Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[MrP1986]

Well, saved from the local tip. I rescused her, brought her home and have begun restoring the Caldercraft Northlight puffer.
This post is as much for others interest as it is for me to ask questions when I get stuck, as this is my first attempt at a model boat.


Here are some pictures of when I first got her and another hull (which turned out to be the tug Sun XXI) and after stripping her fittings off. Poor girl was in a dreadful state.

[derekwarner]

Well MrP .......I think you have had a very lucky day at the tip 

Firstly the Northlight......a possible suggestion is to full strip all of the paint work [water based green?] don't be afraid.......am sure a Member will suggest a suitable chemical cleaner

From there, lets see what you have ......

The Sun XX1 should be a separate plan............

Derek

[Corposant]

Hi Mr P,

This has the the promise of a fascinating "re-build" log! Please post lots of pictures. 

The original builder's deviations from the plan are intriguing - perhaps based on personal experience of a puffer. We'll never know!

Congratulations on rescuing her!

Regards,
               Mike

[MrP1986]

Hello again!


That picture was taken a little while ago, so let's fast forward a bit to how she looks now. I have been busy with wire wool, a lot of meths and a bradawl. The latter item being employed to carefully work off the paint from around each molded rivet, one by one (a long and painful task).

Having looked in to puffers in more detail, it looks like her previous owner had modified her to look like one of the later diesel conversions. My plan is to restore her to her original design, but with some modifications, such as an open wheelhouse, more rivet detail, etc.
Sadly, nearly all of the wood on her is beyond saving, so I plan to build new decks and an engine room from scratch by using the old parts as templates. One part that does puzzle me though is how to do the edging at the top of the hull and around the stern. If anyone can advise on this, I would be most grateful.

[Corposant]

Painstaking work! Have you tried using white spirit and/or meths to soften the paint (neither of which will affect the hull)?

The conventional arrangement is for the stern decking to be flush with the sides of the hull and have railings mounted with stanchions. The kit comes with iron wire and white metal stanchions. I used brass wire. If starting again I would abandon the white metal stanchions and buy brass ones.

Two strips of 4 x 2mm grooved obechi are provided for the capping rail. (It claims to be obechi but I have my doubts!) You would obviously benefit from a copy of the instruction booklet and a plan. Jotika could probably supply these - but might be relatively expensive. (In my experience they are very helpful.)

There are quite a number of Northlight (and other puffer) builds on the forum where you can glean information and look at pictures.

Keep us posted!

Mike

[MrP1986]

White spirit didn't do a lot but meths, with a lot of elbow grease, has worked wonders.


Rebuilding and fitting the decks is going to be the biggest challenge for me. Never done anything like it before. I want to use a slightly thicker wood for them and add in some thicker structural supports.
As for the white metal parts, I HATE working with white metal. Anything that can be replaced with brass will be 

[jarvo]

Be careful about the top weight, puffers are notorious for being top heavy, more ballast, more weight to carry


Mark

[MrP1986]

Today has involved sticking down some plasticard to the inside of the hull, so that the holes made by her previous owner can be filled in. Not sure what would be best to use, so open to suggestions.

[nemesis]

fill with car body filler, then reinforce on the inside with resin and tissue. nemesis

[Footski]

fill with car body filler, then reinforce on the inside with resin and tissue. nemesis

Exactly what I would do...

[MrP1986]

Cheers guys, I shall pick up some body filler in the week.


I have also replaced the plasticard with some wood strip, as this can both back the holes and support the deck when fitted.

[ballastanksian]

Welcome to the forum Mr P. This will be an interesting restoration project. I like Puffers.

[MrP1986]

Evening all,


Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced motor that would give a realistic speed to this vessel? If geared, what ratio should I be looking at to achieve a reasonably low, canal boat like, speed?
Also, what bits will I need to link it to the propshaft?


Cheers!

[Tiny69]

I would recommend a MFA 950D motor gearbox with 6:1 ratio.  It has a 6mm shaft so you could use a huco/dyco type universal coupling with a 6mm insert at one end.  You will need to find out what size shaft you have to match the other end.  I use Mtronik Marine Viper speed controls either a 10A or 15A version to control it.  I have used this combination in a number of models and it works well giving a scale speed with plently of in reserve.

Here is a video of my model VIC 32 to give you an idea of speed.  https://youtu.be/bUWUTUnrXkY

[tugboyben]

Morning MrP


This motor would work well in your model with prop up to 50mm direct drive 


http://www.componentshop.co.uk/mabuchi-555-dc-motor-mounting-bracket.html


As for the coupling i use this type


http://www.modelboatbits.com/MICROFLEX-COUPLINGS


Jason

[BarryM]

If a full size puffer went at that speed Macphail would have been exhausted after an hour. 
BM

[MrP1986]

I would recommend a MFA 950D motor gearbox with 6:1 ratio.  It has a 6mm shaft so you could use a huco/dyco type universal coupling with a 6mm insert at one end.  You will need to find out what size shaft you have to match the other end.  I use Mtronik Marine Viper speed controls either a 10A or 15A version to control it.  I have used this combination in a number of models and it works well giving a scale speed with plently of in reserve.

Here is a video of my model VIC 32 to give you an idea of speed.  https://youtu.be/bUWUTUnrXkY

What prop do you use for that motor Tiny, Left or Right hand?

[Buccaneer]

I go along with tugboyben. I use the Mabuchi 555 motor on several boats, along with an Action P80 ESC. Plenty of Torque and no noisy gearbox. My Mountfleet Puffer has one fitted, along with a 65 mm 4 bladed LH Prop. You would probably need something like a 40-45 mm prop. I use a LH Prop as this is always screwing the prop onto the shaft if it gets fouled. All the bits are available from Cornwall Models. www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk , along with some pretty good service.

The great thing about Puffers is that no two models are quite alike, probably a bit like real life, so a bit of scope for imagination.

John

[Martin (Admin)]

Also, if possible, soft mount the motor.... the whole hull is a very good drum / echo chamber!

[Drydock2017]

This is the set up I ran in mine when I built it a decaperm motor 40mm brass prop twin lead acid batteries to run the foggy unit and sound unit and lights and a 5000mah stick pack just to run motor and radio etc I had 4 hours of run time and the battery still had juice in it as for noise me personally I didn't have any problems even just running it with out the sound unit sounded fine but one thing I will say even with all the extras in mine it still needed more weight to get it to sit on the water line lol 😂

[MrP1986]

Beautiful model there Drydock! Love how you've captured the grime of a working vessel 

[missyd]

Just love the grime and weathering!!!! 

[Drydock2017]

Thanks guys I am currently building a trawler looking at weathering that as well, mrp1986 if there's any help I can offer or advice with yours just ask loved building and painting mine would love to do another one

[ballastanksian]

She's filthy! I love it.

[MrP1986]

Had some fresh parts arrive through the post today from Cornwall Model Boats, so should hopefully have a proper update before too long. Just waiting on some 3.6mm ply to arrive so that I can begin to rebuild the decks. Sadly B&Q don't stock it and won't order it unless you want more than £100's worth ( ), so I have had to order it online.


Having decided that I want to make her look a little different from the kit, I'm going to rebuild her to an early design with the lower cabin and the wheel at the rear. I may or may not add an additional mast and sail to her.