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[dreadnought72]

...but don't pour a big pool of resin in one go. It gets very hot and could distort the hull.

Andy

[oldiron]

...but don't pour a big pool of resin in one go. It gets very hot and could distort the hull.

Andy

Good point.

John

[nhp651]

as simple as oldiron has said.

It's not really rocket science, just a self belief in what you are doing feels right to you.

Basically how we all learn. Bit of trial and error, but making sure you can rectify those errors.

If you feel that when you put into the hole some resin it might be too much, a simple tip.....greese with vaseline the areas you are going to fill, blanking off at the front and back of the hole with plastecine modelling clay.

Put into the area to be filmed and onto the grease, some cling film.

Pour into the area covered with cling film, your resin.

Once hardened, the resin block mould can be removed and trimmed down if too heavy...Latteral thinking.

[monarch]

Thanks, but you mention not pouring in to much a one go being a newbie what is to much 1/2", 1" or more?

Also will the old fibreglass foundation need cleaning first

Confused  Monarch 

[nhp651]

the secret to ballasting your boat is to put it in the bath and weigh it down to where you want it to sit in the water with lead shot, or small pieces of lead, or sand (all put into small freezer bags), but not forgwetting that such things as batteries, engines r/c gear all also weigh. Ballast where you want the boat to sit, and then deduct from that weight the r/c gear and batteries and such. what you are left with is the ballast weight. then take it out and weigh it. substitute any weight that you take out for resin by also weighing this.
Once you have the items weighed you can then put them back into the places you need as you did in the bath.

[oldiron]

nhp651 is right on.
 I just weighted my Smit Nederland this weekend. The only difference I did (as a matter of personal preference) is to install the radio gear and battery, then put in the weight in the seal able freezer bags, so I didn't have to continually pull the bags in and out of the hull, I placed them on the deck to check the hull was down to the water line. I adjusted the amount of weight in the bags accordingly. Then I placed the bags in their home in the hull, along with all the rest of the bits to make the boat run, including the superstructure. It took me longer to get water into the bath than it did to weight it.
  After I've done a sea trial I'll pull the bags, pour in some resin and reinstall the bags.

John

[monarch]

Thanks all but I need to know how much fibreglass to pour in in one go, 1/2", 1" or more then when do I add the second layer whilst tacky or completely dry. Don't wish to distort the hull.

Also do I need to know wether to clean the fibreglass first before pouring the first layer.

Monarch

[nhp651]

i don't honestly understand what you're wanting to do, monarch.
perhaps you can tell us.

but if you are just trying to fill an area to level it off, then just mix an amount and pour in, keeping the boat on a level and even keel,

it's just trial and error as to how much you pour in, and if to little, ,mix some more and pour in.

setting time is  on how mch hardener you put in, but if you keep to recommended amount on instructions you won't distort the hull.

but don't forget, your ballast must be as low as possible. ie, under the resin you want to pour in.

you can pur in one amount on top of another without the first lot having gone off.

as for cleaning, remove any grease with warm soapy water and then sand the area to be filled for a key.
neil.

[monarch]

Hi nhp651
Just what I needed, I will check ballast first and build batt boxes in as low as poss.

Just left with the bath tub test after the hull is repainted and where nearly there.
Thanks so much for all the helpful advice.

Monarch