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Author Topic: Totnes Castle 1884  (Read 9248 times)

Brian60

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #75 on: May 24, 2018, 09:47:25 AM »

I'll be the first one to stand up and say I know nothing about steam. However I do question the method of filling Hammer. What happens if you try to remove the safety valve to fill the boiler and there is still pressure inside? I know when I undo the drain screw on my air compressor, the outrush of air from the tank blows crud and water droplets out on to my hand. The thought of similar happening with boiling water left in the boiler doesn't bear thinking about.

hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #76 on: May 24, 2018, 02:57:01 PM »

Always leave the steam valve open, to empty the separator tank.  Then have to wait for the safety valve to cool befor it can be removed. If someone loosened the valve wile under pressure, steam would start to escape slightly, as soon as the rubber washer unseated. Giving a warning. Max 25psi. Good to hear from you Brian.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #77 on: May 29, 2018, 10:38:15 PM »

Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1"+ 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3"+ 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome. 
I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the bearings. This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.   
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #78 on: June 07, 2018, 10:34:12 PM »

Started the engine pics later. Also started on paddle wheels, they have been on me mind for some time. I have made wheels of brass & aluminium in the past. Cut from sheet this is a waste & very boreing. (deliberate spelling ) Found the answer in my stores. A roll of something that looks like brass, 3/16 + 1/16th but it is hard & like a spring. It also melts very near to silver solder temperature, So soft solder now. The pics should explain my hope for method. Wooden formers are the key. one for inner ring another for outer. Joining the strip around then drilling holes at the spokes, pin in first hole to stop movement wile drilling rest. So far so good, we will see.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #79 on: June 08, 2018, 01:28:54 AM »

Always watching from afar RGY :-)) ........[am in Adelaide again for a month]

Phosphor Bronze is commonly reshaped from billet into flat bar by initially hot rolling, then as the thickness reduces by cold rolling to sheet which is then sheared into width [again by the rolling process]

This cold rolling produces the toughness, together with the layered structure removes the shear and substitutes or provides the springiness

With a melting point of ~~905.... to ~~940 degrees C fits your melting experiment and the characteristics you mention

[Spring manufacturers use this material for their feed stock]

Should be a strong structure [with little flex] when complete ....Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #80 on: June 08, 2018, 10:02:01 PM »

Always good to hear from you Derek my friend. Thank you for the information now I know. The first side of the wheel ready  for soldering. This inside wheel I will be making flat well almost. The outer will be dished to stop lateral movement. Marking the spokes where they need to bend. ( red marks on board .) Bending in vice & by hand, aligning to pattern.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #81 on: June 09, 2018, 01:54:21 AM »

Just trying to visuilise RGY....are the jaws on your lathe 3 jaw chuck small enough to grip the OD of the hub as shown?.....if they were it would make clean up of the assumed 1/4" wheel hub bore after soldering so much easier

With the set/offset of pins, I am assuming this will be for the inner hub wheel side closest to the hull allowing for the hull pedestal bearing

Having said this, we have seen both variations on the them with the dished hub outboard shortening the paddleshaft :whistle

Always watching on  ;).....Derek 

PS....I didn't get to post on May the 6th, however am a little concerned with the boiler burner getting sufficient oxygen
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #82 on: June 09, 2018, 07:49:59 AM »

As always Derek nice to hear from you. Plenty of air holes will be left. Cleaning by hand will be safer.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #83 on: June 12, 2018, 09:55:08 AM »

May be someone may want to make paddles using this method. If you do & you have a lathe should be no problems. First turn wooden blanks & mark centre & number of spokes required. Rap strip brass around the former cut & join to a tight fit. it is important as this will keep them the same size. Align the drill accurately to the spokes. Drill one & pin it with a short piece of spoke material, so the strip doesn't move wile drilling rest. The centre hub was divided in the lathe.
On assemble three spokes in my case immediately aligned the rings, that is if the holes are right. If not fettling is the order of the day. I soft soldered mine as the structure is inherently strong. Note soldered away from the marks on blanks, to preserve them.   
The dishing can be seen on the finished upright wheel. This was achieved by a thick washer under the hub, & clamping the outer ring down on to the former. I did try bending the spokes before fitting. But had trouble as the rings didn't align automatically. Clean up by hand. Only Three more to make.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #84 on: June 13, 2018, 09:35:56 AM »

Having used spring bronze, (Thanks Derek) I wish now I had used brass & silver soldered the joints. I will have to epoxy the floats in place now. Don't want them to melt the rest.
Can't say I altered the plan because there isn't one. But I dished the inner wheel more than the outer in the end.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #85 on: June 13, 2018, 11:49:18 AM »

Always more than one way to skin the cat  O0...but using epoxy as a composite build sequence sounds a great idea RGY    <*<.....will you use wooden floats?.... Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #86 on: June 14, 2018, 09:39:27 AM »

The answer to question Derek, tin plate floats. I believe the original had iron.
I have started on the engine. Made the cylinders with end caps. Drilled & tuned off centre by packing out one jaw on the chuck. I will now mill the port face, ( black mark & arrow.) increasing the width. The idea is to decrease the amount of metal in the engine. Heat up quicker less condensation. I will be posting the rest of engine build in steam r&d, if you want to follow.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #87 on: June 14, 2018, 10:21:38 AM »

My only comment RGY  >>:-( is to please keep all of the engine build here in this thread with the boiler & hull 

Must remember, we may be upside down.......but it would help many readers this side of the lower line 
 
BTW...what did you have for lunch at the Pub? :P

Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #88 on: June 14, 2018, 08:11:50 PM »

Ok Derek I will post in both blogs, in steam until engine complete. Although I didnít post all the boiler build here. As for lunch it was all liquid I am afraid Somerset cider. The best!,
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #89 on: June 16, 2018, 09:58:13 AM »

The floats will be fitted so. the tabs will give the epoxy plenty to grip.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #90 on: June 16, 2018, 11:18:01 AM »

The wheels are looking good RGY.......it appears that you have introduced a new bush into the wheel hub...would you consider a metric stainless steel tapered pin ..say in the lower 3 > 4 diameter size range as the locking & driving key between the wheel hub & the shaft?......

The ISO Metric 1:100 pin concept appears to make a lot more functional sense over the Imperial 1:96 & the lost or  <*< missing drill sizes in between to suit

Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #91 on: June 16, 2018, 04:10:50 PM »

Sorry Derek far to technical for me. If you are referring to the bit sticking out in the centre that is part of the hub. Obvious not shown before it is on the inside. It will rest on the centre of the ball bearing, fixed to the shaft by a grub screw this will stop lateral movement, as the other wheel will be the same obviously. May need a washer or two for adjustment.
I have added wood to the outer edge of the deck, (the scuppers) it projects out from the hull, forming the knuckle. That's what I call the half round strip around the hull, another needed below the sponsons, this one just stuck on. There is a raised section over the rudder arm, with a grating. Small gratings can be a problem, here is a solution, not my idea but a good one. A plastic  hit & miss air vent, D.I.Y. store. I cut it with a band saw, as the blade cools down, were a gig saw melts it to back again. 
Milled the frames from square bar for the engine. Drilled the pivot hole & hole to take the bearing. Second photo shows the layout. The gearing is lower than me previous models at 5.7 to 1. I have used 3.5 to 1 before. We will see.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #92 on: June 21, 2018, 03:42:47 PM »

   Posted as requested Derek. I have remade the standard, sadly distorted when silver soldering together got it to hot. Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after. Stainless pivot bar fitted will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank bearing.  Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end. 
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #93 on: June 26, 2018, 09:57:39 AM »

End caps fitted to cylinders. Drilled & tap 10BA. Marked the centre for pivot hole. Not much time in shop, at the pool with grand kids.
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PetrOs

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #94 on: June 27, 2018, 08:43:02 AM »

Great progress on a nice ship! Will be watching!
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #95 on: June 27, 2018, 03:49:03 PM »

A little more done on the engine. Steam ports & pivot holes drilled in cylinders. Oil light bronze bearing ready to fixed. Piston rods ready I will be silver soldering piston blanks in place. Then with the rod in chuck turn the blanks to fit. Chrome crank shaft, pin & web in the picture ready for cutting. The strip of ali with four holes will mark the steam ports in the frame. when the crank is fitted. The small gears fit between the bearing & crank web. As I said before this will give the chance to change ratios if the low is to low.   
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #96 on: June 28, 2018, 05:21:09 PM »

Super glued the blanks for the crank webs together, marked & drilled the holes. Unfortunately came apart braking through large hole. Had to bolt back to finish the shaping. Soldered the gear & pin to the web, used ali stub to centre gear. solder don't stick to aluminium of course.
Marked the steam ports on the frame, using gauge. Will drill later in the mill, a hat pin will find centres.
Bearing pressed into the frame, oil hole drilled in. The final layout of the engine can now be seen. Well half of it.
A lot of fettling & polishing when construction completed.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #97 on: June 28, 2018, 05:53:45 PM »

'a hat pin will find centres' ................ %)

As this engine is being built with those Christian Imperial dimensions........just how do you compensate for Hat Pins nowadays being these Heathen Metric diameters?

Or do you have a special conversion table of Christian to Heathen dimensions ?  {-)

Derek
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Derek Warner

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Brian60

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #98 on: June 28, 2018, 07:09:58 PM »

Simples.


Hat pins are a tad larger diameter than dressmaking pins, but not as large a diameter as drawing/board/thumb pins O0

hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #99 on: June 28, 2018, 08:23:00 PM »

It doesnít matter I am a good guesser. All will be revealed. Ye of little fath.
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