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[wetverno]

Hi guys

         I wonder if anyone would like to share their experience on working with Styrofaom hulls.  I have been Building the Ron Rees Rhonda tug as featured in "Model Boats" and am finding it a real challenge.  Making a hot wire cutter was a real boon but the bonding and lycra tights coating business is  really messy. Is it really necessary to coat it with the most expensive floor varnish on the market and is it actually going to stand up to any wear and tear down at the pond ? Also how the dickens do you get the skin to stay in place down inside the deep bilges when the varnish goes on ?   Maybe these questions are linked but I would welcome some sound opinions, also why yacht varnish is considered unsuitable .   Many thanks polystyrene cadet !

[Brian60]

I assume you are referring to Future floor polish (or whatever its name has been changed to) its used extensively in the plastic model world to seal layers of paint before going over with camo patterns or decals, its really raved about and held in high regard by that community.

Turning to your problem. I'm not sure it would work if you are building a model to sail on water. As its a floor sealer to make wooden floors shine with a high gloss, but dissolveable by cleaning solution so that it can be re applied, I don't think it would be waterproof enough for submersion in water.  Best bet would be to look it up in google and find out its properties with regards water.

[wetverno]

Hello Brian thanks for your prompt answer.

  However I am referring to the Ronseal Floor Varnish reccomended for this job in conjunction with a couple of pairs of ladies tights. It is an acrylic modified polyurethane and pretty tough after its cured on the stretched lycra.  Half a dozen coats are suggested before the primer and the paint go on.  At around £40 per miniimum of 2.5 litres it is pricey and there are cheaper ones around but are they any good ?

[John W E]

Hi there

I have just read the article in Model Boats magazine for the tug build - and - Ron, in the article, suggests there are several alternatives to using Ronseal floor varnish.   It seems Ron prefers that.    I think you can purchase Ronseal from any DIY outlet (even maybe on a Sunday   )  I think that is one of the reasons he uses it.

If you are not happy using Ronseal - several of us have used a product from Deluxe Materials  'Eze-Kote'  and it is a water based resin.  It does dry very hard and it is very durable - plus side of it is - there is no smell and you can wash the brushes out with water after use.   Also, if you look at the article again - you will see he 'pins' the tights on the inside to hold them in place, then he applies his choice of coating.   

Also, when it is all dry he applies a plywood deck over the top to seal all the edges in.

Hope this is of some help.
https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/82-eze-kote-5060243900746.html

John

[wetverno]

Thanks for the tip on Ezi coat John,

            Concerning the pinning, even with XL tights and drawing pins in the wooden floor, the darn stuff fails to bond or cure across the lower internal walls and base. I actually have some of the old fashioned Cascamite stuff that he mentions and I am wondering about using that, probably incompatible with the nylons !  I'll try Ezi- coat.    Rich