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Author Topic: Building the CalderCraft Imara  (Read 34677 times)

ballastanksian

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #75 on: April 26, 2017, 09:44:53 PM »

Reading what Stavros said about P38 being prone to vibration, I will try some other methods to secure my deckwales as well.

Your work with the epoxy and matt is quite tidy as is your filling around the keel/dead water area :-))
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #76 on: April 27, 2017, 06:26:27 AM »

Your work with the epoxy and matt is quite tidy as is your filling around the keel/dead water area :-))


Thank you! It still needs some more sanding, though.
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Tafelspitz

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More Entrails
« Reply #77 on: May 02, 2017, 07:34:50 PM »


Been working on her entrails again. The servo plate is now almost finished. Added the receiver and had to relocate some parts because the receiver is bigger than anticipated with all the plugs inserted.
Put in a couple of 6V 4,2Ah batteries connected in series to give 12V.


I also fitted the bilge pump. And this got me thinking... looking at Brian Robert's Imara build from this thread, I realized that she sits really, really low in the water and that the wash may come up to the designated bilge pump outlet, which will then lead water straight down into the pump and hull. So I probably better lead the bilge pump outlet someplace higher, over the deck level (a sailor figure working with a hose comes to mind).
I can then use the lower hole either as a second cooling water outlet (no problem with that being flushed over occasionally) or as a decoy.





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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #78 on: May 02, 2017, 07:53:35 PM »

Could I ask how you arrived at selecting those steam engines for motive power?

Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #79 on: May 02, 2017, 08:28:04 PM »

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steam up

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #80 on: May 02, 2017, 08:48:33 PM »

Interesting can't wait for the maiden voyage

ballastanksian

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #81 on: May 03, 2017, 10:41:35 PM »

Using the Sailor with hose idea will be attractive and a novel idea.
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #82 on: May 04, 2017, 06:35:52 AM »

Interesting can't wait for the maiden voyage
Thanks, me too  :-)


Using the Sailor with hose idea will be attractive and a novel idea.


Yes, I think I'll keep this idea in mind. Any ideas where to find some sailor figures, preferably made from plastic? I'm not sure I like the provided white metal figures.


Meanwhile, here's a short video from the first test of the cooling water pump. I have integrated a potentiometer to the pump to regulate the water flow once she's on the pond.
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Tafelspitz

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First Water
« Reply #83 on: May 08, 2017, 03:20:55 PM »

Yesterday my Imara saw her first dip in the tub for a leak test and ballast evaluation. After putting everything into the hull, I determined that:
1. No leaks (good job with the filler and epoxy, obviously)
2. I will need an additional 4-5 kg of ballast to get her down to the waterline. Finally I can put some of my spare gold bullions to good use  {-)

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #84 on: May 08, 2017, 03:28:10 PM »

Would love to see the steam plant running in that test tank :-))

Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #85 on: May 08, 2017, 05:54:47 PM »

Yeah, me either... but alas, the steam engine is not yet ready. Before I can install it and bend the tubing for the connections, I need to know the exact location of the funnel. I'm afraid this will take some time still.


But I have a picture of the steam engine with the (now attached) gas regulator valve. Made the connecting tube for it the other day.
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Tafelspitz

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Taming the Tubing, Glueing the Cross Beams
« Reply #86 on: May 14, 2017, 07:16:05 PM »

Now that the innards are almost complete, it's time to wrap up this building phase and go a step further.
After unscrambling and taming the tubing by way of some pieces of pvc tube I'm now ready to mount the crossbeams. Before fitting the stern crossbeam, I will perform another ballast test. After the beams and deck are in place, it will be much harder to fit additional ballast, should there need be. i have now 5 kg of lead pellets for the purpose.
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Tafelspitz

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Led Zeppelin
« Reply #87 on: May 18, 2017, 09:55:41 AM »

Time to wrap up the work on the servo plate. I filled the stern keel section with about 1,5 kg of lead, all the way listening to Led Zeppelin's "Mothership" album  %%


Lead trivia alert:
Did you know that the english words for plumbing and plumber derive from the days of old when the plumbing actually was made out of lead (latin: plumbum)?
As we all know today, this was (and still is) a bad idea as lead is kinda poisonous. This is also why we don't sweeten the wine with lead acetate any more  :-X
Also, did you know that the Mythbusters once built a baloon made entirely from lead and it actually floated? Still not actually a led Zeppelin, but probably as close as it gets  O0


Anyway, the lead in my Imara is safely tucked away under a sheet of glassfibre and polyester resin. I coated/soaked the lead balls with resin first to secure them inside the hull.


After the resin set somewhat, it was time to insert the servo plate for good and glue in the last one of the crossbeams.
Although it will still be possible to move the servo plate somewhat (this is why I mounted it with magnets), it will need some effort and fiddling to do so once the deck is in place. But basically, in case of an electrical emergency, it should - at least in theory- be possible to access most of the stuff that is mounted on it.



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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #88 on: May 18, 2017, 10:01:54 AM »

Your a brave man I always need to adjust the lead once the boat is in the "big" pond rather than the test tub (bath).

Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #89 on: May 18, 2017, 10:10:53 AM »

Bravery has nothing to do with it. It's simply the fact that I won't have access to the stern keel section after the deck is in place.
But there will still be need for adjusment later. I'm gonna need approx. 4-5 kg of ballast in total.
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furball

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #90 on: May 18, 2017, 10:15:49 AM »

Quote
Did you know that the english words for plumbing and plumber derive from the days of old when the plumbing actually was made out of lead (latin: plumbum)?
As we all know today, this was (and still is) a bad idea as lead is kinda poisonous. This is also why we don't sweeten the wine with lead acetate any more   


Up to about 10 years ago when they replaced the pipes with plastic, all our mains water came through lead pipes.


The water company had real fun trying to connect the water meter to it...


Lance
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Korp1010

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #91 on: May 18, 2017, 05:43:46 PM »

Nice build, can I ask where you get the lead shot from? Thanks
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #92 on: May 18, 2017, 08:15:49 PM »

Thank you! The lead shot is from a local store here in Switzerland (which is presumably of little use to you, I'm afraid): http://www.plomben.ch/bleiteile.htm
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All Hands on Deck
« Reply #93 on: June 15, 2017, 08:29:19 PM »

Hello gang  :-)


After a couple of weeks away (been on a vacation in Sweden - among other things, we visited the Vasa museum in Stockholm. That thing would make a great build, if you're into historic model ships, that is. I'm not  ok2  ), it's now all hands on deck again - glueing in the deck after sanding it to shape and filling the pores.

And should I ever get behind the strange behaviour regarding font size in this forum, I buy a round.
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Tafelspitz

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All Hands on Deck, Pt. II
« Reply #94 on: June 19, 2017, 08:14:24 PM »

I must admit that glueing in the aft part of the deck felt a tad scary. From now on, access to the innards is strongly limited and it won't be easy to fix or amend something, should the need arise  :o
Anyway, the deck is now firmly in place and the gap between the deck and bulwarks is all filled up with car body filler. Jeez, that stuff smells evil.


Any advice on how to smoothen the bulwarks above the deck? The manual advises levelling with car body filler and then sanding, but I wonder if there's an easier way? How are you guys doing it?







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Colin Bishop

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #95 on: June 19, 2017, 08:24:20 PM »

I have found the best way to treat the uneven side of the bulwarks is to line them with thin material. My preference is to use 0.5mm birch ply but others have used styrene fixed with thick superglue.

Colin
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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #96 on: June 19, 2017, 08:32:45 PM »

Must admit I have used the bodyfiller method it's messy but effective.

Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #97 on: June 19, 2017, 08:59:39 PM »

The problem with body filler, as I see it, is that that stuff hardens so fast I don't have enough time to neatly scrape it in place all around. I wonder if there's something similar with a slightly longer workability time.
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #98 on: June 19, 2017, 09:23:22 PM »

Body filler takes a lot of effort to smooth down to a level surrface. I have used the lining method on two boats and it is much, much easier. Plus it gives a better flat finish.

Colin
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #99 on: June 20, 2017, 06:14:38 AM »

OK, thanks, Colin, I will consider the lining method. Sounds like a good alternative, although I can't just see how this works at the bow and stern section where the bulwarks are considerably bent in three dimensions.


BTW, Colin, in your Imara build review from back when you wrote something along the line "I simply gave it two coats of resin which had a similar effect" (quote from top of my head). Do you remember and if so, could you elaborate a bit on that?
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