quote from: lesfac on May 16, 2016, 09:24:19 pm

Good solution. I don't know why it never occurred to me that 1 mm brass rod and tube is available. I have ordered 18gauge (1.2mm) hypo needles to do the job (£3.50 for 50) but i hadnt thought it out completely. Being stainless steel I can't solder it. As I said I was wondering about inserting reduced 1mm bolts but your solution is better. little brass caps on the outside of the rod seems better. 2 big ifs. If I can make the caps that small and if Loctite would be strong enough.
I will experiment with the needles but I will also seek out the brass rod and tube in case I end up copying you. Thanks for the help
Les

Try and obtain some phosphoric acid that is the flux for soft soldering stainless.

lesfac · « **Reply #58 on:** May 19, 2016, 06:08:43 pm »

I have managed to use the hypodermic needles to be the shafts for the hinges on the exhaust pipes.
I got some 18 gauge needles (1.2mm od) and these run through the assembly to be the hinge rod. Luckily a 1mm bolt fits quite snugly inside an 18 gauge needle so I cut 2 bolts off to 3mm under the head and loctited them in
Also luckily I found that an 18 Gauge needle is a nice fit inside a 16 gauge needle which I had also bought a batch of.
I cut a piece of 16 gauge needle to go between the lid hinges with the 18 gauge going through that.
I am taking an optomistic view that the loctite will be a permanent solution
Les

Chris57 · « **Reply #59 on:** May 19, 2016, 09:06:43 pm »

If you are looking for phosphoric acid, try Coca Cola - yes really. Read the ingredients.
Chris

lesfac · « **Reply #60 on:** May 26, 2016, 08:53:21 pm »

I am wondering about the ways to colour the trim tab actuator assemblies the colour of stainless steel. Craig has plated his and it looks a nice job but I don't have a plating kit and I am guessing other people have painted theirs?
Have people painted them before fitting to the boat or painted them in situ? If you paint them before assembly the bolt heads will need painting after fitting. If you paint them in situ masking off will be tricky.
What's the best way to go about it and if paint what colour/type/method
Les

Flundle (Speedline Models) · « **Reply #61 on:** June 01, 2016, 08:04:42 pm »

I have been following this topic and its great to see how much your enjoying these bits. Your all far too modest.
Adrian

lesfac · « **Reply #62 on:** June 02, 2016, 09:18:27 pm »

This project is making me be patient a thing I could not claim previously. I now make better preparation before commiting to an action rather than hit it and hope. I guess the value of what I am working with promotes that.
The following might be of interest.
I looked for a way to control the bow thruster using micro switches and a servo that I already have.
The following picture and circuit show what I have. Its a bit primitive in that it only offers Off, Forward and Reverse.
With neither micro switch pressed its off, press one and it goes one way press the other and it goes the other way. If something goes wrong and both are pressed it goes off again. (Not a burn up)
I have it wired to a 7.2 volt nimh battery which is the rated voltage of the bow thruster motor. This might prove to be a bit energetic for on/off control. I would look for a steady medium sort of thrust but I wont be able to tell until I try it in the water. I might try less volts if need be. Its cost me nothing as I had the parts already but if it isnt any good I will invest in an off the shelf solution.
I found the circuit diagram on the web and it seems to work ok.
(In the photo the 2 fuses are to do with the main motors and nothing to do with the bow thruster.)
Les

Robin smith · « **Reply #63 on:** June 03, 2016, 12:46:13 am »

When I built my Severn I got a unit from Action electronics controlled direction of thrust and speed nice neat installation which was grouped on the verticle mounts running down the side of the main hatch.Left me loads of space.

lesfac · « **Reply #64 on:** June 03, 2016, 07:18:20 am »

Hi Robin
I think in the end I will go the same way as you but I want to see how my set up performs.
I just looked at Action electronics and it's not clear to me which unit I would need. I have emailed them to ask.
Les

TomHugill · « **Reply #65 on:** June 03, 2016, 02:21:44 pm »

Any small esc will do the job, something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162021976506

lesfac · « **Reply #66 on:** June 03, 2016, 04:59:14 pm »

Thanks Tom
I think I have one from before I converted a boat to brushless. You have made me rethink.
I have 2 escs for the 2 main brushless motors and I had to cut the positive wire to the receiver on one esc. I guess I will need to cut the positive wire on the bow thruster Esc to receiver Cable? I will run the bow thruster off a 7.2volt nimh while the main motors will run on a pair of 5 cell lipos in parallel.
Les

lesfac · « **Reply #67 on:** June 07, 2016, 10:32:57 am »

I made a start on bolting the trim tab hinges to the boat using M1 x 8mm bolts. I made some plates out of 1.5mm aluminium to go inside the boat and stop the nuts pulling into the fibre glass. I had to reduce the thickness of the plates by half in order for the bolts to reach and get the nuts on. Only one side tab done at the moment.
Here's the problem. I can see that the large centre trim tab hinges will need longer bolts and I haven't seen any hex head m1 bolts that are longer than 8mm.
At the moment my solution is to buy some 10mm long slotted head screws and fit them with the nuts outside the boat. I will then grind off any excess bolt with a Dremmel.
This also is attractive because fitting nuts to m1 bolts blind is quite a merry game. The centre tab looks like it will be more difficult because of the piece of wood installed to carry the rudder tubes.

Here's something that might be useful...I needed a 1.5mm af nut runner and I found that a 3mm grub screw has a 1.5mm socket. Grind the head to reduce the socket depth and put it into something you can hold and it worked fine.
Am I missing any options on the m1 Screws?
After I get the hinges on the boat I think it will be possible to give the hull a trial run in the water as the running gear is operational. (Patience has never been my strong point)
Les

craggle · « **Reply #68 on:** June 07, 2016, 10:42:58 am »

Hi Les

As you have made aluminium plates to spread the load on the inside of the boat have you thought of tapping the holes instead of drilling them clearance? Tapping an M1 thread in aluminium shouldn't be too bad, drilling the hole first may be though.

Craig.

lesfac · « **Reply #69 on:** June 07, 2016, 11:34:26 am »

Hi Craig
Drilling and tapping might be a bit tricky at that size for me.
I think i will hold that in reserve and try my nuts on the outside method and see what it looks like. I am thinking after primer and colour coat it might be difficult to see, if the bolt was ground flush to the top of the nut. Also as i said nuts on the outside eases assembly considerably. (Although your suggestion of a tapped plate would also seem to be an advantage.)
Les

17-09 · « **Reply #70 on:** June 07, 2016, 11:35:36 am »

Expo tools do a set of nut spinners.About £4.00 each size, readily available
17-09

Chris57 · « **Reply #71 on:** June 07, 2016, 07:30:29 pm »

You can get 1m threaded rod 125mm long, bolt on each end.
Prime -miniatures.co.uk
Chris

lesfac · « **Reply #72 on:** June 08, 2016, 08:56:40 am »

Thanks Chris. I had wondered about threaded rod. I had a look at their site. They do seem a bit expensive for nuts and bolts but I haven't seen threaded rod anywhere else.
Les

craggle · « **Reply #73 on:** June 08, 2016, 09:01:31 am »

I've just spent a load of money here ordering M1.0 nuts and bolts for all the stern fittings and the locker wash ports on the side of the hull. I've got fake studs too for the exhaust ports.

https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/

They do threaded rod in a number of materials.

Strange thing is I've placed the order, got the email confirmation but so far haven't paid anything.....

Craig.

lesfac · « **Reply #74 on:** June 08, 2016, 09:20:51 am »

I bought some m1 nuts and bolts from Knupfer and as you say didn't pay immediately. (I missed seeing threaded rod though). As I recall they ended up making it possible for me to pay by PayPal which I didn't think was an option.
I also bought some from Model Dockyard but the head size of the bolts is 2mm from MD although the nuts are 1.5mm
Les

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Author Topic: Severn trip tab mounts and actuator mounts (Read 22876 times)