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[tigertiger]

Sometimes, especially in gusts, you cannot tack.
You can usually wear, but you need to think a bit ahead as wearing takes more time and space. The moment it looks like you won't be able to tack, wear. I learned this as the far side of the pond I sailed in was overhanging shrub, a magnet for shrouds.

[Sir_Gorg]

@mrpenguin

I understand, that "horse" you made under mainsail boom, has the hole at the top, and the winch rope goes through it? Is the hole in the "horse" exactly over the original hole in the deck? I see also, that you gave an additional support for the back end of jib boom. Is it attached to the same eye on the mast, as the sail itself?

[tigertiger]

3) Regarding your comment that small movements of the sail control stick results in large movement of the boom

If they are still using the same radio set as when I bought mine, then the stick only moved from centre to top. Yes this creates a problem of little stick movement equals large throw. I forgot about this.


My solution, switch radio set. Luckily I have spares, with a full range of movement on the sticks.

[Sir_Gorg]

I have bought the radio separately - and it has full stick movement, so that is not a problem. I rather think that winch servo on the Monsoon has too many rotations from closed tu full open position. When full open, both booms points 120 degrees from the boat axis, when IMHO just about 80 degrees angle is quite enough.

[mrpenguin]

I have bought the radio separately - and it has full stick movement, so that is not a problem. I rather think that winch servo on the Monsoon has too many rotations from closed tu full open position. When full open, both booms points 120 degrees from the boat axis, when IMHO just about 80 degrees angle is quite enough.

@Sir_Gorg
Your radio setup sounds to be correct - the sails only need to go out to about 80 degrees from centreline - you can stop the winch travelling further by either adjusting endpoints in the radio if it is capable of adjustment, or if not, you can add a manual endpoint limiter (see picture below). While this looks a bit odd it actually works very well!!
 
The sail control stick should not be spring centring, it should stay where you leave it

[mrpenguin]

@mrpenguin

I understand, that "horse" you made under mainsail boom, has the hole at the top, and the winch rope goes through it? Is the hole in the "horse" exactly over the original hole in the deck? I see also, that you gave an additional support for the back end of jib boom. Is it attached to the same eye on the mast, as the sail itself?

Yes the "horse" has a hole in the top centre, above the original fairlead.

The line running up from the clew of the jib boom is called a "topping lift" - it allows fine adjustment of the curve in the jib sail, useful in light winds. The lower end connects to the jib boom at the clew, the upper end connects to the mast crane where the top of the jib attaches. I also have a loose loop of line around the sail about level with the spreaders to stop the topping lift catching in the spreaders. Tension the backstay first, then adjust the topping lift for the amount of curve in the jib leach that you want.
 

[pjwright]

This has been such a well-documented build - thanks for the effort!
One question ... on these HK boats its suggested that we use a longer reinforcement piece connecting the upper and lower mast halves.  Makes sense to me - but I can't seem to extract the installed hard plastic insert.  Any advice?
Thanks...
 
PJ

[mrpenguin]

This has been such a well-documented build - thanks for the effort!
One question ... on these HK boats its suggested that we use a longer reinforcement piece connecting the upper and lower mast halves.  Makes sense to me - but I can't seem to extract the installed hard plastic insert.  Any advice?
Thanks...
 
PJ

The newer joiners have a metal insert, they are a bit more robust. Replace it if/when it bends/breaks
Pictures below show a similar before/after for a Hurricane joiner. Damage happened during handling onshore - a gust of wind at the wrong moment..
 
 

[pjwright]

Thanks, Mr. P ... so should I assume that nothing more than friction is holding the existing plastic joiner in the mast, and with some effort I can extract it without doing any damage? 
 
PJ

[mrpenguin]

Thanks, Mr. P ... so should I assume that nothing more than friction is holding the existing plastic joiner in the mast, and with some effort I can extract it without doing any damage? 
 
PJ

@PJ:
All the Shunbo mast joiners I have seen are friction only. However, some I have dealt with have been VERY tight. I respectfully suggest you save yourself the trouble of replacing the joiner until you need to do so.
 
Nots sure if this is mentioned elsewhere - replacement of the original standing rigging (particularly the shrouds) with some heavier, non stretching stuff will stiffen the rig up significantly. I have used 100lb Dyneema (cheap on eBay, expensive in fishing shops) - it does the job nicely. I also recommend replacing the bowsies (the little plastic tensioners) with something a little more substantial - if you don't do the rest, at least do the backstay one, it WILL break with a good gust from astern and either let go or slip; the rig then goes all saggy or may even collapse forwards (I can tell you this from experience!!) Servo arms are a good source of material for bowsies.....
 
As mentioned, most damage will happen while the boat is being handled, during the trip from the car to the water. You will find it easier if you handle the boat with the sails sheeted well out so they can swing around and keep the bow pointed to the wind.
 

[Boomer]

Here is how I reinforced the mast joint on my Monsoon (years ago) Using the factory plastic piece and using the hole already provided - with the plastic piece in place put the mast in a vice to insure proper fit and alignment is set - then drill through the original hole and drill three more holes - see the photos for placement.  Only cost is the the 4 same fasteners/bolts.

[Netleyned]

Beware of adding weight high up.
All the Victoria mods on the mast and rigging are to reduce
top weight.
Spreaders are not needed.

Ned

[Boomer]

Beware of adding weight high up.
All the Victoria mods on the mast and rigging are to reduce
top weight.
Spreaders are not needed.

Ned

Ned
Keep in mind this is a $100 boat that comes with a steel mast and steel booms The few grams the 4 tiny fasteners add are insignificant. I sailed my Monsoon with out the "bendy" mast fix and after I fixed the mast and sail it for 2.5 years - could not discern any difference except the mast wasn't like a wet noodle any more. Your point is well taken, but on this boat to me it is a non-issue.

[Sir_Gorg]

It has to be told, that currently bought Monsoons (as new) have aluminium mast and booms, not steel... Not to mention, that if rigging is changed as I done that, mast if stiff enough without changing the mast parts joint. I also have found last time, that if rigging should be more effective, the lower spreader on the mast is... too high of a 160mm. I have checked it in quite fine program called Sailcut CAD...

[pjwright]

Thanks, guys - I have a spool of Dyneema for the standing rigging, and bought Pekabe bowsies to replace the originals.  I plan to use a small piece of hard nylon tubing where the shrouds pass through the spreaders.  Those things have edges like an old tin can!  That'll get us in the water ... and we'll see where things go from there!
 
PJ

[Boomer]

Sir George
I got my Monsoon many years ago, back in '08 maybe '09, if memory serves me correctly. The mast on mine was painted thin gauge steel - all the screws on the boat were painted pot steel and would rust in heart beat. I actually have an extra mast for that boat in my shop - that one is steel too. Wonder when they changed?? Or was my boat unusual? Sold it years ago, doesn't matter. Hey, for the price, I can't complain!  Monsoon and a Nirvana got me started on RC sailing. Still have a Nirvana ll in my collection but sold the Monsoon to buddy that loved the way it looked. 

Enjoy!
Boomer

[Sir_Gorg]

Checked, confirmed for 100% - my Monsoon has aluminum mast and boom. What can that hobby do with a man...  Because of a poor movies quality I just bought HD cam... But this week possibilities of sailing at Gdansk are close to zero - tropic madness... +40 Celsius and no wind, completely no wind. BTW - other question - what 1 meter boat (or even bigger) can you advise as the next step? Something close to RTR, not the project to be made from zero...?

[mrpenguin]

.....what 1 meter boat (or even bigger) can you advise as the next step? Something close to RTR, not the project to be made from zero...?

At the budget end of town - HobbyKing Ocean Racer (also known as the "Sailor)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8360__RC_Ocean_Going_Racing_Yacht_2_2m.html
A considerably bigger boat than your Monsoon, higher and deeper, 1 metre long
 
A little further up the market, the Joysway Focus, comes in three colour schemes I think. Just recently released, good reports thus far. Needs a good bit of water to sail in. This link is in Australia but will give you the idea...
http://www.hobbywarehouse.com.au/joysway-9902-red-focus-rc-yacht.html

[Boomer]

BTW - other question - what 1 meter boat (or even bigger) can you advise as the next step? Something close to RTR, not the project to be made from zero...?

Sir_Gorg
The Joysway Focus Mr.P suggests looks like a decent choice. There is a thread on this forum that discusses this boat in depth. It includes the "pros and cons" and the fixes for the issues thus far discovered - Worth while read should you be interested. Joysway seems to be improving their boats quality on several of their recent releases - the Focus and their new Dragon Force RG 65.
Since you are becoming familiar with the Hobby King Monsoon, you might consider their Phantom and/or the Ocean Racer that Mr.P mentioned. They are all very similar in construction materials, rigging and furnished electronics, at least you'd know what you would be getting into. With a few tweaks their boats are not bad for the money!

The Focus has a higher price but comes as an RTR. I don't think the radio they provide is going to be much, but the boats look nice and seem to be getting some attention.

Your location may limited your choices, not sure.

Boomer

[pjwright]

These guys offer the Joysway Focus for $271US, free shipping.
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Joysway-9902-2_4Ghz-4-Ch-Focus-Sailboat-RTR-p-50065.html
May be a similar deal for our Polish friend?
 
PJ

[Sir_Gorg]

Thanks folks for the advices. Decision made, Focus choosen and ordered - I have found it here in Poland... I need to wait, as the store has no stock of Focuses, but they will get it within 2-3 weeks...
Looking just on the photos it seems, that Focus, even being ready kit, looks much better made than Monsoon.

[LarryW]

HI Gorg,
 To late to look at SURMOUNT.great boat great price £99 Howes models uk complete with radio.
           sails well , better still with a few mods cheers Larry..

[Sir_Gorg]

As I see, Surmount is smaller than Monsoon... I have searched for yacht bigger than Monsoon 

[LarryW]

   Hi have look at J CLASS
                                            cheers Larry...

[Sir_Gorg]

Hi :)

Long time no word about Monsoon... so I will show some winter work. I had not much time but I am finally approaching the end of a new sails making. Using SailCut CAD I have designed radial cut sails. All are made of mylar heat-adhesive foil of 24 microns thickness. First I have made blanks of foil, joining it with laminating machine, secured between two sheets of paper. Then printed in 1:1 scale templates of panels were used to hand cut panels from foil. All panels were joined with 6mm double side super strong adhesive tape. Edges were finished with adhesive straps of Skytex material. Here you can see nearly finished foresail. Looks flat on the photo, but it is not - it has all the necessary curvature.