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[Landlocked]

All,


If you're not into micro-processor programming, ACTion has an equivalent single stick direction/throttle controller for steam engines.  I haven't had a pond period with my TVR1A so I can't comment on it yet.


http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P105.pdf


Ken/Landlocked

[jpdenver]

Ken,

I appreciate the info.  As will some others as well, I am sure. 

My microprocessor control is a project with another member of our club,
so we will keep on tweaking it.

In the meantime, it is time to get started on the paneling.

Thanks for reading, and all comments are welcome.

Jim Pope
Denver,CO
USA

 

[steam up]

Just clicked onto this thread , great build ,if you are having problems raising pressure it might be worth checking the seal on the gas jet. A friends steam plant was having similar issues after trying out a number of changes plumbers tape was added to the thread of the no.5 jet instant improvement in the burner performance problem solved.
Keep the updates coming.
Mark

[KBIO]

Hello!
[/size]Good, this a good gain of experience.
[/size]This is also an important point to check.

[/size]Too much water is effectively, not good at all.
[/size]3/4 of the total capacity is the limit. I load with 2/3 now. I want steam not boiling potatoes and I want to avoid draining water in the outlet.
[/size]Remember that you need 6 to 7 time more energy (including the boiler mass itself) to vaporize from boiling water to 100% steam that you need to bring the water at ebullition temp.
[/size]Your plant is well thought, and I am sure that after some adjustments and help from the Mayhemers, you'll enjoy it.
[/size]Let's us know. Good days and high temps are here soon and you'll can get away from it.
Regards.

[jpdenver]

KBIO and all -

I really think my problem is overfilling the boiler. 
So I will make a bunch of runs at 3/4 and 2/3 and see
what the steamup as well as the total steaming times are.

It snowed here last night and the workshop was almost too cold
to spend a lot of time in.  So It will have to wait until next weekend.

Thanks for the encouraging remarks.

Regards to all,
Jim Pope
Denver, CO
USA

[KBIO]

Hello JP.
If you sail , when snowing, and the boiler full , you may have find where your problem is,  then!!   Unless using pure Propane! And still!
Attached a quick calculator sheet to allow you to know what the max volume to fill your boiler with :
Volumetric - or Cubic Thermal Expansion - Engineering ToolBox
If the total boiler contains 800 cc (you can work it out in Gals) the total dilated volume @ 100°C will be 848cc.
You need to deduct 25/30% of void space for a safe cushion of steam on the top and to avoid draining hot water in your engine line.
So 800cc - 30% = 560cc of water should keep your nose away from problems. (normally)
As you always work at this temp , you can keep in mind the augmentation of the volume of 50cc. 
I would conclude that : "Steaming without having problem, is boring!"
Have a good time steaming in Colorado.
Cheers!

[jpdenver]

Well here it is - one week later and the temp is 80 degrees out.

Just goes to show you how the weather can vary in a Colorado springtime.

So - back to paneling.  I finished the side strips, and started the process of
fitting the bulkheads.

More Pics:

[derekwarner]

Ahhhhhhh.....that Edwardian twin tone vertical panelling always looks beautiful .......[in the right place ]

It also reflects well when the boiler lagging is of uniform hue....

One question not asked Jim ......did you experience any boiler howling when you did your initial steam trials?

Derek

[jpdenver]

Derek,

I did hear some howling, but was more focused on the engine.
so I did not keep track of when it was happening.

So - I must ask - What is the significance?

Thx,
Jim

[jpdenver]

more pics on the planking process

Thanks for reading.

Jim Pope
Denver, CO
USA

[jpdenver]

More Planking.


I SEEK OPINIONS:

White Caulking or Black Caulking?  The Stain I am using
on the Pear Planks is coming out dark.  I am tempted to
switch to the White Caulk.

So - WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Thanks,
Jim

[derekwarner]

Hullo Jim

The deck planking caulking must be the vessel owners preference ....some say that white will show irregularities more than black.....[although this does not appear to be the case as you display below]

With your Pear timber, yes most varnished/oiled/polyurethane type finishes will tend to slightly darken the timber surfaces .......adding stain can only increase the depth of the darkened surface

Timber even when preserved as above, will also darken with heat or sunlight

Derek

[Colin Bishop]

I think a traditional type of vessel like this would always have had black caulking. I think you will find that white is a modern sealant. Also, on a steamboat, I would imagine that it would be difficult to keep the white from getting stained no matter how many galley slaves you had at your disposal to clean the boat!


Colin

[Baldrick]

My view is that the caulk should be in contrast to the planking colour. If you are leaving the deck planks an unstained blond colour then black caulk is appropriate to accentuate it . If you are staining the deck planks a dark colour then perhaps white caulk. The material supplied in the Topaz kit is black card.

[steamboatmodel]

They both look great, personally I would go with the black.
Regards,
Gerald.

[Bernhard]

black caulking ,,,BLACK caulking , will look best on a steam launch..

[jpdenver]

Gentlemen,

Another bit of guidance please.
If you review the Wicksteed build log at:

http://www.wicksteedparkmbc.com/martenhowes-and-baylis-topaz.html

I am looking at the decking.  Is it my imagination or are the deck planks made up of the lime strips
with the pear (from the precut pieces) on the outside. 

If you look at the AFT DECK.  Did he continue to use Lime, or was that Pear?  Looks like a darker color
from the BOW and the Lower Decks of the Fore-Cockpit and Rear Seating Area.

Thanks,
Jim

[RWH]

Hi Jim,


I looked at the photos and it appears to me to be more of a photographic lighting situation problem. The bow seems to be lit with a flat soft diffused light due to the very soft shadows. The aft seems to be lit with a point source or hard light with very deep and sharp shadows. I really believe it is the type of light used and exposure settings that make it appear so differently. I don't think he used different woods for the bow and stern.


Kund regards,


Bob

[derekwarner]

Morning Jim....if you revisit the images, it would appear that the snaps of the stern planking is complete with the semi matte varnish, whereas the bow planking is still under construction and yet to be varnished

Just like brickwork ......imagine if the proud owner of the real launch arrived to find two different types of timber had been used between FWD & AFT planking

Derek

[Baldrick]

I think that "from the box" pear is the provided wood for all the decks and edgings,  The kit is a reconstruction of a typical Windermere steamer of the time so no point in trying to replicate exactly how someone elses model is precisely . Because I liked the appearance of different woods I deliberately used a lighter wood for the planking than the side edging. For obtaining a more even colour the kit instructions suggest using some stain varnish (Blackfriars light oak) to bring lighter pear strips darker.  But this is one particular area to do your own thing without worrying about authenticity, hey  there never was an original TOPAZ was there :



https://www.windermerejetty.org/collection/swallow

[jpdenver]

Baldrick,

I did not realize that the beautiful Emerald was your creation.

I must thank you for your detailed build log.  It has really given me
great guidance.

Thanks for setting the record straight.  I have been staining the pear
a deeper color, I think I will keep that up. 

Regards,
Jim

[Baldrick]

No Emerald is not mine , wish it was . But what in my clumsy way I was trying to say is that the model can be built up to the whim of the person making it and no strict adherence needs to be made to copying the MH&B original design . The following link is to a model (Josephine)built from a Topaz kit but expressing the builders very different take on the subject.


http://www.modelboats.co.uk/sites/2/images/member_albums/1557/717596.jpg

[jpdenver]

Baldrick,
I understand your point.  And I agree. 
Mostly because I am not a student at the historical level on these fine craft.
Since I do not have the knowledge to build a 100% (or close to that) accurate model,
then my own interpretations will have to do.

In that light,  I will get back to the fun part, building this boat.

I started on the bulkhead today, and decided that the forward one next to the boiler
should have some heat protection.  I have some asbestos and lined the opening over the
burner and the face right next to the end of the boiler.

More to come,
Thanks for reading.

Jim Pope
Denver, CO
USA

[jpdenver]

I also decided to add a pan under the engine, just to catch the splatters.

Thx,
Jim Pope

[steam up]

Looking really nice keep the progress photos coming.