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Author Topic: Scratch Building planks  (Read 2094 times)

beesley

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Scratch Building planks
« on: January 23, 2017, 02:22:23 pm »

Hi All


Just got plans for the Smit Nederland for a scratch build at 1/24, next project after finishing my cedar canoe


For the planks would it be possible to use 3mm plywood ripped into thin strips around 10mm


Thanks
Mat
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grendel

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2017, 05:06:05 pm »

yes, but I either rip them on the table saw from pine or buy up old wooden blinds, I picked up 6 blinds at the local boot fair for £15 81x 1" slats per blind, works out at pence per plank. blind slats do need to have the finish sanded down to allow glue to stick properly.
plywood wont give you a lot of sanding before you get to the layer beneath though.
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BFSMP

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2017, 05:34:11 pm »


 A VERY DAFT QUESTION BUT do you mean that the three mm ply is 3mm thick and you want to cut it into [say] 10 mm by the 3mm thick to get a 10 x 3mm plank...


If so, all you will end up with is a pile of wood chips and saw dust I am afraid...


It would be an impossible task and a nightmare plus total waste of timber, sorry to say.


Jim.
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John W E

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2017, 06:23:59 pm »

hi there

plywood has been used many times to plank a vessel - the thickness you are planning to use (3mm thick) may be a little on the thick side.   Cos I believe the hull you are building at 1/24 scale works out at about 40 inches long. Depending on which way you are going to plank the hull, if you plank diagonally, the timber may be on the thick side to bend around the hull evenly.  The way I determine whether the timber is too thick is to get something like a tin can of about 3 - 4 inches diameter and bend the timber around the tin at 90 degrees approx.   If the timber easily bends around - it will be easily usable for planking.

john
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beesley

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2017, 06:51:50 pm »

It was more due to what I have lying around
Solid timber it is. I made 400m of cedar strips 6x19mm forncanoe so had plenty practice


Sanding through the outside veneer wouldnt be an issue would it with fibreglassing over it?
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Peter Fitness

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #5 on: January 23, 2017, 09:28:17 pm »

I have used both 1.5 mm and 2 mm ply ripped into planks with good results but, as pointed out earlier, perhaps 3 mm may be rather too thick. I use a Proxxon table saw with a very thin blade to keep sawdust to an absolute minimum.


Peter.
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tigertiger

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2017, 02:17:00 am »

It also depends on the ply. A lot of the thin stuff is actually door skins, and not as high a quality as regular ply, this is the stuff that just turns to splinters. The ply will also have a natural tendency to curve and this is magnified when you cut it into thin strips. If you want to take advantage of this curving it affects which side of the ply is the face side.


If you are using solid timber, I good tip I was told  :-)) is to add a hand-plane to the mixture.
Take a board the same thickness as the width of plank you want. Plane the face edge smooth.
Rip your thickness of plank on the table saw, then plane the new face edge of the board before ripping each new plank.
That way you already have a smooth face on one side of each plank, the outer face on the model, saving a lot of sanding.
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Peter Fitness

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2017, 03:30:56 am »

The Proxxon saw actually cuts very smoothly, and I have not had to do any excessive sanding.


Peter.
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tigertiger

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Re: Scratch Building planks
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2017, 04:59:24 am »

Ah! Proxxon.  Well I can dream.
The planing tip came from someone who, like me, uses a regular tables saw.
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