Masterclasses > CERVIA Tug Build
Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Martin (Admin):
Please feel free to share your Questions and comments onTUG CERVIA HULL BUILD by Bluebird build in this thread.
( Build thread here: TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD )
banjo:
O0
A copy of my post in thread Smit Nederland build.....
Fitting the bulwarks..
Bluebird fits brass pins as a fixing and guide.
The original Smit kit provided supports with a tongue on the bottom which fitted, like a "blind tennon joint" into the deck. I have some of these. I wondered how difficult it would be to cut the "mortice". I thought 2 small holes close together then "cleaned up" would suffice....
Comments?
O0
John W E:
banjo Hi ya there
My immediate thought is - what is the material your original supports are made from; which you intend to use? The reason I ask this is the hull you are working on is 48 inches long and your hull is a fair size. When the model is finished floating on the lake, and coming alongside, first thing you make a grab for to pull it into the side are the bullwarks :) or, is it just me that does that :D {-) and, if the supports are not strong enough, you find that they snap off.
The other thing is, the idea of drilling two small holes and then cleaning out will work as long as you can keep them fairly neat - when I say neat, I refer to a nice 'push fit' for the tenon. The other thing that springs to mind is; the length of the tenon - it should be long enough to go through the actual thickness of the deck and a good way through the supporting timbers or material under the deck. What I had originally thought of, and this was not for the Cervia build, it was actually for HMS Leeds Castle, (when I did the bulwarks on that model), was to make the pins out of flat brass 1/8 inch wide by 1/16 inch thick and use Plasticard clad on either side, but, leaving sufficient brass at the bottom of the supports sticking out forming a tongue. This is a possible solution, because, this will produce a fairly rigid support.
Hope this rambling garbage of mine is of some help to you O0 O0
aye
john e
bluebird
banjo:
O0
Thank you for your prompt reply.
A bit of history of this Smit build to start with...
I took the deck off the original because the builder hadn't trimmed the hull down to the marks, plus the fact that it all came to pieces quickly when submerged in water! (who knows what glue he had used) I had to remove the bulwarks to get the deck to fit the curve of the newly trimmed hull. I am using the old bits as patterns for the new. The "very nice man" at Cornwall Model Boats was able to source some new bits and pieces from Billings which include the bulwark supports, all laser cut, but not a new deck.
So....I can go with the brass pins, as you used in your Cervia build or I can use the new supports which will involve cutting, wait while I count, 72 mortice holes!! As you see the scope for a "cock up" along the way is immense. I will still have to disguise the pins afterwards?
I really wanted you to say.."do it this way" it will be quicker and better!!
::)
John W E:
Hi there Banjo
If the bullwark supports, provided with the original kit and the spares you have, originally worked well apart from the breakdown of the glue, I cannot see any problems apart from the length of time it will take to complete this. The only advantage really using the brass pin, as I did in the Cervia build, is that you just drill a round hole, the same size as the pin you are using. This will have the same strength, if not be slightly stronger.
So, if it was I, I would go the brass pin way, but, that is just my opinion for what it is worth. I am sure there are 100s who would disagree with me.
But, as FLJ would say, suits you Sir. :D :D
aye
john e
bluebird
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