This is all good – “GOOD CONSTRUCTIVE COMMENTS”
Food for thought Martin one of the good sides of a Forum is ‘You meet people from all over the world’ but this does have a drawback.
When people give advice; the people giving the advice don’t know the capabilities of the person receiving the advice – How true and, this was the case when I was giving you advice about your hull build.
If we had known each other personally, I could have assessed/known how good of a builder you are. Must admit John, even I was surprised how well the hull turned out.
This may have altered your thoughts on your build.
When we first discussed diagonal planking; and the materials to use and the procedure to use; I for all my sins have to be excused because I took you as a complete novice. When I posted that thread re “Fibreglassing a Hull”, it was because, this is how things are done these days. The procedures for building and materials have changed over the last 30 years since I last built a hull. Having said that, I asked questions as a Novice would, hoping that I would get clear and precise instructions on the best way to proceed using todays methods and you VERY willingly provided such information with NO obligations and am very grateful for you in doing so I was expecting the planking to have some unevenness I do have some and also to have a certain amount of large gaps –no gaps just shear luck WRONG!!!!! So here we go, this is for anyone else who is interested also.
First of all, think of the material that you are going to be planking with; in your case it was 1/16 planking. This doubled up for the two skins and equates to ⅛ inch thick hull.The material I used doubled up to 1.2mm which I believe made it just over 1/16th When we look at this and think about the strength of this actual build – you have produced a very, very strong hull – near enough ‘bullet proof’. I wouldn't go that far but strong none the less
This is because of the makeup of the actual material you have used and also the way you have applied it.
I bet now, if you took the boat, you could literally bounce this then youacross a concrete floor without any damage DON’T TRY THIS THOUGH proceeded to coat it with another extremely strong material – woven roven or woven matting – and coated that in resin.
Now, if we can stop there and just think about why we are using the woven roven in the resin; because it is going to increase the strength even more to a hull that doesn’t really need strengthening any more. What we should have done is, just give the hull two or three coats of epoxy resin. Not polyester resin, but, epoxy.
This epoxy would have penetrated the first layer of your hull’s outer layer of plywood planking ONLY to the glue bond of the plywood.
Effectively it would create a good true seal from exterior environments. This would have been all that would have been required on this type of hull.
Sorry my mate, but don’t bother trying to remove what you have already done. Dress it up as per plan; and you are going to have a slightly heavier hull – but, immensely strong!!!! Actually the hull with the glass on it, is still lighter than the Mk 1 hull as I used to build a long time ago – SEE – your method has worked
Nothing to be sorry about John, as it was still my decision on how to proceed. When one asks for advice, it is up to that person as to whether he/she uses such information. You provided an idea and I was keen to try it out having never constructed in this method before.
So, DickyD thanks for your support but if John thinks he had upset me with those comments NO WAY. It is those type of comments I seek on this Build Thread – Good Constructive Comments.
The comments can only help me with my build and can be a guide to the Newbie along with other modelers having similar problems/mishaps.
So, having said that – Keep It Coming – I Love It.
Martin doon under