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[WiZeR]

Hello Mayhemers

I have started to build a Dumas Chris Craft Triple same as in this thread

In the manual, whenever it refers to sticking something together it refers to it as cementing.  "Cement this to that" "put the cement here" etc.  In the introduction it suggests 3 glues: Titebond, CA and epoxy.

Thing is, I don't know what glue to use at what points.  So far I have used CA for everything.  I am just about to 'Cement the frames'.

Is it just a case of intuition?  i.e when CA seems too thin, then use epoxy?

Sorry if this is a real n00b question, but that is what I am

[Shipmate60]

What materials are you wanting to stick together?

Bob

[WiZeR]

ah yes good point.  It's Ply, Spruce and Mahogany.

[Shipmate60]

WiZer,
I use Evo Stick Resin W (waterproof).
It takes a while to go off but is stronger than the wood.

Bob

[WiZeR]

Ah, so PVA/Aliphatic Resin then in other words?  I wonder what they expect me to do with the epoxy

[Shipmate60]

Epoxy will stick it, but I find the alphatic glues seep into the wood and give a very strong joint.
I also use 5 min Epoxy for quick setting, but this just isn't such a strong joint.
For Frames to Keel I always use alphatic.
For planks or sheets I have used epoxy, but it can be a bit brittle when set.

Bob

[WiZeR]

Thanks Bob.  So I should be ok to use AR throughout the build?

[Shipmate60]

If its all wood yes, but it does take a while to go off, for something quicker I was hoping Bluebird would give some further alternatives.

Bob

[Colin H]

Titebond if it is the same stuff I use is a very good water proof wood glues sets in less than an hour and provides a good bond.

Comes in see through plastic bottle with blue writing and is a dark yellow colour.

Colin H.

[Ivor Bittle]

Use thin and medium superglue with accelerator and 5 and 12 minute epoxy. If you use superglue make sure that you have good ventilation in the region of your work piece. Otherwise vg and very quick.

Ivor Bittle

[John W E]

hi ya there

The only other glues which I can think of at the moment - are the polyurethane ones.   They are the ones that foam up when setting.

However, cautionmust be used when using these glues - some of the less expensive varieties seem to foam up and expand a lot more than the more expensive ones.   As was the case which happened to me a while ago, when I had to make a replacement breast hook for a lifesized sailing boat.   It was a laminated construction - it was 2x1/2 inch steamed mahogany around the jig.  To bond it, I used the polyurethane glue and where laminates were not clamped at the 'tails' or the 'scrap ends' of the hook - the polyurethane pushed the laminates apart when it was fully cured and expanded.

So, that may give you some idea of the strength of this type of glue.

The other type of glue is the old Cascamite glue; this one is the powder that you mix with water.  I believe you can still purchase it from Screwfix and I think it's Humbrol who make it now - it make have changed its name from Cascamite to something else - no doubt someone on here will know  .

This glue is excellent for bonding timbers; but, to be truthful, the glues I normally use for modelling are the Evostik Waterproof which I use for bonding all my timbers from frames to planking.   I mainly use Epoxied for dissimilar metals - e.g. when I am gluing steel to wood or plastic to wood or plastic to steel.

I use the Plasweld for all types of plastic as well as superglue.

aye
john e
bluebird

[WiZeR]

Thanks Guys.  I will stick with Aliphatic Resin for now and use the others as and when I need them

[BarryM]

Try this http://www.thistothat.com/index.shtml

Barry M