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Author Topic: MMM Portgarth build  (Read 111837 times)

Paul2407

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #100 on: March 28, 2017, 01:42:32 PM »

Aye 100% that's what matters, and it's all part of modelling although you expect it to be straighter than that, very nice build so far though and I will be keeping my eyes on this one maybe for my next build  :-))
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #101 on: March 28, 2017, 02:52:42 PM »

iPhone 7 plus home screen  8)



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tugnut

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #102 on: March 28, 2017, 08:06:38 PM »

Hi Andy you have done a good job on them i hope to fit my ones on tomorrow plus all the electrical stuff.
Keep pictures coming O0
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #103 on: March 28, 2017, 08:27:21 PM »

Thank you, I'm looking forward to your update too  :-))


Second fitted, both could do with shimming down a washer thickness each (steal from work)  %%
I might do my full running instal now, just waiting on an esc for bowthruster from component shop
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #104 on: March 28, 2017, 08:30:24 PM »

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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #105 on: March 28, 2017, 08:41:13 PM »


My component shelf lent itself nicely to aligning the korts :-)) fortuitous.


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captain bligh

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #106 on: March 28, 2017, 10:15:51 PM »

A friend bought the Lady Woos and lost the will to live after a bit  {:-{ nearly ended up in the wheelie bin a couple of times !
Mainly because of poor templates and in his WORDS  poor back up service . I've never dealt with MMM but always fancied
the Brackengarth myself  {:-{ .But on the other hand must have hundreds of happy customers to be going as long as they have !!!!
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captain bligh

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #107 on: March 28, 2017, 10:18:47 PM »

Also agree with T33cno not a lover of plastering P38 everywhere if it fits nice no need to lag filler everywhere  :-)) :-))
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #108 on: March 29, 2017, 07:12:52 AM »

Thanks for your posts
Firstly I'm just reporting my findings as I go warts and all but not intending to belittle MMM. They provide a valuable service as a whole and many people have bought multiple models.  :-))


I've decided not to proceed yet with the running gear as to tank test it would mean fitting the stern tube extensions. These are now much more difficult to remove and if you slip you risk knocking your Korts off !! there's no room for error.
The previous threaded design was IMHO better but more expensive to produce.
So I'll continue with the hull to the point that it is fully primed and laquered below the waterline then I can fit the Korts permanently
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #109 on: March 31, 2017, 06:54:07 PM »


Back on the job
Opened all the openings today and flatted all the gel coat ready for final primer before marking the waterline and lacquering. I sanded with a block initially to level out as much as possibly and finished with a medium grade red sponge thingy bob.
I also modified the stand so it is below the waterline otherwise I'd struggle when I come to mark it.


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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #110 on: March 31, 2017, 07:02:01 PM »



I've come up with a space saving storage idea too today.
Plumbing waste pipe

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Paul2407

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #111 on: March 31, 2017, 07:27:56 PM »

You've just improved on my idea  ok2 I've got mine some old postage tubes but I have to say yours are better, but if I had those I would probably be temped to use them for other things  O0 but you only have to ask if you want to nick an idea  {-)

Hull's looking great  :-))   
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #112 on: March 31, 2017, 07:31:55 PM »

Thanks Paul  8)


Now can any of those experienced! advise me of the best way to support the deck, is there a better option than that explained by MMM ?

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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #113 on: March 31, 2017, 09:24:33 PM »

I've just sorted out the undulating bulwarks  :-))
Meet my new toy
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #114 on: March 31, 2017, 10:55:30 PM »

Paxolin is so versatile  :-))
I love this part
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captain bligh

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #115 on: April 01, 2017, 12:08:11 AM »

I made up some deck beams for a friend once.I moulded two fibreglass U channels stuck them together with Gravicol which is a polyester bonding paste to form an i beam.Once all cured cut them to length and fibreglased them into the tug then used Gravicol once again to bond down the fibreglass deck.Now that is a strong deck !!! :-))
Advantage I have I work fibreglass so a lot easier for me,but tugs need to be strong  O0 O0
Enjoying your photos
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chipchase

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #116 on: April 01, 2017, 09:34:01 AM »

Thanks Paul  8)


Now can any of those experienced! advise me of the best way to support the deck, is there a better option than that explained by MMM ?


     Hi donít know what method mmm suggested but this is the way I do my deck frames,
 I apply 1mm plastic card around bulwarks using Z-Poxy I go for 5min setting time (messy but strong) I find this gives a good foundation to fit 10mm square frame work around bulwark using the same adhesive, I tend to use the 15min setting for the frame work. I have used this method on all of my builds it works for me plus you have a good finish on your bulwarks. Sorry a havenít a better photo showing the frame work, this is my Maltby with the frame work in place and the deck is solid.
 
Brian


 

T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #117 on: April 01, 2017, 11:32:20 AM »

Thanks for the very informative replies, food for thought.
Brian I have come to realise you are very much a GURU of tug building. I've just spent an hour adding some fantastic pictures of your work to my album for reference. Your metal crafting is fantastic too  8)
Not one of your close up detailed shots but I know it is extremely desirable  :-))


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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #118 on: April 01, 2017, 12:00:28 PM »

I'm going to try the plasticard method :-))
Would I fit the card so it extends below the deck washports? seems logical.


Re:- what MMM recommend..........yes P38 again  {:-{
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chipchase

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #119 on: April 01, 2017, 01:01:05 PM »

I'm going to try the plasticard method :-))
Would I fit the card so it extends below the deck washports? seems logical.


Re:- what MMM recommend..........yes P38 again  {:-{


Yes Andy I take the plasticard about 20mm below the deck washports, I forgot to mention after fitting the frame for the deck i run a small amount of filler under the frame, this really supports the deck  :-))

chipchase

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #120 on: April 01, 2017, 01:08:03 PM »

Thanks for the very informative replies, food for thought.
Brian I have come to realise you are very much a GURU of tug building. I've just spent an hour adding some fantastic pictures of your work to my album for reference. Your metal crafting is fantastic too  8)
Not one of your close up detailed shots but I know it is extremely desirable  :-))



cheers Andy if i can be of any help  during your build just let me know

T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #121 on: April 01, 2017, 01:27:53 PM »

I've just spent £40 at cross gates model shop, don't it add up ? I bet these builds knock on the door of a grand  %%
Thanks again I'm not afraid to ask for help  :-))
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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #122 on: April 01, 2017, 06:10:19 PM »

Here we go. Plasticard virgin alert  :police:


Dry fit pics in case I'm doing it wrong? do I need to abrade?
Looks like it will be difficult getting P38 up the back UNLESS I trim off the excess after fitting the deck supports?



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T33cno

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #123 on: April 01, 2017, 08:49:57 PM »


When in doubt reading the instructions usually works {-)


Abrade all surfaces. Apply to both surfaces! So far done well with gauging the quantity, three pieces in place and barely used any. So initially it looks expensive but it goes a long way  :-)) 


I should buy shares in stipple brushes! I bought 12 and I think I'll use them all

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ballastanksian

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Re: MMM Portgarth build
« Reply #124 on: April 01, 2017, 09:49:16 PM »

P38 is unlikelyto stick to Styrene but abraided like you have, it should hold the stuff you pug behind well enough letting the epoxy do the sticking.

Styrene is like any material, misuse it and it will let you down. Try and keep finger grease etc off the plastic when glueing as then the bond will be better and remember that thin styrene can soften and distort if using plastic weld or styrene glue, but it can be used to make curves and rings laminated around a former.

A scalpel will cut styrene up to around 1.5mm after which I reccomend a Stanley knife. Snap the thicker styrene carefully and dress the edges with a sanding block/ file, blade run along it until square. Annoyingly there seem to be two types of styrene possibly made by different companies. One has a tendency to break unevenly when snapped. This is a bluer colour white, while the yellower white styrene is easier to use but has wonky edges that have to be dressed before you can measure and cut accuratly.
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