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[Prophet]

i was just curiouse it looked a lot lower then it should thats all , i have not seen the real boat nor the plans so i was clutching at straws about the waterline as long as your happy thats all that matters 

[tweety777]

Update:

A visiter who was looking quite closely to my model found out that most panels of the wheelhouse aren't properly aligned, causing trouble for the bridge-deck to fit.
After having seen some pics of a German modelbuilder who build a slightly similar wheelhouse of brass i decided i would do that too, and replace the old and mis-aligned wheelhouse by a proper brass one.
This is what i've started with.

Here the first parts are cut-out at roughly the right length.

All parts have been cut-out, but still need to be adjasted to eachother.

First parts adjasted to fit onto eachother.
The arrows indicate which corners are ready for soldering.

Done the first half.

Done all corners, and soldered the lot together.
The wooden plate will be used to make everything straight.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

According to a local weatherstation there would be a few dry hours today, so yesterday afternoon i've masked the hull as preparation for the painting.



Cut the first bar out for building sky-wards, but then i couldn't think of a proper solution to fix it for soldering.
In the end it seemes to be best to mount the panels first, and use those for fixing.
The panels will stop underneath the windows as the edges of the windows will be made of square bars.

Crew came in to check if everything is going well.

The inside will be made of Evergreen as the interior will be easier to be glued on it then.
I might place the panels with some hard to reach parts of the interior, but i'm not sure about that yet.

After some last checks i've painted the hull.






Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

Paint is dry, so i went on to the next stage: weathering.
I wanted to finish the weathering before i would apply the sealing, as the paint won't last long on top of the sealing.
The weathering is hardly visible in real, the external flash i've used made it much better visible.

Just look at the pics, they'll say enough:





Verder dan dit ga ik nu nog even niet, aangezien de romp dan omgedraaid moet worden.

Crew standing by for moving her to the completion-dock after highly needed maintance work in the drydock.
Unfortunatly the first thing i need to do after the weathering is completed is filling and sanding the superstructure, but after that it's gonna be fun!!!!!!!

Greetings Josse

[Ghost in the shell]

josse, get your anchor chains, and a beaker of salt water, soak the anchor chains in salt water. 

on things like the anchor port, try some brown cosmetics mixed with brown citadel and tamiya rust colour

[tweety777]

Hi Ghost,

Thanks for the advice, it sounds like a good idea.
When i've made the anchors i'll lay them in salt water as well to weather them.
The anchors will be made of brass, probebly filled with lead as i want to be able to anchor properly.

The weathering in the pics is just the start, it needs to be made of several layers to have more rust near it's source.
The higher holes in the hull haven't got any rust as i think that the rust will be long gone through the ports which are not far lower then those.

Greetings Josse

[Ghost in the shell]

malc from the blackpool club sails in salt water, his corvettes chains are seriously rusty.  you dont want a lot, just a layer of surface rust.  so just soak them for a day or so and let them dry.  they will then naturally rust on the model.  

however i have just read since i first mentioned about the rust that you want them running.  the chain that actually lowers the anchor leave that chain as-is, just simply dont clean it.  the chain visable on deck, that can be left to rust

[tweety777]

Hi Ghost,

There's also something else to keep in mind for the weathering of the anchors and anchorchains.
This is a DP3 ship, which means it's propulsion can keep her in place very much more accuratly then the anchors can, and therefore they'll probebly won't use the anchors so often.
Result: little rust on the anchors.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

As the painting of the hull is almost ready (first the weathering needs to be finished) it's now time to make the superstructure look as good as the hull does.
Here i've replaced a side-panel as the first one was too small.
I'm planning to put in brass bars soon to strengthen the superstructure and for powersupply.

Continued the work on the front side of the superstructure.

Tweety has been on board as well today.

Greetings Josse

[malcolmfrary]

When i've made the anchors i'll lay them in salt water as well to weather them.
The anchors will be made of brass, probebly filled with lead as i want to be able to anchor properly.

Brass anchors wont rust, they'll just go a nasty shade of green.  Best to weather them with a paintbrush.

[tweety777]

Hi Malcolm,

Yes, that's true, how could i have forgotten that.........
Then i indeed will weather them using paint.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

The escape-route on the front of the superstructure still wasn't finished, so i've made some new parts to complete that.
All i need to do now is fill and sand this, and then it's ready for painting.

At the rear of the main superstructure were still 2 ventilation-shafts to be build, so i've started making those as well.

Ventilation-shaft ready for placing.

Placed the first ventilation-shaft.



Parts for the second ventilation-shaft.

This one needed some help to get on the right place.
These ventilation-shafts are going through the deck underneath them, but those parts are still to be made.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

I had started at the other side with adding plastic panels to make this look neat, and to make it easier to glue the new plastic decks on it.
The rear panel has now also been made of plastic as there are still 2 ventilation-shafts to come out here.

Ventilation-shafts attached.

The walls and shafts turned out to be not quite well aligned, but there's no decent way to correct this.
Instead i'll try to find a way to make it look like it could be done that way, for example making the lower shaft wider or give it a knuckle.

Here i've cut out the wooden deck, and that's been replaced by a plastic deck now.
Needed to increase the height of the panels, so i've added a wooden plank.



Another place for a lifeboat.
This is picture 1725 in the web-album.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

Placed the other new deck-part.

Another ventilation-shaft under construction.
This 1 will come at the side of the superstructure.

The same shaft in place.

Made some new platforms.



And for now the last platform.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

Another ventilation-shaft under construction.
This one is a little harder then the other ones.

The shaft with the used glue and the captain.

Lower part placed.
Next time i'll use a higher F-number, the sharpness is now pretty low.

The much easier upper part under construction.

Entire shaft in place.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Update:

As the painting is now far enough, and all the paint has cured i went to check is the repairs on the propulsion really work.





Steering went a lot better then before as there's no room anymore in the schottels.
The blade of the bowthruster unfortunatly isn't so well attached to it's shaft anymore, making the bowthruster useless.







That's it for now.

Greetings Josse

[tweety777]

Finaly i got some time for modelbuilding again, so here are some pics:

Finaly I managed to attached the cilinder for moving the crane-arm up and down to a servo.
At this moment I don't yet know how I will stop the upper part from turning, as the connection to the crane-arm probebly will get quite a lot of stress on it anyway, making it useless for stopping the cilinder from turning.
Therefore i'll need something in the crane-house which it can move up and down through, that isn't visible at the outside, but does stop it from turning.


The deck on top of the dive-area has bended quite a lot, so I wanted to make that straight.
To do so I made this bar by glueing to wooding planks on top of eachother, so they'll make 1 very stiff bar.

Started strengthening the superstructure, but to do so I first needed to remove some decks, leaving the superstructure as a construction-lot.

To strengthen the corners of the plastic outer-superstructure i've made a L-profile from brass.
Therefore the strengthening is still pretty thin, but is still effective, and i can use it for passing through electricity if needed.

Attached some more reinforcements.

Here the removeable decks.

Greetings Josse

[Ghost in the shell]

josse, looking at the boat in the water, i think you need to move some of the ballast around to get her sitting down a bit more at the stern, she's sitting a tad nose heavy

[tweety777]

Maybe putting less ballast in the bow.
Why she appears to be laying deeper with the bow do I not know, but the draught forward and aft seemed to be pretty good.
This ship should be laying a bit nose-heavy when not having cargo on board because of the huge superstructure, but this seems to be too much.

Greetings Josse

[Ghost in the shell]

hi Josse,

Leave the bow alone, but make the stern heavier, (either by moving the weight in the mid section further aft, OR by adding some weight to the stern section

[malcolmfrary]

When under way, the ship would be ballasted to be an even keel fore and aft, as well as getting rid of any list, so yes, either move some weight towards the stern or just add some back there.

[tweety777]

Hi Ghost,

The stern really is laying good, that point is really easy to see, the transom must just touch the water with it's lowest point.
The bulbous bow probebly still is a bit above the water, as it was while she was under construction as well.

Greetings Josse

[Ghost in the shell]

hi Josse,

your inner cabin structure is individual decks that you have slid out, this may be an answer, keeping the wheelhouse ONLY, spray the inside black, then white, then glaze it, and put some L-section on the upper edges and vertical surfaces and put a lid on ithe ship.  You could then take the internal decks and make them into a seperate model.  I found the wooden bridge i used to core Nord Icelandia is a bit heavy, I can't do anything with that without resorting to surgery, you however thanks to slide out decks can.  

For added stiffness you can always add some styrene cross braces that will act as dividers.  You can then make another hull 300mm long and open at each end to show people what the hull is like, a sort of cross section, and then use the decks with that.

Also, by removing the wooden inner decks, you will be removing a substantial ammount of weight, and so could then possibly remove some ballast from the bow without seriously affecting stability because the lighter top hasn't got the leverage of the old wooden interior

[tweety777]

Hi Ghost,

Thanks for the advice.
Because the outer plates really aren't thick enough to hold anything i'll have to use inside the superstructure to make it stronger.
Besides that I also want to be able to turn on and off the lights in individual cabins for sailing at night, so there must be some cabin-structure inside.
Today i've started making the cabins which will strengthen the superstructure, but which will also be easily accessable to show some parts of the interior.
The cabins with interior are chosen such that none of them is blocking the view at another room.
The other cabins will be build together as 4 seperate parts, 1 fixed underneath the port cabins, 1 fixed underneath the starboard cabins, 1 above the port cabins and removeable, and 1 above the starboard cabins and also removeable.
Here are some pics showing the progress:

Tried to make the deck of the dive-area flat again.



Everything ready to start sanding the decks to make them fit inside the superstructure again.

The constructionlot.
To strengthen the superstructure i'll be using the cabins with interior and the cabins with only lights that are underneath the first cabins.

This is the first cabin under construction.

Second cabin under construction as well.
I want to have the cabins in place pretty soon so I can put the bridge deck back in it's place.

Every cabin has a shower and toilet, and here i'm building the first wall of the bathroom.
The bathrooms won't be build, although i'm thinking about fitting 1 with a cloud of steam to hide a speaker which is to make the sound of someone singing while taking a very warm shower.

Here is the second wall of the bathroom.

Greeings Josse

[tweety777]

Short update before going to bed:

I couldn't believe black paint would help all to much, but as I want to have at least the walls and floors of the cabins painted before placing them I decided to paint them black first, and while I was applying the paint I noticed that the light from the 20W holagen light behind it was immediatly was being stopped by just a small and thin layer of black paint.
The difference is clealry visible in these 2 pics.

The bathroom of the second cabin is also finished.
Note the enormous difference between painted black and no paint at all.

Greetings Josse