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Author Topic: soldering  (Read 1078 times)

steveo-73

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soldering
« on: October 13, 2017, 03:14:58 PM »

Hi fellow boaters,


I haven't been on here for a long time due to family commitments. But now I have the chance again I have put myself back into RC Boating again!!


I'm still a amateur/novice when it comes to this and I have 2 electric boats, one being a Proboat Impulse 31 V2 the other a Proboat Miss Geico 29. My question to you all is one I asked about 3 years ago and apologies too anybody who kindly replied. We had a baby and I never got back to this until now lol.


I live in Peterborough and I would like to change my connectors both on my Lipo Batteries and My boats to EC5 connectors. At the moment my Batteries are EC3s, One Boat is EC3 and the Other is Deans but as I would like to run 6s I've been told that EC5 would be a safer option. So i'm in need of some help with soldering??


I can confess that I am not the best at DIY or Electrical Work so I would really appreciate if their was anybody local to me who would like to help me with my issue. I'm sure I can make it worth your while....


Great to be back


Steve
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Ianlind

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Re: soldering
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2017, 06:42:22 AM »

G'day steve,


Have you looked at XT60 Connectors? Easy to solder to and as fitted to everything I have in both cars and boats and batteries.


Ian.
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Paul2407

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Re: soldering
« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2017, 09:39:09 AM »

Like Ianlind says try XT60 connectors, don't be temped with deans connectors I'm quite competant at soldering but those little things are terrible
with any soldering you must use flux on each componant being soldered and get enough heat through the connector as that is the key to any soldering

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Inertia

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Re: soldering
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2017, 10:29:08 AM »

Sorry to disagree but I wouldn't recommend using a separate flux for electrical/electronic soldering. Buy a 60/40 tin/lead solder with integral rosin core flux like this stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073ZJW3DQ?psc=1
The trouble with a separate flux is that it's messy; you may apply too much and then have to wash off the excess, and you might just get hold of something that's acidic - that spells doom for any electrical joint.
There are a lot of videos on You Tube showing how to make electrical solder joints - interestingly Americans always seem to say "sodder".
Here's an extract from an article in 'Model Boats' magazine:
Soldering
This is the single most terrifying aspect to fitting out model boats with electrics, if my correspondence is anything to judge by. You wouldn’t believe the lengths to which some folk will go to avoid soldering, yet it’s very easy if you follow the rules and use the right tools and materials.
For general soldering use a 15 to 25 Watt mains voltage electric iron. Fancy little gas-powered torches are barely useful for any electrical soldering except field repairs, but they are excellent for browning crème brûlée! I don’t use one for anything electrical myself. For heavy-duty cable, i.e. anything thicker than 18AWG, a 40 to 80 Watt iron is better, especially if it has a decent-sized flat tip fitted (4.2mm or wider). I have used a soldering gun which heats up very quickly, but is too hot and cumbersome to use for most electrical work. Solder wire comes in two sizes; 18SWG and 22SWG. I prefer to use the thinner type for all joints, as you can feed it into a heated joint without the risk of flooding the joint with excess solder. Choose solder with a lead content, as it’s easier to use than lead-free, and a resin flux core. NEVER use an acidic flux for electrical soldering. The other major rules are:
1)
Always make sure that the work is totally clean and degreased before you try to solder it.

2)
Wherever possible, hold the two pieces to be joined together with non-ferrous clamps or similar before applying the iron.

3)
Never carry solder to the joint on the iron tip.

4)
Wipe away excess solder from the tip of the iron with a damp sponge regularly and never take a file to the tip of a soldering iron or you’ll destroy any special coating it may have.

5)
Always scrub off any excess flux from the joint afterwards. Methylated Spirits or Isopropyl Alcohol are OK, but a proprietary aerosol circuit board cleaner such as Warton’s Total Clean 200 is best.

6)
A good solder joint should be clean and shiny-bright. If it looks grey and dull then the chances are it’s what we call a 'dry joint' and will neither conduct electricity properly nor physically hold together for very long. If in any doubt remake the joint.

So now you have no excuses.
How do I know? I've been assembling a range of model boat electronics units since 2007 and I would guess that's something like half a million soldered joints.
O - and I use Deans connectors but there's nothing wrong with X60's. I'd probably go over to them if I didn't have so many batteries, switches and chargers with the Deans fitted.

DM
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steveo-73

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Re: soldering
« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2017, 10:38:51 AM »

Thanks for all the comments guys...the only reason I was going to use ec5 was just what I've been told about 5mm bullets connectors being the way to go but it's not definite as I have one boat as dean's the other ec3 so changing to x60s wouldn't be a problem.


Having the space and time trying to keep a 3.5 year old out of the way is another matter. Not having a garage don't help so that's really the only reason oh yeah and I've never tried I was asking if someone local new or could offer me a soldering service temporarily until I get something sorted.


Thanks again.
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Paul2407

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Re: soldering
« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2017, 11:49:15 AM »

Always used separate solder/flux for last 35 years and not had any issues with a bad joint, I suppose it's what you are used to but I stick with what I know and can only comment on that  :-)) but maybe I will try flux core solder in the future
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Del Boy

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Re: soldering
« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2017, 07:14:35 PM »

Hi Inertia, fascinating article thank you. I am terrible at soldering but must crack it before I can move on! I have ordered the solder you suggested so hoping that might improve my results. One question if I may, any tips for soldering capacitors to motor cases? I have managed in the end but its not pretty so there has to be a better way. I degreased with Isopropyl and cleaned it with 600 wet and dry but miserable adherence, any thoughts? My iron is a 25 watt Weller. Cheers  Derek
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ballastanksian

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Re: soldering
« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2017, 07:26:28 PM »

If the case is aluminium then soldering will be difficult as may soldering to a galvanised surface due to both metals having a very fast oxidisation rate that puts a non solderable surface up despite having polished it seconds beforehand  >:-o
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Ianlind

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Re: soldering
« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2017, 12:16:47 AM »

Hi Derek,
My thoughts are that you need more heat for a start, as that 25 watt iron will cool very quickly when it comes in contact with a large metal surface area. Maybe try a 60 watt iron with a decent sized tip and it should improve your soldering success rate.
Big heat, short duration, is often the way to go.
I use an 80 watt iron for most of my work, including soldering whitemetal model parts, and if you are quick, good result, If you are a bit slow, molten parts! Not a problem for me, as they then go back in the melting pot and I make some new bits!
Ian.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: soldering
« Reply #9 on: October 23, 2017, 10:24:17 AM »


Big heat, short duration, is often the way to go.

Not "often"  - ALWAYS
I have found that it helps to have a film of liquid solder on the tip because that aids rapid heat transfer.  Not a drippy blob because that is dangerous, just a shiny film.  It gives the maximum surface area in contact for fastest heat transfer, and gives the solder that you poke at it the best chance to melt and flow into the join so that you can get the tip away from the metal before the heat conducts into the nearby plastic.
Afterthought - it helps if the solder is clean and shiny as well - elderly solder might well have a layer of oxide or something on it which doesn't help.  Extra flux might help with that, but then you need to get rid of the extra flux residue.
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grasshopper

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Re: soldering
« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2017, 03:54:56 PM »

Steveo,
Sent you a reply.....the message waiting icon isn't that obvious!


Will be glad to help but am away from this weekend until mid November.
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Martin (Admin)

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Re: soldering
« Reply #11 on: October 25, 2017, 06:50:17 PM »


Hey Steve,

You all sorted now or do you want to meetup sometime?
   :-)
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Del Boy

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Re: soldering
« Reply #12 on: October 25, 2017, 09:05:57 PM »


Right thanks fellas for all the ideas and thoughts, all really appreciated as this has become my Achilles heel!
Ballastanksian, I never thought of that, maybe the case is Ali, its just a Mabuchi 555 have to have a think about how I check that one.
Ianlind, now that's a real possibility. Thinking about it, the 25 watt I have used before has only been used for extending servo leads etc. and I never had issues with that but I guess the motor is like a giant heat sink. Either way 80 watt iron on order so will try that out on arrival.
Malcolmfrary, thanks for the tip, just as soon as my new iron arrives I will have a practise with this technique.
Steveo, where is the message icon sir???
To all of you thanks again, I am determined to crack this so will keep you posted!
Derek
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Del Boy

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Re: soldering
« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2017, 09:13:59 AM »


OK guys, totally happy now (well almost, read on!). So armed with the fresh Lead Solder, cleaning pad and tip wire pot, technique as recommended etc. I have at last produced joints that I am happy with and actually conduct the sparky stuff so very, very pleased with all the advice, thank you all so much, cracked it! Ian, I bought a Faithfull 80 Watt iron to try the larger stuff after reading your post. I am sure it will work but ......... when switching on the other day, some heat, big bang, scared the whatsit out of me and now nothing! New fuse etc. retried, nothing. Good news is the seller just gave me a credit and I think what I will do is save up and buy one of the Weller ones that I saw at IMBS last weekend when I need that level. So thanks to all on Mayhem who helped, that's this skill sorted, on with the build!
Derek  :-))
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Ianlind

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Re: soldering
« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2017, 10:58:28 AM »

G'day Derek,
Sorry to hear about the blown up iron, but I've have and have used a number of the cheap 60w variable Chinese irons and have found them to be quite good so far. And some come with a variety of different tip types. Can't beat them for under 10 pound sterling!
I've also got some seriously heavy old electric irons that get used from time to time, but mostly use the Scope 80 Watt 3 volt iron which I have had for over 40 years, Just needs the occasional carbon element replaced, and the odd tip.

Really pleased you have cracked the dark art of soldering, and it's not that difficult once you learn a few clues.

Ian.
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robbob

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Re: soldering
« Reply #15 on: November 17, 2017, 01:06:29 PM »

I have a number of soldering irons including temperature controlled for delicate work but I also needed one with a bit of 'grunt' for some heavy brass soldering so I got this one from Maplin.


https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-100w-mains-soldering-iron-n00dp


I'm very pleased with it so far and my only gripe is the small on/off switch on the handle that is all to easy to flick off when using it, it's less that 20 quid too !


Robbob.
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Del Boy

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Re: soldering
« Reply #16 on: November 17, 2017, 05:36:45 PM »

Right, going to Maplins this weekend anyway, will grab one thanks Robbob!
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