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Author Topic: Iron on banding  (Read 534 times)

flyte

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Iron on banding
« on: March 09, 2017, 03:38:13 PM »

Hi everyone, straight to the point, has anyone considered using "iron on" edging/banding to simulate planking ? I've used it many times in the past for small projects with great results. My local DIY shop keeps a good supply at very good prices (around 3 to cover the deck of a 2' boat) It's real wood in just about any species you can think of, it's 0.6mm thick and comes in 3 sizes, 22mm-50mm. Its very simple to use, just lay it on and iron it and it will take any stain varnish or other finish.
Obviously it would have to be laid over existing or new wood as it has no strength, but the effect is excellent. I tried it today with some scrap pieces I had, cut into 10mm strips and glued onto plywood. I used beech and marked the edges to simulate caulking, it really does look the business ! Also, it bends and shapes and cuts very easy.

So what do you think guys ? has anyone tried it ? can you see any problems ?

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Netleyned

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Re: Iron on banding
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2017, 03:46:02 PM »

Can you be sure the glue is waterproof?


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flyte

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Re: Iron on banding
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2017, 05:06:03 PM »

Hmmmmm, I'm not sure, though I made a router table and edged it once, the table has stood in a damp outside shed for years and still looks fine. I was thinking that once its in place and treated/sealed/varnished it would be ok.Do you think it would cause problems even after being treated ?

I did find similar edging that needs to be glued so maybe that's a better bet.

 I know it sounds like a bit of a cheat to do this but I'm really impressed with how it looks, the finish is nice and smooth, no sanding needed, and the range of wood types is extensive.
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unbuiltnautilus

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Re: Iron on banding
« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2017, 06:47:31 PM »

I don't think the adhesive is a fully waterproof one, but then neither is PVA and people build models with that. It is all down to the protection you apply to the exposed edges and the timber itself. I think if it is suitably coated with thinned, then pure varnish, two to four coats deep, it should be fine....let us know if it all falls off though :}
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flyte

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Re: Iron on banding
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2017, 07:35:07 PM »

If it all falls off you will be first to know  {-)

Just been reading and the glue used is the "hot melt" type, I suppose that's why you melt it with an iron !!!! damn.....I can be dumb at times ! anyhow, it's pretty much waterproof and when you think about it they use it on kitchen worktops which constantly get wet. But like unbuiltnautilus said, the important thing is how you protect it, if you used waterproof glue on your hull then coated it with peanut butter it might taste ok but it wouldn't  stay afloat for long.
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nemesis

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Re: Iron on banding
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2017, 02:28:24 PM »

Its is not necessarily the top that lets the water affect the deck, after all it is easy to seal. It is the underneath that causes the damage. Dampness inside the hull , absorbed by the sub deck causing the bond between deck and veneer to go. You get blebs and bubbles. My experience from sailing my boats in all kinds of weather. IMHO. nemesis 
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flyte

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Re: Iron on banding
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2017, 04:56:32 PM »

Hi nemesis, point taken, I had to ask about banding as it seemed such an easy solution and in such a range of nice woods ready to finish. I'm always looking for an easy way  %)

What I have found might be interesting though, I knew you could get "unglued" banding but didn't look into it till now, apparently you can get it up to 3mm thick and in various widths, here's one supplier, but I cant find a price list........   http://www.davidclouting.co.uk/real-wood-veneer-edge-banding/

My Son is a joiner and used to do a lot of shopfitting and real wood flooring, he might have more of an idea than me. He'll be home for the weekend so I'll have a word.
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