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[Bob K]

At 1/96 scales that would come out at 2.73M, almost 9 feet.
Would still be a huge model, but perhaps more practical to actually build.

[16-21]

With regards to Deans marine
I’ve contacted them several times over the last 3 years
Regarding hood, the answer I get is we will continue to work on the master when time allows.
They are to busy with other projects.
If memory serves they did have a Hood hull and it was stollen years ago.

Regarding Christian at Mtb Hulls
It might be worth contacting him and asking.
At least with his hull it’s already cut in half by him
For transporting/courier.
You could maybe ask for a heavier Grp layup and then do your own type of join using the precut hull.

Hood would come in at 110 inch x 13 inch

Being 1/96 would also open up the option of perhaps using deans marine turrets
and then detail them as much as you would like.

On the subject of Allan pew oz
His 1/72 Hood,
Was scaled up from an Airfix kit.
There was two Hulls produced one for Allan and one for his friend.
He does not produce a Hood kit however he might produce suitable fittings??
Could be expensive though with importing?

[Rob47]

Stewart,
Got the engel motors for HMS Victorious which at 10 foot long needs a bit of ommph.  They are brilliant and very quiet in operation


Bob
I believe Phil aka kiwimedic on another forum used
Buehler motors for his 1/72 Bismarck.
I think they where 4400 Rpm.
So maybe you could use
Bosch car fan motors Similar to these
http://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/Electric-Motors/E-Motors-Brushed/High-Torque-Electric-Motor-EPX-1236-12-36V.html

[bfgstew]

Well I got myself into a proper state over the last month or so fretting over how to build her. I went down the 'mould your own' avenue........far far to expensive and complex for me, so aborted those plans. Back to the drawing board (computer), full length hull........no, far to big, prone to distortion, difficult to store, handle, launch, transport etc etc. So, going down the 2 halves route, plank on frame, glass in and out. This lead me to redraw the plans, again. 75mm between each frame, 9mm ply frames. 18mm ply bulkheads at joint to allow for jointing bolts. Going to use 10mm threaded pipe that is used on lamp fittings, this will go several frames deep into each half, locked onto each frame with washers and locknuts, this will allow an 8mm threaded rod to be passed down each tube and this will bolt on the inside of the opposite end bulkhead of each hull half. Along with lengths of 20mm plastic conduit fitted into the bottom of each frame for as long as possible in each half, these will be bonded in place to allow lengths of 16mm stainless bar to be inserted before each half is bolted together, this should act as both ballast and support for the full hull when joined. Hope you can follow my ramblings, pics will follow when available.
Questions now.
On planking, would it be better to double plank it? What thickness would be best for a beast this size? If doubke planking, does it need sealing after first layer?
Deck thickness is next, there is a slight camber on her deck, albeit 1.8mm, call it 2mm for arguments sake. Thin ply 1.6mm? There will be plenty of support. Or thicker, if so, how thick.
Sorry for so many questions and delays but I want to get this right.

[dreadnought72]

My thoughts:


Your stainless bar is probably unnecessary: once you've built the hull you've made yourself a monocoque 'gutter' which will be extremely unlikely to hog, warp, twist, whatever.
6mm ply is enough for your frames.
No need to double-plank the hull if it's going to be glassed later. I planked my Dreadnought in 3mm balsa (easy to work), glassed within, and added cartridge paper plating before a final soaking with an acrylic resin. It's solid.
Your ply deck sounds about right - give it lots of support - it can be a subdeck to 'proper' deck planking.


Do think long and hard about access now. Can you get to the rudder, motors and couplings? You will need to!


Andy

[bfgstew]

Thanks for your advice Andy. I always think the worse case scenario, makes me go back and start again. Must stay focused on the positive side.
As for access, once I have finished getting the hull lines completed in AutoCad, that will be the next stage, battery placement, motor mounting etc etc.......still a long road to travel.

[derekwarner]

This 10mm threaded pipe you mention [from light fittings] is a metric fine threaded light Carbon Steel tube section.......these are used universally throughout the world and are zinc coated & sometimes yellow phosphated however are never designed for contact with water as the zinc coating  is only a few Micron in depth

In fact, anyone who lives in close proximity to the sea would find internal corrosion by Zinc salt formation within their light fitting  tubes

The only long term solution is to use AISI Grade 316 stainless material.. .....[pretty sure Bob K used this for his two piece hull]

Grade 316 stainless rod spears sliding in close toleranced plastic bushes sounds worthy of consideration.......the design is near limitless....stainless rods with a welded centre washer spigot,  totally removable from each hull 1/2, with the hull halves having glassed in counter bores for the washers??

These whilst permanent fitment, are only for accurate alignment of the hull halves prior to the mechanical clamping by other means ...the weight of the Stainless rods will be negligible

Derek

[bfgstew]

I hear what you are saying regarding the threaded tube Derek and am aware of the corrosion threat. As a length of threaded bar is to pass through these an occasional spray of WD40 or other silicon based lub should stave off any unwanted oxidization.
As for the st/st bars,they are going to be used mainly for ballast and for a 1 meter length of 16mm dia 300 grade = 9lbs, there is room to get nearly 20 meters in the bilges. Not that I need that much, I hope! The lengths will be faced off, centre drilled and tapped to 10mm, then a length of studding inserted in one end and loctited in place, then joined together when assembling boat. Each tube will have a counterbore in the bulkhead for a neoprene 'O' ring along with the threaded rods, plus an outer groove for a neoprene gasket around the edge of the bulkhead. The 2 main joining bulkheads will be matched pairs with 2 female/male spigots secured in them for exact alignment.
Always good to have an experienced eye cast over your work, no matter how good you think you are, you miss things......thanks for the input chaps, much appreciated.

[derekwarner]

Stew.....I was only offering a few thoughts....however 

a. 1000 mm of 16 diameter steel is ~~1.6kg or 3.5 Pounds.......not sure how you calculate ~~ 9 Pounds?
b. Neoprene elastomer in O-ring format was never designed to seal against a thread form

Derek

[Bob K]

Stew:  Just a thought:  My Agincourt is "only" 2.4 m long, far too big for my car.  I used 3 positions of one inch stainless tubing (fixed in each hull half)  with 3 x 900 mm long 7/8" stainless tubes which nicely telescope inside the one inch tubes.  At the lake I slide the tubes into the hull, then lock the two halves together with a toggle latch.

Works very well, with no water ingress whilst sailing.
You will need one tube near to the keel C/L, then two 2/3 the way up the hull.  Make sure the bottom fixed ones are full sealed at the ends.

[bfgstew]

Derek, you are quite correct....1M is 3.5lbs......never trust the internet!
Neoprene O rings will not be sealing against threads, they will be seated in an O ring groove around it, to seal against the opposite face.
Thank you for your input, much appreciated.


BobK.........I keep dipping into your Agincourt build log to pick up tips........as much as it would be easy to copy your idea, I am confident of my idea, so far!!!!!! Never say never, it may all go belly up. I know where to come if it does.......


Thanks again all.

[JimG]

With all the concern about corrosion of steel tubes why not use the method used by large scale model flyers. They use aluminium or carbon tubes as wing joiners in often resin based tubes. They are used in wings which can be 8 foot span or more and in aerobatic models will need to take a high G load so need to be stiff and strong.
Jim

[bfgstew]

A nice idea Jim and did think of it, but the idea of the threaded tube is that it can be locked onto each frame with locknuts to give a solid fix rather than glueing a tube to the frames which when overloaded can  break.
Thanks for the input though.