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[Colin Bishop]

It would be interesting to know what scales members build at and why they prefer it. At the moment my two current projects are 1:48th scale and I am not altogether comfortable with that as you have to show too much detail for my liking. My preference is for larger prototypes at smaller scales as shown by my model of SS Granada at 1:100 scale below. Ideally I like to build even smaller at 1:150 scale which means that you are employing artistic techniques rather than 100% fidelity to scale. So what do you prefer?

Colin

[mike_victoriabc]

A few of us building in the tug world seem to fall back on 1:24 models. A few build larger - perhaps 1:18. Typical tugs can be in the 35 foot to 60 foot range so the 1:24 produces a nice sturdy model. 1:32 can be a bit small for these.

[ggeorge]

Hi Colin,
  I am one of these modelers that prefer the larger scale 3/4in 1in to the ft. I have built other boats at smaller scales but seem to have settled into this larger scale. What I like with the larger scale is the detail. You actually have to do the nut and bolt scale. My TID is 3/4 in. to the ft. which can be seen on my thread. There are a couple of projects in the future which I plan to do but will have to be in a smiler scale due to to there size. So like most marine modelers we seem to be all over the scale. Here is one I did in 3/4 scale.

[Peter Fitness]

Lovely model, Colin, and it looks marvellous on the water.  Am I correct in assuming it's scratch built?

I don't build to a scale, rather I try to keep the finished model under 1 metre in length, usually around 80 cm. I do this simply because I do not have the room to store large models, a problem which I'm sure many of us have. It would be ideal to build to a constant scale but, in my case at least, it's impractical.

Peter.

[nhp651]

I like 1:32 for my workboats( tugs and Trawlers) but just have to work at 1:12 scale for my lifeboats.
Having said that I've worked in and enjoyed building to other scales over the years, as it keeps the brain active in thought and problem solving to a scale  AND the fingures nimble enough to produce in smaller sizes.
I must confess to having a desire to model a minature, but couldn't see the things any more,,,,,,,, so sadly they are now just a dream?

[Bunkerbarge]

I think a lot of it has to do with your own transport capabilities so the size of your car plays a part.  Unlike you though Colin I love detail so I tend to be attracted to scales that let me go mad with adding accesories and detail.  I think the best for this is 1/35th because there is so much plastic model stuff available to use.

I've got a couple of 1/12 scale models as well, this enables the use of dolls house accesories which I really enjoy, and I have tried to keep the tug collection to a common scale of 1/48th.

[dougal99]

As others, I build to a size I can readily transport and launch. My Brittany Trawler at 1:16 is the largest scale I've worked to in scratch building, but I've also built at 1:48, 1:40 (a kit) and I'm currently attempting an OSV at 1:76. Oh, I forgot the Sea Queen which is a fairly large almost scale boat.

Doug

[Ghost in the shell]

1/87th scale - reason Figures for crew are easy to get

[dreadnought72]

I don't particularly have a "favourite" scale. The one I chose for the Dreadnought was based on the limits of practicality and the fact that I've been immersed in 1/72nd since childhood.

But then I've also been immersed in 1/32nd. And 1/6th. Not that my Airfix Russian infantry ever took on my Action Men.

That said, a good model is a good model - certainly on this forum I've been able to bask in beautifully made things at all sorts of scales. Long may they keep coming!

Andy

[Bryan Young]

Just a bit intrigued as to why you posted this query in the first place.
Given the size of the original then the scale you build at becomes sort of automatic. I have never built a model over about 3500 tons (real tons) as my preferred scale is 1:48. A 3,500 ton ship is probably going to be about 350' long (ish), and that can equate to around 7' long as a model. That's as much as I and the trailer can handle. Experience can handle the detail work...loads of info if you look. But I have built the trawler "Bayflower" at 1:36 and "Bluebird of Chelsea" at 1:12 scale. At present doing a Tyne ferry at 1:24. Makes a change! But the serious answer would be "how effective will it be on the water?". Malcolms 8' long "Bismarck" looks tiny when 50ft away from the poolside. As does my 7' "Recorder". But the 1:12 "Bluebird" still looks OK. So horses for courses Colin. Choose the ship first and then decide on the scale. Cheers BY.

[Colin Bishop]

Good point Bryan and I agree that the overall size of the model can determine the scale used. And I agree that large scale models of smaller prototypes tend to look more realistic on the pond - well they would, wouldn't they? I think what I was getting at is that some modellers are more comfortable working with some scales than others. On a large scale the detail has to be comprehensive and exact while on a smaller scale (for the same overall size of model) you can adopt more of a broad brush almost impressionistic approach. For example, people building to 1:1200 scale can only "suggest" something like an anchor windlass, yet at that scale it's perfectly effective as long as the model itself gives a good impression of the original. Same object in both cases but different techniques.

Colin

[Bryan Young]

Colin, we are now encroaching into the realms of "static" and glass cased models. If I was at all interested in building a model ship that wouldn't float and "perform" then I wouldn't be on this forum. I do not want to take away any respect from those who build "static"..but if I did build a static out of, shall we say, fragile materials, then I would put the model into a case, and let the world admire it. I would prefer to at least attempt to build a model to a "glass-case" standard but make it work. Ships look sad when they are just an artifact. They are machines built to do a job. Job done, then they are scrapped....the same as your old Morris Marina. I will continue building working versions as long as the (fading) eyes hold out. Sorry to go off topic. BY.

[Colin Bishop]

Not off topic Bryan. But I'm not necessarily referring to static models, much as I admire them. I still hope to turn one of these photos into the other. 1:150 scale and fully working.

Colin

[John W E]

I suppose one way of looking at what scale we build is actually what is available for us?    For those who wish to build kits and stuff like that.    I dont think many manufacturers produce many varying scales of one particular vessel - I know there are a variety of scales in lifeboats and tugs and so forth but, as we move on to the larger vessels, as in warships and liners, cargo ships etc., the amount of scales/choice & fittings seems to diminish.

So, in a way that is where a scratchbuilder has a slight advantage over the readily available 'kits'.

The only drawback is, if you build an odd scale the chances are you would have to manufacture all of your fittings.

To go to shed a bit of light on what Bryan was saying about how much detail to put on a model to make it a 'workable glass case model' depends on the model one builds  -  have a look at some of the lifeboat models which have been made - the standard of workmanship/fittings are of the highest standard possible and yet some of these are working models and not just for the glass case. 

As far as ME and MY SCALES    I would love to build a 1:48 scale warship  but :-

a) me work bench is only 80 inches long

b) weight & who can carry it to the Lake 

c) I would end up getting wrong from the Mrs - mmmmmm where could I store it

aye
john e
bluebird

[dan]

personally i like modeling in 1/96 or any thing around that mark when it comes to the warships and merchant ships, this makes it easier to transport them, and its not too hard to make when it comes to detail.

But for tugs i perfur the 1/32 scale. i find its easy to get scale parts and extremely easy to assemble   

[tugnut]

HI all new on here, i build mainly tugs scratch builds,i prefer 1'32 for size plus weight.

 John B

[Colin Bishop]

Obviously the availability of commercial fittings seems to be a significant factor. I prefer to scratch build so it's my modelling ability (or lack of it) which has an impact on my preferred scale although I do like to go for larger prototypes which does tend to dictate a smaller scale anyway.

Colin

[tonyH]

Probably a daft question, but why was 1:35 invented?

Tony

[hama]

Colin, looking at your beautiful model of the Grenada I cant see that you would ever have any problems with detailing and accuracy. Have you showed her to us before, in detail? As for scale, sometimes you want to have a couple of boats in the same scale. Looks good on the shelf and in the water. Other than that I'd have to agree on those who said that the overall size of the model determines the scale.
Have a nice weekend!
Hama.

[Ron1]

I look at how do we transport the model, what room do we have.

I measure the room in the car and work out what scale im going to build it in.

For my Resolve I had 57 inches, so it worked out at 1/40 scale, a handy size for a tug.

[Bowwave]

The meaning of scale can be seen as a relative term.  I apply the philosophy  that if I can get  the model into my transport  with out doing damage  to me or my model  then that’s the right scale .
I occasionally hear the point  of view being expressed that models of larger scales are easier to build than those of smaller scale. But it could also be said that the larger the scale the more fine detail is exposed. Equally the smaller the scale the converse can apply. My advice for what it is worth would be to build what ever takes your fancy at what ever scale BUT don’t complain about it afterwards.
Bowwave 

[Edward Pinniger]

1/48 (or thereabouts) is my personal favourite scale for R/C models, it's large enough for fine details and fittings to be reasonably sturdy and durable, whilst not so big that you're limited to modelling small craft. And there are plenty of commercial fittings, along with usable bits from plastic kits (figures, armament, etc.), available in this scale.

[Martin13]

Personally, I prefer to build in larger scale as I have NO issues with transport ( I own a dual axle trailer), I have two large workshops and my main workbench is 20 feet long. Storage is not an issue and swmbo banned from placing her junk in my workshop.

The other reason being is that my eye sight ain't what it use to be and hands not as steady although Scotch helps. I have great problems in seeing really small stuff so the bigger the better.

I prefer to build in 1:72 scale although at the moment my Brave Borderer being build to 1:16 scale - 1800mm or 6 feet. As another member stated, its great to see a whole lot of boats built to a common scale as I am also a member of Task force 72

Due to scale, I tend to scratch build only as I prefer my models to be between 2400mm and 3600mm max, (8 - 12 feet). I like my models to have as much detail as possible - I like the model to look busy so the older WW1 to WW2 models preferred

My favourite is Grey Ships mainly RN Battleships. My ultimate aim is to have one of each class and hope to live long enough to achieve my goal.

My only problem down here is finding scale water or for that matter - any water....Ho Hum

Martin doon under

[Pierre]

Hi Colin
Like a couple of listers have already mentioned, I tend to look at the space in my car and build to that. As i usually like to take two models with me this generally means the models are about 800mm, maximum 1000mm in length.
As a scratch builder the difference in scale doesn't bother me too much, though possibly it would simplify life to have one constant scale ie.less calculations!
Cheers - Pierre