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[fullboat]

I am considering using waterslide decals that I can print myself on Hull etc once painted.
I would use a clear Acrylic finish over the top of decals after applied  .

Good idea or not to use these type of decals   ?

I know you can get vinyl decals but would prefer to print my own .

Andy

[boatmadman]

I have done the same with success, used acrlic clear spray over the decal before putting them on the boat - 3 thin coats.

Then, once on the boat a light coat of spray satin varnish.

Ian

[fullboat]

Thanks Ian.

I will order the waterslide paper.

I only just discovered you could do these decals yourself.

Brilliant idea I think


Andy

[fullboat]

Not as brilliant as I thought though.........

Printing solid colours and in particular printing white is a big problem.

What was i thinking

I was wanting to place these decals on the hull with the usual boat name and port etc
all of these are painted in white.

OPTIONS

1/ print on white decal paper leaving where the lettering goes white and attempting to match the rest of decal colour to surrounding paint (maybe possible)

2/ premade vinyl decals (most likely)

3/ stencils 

4/ attempt to hand paint 

5/ ask what ModelBoat Mayhem would do..............






 

[oldiron]

I've done custom painting, over the years, for the model railroad fraternity, and used water slide decals extensively. May I suggest a few tips no matter what type of water slide decal you use.
1 - make sure the paint surface you are about to apply the decal to is glossy
2 - trim the decal as close to the characters as possible
3 - leave the decal in water until the decal film floats free of the backing paper (this is contradictory to most decal instructions)
4 - using the backing paper, lift the decal film from the water and apply and position the decal in the desired location. Slip the backing paper from under the decal
5 - using a tissue, absorb excess water from under the decal through capillary action
6 - use a decal setting solution such as Walther's Solvaset, and apply the solution lightly on top of the decal, but also ensure that it gets under the decal through capillary action.
7 - don't touch the decal until it has set up
8 - if any white areas appear in the decal film (air under the decal) gently slice through with a sharp knife and apply a small amount of Solvaset and let set.
9 - gently wipe over the dried decal with a damp tissue to remove residue.
10 - spray the decal, and model with the desired clear finish (gloss, matte, semi gloss....whatever). let stand to dry.
11 - job done

  The decal is applied over a gloss surface to reduce the amount of air that can get trapped under the decal and cause a white tinge on the clear decal film. It also ensures the decal is firm down against the surface to be decaled. The application of the Solvaset softens the decal and sets it into the paint. When this process is done and the clear finish applied the decal won't come off and it virtually disappears into the paint. It is also very durable, much more so than vinyl transfers.
  The attached picture shows a CPR HO scale SD40 I painted and lettered for a customer using the above technique.

John

[tigertiger]

I echo what full set has said.

Also there are several types of paper.
Laserjet, inkjet.
White paper, clear paper.

Laser jet printers need laser jet paper. This colour is water fast.

I have an inkjet printer. And my experience was as follows

After printing, you need to coat the paper in lacquer before immersing in water, otherwise the ink runs.
Then apply as mentioned above, no problem.

Using the clear paper, light colors are not good on a dark background, the darker colour dominates. Light colours are not effective on dark backgounds but may be fine aon lighter backgounds but expect the base amterials colour to show through.

If planning on using light colours you will need to use the white paper.
Using the white paper, means you will have a white background to your motif. This may be ok but needs planing.

Be careflul with you print layout, otherwise you may use a whole sheet for just a few decals (expensive), you need to plan a little with layout and re-use of the paper in mind. Perhaps always printing at the bottom of the remainder of the sheet, this way the paper can feed through the printer, even if short.

The picture below is printed gold on clear paper. It is shown on a medium blue background. Very disapointing.
The yellow was almost invisible.

[tigertiger]

Question for old iron, how did you get white letters?

[oldiron]

Question for old iron, how did you get white letters?

  The decals in this case were commercially available and not printed on a computer printer. I think they use a silk screen process. Up to now I don't think they have white ink  in computer printers. unfortunate.

John

[oldiron]

Another way of doing lettering although I have to try it, is to get vinyl lettering made. Remove the letters and discard. Place the vinyl sheet with the letter openings in, on the place where you need the lettering applied. Then spry/brush the desired colour over the lettering area. Remove the vinyl. In this case the vinyl becomes the mask for the lettering to be painted.

John

[hazegry]

You need an alps printer. The printers are discontinued and hard to find but they due come up on ebay once in a while and go for around 1500.00 or you can use a printing service http://www.tangopapadecals.com/ these guys have made decals for my rockets before never used them for boats but having them make them for you might be easier in the long run.

[Malcolm Reade]

It is worthy of mention that BECC vinyl lettering and decal products can be applied in a similar manner to water slide transfers.

Wet the surface that is to receive the lettering using a drop of washing-up liquid in the water, and the lettering will slide into the desired position.  Squeegee the lettering down, and leave to dry.  24 hours later it will be fully waterproof, no lacquer needed.

Vinyl products do not slide as easily as water slide transfers, but the desired results are easily achieved.

Malc

[fullboat]

I have researched the printing of white lettering on clear waterslide decals sheet and as stated the Alps printer appears to be the only one that is capable of printing in white.
Pity.
Was very excited thinking I could produce the white lettering I needed myself.
Another problem I have since discovered is that inkjet printers rely heavily on the white background of the printable medium to produce the colours they do as ink is largely transparent.
Thus the designs created may not be reproduced correctly on a clear waterslide.
However it may be possible with some printers and the right software to convince the printer to pass over the print more than once giving deeper colours and helping to eliminate the transparency effect of the ink.
Anyway I have received some clear waterslide decal so I will experiment a bit.
Vinyl may be the way to go for white lettering.
I'll see what BECC has to offer as recommended by Malcolm as well

Andy

[Shipmate60]

For white lettering/numbering I have used thin self adhesive white A4 sheets of white viny in a bubble jet printerl.
Just print the other colours.

Bob

[Colin Bishop]

I visited BECC a couple of weeks or so back for a forthcoming arrticle in Model Boats. If they do what you need in their standard range then I think it is a no brainer as the vinyl they use is hardly thicker than a coat of paint and is waterproof once applied although you can varnish over it if you want. As Malcolm says, the lettering is positionable if you are careful.

They are willing to do one off commissions if you can supply the artwork for scanning and will give you a quote for this if you email them direct.

Colin

[fullboat]

Thanks Colin ,
I'm sure your right and will see what they have.

over and out

Andy

[DickyD]

I use Barrys Model Lettering for all my decals.

Excellent, fast and personal service.

Unit 80
Conduit Street
Leicester
LE2 0JN
0116 2756158
www.modellettering.com

He also does the decals for the Model Slipway lifeboats.

[fullboat]

Thanks DD
I'd ride my push-bike over and have a look but Leicester is a bit far from Adelaide.
I don't think I'd get there before lunch. 

I've ordered online
thanks all for advice 

I wish it was easier to get stuff like that here in OZ
I order most fittings online from the UK
It does make visiting the letterbox more fun though, better than just seeing bills all the time....

[Malcolm Reade]

Thanks DD
I'd ride my push-bike over and have a look but Leicester is a bit far from Adelaide.
I don't think I'd get there before lunch. 

I've ordered online
thanks all for advice 

I wish it was easier to get stuff like that here in OZ
I order most fittings online from the UK
It does make visiting the letterbox more fun though, better than just seeing bills all the time....

Both ourselves (Reade Models) and BECC supply Float A Boat in Ringwood, Victoria, 3134.  It might be quicker to order directly from them?

Regards,

Malcolm Reade

www.reademodels.com

[Damien]

http://www.floataboat.com.au/index.htm
and their cattledog of fittings, in pdf format.
http://www.floataboat.com.au/Ship%20Fittings%20Cat.pdf

Adrian and Rhonda Brewer are excellent to deal with.
They also stock a huge collection of plans and stuff thats not on the catalogue and answer emails quickly.
Damien.

[fullboat]

Thanks Damien and Malcolm I'll certainly have a look

Cheers

OOoooooo They do have a lot.........

[Philipsparker]

I used print it yourself waterslide transfers on my boat "Little Miss Minty". They worked really well and were much easier to use than vynl and cheaper than a custome set too ! A few coats of clear varnish made them waterproof.

More on my model making blog: http://philsworkbench.blogspot.com/2006/10/name-that-boat.html



Phil

[tigertiger]

I used print it yourself waterslide transfers on my boat "Little Miss Minty". They worked really well and were much easier to use than vynl and cheaper than a custome set too ! A few coats of clear varnish made them waterproof.

For use on a white/light background, the DIY will absolutely spot on.
It is only the dark backgrounds that cause problems.

[KitS]

With large white letters, say larger than 2" high, I've had some success with drawing the outline of the letters in black with my PC's graphics s/w. Then printing that sheet out on white inkjet paper before laboriously cutting out the shapes just inside the outline. It's OK so long as there are no very sharp curves, then the irregularities of your cutting are only too obvious on the finished model.

[malcolmfrary]

For white lettering on a dark background, PAINT THE AREA WHERE THE DECAL IS GOING WHITE.  Then print the decal the background colour, with the letters in white, or, as it happens, transparent.  After applying, paint in as close to the lettering as you dare.

[cling-on-bop]

I Have some Airfix letters i want to affix, apart from putting them on, what makes of varnish will not destroy the decals? I believe i have a small paint tin of varnish by humbrol, is this any use.

As a kid i used to paint the model and before it set, applied the decal, never came off (never touched water though  ).