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[Nordlys]

Hi,
Are there any members with one of these models who can give me any information regarding access to the rudder linkage once the deck has been
fitted? I am in process of building this model and it would seem to me that a modification such as a hatch cover above the rudder area would be
very useful?
N

[Neil]

Hi,
Are there any members with one of these models who can give me any information regarding access to the rudder linkage once the deck has been
fitted? I am in process of building this model and it would seem to me that a modification such as a hatch cover above the rudder area would be
very useful?
N

one of these...………..




i'll take some pics of the access to mine and post on here in a few minutes.

[Neil]

please do excuse the dust..she's been sat a while whilst I debate whether to change her to brushless lol.


as you can see the servo is packed away into the stern.


I made the fixtures at the stern before I fitted the deck so that the servo will just slot into a small fixed box and be retained tightly so as not to move.




I also fitted the tillers and links to the servo and pinned them with  1/32 clevis pins so that they wouldn't come lose...…..then I simply put the deck on...…….no trap doors or hatches at all to keep the lines of the deck clean.


and the rear bench and well  deck floor[split in two] plus the separate engine covers are all removeable.

[Nordlys]

Thanks Neil, I remembered that you had made one from some ealier posts. Would you say tho' that getting access now would be easy enough should you need to make any adjustments?
From your description you have obviously built it and secured all the linkages so as not to come loose and tried it under power before fixing the deck I wonder?


N

[Neil]

I tried the servo first, N and centred it..i made sure it was a good metal geared servo, and then I seated it in the small box that it sits in, with a hole in the bottom of one end so that the lead will feed through...…..I make my servo boxes about 4 mm longer than they need to be so that they go in at an angle so as to be able to feet the cable through......BUT I make them as tight width wise so there is no lateral movement. the box which has a height about 4mm below the normal servo fixing lugs also for ease of getting them out, but in the case of the tender I think I made the height about 10mm lower than the lugs so it would fit in under a fixed deck and just higher than the box top.


I fitted the box into the space where I was going to have the servo and linked the rudders to the servo and made sure that it all worked...…………..but then I disconnected the servo tiller arm from the servo, took the servo out and taped the deck soundly to the hull with masking tape...…….I could then see if I could get the servo in and out once the deck was on...………..mission accomplished....……….far easier to do than any of my classic lifeboats I built...……


it could have been done a different way using bent link arms running under that rear cross beam that you see to a servo laid flat under the well deck floor using a mini servo, but at the time I had a mental block and thought i'd need all that space for batteries.


neil.

[Nordlys]

You've described the fixing at some length for me Neil, thanks, my set up will be identical to the plans dimensions, with the servo upright and central of course.
A question for you - What do you think of a removable cover/hatch 2/3rds the width of the stern rudder compartment?


Would it pose a risk of letting water in despite making it a good fit?
I struggle to see how I could make any adjustments (should I need to) from the gap behind the bench/seat and I always seem to need to make adjustments
to rudder gear on most of my boats?
N

[Neil]

I shied away from putting a hatch in because should I have gone from full ahead o full astern then i'd either have lost the hatch or flooded the bum end of the boat.


however if you want to put one in, then use my method of a flush but watertight hatch.....i.ve just drawn a quick sketch with a cross section across the deck...the piece attached to the deck has a piece of 3mm ply about 5mm deep running around the perimeter of the decl piece with no gaps. The hole left by the deck cut out has a drop running around the hole flush with the edge of the hole by 6mm, and on to the bottom of this drop down frame is glued a flange jutting out by 7mm all round...…..on to the outer edge of this flange is glued an upraised frame 4.5mm high...…...and if done right the deck piece sots into the channel around the hole you have just made.....all you need to do then is apply some Vaseline to both sided of the frame attached to the deck, and you have a totally waterproof hatch that won't wash out...……..I used to use this method on all my large steam trawlers that I used to build which gave access to the forward deck......you can, if you cut the hatch out of the deck carefully, hardly see the join even at close scrutiny.




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[Nordlys]

I really like that design Neil, it may well be the solution for me, the cross section most helpful.


Im just waiting for an order from Steve Tranter to arrive with all the rudder linkages and props then I'll try a prelim assy
and see what access I have.
The flooding aspect remains a worry.
N

[Neil]

that hatch does work well...…..used it on tugs and my trawlers..the hatches on the trawlers big enough to put a 12v 7ahr battery flat through it...……..never had any leaks.....you just have to cut the deck hole larger than you think you need because of the inner flange taking up the 14mm both width and length out of the hole itself.

[Nordlys]

Ok I get that.
I'll put a few pictures up as I get going on this, after I get back from Whitby.
Thanks Neil.
N

[Neil]

Ok I get that.
I'll put a few pictures up as I get going on this, after I get back from Whitby.
Thanks Neil.
N

You are welcome, N.