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[sinjon]

I have just been to the Modelling Timbers site to get some deck planking for my Fleetscale Bismarck, it seems that they are no longer doing timber, just selling off what they have in stock. Very sad, they were always so helpful, plus an impressive stock of wood.
So where do we go now?
I am looking for possibly Lemonwood, (although I will take what I can get) and my vernier tells me the little bit I have, is 0.68mm thick and 2.00mm wide. Any ideas?

Colin

[Colin Bishop]

Look on the Euromodels Website, they have a large stock of timbers although it's probably best to order from Westbourne Models who also keep stocks.

JOTika are also worth a try, they cut their own stripwood. Their products are now on http://www.shipwrightshop.com/ Again, Westbourne stock them.

Colin

[Mickymike]

Hi

As for the wood you are looking for I go to my local Dolls House Shop and for the decking I use Dolls House Floorboards
they have a very good range of small woods.
Hope this might help

Regards

Mike

[Bunkerbarge]

There's a German guy selling a lot of strip wood on eBay at the moment.  If you have Paypal it is quick and easy.

[Seaspray]

Just about to  plank the aft deck and  going to try Jotika.

They were recommended by a friend  and have  seen the quality of their wood.

Just reopened today,  as they  were at an exhibition.

Martin

[sinjon]

I have followed your suggestions,thank you all, but still no 2mm strip,
I am working to a scale of 1:128, that means you must multiply every mm by that figure, so my 2mm comes out at 256mm (10"0)
I think about right, 3mm which is available, comes out at 384mm (15") I think that surely must be too wide for a battleship plank?
I have found a company that does ' Stringing Lines ' this is for veneering, and they do a Boxwood at 2.7mm, now that gives me 345.6mm (13.5") not what I want, but a tad closer. and the price is a fraction of the others
Next problem is that the catalogue is 2006, I will have to give them a call tomorrow.
Anyone who is interested, the company is Craft Supplies, Bradwell Derbyshire.

[Seaspray]

Just an idea.

My KG 5th has planked decks and I believe the person that built her, cut the planking strips to the length / sizes himself.

He used very thin ply and stained it to match the build.

Everybody notices it.

Martin

[Colin Bishop]

I believe that, in the Royal Navy, battleships had planking up to 9 inches wide until WW1. Smaller vessels had 6 inch planking. Wood of this width became harder to obtain after that. I've also seen a reference to the German battleships of WW1 having planking that was 20cm wide.

[Bunkerbarge]

Have a look at this stuff.  The smallest in the range, 1/16th works out at approximately 1.5mm wide.

You would obviously have to very carefully score the plank ends but they are individual pieces of wood so would look just as good as individually laid when finished.

http://www.micro-mark.com/  then enter planking in the search box.

[Proteus]

also depending on scale etc another supplier

http://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/index.php/cPath/5_19


Proteus

[roycv]

Hi all, I bought some ready cut 4mm wide planking in a pack from a well known distributor, but I think this was knife cut rather than sawn timber.
It meant that the edges were not as clean as some lime wood, I also had to hand and I gave up trying to get an appeareance of caulking by blackening the edge,  even after an attempt at light sanding..
Any comments?

regards Roy

[KenP]

I've used Art Veneers, phone 01638 712330, fomm Midenhall, Suffolk   Got some planking for my 1:128 scale USS Missouri.
They do it 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 3.4mm wide, approx .75mm thick.
Mind you this was a couple of years ago but I think they are still in business

Ken

[RickF]

Modelling at 1:48 or larger, I use basswood (lime/linden), 1/16" thick and the appropriate width. I use PVC insulation tape for caulking, as follows:

I take as many strips of bass on edge which together equal the width of the tape, lay the tape sticky side up and press the strips down on to it, turn it all over and rub down hard. If I'm building to a really big scale, I use two thicknesses of tape.

Using a sharp blade, I carefully separate each strip and its stuck-on tape. I now have a bundle of planks with caulking down one edge.

Using waterproof white glue, I fix an uncaulked plank down the centre of the deck. Then I work outwards towards both sides, using the caulked  planks. This, of course, gives a line of caulking between each plank.

Once it's all set, I use a Stanley knife blade to scrape the deck before sanding by hand and sealing with polyurethane varnish. I once tried an electric sander, but found the friction melted the caulking!

Rick

[Ron1]

RickF said, I take as many strips of bass on edge which together equal the width of the tape, lay the tape sticky side up and press the strips down on to it, turn it all over and rub down hard. If I'm building to a really big scale, I use two thicknesses of tape.

Using a sharp blade, I carefully separate each strip and its stuck-on tape. I now have a bundle of planks with caulking down one edge.

Using waterproof white glue, I fix an uncaulked plank down the centre of the deck. Then I work outwards towards both sides, using the caulked  planks. This, of course, gives a line of caulking between each plank.


I seem to have read that some where before.

[RickF]

Of course you have, Ron, we both use this method. But there are still a lot of people out there who haven't caught on to it yet.

Rick

[Ron1]

You are correct, I got it from Jim Woods about 10 years ago.

[Bryan Young]

You are correct, I got it from Jim Woods about 10 years ago.

Or me from 20 years ago.

[John W E]

hi there

I do not think there is much wrong with using a permanent marker to edge the planks with - as long as it's done correctly.

If you are having problems with raggy edges on the edges of the plank, where it has been cut, if you bundle several planks which have been cut to size, together, and clamp them in a Bulldog Clip and then with the aid of a piece of sandpaper which has been stuck to a flat piece of wood/board - gently sand the raggy edges of the planks using the Bulldog Clip to hold them.

Have a look at the photograph below, these planks have all been edged with a waterproof permanent marker.   I did try black paper - but I found that was reluctant to stick to the edges of the planks - using white PVA glue - and it was even worse when I used Superglue to bond the paper to the planks.

aye
john e
bluebird

[Colin Bishop]

Nice bit of joggling there Bluebird!

[Ron1]

You are correct, I got it from Jim Woods about 10 years ago.

Or me from 20 years ago.

no way ho say.

[Seaspray]

Just order some Maple from JoTiKa see how it gos but will have to stain it till I get the right shade/colour.

Nice work there John, hope mine turns out the same..... and your better 

If any members know of a good quality stainer that is easy to buy, let me know and easy to locate.

Seaspray

[woodybob]

This company has a nice selection of Deck Planking.  http://northeasternscalelumber.com/osc/catalog/index.php?cPath=23

[herrmill]

I've used Northeastern's sheet planking on my 1/200 Yamato & am quite happy with their product. 

Its perfect for us lazy modelers who don't want to fiddle with individual planking on smaller scale models. 

Chuck

[pneumatician]

I am building a Highlander Clyde Puffer.  Have decided I dont like the printed deck so intend to plank it instead.
I assumed that the caulking was always black but today on the TV were pictures of a cruise liner where the deck wood was off white and the caulking was also white.

Advice and comments appreciated.

Steve

[Bryan Young]

This company has a nice selection of Deck Planking.  http://northeasternscalelumber.com/osc/catalog/index.php?cPath=23
[/quote
And here was me thinking that NE meant NE England! Oops.