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Author Topic: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )  (Read 4091 times)

Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running equipment
« Reply #125 on: August 03, 2017, 12:34:27 PM »

So a was under the impression that the battery had to be a 6s or 2 x3s??
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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running equipment
« Reply #126 on: August 03, 2017, 01:02:18 PM »

Yes sorry linked wrong one,linked two more for you that should work.
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running equipment
« Reply #127 on: August 03, 2017, 01:04:58 PM »

Cheers Martin, but both of them are out of stock, for some reason they won't post lipo abroad 
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric)
« Reply #128 on: August 03, 2017, 01:24:32 PM »




Hi Martin this battery is available in the UK if 2 of these ran in series would they be suitable?


https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-6000mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-pack.html
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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running equipment
« Reply #129 on: August 03, 2017, 03:14:47 PM »

Cheers Martin, but both of them are out of stock, for some reason they won't post lipo abroad
They were available in the UK and in stock when i looked ,they sold out quick lol .
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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric)
« Reply #130 on: August 03, 2017, 03:19:16 PM »

Yes it would work but the one you linked is heavier this ones  a bit lighter thats why i linked the compact series,this ones in stock.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-compact-6200mah-3s-40c-lipo-pack.html?wrh_pdp=1
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric)
« Reply #131 on: August 03, 2017, 03:24:27 PM »

So 2 of them required, they be ok to run 4082-1450kv turnigy xk motor



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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric)
« Reply #132 on: August 03, 2017, 03:41:36 PM »

So 2 of them required, they be ok to run 4082-1450kv turnigy xk motor

Yup
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #133 on: August 04, 2017, 11:00:49 AM »

Hi Martin with regards to the battery coding and the discharge rate will 25c be ok with a burst of 50c. I've been trying to work it out the calculation but not getting it 


Grant
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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #134 on: August 04, 2017, 12:55:07 PM »

Hi Martin with regards to the battery coding and the discharge rate will 25c be ok with a burst of 50c. I've been trying to work it out the calculation but not getting it 


Grant
Personally id stick with something above 30c the ones i linked were 40 c,boats are under a constant load due to the prop having to push all that water trust me it makes a big difference when compaired to running cars planes etc so the biggest c rating you can afford is always a good idea .
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #135 on: August 04, 2017, 01:03:50 PM »

Cheers Martin, I did think that bug just wanted to the check.
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #136 on: August 09, 2017, 01:50:46 PM »

HI Martin, finishing the bottom of the hull would spray colour first then cover with clear epoxy or the other way around ??
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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #137 on: August 10, 2017, 03:14:38 PM »

Seal with epoxy first then paint,then the paint needs laquering to protect it,you can buy good 2 k laquer in rattle cans now that works well .But let the paint dry and harden for a few days before laquering ..
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #138 on: August 10, 2017, 03:29:27 PM »

HI Martin  you say seal with epoxy first which I'm doing the spray and allow to dry. Would a clear epoxy not be ok in stead of lacquer? I was trying to fine some dye or additive to put in my clear epoxy to colour it do you have any you can recommend.
Grant
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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #139 on: August 10, 2017, 11:00:29 PM »

You can colour epoxy resin but its thick compared to paint and you will never get a good finish like you will with paint .
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #140 on: August 11, 2017, 11:10:01 AM »

Good morning Martin, I'm trying to decide whether to install a flood chamber or not how many times is it likely to flip over and is fitting the flood chamber a  100% success of it turning back over. I know that Jan is in favour of the flood  ?
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martno1fan

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #141 on: August 11, 2017, 01:33:09 PM »

Down to personal choice at the end of the day,if you dont install one how will you retrieve it ? for me i use a tennis ball and a fishing rod my lake has 4 sides so its not an issue some lakes arent so easy,i also have an inflatable raft if i ever need it.
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pompebled

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #142 on: August 13, 2017, 10:18:30 PM »

I'm trying to decide whether to install a flood chamber or not how many times is it likely to flip over and is fitting the flood chamber a  100% success of it turning back over. I know that Jan is in favour of the flood  ?
Hi Grant,

How often your boat is likely to flip, depends on how powerfull you're going to make it, how fast it'll run and in which conditions you're going to run it.
If you've seen the video of me running my Arowana in the canal, you can see I start on calm water.
As the run progresses, 'racewater' starts to form.
I even manage to flip the boat in these conditions..., granted, this is mainly due to poor handling on my part, being distracted by the camera on my cap, but still.

Often I am asked by an onlooker if he (or she) can have a go.
Depending on how fast the boat is I'm running at that time, the answers is usually no, if the person in question has never tried to steer a fast electric.
If he, or she, has ran boats before and there's room on the water to allow mishaps, I sometimes hand over the transmitter.
The careful ones tend to run partial throttle too much, heating up both ESC and motor, so I have to push them to run flat out on the straights, the more bold ones usually flip the boat at the first turn due to lack of experience.
This has happened to me on several occasions, both on rivers and ponds; on a river, having a working floodchamber is critical, if you don't want to have to swim after your boat, once it's upside down...
On a pond, a flipped boat without a floodchamber is a bit easier to retreive.

Having a haphazard working floodchamber isn't an option; it is extra work to build it and it has to work 100% after every flip, as long as the boat isn't damaged in the tumble and the battery doesn't get dislodged (something to consider in every fast electric).

The floodchamber in every boat I've build, work. Period. Otherwise it's a waste of time and effort.

Big(ish) hulls like the Wasabi 900 tend to be quite stable runners, but will flip when pushed both in speed and handling.
The more time I spend running a boat, the less it'll flip, because you learn to read it's behaviour and reactions to your input.
Not flipping during a race is more important than having the fastest boat of the pack (and ending up upside down without a floodchamber...).

Regards, Jan.
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #143 on: August 14, 2017, 09:04:21 AM »

Decided..... It's having a flood chamber. How far down the boat should it end at frame 5 or as long as possible and how far should it encroach towards the middle. I would imagine it's easier to include before the top of the boat is glued on. I have got 2 of those hrb batteries 3s to run in series, should these ly on the centre line or equal either side ?
Did you enjoy your vacation
Grant
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pompebled

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #144 on: August 14, 2017, 10:03:03 PM »

Hi Grant,

Here's a link to a Wasabi, reduced to 650 mm:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1112784-Wasabi-600/page2

As you can see the floodchamber is large and long.
Stopping it at bulkhead nr 5 will be too small for the 900 mm version...

A guideline to determen where the inner wall should be, is to offset the drivetrain (motor, shaft and stinger/strut) to the right by 8-10 mm and mark that position in the hull.
See if the 3S packs will fit upright in the hull against the floodchamber wall, left of the center line, the wall should be at least 40 - 50 mm high, preferably more.

With a single pack (two behind eachother) the floodchamber wall can be very far towards the center line, mark that position in the hull too.

Now calculate the volume you'll have with the floodchamber stopping at bulkhead 5, at nr 4 and all the way forward, like in the pictures in the link.
The internal volume should be at least 2,5 L, preferably (a lot) more, the more flotation the floodchamber' content will annialate, the less weight (lead) you'll need at the utmost left rear of the hull to get a working floodchamber.

As I mentioned before, a hull with a floodchamber has the weight concentrated left of the center line, having a pack on each side of the motor will not allow the floodchamber to work as advertised.

Once you know the volume of the different sizes floodchamber, you can determen the position of the motor and the choice of drive line; wiredrive, with a long solid shaft (with a slight bend if desired), or a flexshaft, with the option to position the motor further back in the hull.

Again, first calculate how large the floodchamber can be.

Regards, Jan.
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Martin (Admin)

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #145 on: August 15, 2017, 12:48:23 AM »



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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #146 on: August 15, 2017, 04:34:04 AM »

I've roughly measured what volume I would have stopping at frame 5 which would be 2.7l
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #147 on: August 15, 2017, 09:02:20 AM »

With regards to the water cooling system I saw the photo you had put on Jan of your water pickup comparing it to the rudder pickups which is better?
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Gaci4

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #148 on: August 15, 2017, 09:17:09 AM »

Found these to run down the top left hand side, cut them in flush for the flood chamber??
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pompebled

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Re: Wasabi 900e running gear ( Fast electric )
« Reply #149 on: August 15, 2017, 09:53:29 AM »

I've roughly measured what volume I would have stopping at frame 5 which would be 2.7l
Hi Grant,

Judging by the pictures of Cornells 650 cm version, that may, or may not be sufficient.
How far does the floodchamber wall protrude into the boat with your calculations?

Reason I ask, is that most boats with a floodchamber (which stops at 'frame 5') flip back over the stern for the biggest part, often aided with an extension at the transom.
The Wasabi has a flattened rear end, leaving little room for such an extension.
As you can see, Cornell took the trouble of altering the exit of the floodchamber.

A floodchamber extending all the way forward often has issues filling up completely when the boat is upside down, due to the large remaining buoyancy of a 900mm hull.
A tube to let out the trapped air won't work in this case, as the front (nose) section doesn't get submerged...

I'd move the floodchamber end one frame forward, giving you about 3L.
Adding lead to the far left rear corner will make the floodchamber work.

With regards to the water cooling system I saw the photo you had put on Jan of your water pickup comparing it to the rudder pickups which is better?
My pressureless intake/outlet system has no drag to speak of.
A wedge rudder alone, without a water inlet, has more drag due to it's shape, than the knife blade rudder I'm using, the water inlet adds to that drag.

The 'buckets' on Cornells boat have even more drag...

It's not a matter of having as much flow as possible through your cooling lines, some boats look like speeding fountains with a huge amount of water traveling through the cooling system.
Not only does this generate a lot of drag, the water barely gets the opportunity to absorb heat from the ESC and cooling jacket, so it's not being effective at all.

When you choose the right components and use them within their limits, a steady drizzle through the cooling lines is sufficient to keep the heat down.
My pressureless system provides more than a steady drizzle, as I tested on one boat that has just the inlet in the bottom and the outlet in the side.

The aluminium itself and the construction needed to screw them onto, adds weight above the waterline, raising the CoG, which doesn't help the running attitude at speed.

Regards, Jan.
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