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Author Topic: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD  (Read 25802 times)

Billyruffian

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #25 on: July 16, 2009, 10:04:33 AM »

Sorry Martin just read the message again - told you I was having a senior moment - I will now take a lie down in a coll dark room until matron arrives with my medication.

Cyril
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furball

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #26 on: July 16, 2009, 12:56:59 PM »

...and that link points to the Whitehills lifeboat build...

 ok2

Lance
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DickyD

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #27 on: July 16, 2009, 01:14:20 PM »

Read Martins post again, he's the one having the senior moment, he's just told you to do what you have done.

Also as Furball says, that is the wrong link anyway. %)
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #28 on: July 16, 2009, 01:54:27 PM »


Sorry, that should read....

Please feel free to ask your questions and make comments here on this thread.

(  Build thread here:    TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD  )
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #29 on: July 16, 2009, 06:54:58 PM »

Hi there Cyril
I have included a couple of photographs of how I secure superstructure to the Cervia hull.   I am sorry I have lost my ‘black/red arrow pointers’ so my fingers will have to do.
You will see on pic 1, where I am pointing at the stern.   This is where the back of the superstructure locks in through a little peg.  Although the peg is not visible; it is on the back of the engine room casing and it goes into the little hatch.   On the front of the superstructure, you will see where I am pointing at 2 brass pins, these are sticking out from the bottom of the superstructure and these serve 2 purposes.  They both locate into brass tubes which have been ‘epoxied’ to the underside of the deck.
In turn one pin is a positive and one pin is connected up to the negative – 6 volt supply.  So, when the 2 pins fix into the brass tubes, they supply the power for the navigation lights and deck lights.
Have a look at pics 2 and 3 to see what I am talking about.
The total set up is secure enough for you to mount a tow hook in the correct position and tow from it.   Hope this is of some help.
Aye
John e
Bluebird
Or is it gribeuval according to wor martin’s link 

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DickyD

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #30 on: July 16, 2009, 06:59:15 PM »

So where's the other photo then or didnt you have time between tea breaks ? {:-{
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Billyruffian

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #31 on: July 17, 2009, 08:10:29 AM »

Thanks John - that helps a lot :-))

I take it that the hatch at the stern is fixed to the deck only and not th engine room casing?

Cyril
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #32 on: November 03, 2009, 01:07:50 PM »

Hi Cyril
hear is how the tow hook is made
The main hook is  made from 1/8 brass cut and filed to shape

then  to the side cheek 1/16 brass is soldered either side,
 
the rope keep is made from bell wire stripped of the plastic insulation then bent in a oval shape and then clipped in to the main body of the hook

hope this helps

aye

john
 
 
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Billyruffian

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #33 on: November 16, 2009, 09:26:33 AM »

Thanks for that John - all made and fixed.

Now I need some help with the rigging.  It's not too clear from the plan and some of your pics get a little distorted when I zzom in.

Being a rigging virgin {-) can you help - in particular how you attache the yardarms to the mast and where your anchor points are on the suerstructure.

Many thanks.

Cyril
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #34 on: November 16, 2009, 07:10:25 PM »

Hi ya there Cyril a squirrel will follow then maybe a scribble  of dat dar rigging on the Cervia .... at the present time the model is sitting in the dining room and I am just too darn lazy to get it from down there to look at the rigging again   I WILL BE BACK.....

OH AYE
john

ps been down there twice and keep forgetting aboot it.....  %% %% %% ..... one of those days
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #35 on: November 17, 2009, 10:51:16 AM »

hi Cyrill i hope this will help you
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Billyruffian

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #36 on: December 15, 2009, 08:29:51 AM »

Thanks John - just what I needed.

Last questions I think and then it's finished :-))

Did you buy or make your lifeboat?  I see Mobile Marine sell some decent lifeboats but what size?  They do 3.5" and 5".

Finally what did you use for the steam trunking for the anchor windlass and capstan? The reason I ask is the the anchor windlass seems to follow the curve of the superstructure.

Thanks John and, if I don't get another chance a very Happy, healthy and peaceful Christmas and New Year.

Cyril
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #37 on: December 20, 2009, 05:41:53 PM »

Hi ya there Cyril

The lifeboat was made from a solid block of Balsa and I got the size from the plan. but, obviously, if you find it easier to purchase one - then just do that.  Sometimes a shop purchased one does look nice and sets the model off.

If you have a look in the Warship section, under the HMS Daring 1930 @ 1:72 scale - I put a bit on there on how to make the lifeboats - if that would be of any help to you.

Dont forget now, you have no excuse - we want a couple of pics of the finished model - doesnt matter what you think your model looks like, you have a done a good deal and tried and succeeded in building a model from a plan.

All the best to you and yours for the season and New Year.
aye
john
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gvandor

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #38 on: March 14, 2010, 10:42:45 PM »

Hy BlueBird

I'm a new member here. I see and I think very nice ships: Cervia and the other ship from You the Frederick Spashett.

I'd like those ship, so I ask for You, how can I get those plans for ships?

Best regards: gvandor
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #39 on: March 15, 2010, 06:54:53 PM »

gvandor hi there

First of all, welcome to the forum.  May you enjoy it, it is full of useful information  :-))

Secondly, the Cervia build plans come from a Company in England UK, called MyHobbiesStore.   You can purchase the plans on line and here is a link to where you will find them  - the boats plan page   http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17045/cervia-mm567  If you do a further search of all plans, you will come across the Frederique Spashett, look under fishing vessels.   You will also find a lot of plans for other interesting vessels - spend many an hour myself browsing and deciding what to build next.

Hope this helps.

Any questions just shout up on the Forum.  :-)) :-))

aye
john e
bluebird
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gvandor

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #40 on: March 15, 2010, 08:11:12 PM »

Hy Bluebird

Thank you all. The link what send me here, perfectly help me.  O0

Best regards: gvandor
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brianB6

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #41 on: August 26, 2010, 03:03:07 AM »

Hi There from Melbourne
I built a 1:48 Cervia from the free plan in Model Boats when it first came out about 1975.   My own fibreglass hull (why didn't I keep the mould <:( )   It has been through the wars surviving a major car crash and a sinking and is still going strong.  The old 27 meg. Futaba 'brick' Tx. and Rx are still going although the servo motors occasionally need oiling.
I have seen a few other examples sailing in Oz over the years including a 1:24 steam powered version.
Will post a photo when I learn how to do it on this site.
B6 refers to the number of Brian's in our club.
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Geoff Cropper

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #42 on: February 07, 2011, 04:39:40 PM »

I've got some plans of "Cervia" and noticed the rudder is moved by rods and chains attached to the rudder quadrant.       I was thinking I might replicate this system on my 1/36 scale model using chain and brass wire running through brass eyes and rollers at deck level.       Has any members done this system on their tugs? if so, have you any piccies please.      I haven't started on the model yet, I'm just collecting as much info as I can before I tell the Memsahib I'm going to build another tug.          Geoff.
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Billyruffian

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #43 on: February 08, 2011, 12:06:59 PM »

Hi Geoff,

Don't know about another tug but I believe Boatmadman has done something similar with his steam drifter build in the masterclass section.

Hope this helps?

Cyril
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Geoff Cropper

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #44 on: February 08, 2011, 07:30:56 PM »

Thanks Cyril, I'll have a look at that soonest.       My Dad was called Cyril as well.   Thanks again.     Geoff.
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Lt. Raen

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #45 on: March 05, 2011, 10:22:02 AM »

Hi Bluebird

I am planning on building a 1:48 scale Cervia this year (at least starting it  %%) and have a question about the planking to be used.
I am finding it difficult to find a supplier of Obechi here in Australia and was wondering what other types
of wood would be suitable for this build.
So far i can get a ready supply of Beech, Huon Pine, Limewood, Mahoganny and Pear and was thinking
the limewood would probably suffice.

Any help greatly appreciated

Tim
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John W E

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #46 on: March 05, 2011, 05:26:22 PM »

Hi there Tim

Limewood would be ideal to plank with, along with a timber sometimes called 'boxwood' it is basic Obechi also I have known people who have cut up wooden Venetian blinds into pieces to produce planking (although I am unsue what wood they are made from).  Hope this helps.



aye
john e
bluebird
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nhp651

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #47 on: March 05, 2011, 08:25:00 PM »

it's usually either obeche or jelutong, john......i use it for pof......buy it at car boots. at 50p - £1.00 for a complete blind, it's cheep planking.
lime and pearwood are exellent for planking as it's easy to sand and carve.
neil.
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Lt. Raen

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #48 on: March 06, 2011, 12:05:37 AM »

Thanks for the speedy replies looks limewood or venetian blinds it is


Tim
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Lt. Raen

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Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
« Reply #49 on: March 21, 2011, 07:24:55 AM »

I have started to trace the the plans so i can transfer them onto timber and am trying to work out where to finish each frame.
On the line drawing there is a small arrow pointing to the top of the frame with the word "strip" on it
My question is whether to draw the frame to the base of this strip or to the top of this strip.

Also how did you decide on the angle of the deck? (from edge of frame to centreline) as your frames do not appear completely flat,
dop they have a slight bulge to them?

Many thanks,
Tim
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