4 scribbles here – to help complete the build:
• The first one is how I construct lifebelts – first of all we require some 1/64 ply cut in a circle of the same outside diameter that you wish your lifebelt to be. You must then cut 2 circles from the appropriate thickness balsa wood – of the same diameter as you wish your lifebelts to be. The centre of these 2 pieces of balsa wood are removed; giving you a slightly thicker ring than you require for your lifebelt. The next procedure is to glue the balsa wood either side of the 1/64 plywood circle. Please note at this stage you do not cut the centre of the plywood out there is a small hole drilled through the centre; to facilitate the fitting of a nut and bolt to make a mandrel up. This mandrel along with your assembled lifebelt is assembled into the chuck of a drill or, if you are lucky enough, into the chuck of a lathe. The first procedure (as in A) is to square up and true up the outside diameter of the lifebelt with either a file or some sandpaper – as in number scribble A.
The next procedure is to form the actual shape of the lifebelt; as in scribble B. Once we have finished the first side, we remove the assembly from the mandrel, turn it round – refix back on the mandrel and replace into drill/lathe and produce the mirrored shape of the opposite side.
When happy with the shape and the lifebelt is sanded smooth; we leave it on the mandrel and give the lifebelt several coats of sanding sealer; rubbing down lightly between coats.
Whilst it is still on the mandrel you can give it a coating of paint – that is what I did.
When it is dry; remove the centre of the lifebelt; with a sharp scalpel and dress up the inner edge with a fine piece of emery or sand paper. We then finish off painting.
• The second scribble – the Anchor winch: This was made up from balsa wood Plasticard – 2 pieces of old dowel and some brass wire. The first procedure was to mark out the actual side profile of the anchor winch onto the balsa wood of appropriate thickness. (As in number 5 of the scribble). This shape was then cut out; it was then glued to a piece of 1mm thickness Plasticard which was slightly larger than the actual shape of the balsa wood anchor winch profile. This was then trimmed flush with the balsa wood – we repeated the procedure on the opposite side using the same material Plasticard. From 0.5mm I covered the top of the winch as in Number 4 on the scribble. To this I added a small section of Plastic tube which represents the winch handle socket; I then produced from 1.5mm thickness, the base. This is B in the scribble and this was then glued to the bottom of the winch assembly.
I then produced two actual winch drums. Once winch drum which is for taking chain has, what I would call, a crab handle; now this crab handle was made from 15 amp electrical cable brass wire, bent in a semi-circle and soldered to form a curved star shape and this was then glued to the end of the drum. The drum was made, as I say, from a piece of dowel which was machined in the chuck of a drill to the appropriate shape. This was then glued to the side of the anchor winch body.
There was then the rope drum which was produced from the 2nd piece of dowel; machined in a similar manner to the first drum. This is represented as C in the scribble – and this was then glued into position on the opposite side of the anchor winch. The whole assembly was then painted to the desired colour black :) .
• We now produce the search light – which you will see in drawing number 3. This was made from the appropriate diameter plastic tube – of the correct length as in C in the scribble. There were then 2 circles cut of the same diameter as the tube as in A & B. These 2 were glued together and glued on one end of the tube; using Slater’s Mek – and when this assembly had dried – the end was shaped in a dome shape and the internal of the tube was painted silver . The next procedure was to drill 3 holes – two opposite and one at 90° to the two holes in the side. This hole is where the cable for your light bulb passes through. The bulb I used was a clear 6volt grain of wheat bulb – I inserted the bulb first, before I carried on with any more of the build; ensured that it worked and then with a little bit of superglue I secured it in place.
• I then made the lens support ring – which is represented by D in the squirrel. This ring slips over the outside diameter of the searchlight body and it is glued in place so that it overhangs the edge by about 1/16 of an inch. Then, I cut the lens from 1.5mm clear plastic – this then is glued into place and is represented by E on the scribble.
• I then made from brass wire – the ‘ban the bomb’ sign as I like to call it :) ….. This is a Y shape; it is soldered together and then glued on the face of the lens and this is F on the scribble.
• The next procedure is to make the searchlight cradle/bracket. It was all made from brass – 0.5mm strip brass of about 2mm wide which was bent in a U shape with 2 holes drilled in the top; which corresponded with the 2 holes in the side of the search light. This is represented by 3 in the scribble.
• The next procedure is to solder a piece of brass tube of the correct diameter and length to the base of the U support. This is represented by 2 in the scribble.
• We then make the base out of a washer which slips over the brass tube; and soldered into place at the correct distance to suit your model.
• Make the handle out of brass wire – which is number 5 on the scribble, which is glued on the back.
• Last but not least are the two mounting pins – made from 2 brass building pins – the ones we use for planking. The whole assembly is then given a coating of paint of the desired colour – I used grey - then test it to make sure it still works.
• Now for the rigging fittings; these are made from brass tubing; or various lengths and diameters and copper wire. I do not think they really need much explanation as to how they were made; I think the drawing is self-explanatory. A is an actual ‘end of rope’ cable fitting; which allows you to detach rigging from the superstructure or the deck. B is a Warwick and C is just an eye bolt; the plate which the eye goes through is made from Plasticard.
• Now we move on to making the actual numbers; I tried to purchase these, because of the actual size; they are 2inches tall. I wasn’t prepared to have them made or pay an arm and a leg even; so….whilst looking round the hobby shop – I noticed that they do-it-yourself decals – oh I said to myself ‘I will definitely have that’ – ideal for what I need ::) ::) . One problem with it though, which I didn’t notice at the shop – you do require a laser printer so…that plan was scuppered. Back to plan 1 which was to use very thin Plasticard – I drew the numbers out first – carefully cut them out – and then stuck them on a board with double-sided to paint them. Once they were dry, they were superglued to the model in the correct place.
• THIS NOW REALLY COMPLETES THE BUILD OF THIS MODEL APART FROM THE TESTING
• I would like to say a special thanks to one particular person CDS123 (Christian on this Forum) he has supplied me with no end of information for this build – I only hope it comes up to his standards