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[Martin13]

Hmmm,

Applying power to three motors in a boat that barely fits in a test tank not a good idea. After I placed BB back in the tank (attempted to climb out when power applied) large amounts of bubble wrap placed at either end of tank to act as buffer. Second time power applied, tank now only half full  as I ended up drenched. Should leave this to a larger water supply.

Accidentally found a water hole close to home - actually had a whole lot more water in it since the last fire season. Council even erected a sign for locals not to remove water. Reasonable weather and wife in tow to take happy snaps at every angle with some not so welcomed

anyhow - a picture is better than words.....

Martin du

[Martin13]

more pics

[Martin13]

and a few more...

notice the sign warning not to take water or else.

Martin du

[DickyD]

Very nice Martin.

You seem to have a fairly low coaming, is it high enough to keep the water out ?

Also, what holds your superstructure on ?

[Martin13]

All the photo's taken with the port and Starboard motors running only. I had a glitch with my Tx  and was unable to have centre motor off with the outboard motors. It appeared that the centre motor was operating ahead of the outboard motors, ie when the Pt and Stb motors stationary, centre motor running in forward....will sort this out later..

I did find that even with only the outboard motors operating with the mixer,  the model was able to turn on its own axis....impressive and created a nice bow wave.

Water cooling was not connected but I can see that this will need to be attached in the future. I'm having my doubts whether the water will be picked up and sent through ESC's and motors given the long runs of tubing etc.

Do any modelers have experience with water pumps for cooling etc.???

Martin du

[Martin13]

Very nice Martin.

You seem to have a fairly low coaming, is it high enough to keep the water out ?

Also, what holds your superstructure on ?

Dicky,
In actual fact - there is no coaming, only a ledge for the superstructure to sit on. My original thoughts were to stick some very thin rubber down beneath the superstructure to act as a seal. Also to have some sort of locking mechanism to hold structure down.

With today's operation, no rubber seal and no locking mechanism. The structure was a tight fit and no water ingress. I had to give it a bit of a jerk to remove.

Martin....finally with a boat on the water

[DickyD]

The superstructure on my PT boat was a tight fit with a high coaming--------- it fell off on a turn, never to be seen again.

[bluebird]

hi ya Martin

hey the model is super dooper - big question?  Did the model come up on the plane on full power?  Not take long to sort out the centre motor problem you have, now that I know you have a P40 inside.

aye
john

[Peter Fitness]

Very impressive Martin, she looks great on the water, and seems to track well going astern too. It's a great feeling when the model you've spent so much time on actually floats and, even better, goes where you want it to, when you want it to 

Nice pond  How did you "accidentally" find it?

Peter.

[Martin13]

hi ya Martin

hey the model is super dooper - big question?  Did the model come up on the plane on full power?  Not take long to sort out the centre motor problem you have, now that I know you have a P40 inside.

aye
john

In short John - No.

Not being able to run all 3 motors was a bu**er . My suspicions of a faulty Tx came to bear, as the centre motor cut out at full throttle and battery output fluctuated even though I had it on charge overnight.
After speaking with FLJ, the centre P98, switch No. 4 was activated to apply a small amount of lag to centre motor.  In conjunction with another Tx it appears that the problem may be fixed although I will know definitely after all batteries recharged.

The faulty Tx is a Hitec laser 4 on Mode 2. I have been using this radio for many years mainly with my gliders (see ribbons on antenna). I have another Hitec laser 4 but on Mode 1. I hope its an easy job to switch the configuration over to Mode 2 - have you had any experience

My you, I have no shortage of Tx and Rx's: besides the 2 x Hitec Laser 4's, I also have 2 x Hobbyking 2.4G, 4 channel Tx's including 8 x int/ext Rx's similar to Spektrum Rx's. I got these last year when the club (TF72) acquired a whole bunch at a very cheap price.
Having the need for extra channels for my F3B gliders, I purchased the complete setup, Spektrum DX7 - 2.4 G radio. Apparently the family was aware that I wanted a new radio so, a week later I was given another DX7 complete ie, Rx's, servos, batteries, charger etc.......hmmmm

I have radios coming out of my orifices 

Martin du

[Martin13]

Very impressive Martin, she looks great on the water, and seems to track well going astern too. It's a great feeling when the model you've spent so much time on actually floats and, even better, goes where you want it to, when you want it to 

Nice pond  How did you "accidentally" find it?

Peter.

Thanks Pete for your comments. I agree, it is nice to see a model actually doing what you command specially when its taken so long to get it to this stage. I know you can have a nice Bow Wave, but do I qualify for a nice Astern wave

As the sign reads "Water Hole" - it ain't no pond

The roadway in the background is the Calder Highway and to the right, is an overpass just out of picture. The Calder Hwy basically runs between Melbourne and Mildura and the hill in the background looking south is Mt Macedon.
The waterhole is on the left of the Melbourne Inbound lane as you go under the Woodend/Carlsruhe overpass. Located on a long bend alongside the highway, the waterhole is difficult to spot from the Highway. On the weekend, I was rostered on to take the Carlsruhe CFA firetruck out for training and a weekly run. On the return leg back to the station, instead of going onto the Highway from woodend as I usually do, I decided to go the back way and cross the overpass - that's when I spotted the waterhole .

In the last month we have had far amount of rain and the waterhole is now really huge where its normally the size of a backyard swimming pool. The council uses the waterhole to water roadside vegetation and can only have water removed for firefighting purposes, ie our firetruck. Hopefully the water will remain at this level for some as its really convenient with its location being 10 minutes from home...

Martin du

[Gra]

Finally on the water Martin,a nice feeling of satisfaction.
Well done.

Graham

[Peter Fitness]

Martin, I notice you have two of the Hobby King 2.4Ghz 4 channel radios. I bought one of the 6 channel models for only A$60 delivered, and it's a great piece of gear  

I have a fresh water lake only 200 metres from my door, but the problem is that it's usually very busy with swimmers, kayaks and sailing craft, as it's right alongside a caravan park. It can also become very choppy, so I don't use it as a sailing venue very often, although in winter it's not too bad.

The photos below show an aerial view I took back in 2003, our house is below the wing and not visible, and my 3 youngest grandsons sailing 3 of my boats in the lake in May this year. Conditions were perfect that day.

Peter.

[Martin13]

Hi Pete

Pic No.2 Is that the fresh water lake beside the caravan park or where you sail now - looks huge.

Hobbyking radios are only 4 channels. I got 2 Tx's and 8 Rx's very cheap - might use them when I get a pusher on the water - think may be ideal for my 3 nephews that appear to be the same age as your grandchildren

This waterhole I'm sailing in is ideal. Vic Roads have built many mudholes alongside the highway at each overpass - a good source of water for irrigation and emergency use. We have had a fair bit of rain this last month and the waterhole has turned into a nice size lake/pond. The only visitor I had was a council truck checking that I wasn't pilfering the water. When they saw the model, the lads waived and said thats okay and left.
Only hope the water level is the same when the warmer weather approaches.

Martin du

[Peter Fitness]

Martin, the lake in the photo is not the one our club sails in, but it is near us. As I said, it's a great lake but usually far too busy for model boating, which is a pity, as it's nice and handy, and it's fresh water.

I use my HK radio quite a lot, it has excellent range, but quite hard on battery usage. I bought some rechargeable batteries from Hobby City for mine. It is compatible with a Futaba charger, so I can charge them in the radio.

Peter.

[Martin13]

I use my HK radio quite a lot, it has excellent range, but quite hard on battery usage. I bought some rechargeable batteries from Hobby City for mine. It is compatible with a Futaba charger, so I can charge them in the radio.

Peter.

Pete,
Did you buy a made up pack or loose batteries for your Tx. I cannot see a connector inside the battery compartment. Thanks for the battery usage info, will look for some rechargeable types 

Martin
Pity about the pond

[Peter Fitness]

Martin, I did actually make up a pack myself, soldering a connector on to the radio circuit board, but the pack would not fit due to the shrink wrap, so I had to dismantle it and revert to loose batteries.

Peter.

[Ticonderoga]

Hi Martin,

It must be a great feeling to have your boat performing in the water. Well done, I am insanely jealous.

She looks just great. Well done.

[Martin13]

Hi Martin,

It must be a great feeling to have your boat performing in the water. Well done, I am insanely jealous.

She looks just great. Well done.

Thanks Tico,
Yes its great to get the hull wet but sorting out a few setup problems at the moment. It's taken about 2 years just to get here. Will be building a Pusher tug shortly in case BB stops in the middle of the waterhole. I need to get back to making fittings, paint deck green etc as I have a couple of Battleships needing attention.
In the meantime, I'm attempting to learn how to play golf - have developed a real Aussie gut since giving up smoking. Have found golf a good way to let off steam when modelling problems get out of hand

Martin du

[Ticonderoga]

Hya Martin.

Good luck with that golf thing

I find scratch building easier and less stressful

[Martin13]

Hya Martin.

Good luck with that golf thing

I find scratch building easier and less stressful

It's for when things don't quite go to plan - rather than kick and abuse model, pick up golf club thingy (pending on how angry or frustrated you are determines which numbered stick to use) then beat the 'rubbish' out of that little white ball   

Martin

[Ticonderoga]

Hee Hee I can see how that would work

By my reckoning your are burning the midnight oil a tad....

[Martin13]

Had another go in the waterhole yesterday.
After about 10 minutes, got a little close to the shallows and got stuck in the long grass beneath the water. Managed to get out then the model stopped all together. P & S  25A fuses blown. Checked the props and they looked like 2 fur balls (wish I had the camera) - no wonder fuses blew. No spares so I played with model on centre motor only - after 15 minutes, motor and ESC getting a bit hot. Time to call it quits for the day and start water cooling plumbing installation...

Martin du

[nick_75au]

That is looking to be an impressive build, only read the lasts page, will get back to read the rest of it, its a similar size to my Kingfisher I guess which is a 1:10 scale 58 footer. It has 4 of the Darke Horse 4:1 motors coupled together to 2 shafts by belt. Must get back to it, currently building a 1:6 Ski boat which will sport a 427ci Ford.

Off to watch the F1 qualifying

Nick

[Martin13]

Hi Nick,

Your Kingfisher and my BB would look great together. Your power train is awesome - should be able to pull a skier on its own without the 427.

I have just added all the plumbing for the watercooling and have mounted water outlets just below the transom exhaust shelf. Still uncertain whether the normal gravity feed will do the job, but I plan to take BB to the waterhole for another tryout today. During my last outing I bent one of the rudders which has now been replaced  - I have also modified the rudder linkages once more as the last time out, the rudder throw appeared a bit excessive..

Martin du

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hey Martin......I am getting very scared   looking at all of those silicone water cooling tubes without any form apparent of additional securing ..... ....good luck....Derek

[Martin13]

Hey Martin......I am getting very scared   looking at all of those silicone water cooling tubes without any form apparent of additional securing ..... ....good luck....Derek

Derek, Do you mean additional clips etc to hold silicone tubes on. If so. I don't believe them to be necessary as the hoses are damm tight now.

Martin du

[jonny shoreboy]

Still a couple of electrical ties couldn't hurt though...

[Martin13]

Still a couple of electrical ties couldn't hurt though...

Point taken. Thanks for comments. 

Had a 40 minute run down the local waterhole before I spun off 2 props and bent the third. BB is currently (or was) fitted with 3 x 50mm props - at full speed boat will not come up to plain and thats with no ballast onboard. Think I might order 60mm or 65mm props instead.
After todays run, although ESC's and motors do get a bit warm, have decided water cooling is not essential and will be removing plumbing.

I'm intending to put BB aside for a while as I feel that I have spent far too much time on this model and need a break (frustration set in). I have a Fleetscale Battleship and a scratchbuilt Battleship that need my attention plus  looking at a Tug boat kit.

So, on that note -  HASTA LA VISTA, BABY...............I'LL BE BACK !!


Martin down under and out

[DickyD]

Martin I would leave the plumbing until you have tried your new larger props as your motors will have to work harder to turn them.

[bluebird]

Hi there Martin
You know the old saying ‘NIL DISPARANDUM’ some things are sent to try one.  If it was a walk in the park we wouldn’t enjoy it – hey isn’t that a load of ‘cobblers’ 
Something isn’t right here my mate, in theory, those dark horse motors should tear the bottom out of the model.  It should surely come up on the plane if you have had no ballast on it?  Unless the model has put a surprising amount of weight on.
First things first:
Have you tried?
a)   Removing the speed controllers and mixer out of the equation and coupled up the motors directly to your battery?   That is a fully charged – and have a listen to the motor note – and if possible try an RPM test.    Then, refit the speed controller without the mixer and try running the motor again through the speed controller – to top revs – to find out if she achieves the same top revs with the speed controller as she does without.   The reason for this is that the speed controller may be starving the motor of ‘top-end’ performance.
b)   If the speed controllers are okay and are not starving the motors – make up a triple lead from your speed controllers to your RX – thus you are doing away with the mixer unit.   All three speed controllers will respond the same to the stick movement on your transmitter to see if you still get top end.
c)   When you put the model in the watering hole  was there any sign of cavitation on the props at full bore?   Sometimes you can loose top end speed drastically from the prop at the top end of speed through the prop cavitating.  The way to test for this is to hold the boat by the back-end securely next time you are at the watering hole and slowly move the throttle stick to full power.  At lower revs you will feel the props biting, but, as you get to 3rd to top end you will feel the power begin to drop-off and the boat will tend to pulse and you will get a lot of aerated water from the back end.
d)   What voltage are you running the dark horses at?   If I recall correctly, I think you said you may have been running on 18.4 or 18.?   Instead of increasing the prop diameter, how about increasing the voltage instead to say 22 – 24 volts – I am sure the dark horses will handle that.
Yes, last thing, rip the cooling out – sometimes it is best to let the motors run warm-to-slightly hot – don’t forget brushed electric motors run at their most efficient when warm to hot.

Also, Martin, did you try and move all of the controls onto one stick on your transmitter, throttle & rudder in other words? If so, did it improve the mixer set up?
Aye
But don’t don’t give up mate.......just about cracked it.
John

[Gra]

Hi Martin
Stay with it,step back and have a break.
I plan to build a 1/16 scale Whaleback Air Sea Rescue next year.Company for BB.
Sounds like good advice from Bluebird.

Gra

[Martin13]

Hi Martin
Stay with it,step back and have a break.
I plan to build a 1/16 scale Whaleback Air Sea Rescue next year.Company for BB.
Sounds like good advice from Bluebird.

Gra

G'Day Gra,

Yep. good advice as usual from BB about BB

I need 3 new props seeing that 2 of them are at the bottom of the waterhole. Had a look at the Raboesch props but cannot remember what type 3 bladers I used. According to listing on Cornwalls site, the 3 different type of props are all low rpm types......confusion has set in once more

Mdu

[FullLeatherJacket]

Martin
JD recommends Raboesch 'Type A' 3-bladers - and 50mm is too small for those 3:1 geared monsters motors. New P40C and a 4-way splitter should be with you any day now.
FLJ

[Martin13]

Martin
JD recommends Raboesch 'Type A' 3-bladers - and 50mm is too small for those 3:1 geared monsters motors. New P40C and a 4-way splitter should be with you any day now.
FLJ

Thanks FLJ. Type A - 3 bladers - What size do you think I should try? I'm fairly certain that the 50mm props were cavitating as John suggests - looking forward to the new bits arrival..

Thanks again for the info,

Martin