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Author Topic: Fine tuning a D10  (Read 1869 times)

jpdenver

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #25 on: September 14, 2017, 04:27:02 AM »

Hello all -

I spent the day re-assembling and studying the linkages of the parts in the slide valves.
What I discovered was that my fudging had caused the top of the slide valve "post"
(the drawing is out in the shop and I am too tired to go get the correct part name)
to pull out of the top hole, thus letting the slide wobble around, and then the incoming
gas escaped.

See the Pic.

The solution was to fiddle - again - I needed to "lengthen" the overall combination of parts
so that the the eccentric movement was correctly controlling the slide, and also insert the
end back into the proper hole.  To do this I unscrewed the various pieces one or two revolutions to
stretch the length and allow the end to stay in the hole.

When I finished the re-assembly, and ran it on air, the exhaust "puffed" just like she should.

I'll run her on steam again tomorrow.

Regards,
Jim



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IanJ

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #26 on: September 14, 2017, 03:07:25 PM »

Following this thread with interest. Can clearly see how utilising a grub screw instead of relying on a threaded valve rod would make valve timing a lot easier to perform. I am still hoping to build my 'Marcher' as the piston valve version. I note that the piston as a screwdriver slot in the top to aid with the timing adjustment. Also, one for George, could graphite string be fitted to a suitable size grove, that is that much smaller than that needed for an 'o' ring solve the seal issue?


Ian
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pendlesteam

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #27 on: September 14, 2017, 06:36:00 PM »

Hi

As someone has already said, go for the scruffy graphite yarn and wrap it tightly - there should be no elasticity in the yarn. The photos of the teflon 'rings' save many words and if overlapped correctly also work very well.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #28 on: September 15, 2017, 12:56:04 AM »

From an industrial perspective...and there is absolutely no reason not to adopt the same orientation or engineering principal for model work, is when making a split piston seal to adopt the Z cut approach <*<

This when installed on and over to the groove a one piece piston, is a sealing element that will be pressure energised to seal in both extension and retraction

The example here appears to be a woven Teflon square section braid......

Derek

[PS...some 50 years ago as an apprentice I remember using this Z cut approach for 50" ID leather V packing's over a large diameter wooden former, then let them soak in Neetsfoot oil for a month prior to the staggered installation of a new set of gland seal packing's to a 95/5 fluid vertical extruder press ....the continuous coil of preformed leather packing was of a diameter being taller than me O0

The real trick was to calculate {a 2 + b 2 = c 2} and mark out the distance between the two vertical lines that when cut to form the Z , would provide the packing with the actual 50" ID]
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jpdenver

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #29 on: September 15, 2017, 07:45:42 PM »

To All,

When I pulled the heads after a single run on steam I noticed a little
surface rust particles. 

This tells me how important lubrication is with cast iron especially.

Raphael suggested a hole in the head to allow for squirting in a little oil for preservation.
I think this is a good idea.

So I seek an opinion of the forum:     

Which form of plug,
Photo 1 - a nice little knurled knob with fiber washer?,   or
Photo 2 - a small brass screw?

Not that I will take your advice  %)

But I am curious as to what it might be.

Thanks,
Jim







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pendlesteam

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #30 on: September 15, 2017, 07:58:31 PM »

Some people fit a small drain cock to the cylinder head (as opposed to twin drain cocks) to allow condensate to be evacuated at start up and to allow oil to be input prior to the start and end of a run (as used in early full size engines). Fitting such a device would look much better and be 'authentic'. And unless you are accustomed to machining them just buy a pair, it took me weeks to get the knack of machining them so they dont leak.
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rhavrane

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #31 on: September 15, 2017, 08:17:53 PM »

Bonjour James,
My last D10:



My Cote d'Emeraude one:



My Jan one :
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pendlesteam

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #32 on: September 16, 2017, 12:04:23 PM »

Hi
Do you have any more photos of the D10 in the boat, and the boat? It looks realy good and I am looking for a design to showcase my boilers and this might be it?

Regards


Nigel
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rhavrane

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #33 on: September 16, 2017, 04:41:27 PM »

Bonjour Nigel,
I hope these videos will help you :
JAN : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utYZJDJPBVg
CŰte d'Emeraude : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSOSj89BY_M
Ulysse 2 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSOSj89BY_M
The cousin Moulay-Idris (Reeves Warrior MK3) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SLqSuZjE94
And the little brother (DN15) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi5eNgz0AEg
Open hull:
Marco's launch : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaZ293bphLg
Pascal's launch  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwwgy0qGKoA


Pictures in dedicated albums, plese find the link in my signature.


Based on my experience, the Stuart D10 is a powerful machine and huge steam consumer, even running gently at 1-2 bars and I appreciate the additional water pump which allows a smaller boiler.
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pendlesteam

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #34 on: September 16, 2017, 08:44:04 PM »

Thank you Raphael, and thank you so much for your pictures.

I tested my range of boilers on the D10 last week and was stunned to find that the smallest boiler I produce which is only 2.5" diameter with a tiny 22mm flue was powerful enough to run the motor. It is of course way too small to run it for very long or with any great upmh but run it it did. I then tested the 5" twin flue boiler and this ran the motor constantly whilst maintaining maximum boiler pressure so raising enough steam will not be an issue. All of the other boilers I make ran the motor with no problem so I just have to choose which boiler will look the best - any thoughts on this? I will also be running an engine powered water pump and a water pre-heater coil with a super-heater.

Regards

Nigel
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rhavrane

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #35 on: September 16, 2017, 09:08:19 PM »

Bonjour Nigel,
We have not been introduced and, checking "Pendlesteam" on the Net, I discover that you are a manufacturer. This is good news and I would be happy to find a way to deal with you and make your products known in France for example.
Besides this, I have seen your boilers and, as you know it I think, most of steam users have horizontal boilers, so I would suggest you a challenge, build a vertical "mushroom like" boiler with smoke pipes, please see what I mean on this video at 45" :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3J0AsrzwFpI
With an appropriate ceramic silent burner and a water feed pump, no need to have a huge one and you will be the king of the pond  :-))
And, as already said, a D10 needs nothing (15 psi) to be efficient : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkbGPp5QIno
Please note that I couple my D10 with 120 mm 4 blades propelles, thanks to its torque, that also saves steam and autonomy..
Totally apart from that, where are your whistles, mandatory accessory with the gas regulators and the RC safety gas valves to my opinion  ok2  ?
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steamboatmodel

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #36 on: September 17, 2017, 03:56:32 PM »


Hi Nigel,
A very impressive line of products. With the smaller boiler and the D10 would any of them keep up it they had a feed pump?
Does your 2.5" boiler have cross tubes in the 22mm flue ?
Regards,
Gerald.
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jpdenver

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #37 on: September 17, 2017, 06:09:34 PM »

Nigel,
(and Raphael)

So I am not complaining about the change in topic on MY thread,  and it is still a valid "sub-topic"
but I will at least wrap up the fine-tuning part of this thread by saying I think we have discussed a
lot ways to fine-tune the D10.  I am going to tear mine down and deal with a few stripped bolt-holes
before I rebuild it for use in a hull.

It is one thing run it for a couple of minutes, and another to run it for an hour.  I need to make sure that it does not
work something loose and bind up when it is out on a pond.

As to your question about putting it in a hull.

Obviously, an open hull gives the best view of the steam plant.   As to commercial kit/hulls, the Krick Borkum gives a lot of space.
As to some of the other Steam Launch types.  See my MH&B Topaz build log from earlier this year.

However, you might thing of picking up a hull specifically to use as a test platform.  That is what my "Greyhounds Revenge" is -
I created an open - removable platform and can mount various experiments on it. 

It was built on a Lady Margaret Hull from Kingston Mouldings.  And is completely free-form.
The removable platform gives me a lot of open space to add concepts to. Yet still looks pretty good on the water,
even if it is not historically based on reality.

The Boiler is from Mike Abbott at Maccsteam.  it holds about a liter. 

The pics below show the hull without the D10 plus a view of the D10 (partially disassembled) sitting approximately
where it will be mounted - once I remove the bottom casting and mount it on rails to lower it down for coupling.

Feel free to continue to use this thread to discuss this - we all benefit from tossing ideas around.

Regards to all -
Jim Pope
Denver,CO
USA

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pendlesteam

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #38 on: September 17, 2017, 08:07:15 PM »

Thank you for the pictures Tim...and sorry for hijacking this most interesting thread.

All the best

Nigel
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pendlesteam

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #39 on: September 17, 2017, 08:13:46 PM »

Dear Geralde

Thank you for your kind words. All of my boilers have cross tubes in them, all carefully configured to offer the most amount of heat absorption whilst not inhibiting the through flow of hot gasses. I have not fitted a feed pump to the small 2.5" boiler but if it were mated to the corresponding size engine there is no reason why it wouldnt cope. All of the other boilers are routinely connected to feed pumps and all without issue.

Regards

Nigel
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steamboatmodel

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #40 on: September 17, 2017, 11:38:16 PM »


Thank you Nigel,
Jim your boiler and engine look very good in the boat, with so many (including some of mine) the boiler and engine are oversized, yours looks like a real boat.
Gerald.
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jpdenver

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #41 on: September 21, 2017, 02:19:50 AM »

Thanks Gerald,

I finished up the plumbing, adding some insulation.

A little more timing to adjust.

Then maybe on a pond before winter. The leaves are turning and
the nights are getting colder.


Regards,
Jim
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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #42 on: September 21, 2017, 03:07:00 AM »


I do like the blue on the D10, I now know what colour to do mine in.
Gerald.
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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #43 on: September 21, 2017, 09:01:22 PM »

Hi Jim.


You will certainly have plenty of power with the D10 installed.
I enclose 2- pics of the D10 in my steam tug with the operating lever shown.
As the locking nut has to be removed to link up to a servo I used a small swivel joint that I acquired years ago which I think is for Aero use which you can see on the 3/16" dia rod.
I would advise that you use a steel geared servo which I used and I  think it was a 15kg pull one, the reason being that the standard servo would not stop the reversing levers to stop vibrating when the engine was running as you have to dispense with the hand lever and lock nut supplied.  I linked the servo to the new lever on the cross shaft  by a 1/16" dia brass rod and now with the new servo there is no movement when running.


Just thought that I would let you know my findings, the swivel connector is show on the second pic.


George.


 
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JimG

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #44 on: September 22, 2017, 12:49:13 PM »

Your swivel joint is commonly used  on model aircraft especially the Chinese made ARTFs. They go by various names but here is an example
 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/linkage-stopper-m3x2xl11-2mm-10pcs-set.html
(I used the Hobbyking example as it was easy to find) They come in several sizes depending on the pushrod diameter.
If you are using one of these I would recommend the use of threadlock on all screws as they are known to loosen off with vibration.

Jim
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jpdenver

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #45 on: September 23, 2017, 03:28:11 AM »

So I stripped the D10 partially down,
created a "piston wrench" (see pics)

Then I followed George's advice and
used locktite Red and Blue  to keep the
piston from unscrewing.

They had unscrewed and the piston jammed to the head.

So here is what I hope is the result of the final tuning.
Although the video seems to be jerky, the engine
was actually running very smooth.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2uZhTYmQAI

When I get it into the hull, with all the linkages, I will post that
too.

Regards,
Jim
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jpdenver

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #46 on: October 07, 2017, 02:01:55 AM »

Hello again.
Finally got back to finishing up the reverse linkage.
Found a Metal-geared Servo, 9KG pull.Took some pieces of brass angle and machined a bracket.Found a HEAVY-DUTY linkage for the reverse-gear shafton the engine, and used a metal one for the servo end too.
Here is a video on how she ran.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUp3emHNxtk&feature=em-upload_owner

Then I also did some "stress-testing" of the assembly, not that I would
advocate slamming it back and forth, but you always need to seeif your plant can stand up to a little calculated abuse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2P01m-tbXl4

So, this kinda wraps my tuning of the D10. 
Time to put the boats in dry-dock for the winter, we had our first snow last weekend.More snow coming on Monday.
Thank you everyone for hints and helps.
See you next build/project/deep hole/ or whatever.
Sail well, keep the keel-side down.
Regards,Jim PopeDenver, COUSA

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rhavrane

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #47 on: October 07, 2017, 09:16:38 AM »

Bonjour James,
[/size]I have greatly appreciated your videos, they give me an objective for my last D10. On my other ones, I use 3 kg pull standard servos.
[/size]I have not been able,to read the pressure gauge, under which pressure did you realize your tests ?
[/size]And you have a last job to do now before the navigation, tune the whistle  ok2
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IanJ

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #48 on: October 07, 2017, 01:51:19 PM »

Hi Jim,


Found your thread very interesting and great videos. You have created a lovely boat and very impressive steam plant that you should be very proud of. Look forward to more posts.


Regards


Ian
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jpdenver

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Re: Fine tuning a D10
« Reply #49 on: October 10, 2017, 01:07:53 AM »

Ian and Raphael,

Thanks for the comments.

As to working pressure, I use a Bix Regulator set for 40lbs/sq in.

It snowed today, so I am not sure when she will be back in the water.

When she is, I'll shoot some more video.  I will also work on the
feed tank system and begin to experiment on that.

Regards to all,

Jim
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