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Author Topic: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird  (Read 15264 times)

bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #25 on: May 14, 2008, 11:44:39 AM »

 O0 and some more pics
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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #26 on: June 03, 2008, 12:15:36 PM »

hi all

Just a couple of pics to show the progress - I have been busy doing the cabin fittings; the escape hatch in the centre of the cabin also, the skipper's hatch on the wheelhouse.    The hinges are made the same way as I made the hinges for the sick bay doors.

I then progressed to make the air vents/vent cowels - these are made from plasticard which I will show at a later date - I have 4 more of them to make for the engineroom - and to be quite honest the reason I have no photographs is I completely forgot to take the photographs.

You will also notice the cabin roof duckboarding, which are just strips of 1/16 evergreen (plasticard) glued to the cabin roof.  The handrails are just bent copper wire and the uprights are made from  Billings 1/48 rail stanchions which have been cut to size.

You will notice I am now in the process of making the gunners' safety rail which goes around the ball turrets.   This safety rail was supposed to prevent the gunner from shooting up parts of the boat - that is why it looks a weird shape.  You will notice that it is high at the back and this is to prevent the gun from being angled down into the cabin roof; or taking the head of the skipper off  :o I just wonder how many times they shot themselves up  :o >>:-(   Couple of pics to show.....

aye
john e
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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #27 on: June 06, 2008, 05:51:47 PM »

hi there

I have been asked to describe how I make the hatches; the materials I use are - 1/16 ply also 0.5mm thick plasticard - that is for the actual hatch itself and the combings.   I use a variety of thicknesses of brass to produce the hinges.   Normally, I use about 1/16 thick brass, soft soldered.  So, we will begin with the procedure.    Just as a side note, I am going to include pictures and also scribble to help understand.   So the first procedure is to mark the opening position either on the deck or on the superstructure where the hatch is to be.

Now, taking the sizes of the hatch, I normally make it about 0.5mm undersize.   Then when I mark the hatch off BELIEVE ME I DOUBLE CHECK IT IS IN THE CORRECT PLACE  :-X as I have made mistakes in the past where I have marked the hatch on the wrong side of the deck, cut the opening out and then realised.   It makes life difficult to have to fill it in and blend - so make sure the HATCH IS PUT IN THE CORRECT POSITION.

I cut the opening out; keeping the edge as square and as smooth as possible.  When we are happy with that; we take a tracing or a rubbing of the opening onto a scrap piece of paper.   Put this to one side; now the next procedure is to take some 0.5mm thick plasticard; and, then, cut a strip off twice the thickness of your deck - so if your deck is 1/8 inch thick or roughly 4mm, the width of your plasticard should be 8mm - this strip of plasticard now becomes the deck combing and it is glued with superglue on the inside of the opening that we have cut in the deck.  This is represented by 'D' and 'E' in the scribble.

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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #28 on: June 06, 2008, 06:00:20 PM »

here is the scribble ....

so the next part of the procedure is to make the hatch blank or 'B' as it is in the scribble.   To get the size for this hatch blank from the tracing cum rubbing that we took of the opening in the first place.   This is transferred onto a suitable piece of plywood or plasticard (whichever you prefer) I use 1/16 ply.    Then when we have transferred the shape, we cut the shape out and smooth the edges.   This blank, when tried over the opening, should sit on top of the combing that we have put around the opening in the deck.

The next procedure is to cut another strip of plasticard; 4mm wide.  We cut this from 0.5 thick material.   This is then glued around the edge of the blank 'B', being flush with one side of the blank.  This is allowed to dry and dont be tempted to sit it over the top of the hatch, whilst the glue is drying - or hey - you might find it will stick to the combing.   By the way, the piece of plastic which is wrapped around the edge is called 'C' on the scribble.

when the glue has dried on the hatch lid we are making - we glue another piece of plywood on the top of B which actually forms the lid of the hatch.    Now, depending on the hatch you are building, this can slightly overlap B  -  leaving say 1/16 all around the edge or in the case of the hatch I am building is 'flush' with C - or the edge.

This whole assembly is now set aside to dry - if we go back to the opening on the deck, we need to level off the combing.   This is done by placing 2 pieces of material, I use 1/16 thick bits of wood, either side of the hatch and a flat piece of wood with some fine sand paper, glued to one side of it.  This is now passed over the top of the combing, back and forwards to sand at level of the two pieces of timber either side.   You can see the principle in the photograph - i.e. the two bits of timber prevent you from sanding the combing too low.
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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #29 on: June 06, 2008, 06:08:24 PM »

.... and the next procedure is to make the hinges, for this we require several pieces of brass and some small drills.   Small piece of copper wire to make the hinge pin; and, also a couple of planking pins that we use to plank the hulls with - the brass ones.

Our first stage is to cut the actual strap of the hinge and we will call that number 1 on the scribble.  We cut this to the length we require, plus, enough material to allow us to bend a circle on one end.  Then we require the base of the hinge, which is represented by number 2 - again I make this from 1/16 brass - cut the length and width required - .

The next I either manufacture a 'U' shaped piece of brass from some brass shimming or, in my case, I have purchased some 'U'shaped brass.   I cut off the length which is equal to the same width as the base plate.  This then is soft soldered to the base plate - next then there is just the job of drilling the holes as shown in the scribble - one set of holes to take the copper hinge pin; one set of holes in baseplate number 2 for securing it to the deck and one set of holes in the strap to secure it to the actual hatch lid.

Then its just a simple matter of firstly, gluing the hinges in position with superglue onto the deck and also onto the hatch lid.   Then drill through the whole of the hinge strap and the hinge baseplate and using the brass building pins to secure them in place through the pre-drilled holes.

Hope that all makes sense  O0 {-)  back to the build  {-)

aye John
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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #30 on: June 13, 2008, 06:54:15 PM »

Hi all

As promised I have taken a couple of photographs this time.  This is one of the methods I use to produce ‘air ventilators’.   It consists of and this time using 1mm thick Plasticard & 12mm diameter plastic pipe.  The jig for forming the cup or the bowl is a 2-part jig.  0ne, the female is basically a steel sleeve/large washer and the male is also made from steel with a ‘dome’ of the correct diameter and radius cup on the end. 

The hole in the female is roughly 2mm larger than the outside diameter of the dome on the male side.   The steel die as it is known as, was originally manufactured to make copper/brass air ventilators for a previous build.  At this time, instead of using annealed brass I wanted to try my hand at using Plasticard to produce the air ventilators.

If you don’t have the facility of a metal working lathe, you could turn and produce the pieces from wood, in the same way as the gun ball turrets when I made the clear plastic domes.

So, basically, all I did was, warmed a piece of 1mm Plasticard up so that it was very pliable, soft and bent under its own weight.  Placed it over the female die part and then pressed the male part of the die into position forming the cup/bowl for the air ventilator.

Next, when it has cooled, we trim away the excess plastic to produce the correct size cup that we require.   Then we shape one end of the plastic tubing to mate snuggly into the side of the bowl.

When we were happy with the fit, we glued or cemented the two parts together using either Slater’s Mek or a liquid polyglue.    When the glue has dried, I blend in using plastic filler.  Set to one side to completely dry and with varying grades of wet n dry, blend the pipe into the bowl and there we have it.
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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #31 on: June 18, 2008, 03:18:38 PM »



Please post your questions and comments here:
Q & A - 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird 

(Please don't post here, they will be moved.)


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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #32 on: August 20, 2008, 10:58:12 PM »

HI just a bit progress more to follow

awy

john
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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #33 on: September 03, 2008, 08:05:33 PM »

Hi there all

To carry on with the build, the next stage is – making fittings.

What I am going to try and describe is the method I used for constructing the ‘scramble nets’.   Now, there are a lot of commercially available nets on the market – such as the bags which you get fruit in; also those that you get bird nuts in.   None of these I could find though would actually fit the rope spacings…or the size of squares which I required.

I set about producing them myself.   Here is the method I used:

1 Piece of Balsa wood, which was approximately ¼ inch thick by 8 inches long and 3 inches wide; on one face of the Balsa wood, I marked off the spacings for the vertical ropes which in my case were ⅝ of inch spacings.

The next stage of the procedure was to wrap parcel string of the correct thickness and texture to assimilate the rope.   This was wrapped around the Balsa Wood so that it followed the lines on one side and on the back side it crossed diagonal to the next spacing on the front side.    If you have a look at the photographs you will see what I mean.

When I had finished doing the spacings; I tied it off at the back and put a little drop of superglue on.   Next - the rungs were made from Crochet Cotton which I believe to be Double Knit weight (according to the Mrs).

This was weaved through and then tied off on each vertical strand of the parcel string.  Each knot was secured with a little dab of super glue.   

When I had tied off sufficient rungs; it was then time to cut the assembled scrambled next off the Balsa Wood, which I did on the reverse side of the Balsa Wood, leaving sufficient length of string on each vertical thread to be able to form a securing loop – one end loop would be to secure to the deck and the other lop was to be secured to the boarding pole.

When the scramble net had been removed; it was then placed in an aluminium tray like the ones from the takeaway.    On top of this; there was cold tea poured – along with tea bags, coffee granules etc., and the two nets were completely submerged in this liquid for 2-3 days…. The liquid concoction dyes the nets to a khaki colour – when I felt the colour was about right, I removed the nets and dried them out.    Once thoroughly dried, they were attached to the support lugs on the side of the vessel, by creating loops in the tails of the parcel string and binding them.   

Now we move on to the Carley Float; the Carley Float is manufactured from 1/64 plywood and ½ inch thick Balsa Wood.   

First process is:  Mark out the oval shape on the 1/64 plywood – this is (B) in the Scribble; the next stage is to cut out six circles from 1/64 plywood.   This diameter of the circles equal the diameter of the tube of the Carley Float – represented by (A) on the Scribble.   These circles are then cut in half.   One half of the circle goes on top of the Carley Float and the other half is glued directly underneath on the opposite of the 1.64 plywood.

The next stage is to block in (using Balsa Wood) between the half semi circles.  When glued all the ½ inch square Balsa Wood, it is then sanded until we reach the edges of the half semi-circles and this gives us the correct profile for the Carley Floats.  When we have finished sanding, using various grades of sand paper, we then moved on to the next stage which is to make the lattice work which sits in the bottom of the Carley Float plus the paddles and the bits and pieces which I am going to do soon – I will put photographs of these on when I have done them.
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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #34 on: September 03, 2008, 08:10:29 PM »

 O0

Couple more pics    This shows   the A & B

C is the block Balsa glued into place.

You can also see the photograph of the Carley Float at the present time.

aye
john e
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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #35 on: September 19, 2008, 04:23:59 PM »

Hi there

4 scribbles here – to help complete the build:

•   The first one is how I construct lifebelts – first of all we require some 1/64 ply cut in a circle of the same outside diameter that you wish your lifebelt to be.   You must then cut 2 circles from the appropriate thickness balsa wood – of the same diameter as you wish your lifebelts to be.     The centre of these 2 pieces of balsa wood are removed; giving you a slightly thicker ring than you require for your lifebelt.    The next procedure is to glue the balsa wood either side of the 1/64 plywood circle.  Please note at this stage you do not cut the centre of the plywood out there is a small hole drilled through the centre; to facilitate the fitting of a nut and bolt to make a mandrel up.   This mandrel along with your assembled lifebelt is assembled into the chuck of a drill or, if you are lucky enough, into the chuck of a lathe.  The first procedure (as in A) is to square up and true up the outside diameter of the lifebelt with either a file or some sandpaper – as in number scribble A.

The next procedure is to form the actual shape of the lifebelt; as in scribble B.   Once we have finished the first side, we remove the assembly from the mandrel, turn it round – refix back on the mandrel and replace into drill/lathe and produce the mirrored shape of the opposite side.

When happy with the shape and the lifebelt is sanded smooth; we leave it on the mandrel and give the lifebelt several coats of sanding sealer; rubbing down lightly between coats.

Whilst it is still on the mandrel you can give it a coating of paint – that is what I did.   
When it is dry; remove the centre of the lifebelt; with a sharp scalpel and dress up the inner edge with a fine piece of emery or sand paper.   We then finish off painting.


•   The second scribble – the Anchor winch: This was made up from balsa wood Plasticard – 2 pieces of old dowel and some brass wire.   The first procedure was to mark out the actual side profile of the anchor winch onto the balsa wood of appropriate thickness.   (As in number 5 of the scribble).   This shape was then cut out; it was then glued to a piece of 1mm thickness Plasticard which was slightly larger than the actual shape of the balsa wood anchor winch profile.  This was then trimmed flush with the balsa wood – we repeated the procedure on the opposite side using the same material Plasticard.   From 0.5mm I covered the top of the winch as in Number 4 on the scribble.  To this I added a small section of Plastic tube which represents the winch handle socket; I then produced from 1.5mm thickness, the base.   This is B in the scribble and this was then glued to the bottom of the winch assembly.     

I then produced two actual winch drums.   Once winch drum which is for taking chain has, what I would call, a crab handle; now this crab handle was made from 15 amp electrical cable brass wire, bent in a semi-circle and soldered to form a curved star shape and this was then glued to the end of the drum.   The drum was made, as I say, from a piece of dowel which was machined in the chuck of a drill to the appropriate shape.   This was then glued to the side of the anchor winch body.   

There was then the rope drum which was produced from the 2nd piece of dowel; machined in a similar manner to the first drum.   This is represented as C in the scribble – and this was then glued into position on the opposite side of the anchor winch.    The whole assembly was then painted to the desired colour black  :)  .

•   We now produce the search light – which you will see in drawing number 3.   This was made from the appropriate diameter plastic tube – of the correct length as in C in the scribble.   There were then 2 circles cut of the same diameter as the tube as in A & B.   These 2 were glued together and glued on one end of the tube; using Slater’s Mek – and when this assembly had dried – the end was shaped in a dome shape and the internal of the tube was painted silver .   The next procedure was to drill 3 holes – two opposite and one at 90° to the two holes in the side.    This hole is where the cable for your light bulb passes through.   The bulb I used was a clear 6volt grain of wheat bulb – I inserted the bulb first, before I carried on with any more of the build; ensured that it worked and then with a little bit of superglue I secured it in place.

•   I then made the lens support ring – which is represented by D in the squirrel.   This ring slips over the outside diameter of the searchlight body and it is glued in place so that it overhangs the edge by about 1/16 of an inch.    Then, I cut the lens from 1.5mm clear plastic – this then is glued into place and is represented by E on the scribble.

•   I then made from brass wire – the ‘ban the bomb’ sign as I like to call it  :) ….. This is a Y shape; it is soldered together and then glued on the face of the lens and this is F on the scribble.

•    The next procedure is to make the searchlight cradle/bracket.  It was all made from brass – 0.5mm strip brass of about 2mm wide which was bent in a U shape with 2 holes drilled in the top; which corresponded with the 2 holes in the side of the search light.   This is represented by 3 in the scribble.

•   The next procedure is to solder a piece of brass tube of the correct diameter and length to the base of the U support.   This is represented by 2 in the scribble.

•   We then make the base out of a washer which slips over the brass tube; and soldered into place at the correct distance to suit your model.   

•   Make the handle out of brass wire – which is number 5 on the scribble, which is glued on the back. 

•   Last but not least are the two mounting pins – made from 2 brass building pins – the ones we use for planking.   The whole assembly is then given a coating of paint of the desired colour – I used grey - then test it to make sure it still works.

•   Now for the rigging fittings; these are made from brass tubing; or various lengths and diameters and copper wire.  I do not think they really need much explanation as to how they were made; I think the drawing is self-explanatory.  A is an actual ‘end of rope’ cable fitting; which allows you to detach rigging from the superstructure or the deck.   B is a Warwick and C is just an eye bolt; the plate which the eye goes through is made from Plasticard.

•   Now we move on to making the actual numbers; I tried to purchase these, because of the actual size; they are 2inches tall.  I wasn’t prepared to have them made or pay an arm and a leg even; so….whilst looking round the hobby shop – I noticed that they do-it-yourself decals – oh I said to myself ‘I will definitely have that’ – ideal for what I need  ::) ::) .   One problem with it though, which I didn’t notice at the shop – you do require a laser printer so…that plan was scuppered.   Back to plan 1 which was to use very thin Plasticard – I drew the numbers out first – carefully cut them out – and then stuck them on a board with double-sided to paint them.    Once they were dry, they were superglued to the model in the correct place.

•   THIS NOW REALLY COMPLETES THE BUILD OF THIS MODEL APART FROM THE TESTING

•   I would like to say a special thanks to one particular person CDS123 (Christian on this Forum) he has supplied me with no end of information for this build – I only hope it comes up to his standards  O0






   

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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #36 on: September 19, 2008, 04:26:04 PM »

............... and some pics of the 'near enough' finished model  O0 O0

can you spot what I have forgotten to do yet.....

aye
john e
bluebird
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bluebird

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Re: 63 FOOT RAF AIR SEA RESCUE LAUNCH by Bluebird
« Reply #37 on: September 21, 2008, 12:18:58 PM »

hi there one and all

Sea trials this morning  O0  very pleased - she was running on a gel cell - definitely need to go to NiCad's - still she performed well with the weight of the battery.

By with all the props turning the same way, there was a tremendous amount of prop walk and steering was pretty difficult - even with the mixer -
aye
john e

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