'TWIN FLICKER'  (P90)

 PCB kit with case     
http://www.actionkit.co.uk/

Two independent random flickering outputs adjustment of effect / rate  .
 







 

I've been asking for various bits of advice regarding building the Puffer on the forum, one question was how to make LED's look more like oil lamps that wouk be fitted to the mast. Riggers jumped up and said the ' Action make a "Twin Flicker" unit that simulates oil, open fire, candles or even Arc Welding!!!' Thanks Riggers.... as if it wasn't taking enough time and work to get the Puffer finished!!! ;-)

 I've build a few Action kits over the years and this makes the third unit / kit in this Puffer alone, the other two being the 'micro STEAM ENGINE SOUND’ micro size P64 on 4.8V to 6V receiver power.  P64A PUFFER (single cyl) & the ‘UNIVERSAL’ TWIN LATCH 3 AMP RELAY SWITCHER (P44A), these I'll cover on another page.

The kit is described as:

This is a microcomputer driven flasher to run two alternate flash operations, either alternate double flash or alternate single flash. This single project will simulate   OIL LAMPS, CANDLES, OPEN FIRES, & ARC WELDERS. Ideal for lighting on old steam boats. Each output has the current capability to control any type of bulb or LED up to 200mA provided they are of a suitable voltage for the supply volts you are using (three GOW BULBS) Tiny cased unit with input and output screw connectors. OK for 6 to 12 Volt operation. Screwed case size - 40mm x 27mm x 17mm. Full PCB kit less wire.  SCREWDRIVER  CONNECTION.


 I ordered the kit and it arrived NEXT DAY!!!!    Beat that for service!

 
The kit is very simple, only 13 components.... the trick is in the PIC programmable IC.

 		 I'm not going to tell you how to build the kit, as Craig has written the simplest set of instructions that is possible to write! ANYONE that knows what a soldering iron is for can build this circuit........ BTW, you plug the soldering iron in, let it get hot, hold it by the end that doesn't burn you!!!

 		 Tip 1:

Make sure your soldering iron is CLEAN.
Wipe it on a damp sponge on cloth to clean of all the crap.

 		 Tip 2:

Put component in the hole, place solder on the joint, touch the joint & solder with the soldering iron. DON'T hold the soldering iron to long or let it get too hot...... practice & experience.

 		 Tip 3:

I leave a gap under components when possible;
1. If I have to take it out again, it's a bit easier.
2. I can clip on a multimeter if needs be.

 		 Tip 4:

As a rule I fit IC sockets first then resistors, then diodes, then capacitors.... but always... it's only a rule! Cut the leas of components only after you have soldered them and you are fully satisfied it's in the right place.

 		 Tip 5:

Trim leads low but not to the board while working on it. I will re-trim the leads once the circuit has been tested..... again it gives you one last chance to correct something.

 		 Tip 6:

You can even leave a slight gap under the capacitors if you're clever like me!

 		  

Transistors next...... get them the right way round.

 		  

Everything in place..... except the IC. Remember, be careful, static can blow it up!

 		  

And this is what you end up with!
Total construction time 30 minutes!

 
Get your batter out and prep some wires.
Now before you connect anything to anything, go make yourself a cup of tea.... which allows you time to reflect on your building skills and also  gives you time to remember anything you may have forgotten!  Come back - CHECK & CHECK again!
Tip 7:

Get yourself a fully charge and hefty battery... if you're gonna blow it up, do it in style!



 		  

Mine worked perfect first time......... yes I was very surprised too!

The unit can be configures several ways.....

And here are the video clips of it working.

Excellent unit - 10/10

1.3 Meg
4.2 Meg
5.4 Meg
2.6 Meg
2.9 Meg
7.4 Meg

Excellent unit - 10/10
 

 

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