Topic: First build "Klimek" tug, scratch build (Read 15157 times)

peter goddard · « **on:** December 23, 2016, 06:58:31 pm »

Start of my first build.
I glued the ribs directly to the build board.
CNC cut luan mahogany underlay.

I'm planking the hull in pine strips, ripped a bunch up today.
The wife is calling me "Dusty"
The bow was a bit twisty, I had to improvise a method of securing her, LOL.
It is surprisingly strong now!
Planing starts tomorrow.
I'm thinking from my research I want to plank from the gunwales up, and the keel down, and fill in the middle bits last.
Please advise if this is wrong.
I'm counting on a lot of advice, and I will keep the pictures coming.

Cheers!

John W E · « **Reply #1 on:** December 23, 2016, 07:32:38 pm »

Hello Peter and welcome to the Forum.

Have you had a good mosey around the masterclass build section of this forum? Because on there - there are several builds for tugs and so forth using the plank on frame method.

Personally when I plank a hull; I plank 5 planks one side of the keel and 5 planks the other side of the keel. I do this to prevent the hull distorting when the glue dries out on the planks. Then I plank from the deck/gunnel edge up over 5 planks.

The other thing I tend to do is when I mount the frames on the building board of the hull, I use square blocks. The reason I do it this way, is if the frame is slightly out I can open up the screw hole that secures the block to the building board which then allows me slight movement of the block to correct any misalignment.

Hope this is of some help. Keep on posting your pictures as we like to have a look and we love pictures on this Forum.

John

peter goddard · « **Reply #2 on:** January 03, 2017, 06:52:34 pm »

Re-booted the project after running into a number of hitches.
The free Klimek plans seem to contain a number of errors?

Anyway, I took the suggestions to heart and I built a new build-board, and I re-drew the plans.
Cutting new parts now.

steve mahoney · « **Reply #3 on:** January 03, 2017, 07:13:27 pm »

It might seem like a lot of wasted time to re-start but having a warped hull is a pretty much unfixable, and you would spend more time trying to correct it than by re-starting.
Well done.
Steve

peter goddard · « **Reply #4 on:** January 03, 2017, 07:54:53 pm »

Absolutely.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #5 on:** January 03, 2017, 10:28:28 pm »

Good luck with your build Peter and top marks for persevering and starting again. Many people would just swear lots and give in.

I look forward to seeing your progress, I am sure the model will be first rate.

peter goddard · « **Reply #6 on:** January 03, 2017, 11:28:26 pm »

I don't give up easily.
My wife says I don't have hobbies, only obsessions.

I have a bit of a leg up over a true beginner, I built a bunch of airplanes. Similar challenges.
I also have about 25 years of CAD and CAM experience, so I can cheat a bit and get nice neat and perfect parts off the little CNC.
This is a day's casual production from a 30cmx30cm CNC I hobbled together from an old engraving machine.
It could go a lot faster, but the edges tear and chip. I take my time.

peter goddard · « **Reply #7 on:** January 03, 2017, 11:35:09 pm »

I ordered a motor and speed controller, shaft and prop yesterday off Amazon. Good prices.
I didn't want to wait till I had the prop shaft to assemble the frame, so I made a notch in the keel with another small notch that enters the skeg. I'm going to glue dowel halves on each side of the notch, and after I get the prop shaft I can use the small entry hole to guide a drill through.

peter goddard · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2017, 11:37:17 pm »

You can see the partially cleared prop shaft notch here.
That light coloured bit is a patch that was already in the plywood.

peter goddard · « **Reply #9 on:** January 05, 2017, 12:43:50 am »

I'm just sitting with a bad cold, enjoying a nice rum and cola, and listening to my CNC finishing panel 4 from my designs.
Not bad, must say.

peter goddard · « **Reply #10 on:** January 05, 2017, 01:03:06 am »

My motor arrived today by Purolator. Two days early.
I will have to see if there are design specs available to set the holes for a mount.
I've milled aluminum a few times with the CNC, and it's no big trial. A nice motor mount will be a complement to the model.
Last bits of frame in the CNC now.
The parts fit so snug, I could almost skip the glue.

Brian60 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 05, 2017, 08:24:05 am »

Its looking good so far and I like the frames cut on your cnc, I do mine the same on a laser of around the same size, you can get more precise finishing on the cuts than you can by hand for sure.

The motor mount for a 500 series is standard throughout the range, if you go to Como drills site the specs for the mount are on there.

peter goddard · « **Reply #12 on:** January 05, 2017, 09:54:58 am »

Thanks for the tip!

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #13 on:** January 05, 2017, 11:19:49 am »

NB: That Joysway 550 Brushed Motor may prove to be a bit fast for a Tug!

peter goddard · « **Reply #14 on:** January 05, 2017, 12:09:21 pm »

I wondered, but I can add a belted reduction if need be. I'm not familiar with water propulsion.
So a tug shouldn't plane then? LOL

The motor was a good deal and I wanted a 5 pole for quiet operation.
The hull is big, so it will give me room to tinker around.
What would you consider ideal for RPM turning that 33mm prop?

John W E · « **Reply #15 on:** January 05, 2017, 12:25:08 pm »

Hi Peter have you seen this build on hear

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=20447.0
and this one
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-scale-boating-103/11583105-scratch-built-polish-tug-klimek.html

john

peter goddard · « **Reply #16 on:** January 05, 2017, 12:39:32 pm »

Yes thanks John,
I study it every day lately.
Very helpful.

A quick calculation of the Joysway 550 which coincidentally has a Kv rating of 550 says I'll be swinging the 33mm prop at about 3300 rpm unloaded at 6 volts. That should be manageable no?

John W E · « **Reply #17 on:** January 06, 2017, 02:32:00 pm »

Hi ya Peter

where did you get the size for your prop from? I do know plastic props are more efficient than brass ones in modelling terms - but - 32 mm does seem a bit small for that size of tug which you are building.

I know I built MSC Archer tug and that is roughly about 23 inches long (in old English money

) and I have on there a 4 blade 50 mm brass prop. That pushes it along quite nicely.

The motor originally came from ACTion (Dave Milbourn) and it was a 555 motor rated at 12 volts but I only ran it on a 7.2 - you can purchase the same motor from Component Shop as well now.

John

peter goddard · « **Reply #18 on:** January 06, 2017, 02:54:50 pm »

Prop size was a shot-in-the-dark.
I was looking for a cheap prop, based only on the shaft diameter and a guess about how big it should be.
I really love your knotted bumpers. I imagine there are instructions in this site somewhere.
I'll have to have a gander.
Canadians are fluent in both metric and what we call "American"(sorry GB) sizes, temperatures, speeds, and distances.
We get confused with weights and volumes. Somehow when it comes to buying food and liquor, we want to refer to the old standards. Strange.
I'm sure I'll soon have a collection of disused parts for my next build.

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #19 on:** January 06, 2017, 04:22:12 pm »

MMB Rope fender set with chain fixings

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MMB-Rope-fender-set-with-chain-fixings-for-model-boats-/272497092144?var=&hash=item3f7217a630:m:meHrF8a3E331xgIBGfAQIUg

John W E · « **Reply #20 on:** January 06, 2017, 04:50:36 pm »

Hi there

First of all; you have to be extremely nice to your better half and she has to be able to knit/crochet - then you have to buy her a plant or something as a bribe and hey presto - Fenders - as long as you supply the ball of string.

Apparently me wife says anyone who can knit could follow Martin's pictures above and produce some fenders.

John

peter goddard · « **Reply #21 on:** January 06, 2017, 05:37:05 pm »

That's a great idea thanks!

My wife does knit, and she supports me being locked up in the garage for days on end, so she will oblige.
I was somewhat taken aback by the price online. In my experience modellers are stingy old crabs.
45 Canadian Pesos before shipping?
I appreciate the links and info, but Nyuh-uh. I'm way to cheap for that.

peter goddard · « **Reply #22 on:** January 07, 2017, 01:37:37 am »

Quick update.
Basically I'm thinking about buying stocks in a clamp and glue enterprise.
Just glued the ribs to the blocks and glued the 4 sections of the keel together.
Tomorrow I'll align the ribs to the centerline and square everything before I glue it all up.
My wife says she will knit my fenders for me!

peter goddard · « **Reply #23 on:** January 10, 2017, 05:59:56 pm »

I laminated some strips to stiffen the keel. I think it looks straight enough.
Made my prop-shaft hole thingy. (not an official nautical term)
The rest of the last few days has been experimenting with how to shape planks.
I know theres a lot of different opinions, but I am getting my best and easiest results from 2mmx7mm oak strips I ripped up myself, and bending them with the aid of a crimping tool I fashioned from a small jewellers plier.
I made a lot of kindling in the process.
I also used a trick from model airplane experience with the frame stringers, and fashioned them from 1/4" dowel instead of square stock. It makes no sense to me to use wood that needs to be bent AND twisted, when the round stock only needs to be bent.
I'll post some pics of the planking as it goes on.
Wish me luck!

ballastanksian · « **Reply #24 on:** January 10, 2017, 09:03:02 pm »

You are a lucky chap to have a supportive spouse:O) I like the idea of building up the prop shaft tunnel like you have. Quite elegant.

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