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[dgp1957]

guys
stupid question i know, but what is the best way to transfer plans onto building material, i was thinkin of scanning the plans in, printin them off then gluing them onto the wood/plastic?

David

[Rex Hunt]

Thats just about what I have done for my Hermes build.

If you can get a piece of acetate (Vu-Foil material used in training aids),
Mark a couple of bright lines at 90 degrees to each other and 10cm long on it.

If you then put that on the scanner bed before placing the plans on to copy,
when you later print out the 'working plans' you have a built in check as to scale!

(You may otherwise wind up with some distortion of the original measurements)

Rex

[Liverbudgie2]

Also when attaching the paper to the material, if that is what print out on, use a solvent based glue, not water based ptherwise you will end up with some pretty odd shapes.

LB

[dougal99]

Tracing paper works well as well as carbon paper (remember that). I have used both and the copy method. I found that the copy method can leave you with some work to remove the pasted plan from the work piece after cutting out.

You can also prick through (only works with wood I suppose) I haven't used this method but have sen it described many times.

HTH

Doug

[Proteus]

go to a plan copier shop they charge about £3.00 to do one I get a couple done so I can cut the plan view from the side view and have nice strips I can roll out when needed to look at the plan as apposed to fighting with it, you can then put your original away so no glue or paint on it , if you scan from home pc you MAY and I only say may find a difference from the original in hight to width this way you know there are no discrepancies when you come to build.  spray glue used for picture mounting is good to fix to wood, but don't go mad.

Proteus

[Greggy1964]

The traditional method I was taught works, this entails keeping all the sides of your uncreased cereal boxes (you end up shopping for the larger cereals in the supermarket) and you need a sharp dress makers pin or the point of a set of compasses.

The card is taped to the back side of the plan with de-tacked masking tape to avoid tearing the paper plans and the half form of the particular frame you are working on is pricked off through the plan onto the card including the centreline, deck profile and any other required feature.

The cardboard is removed from tha back of the plan and a pair of scissors are taken in hand we cut dot to dot until the form is cut out. Obviously on tight curves the pin pricks will be closely spaced but on straighter runs the can be farther apart.

Its a simple case of placing this on your wood, drawing around with a sharp pencil or fine tipped marker and then flipping over on the centre line and drawing the other half.

The plan is unharmed except for some tiny pin prick holes and you have a set of molds should any of your mates fall in love with your boat and want one!

[Hagar]

If you can scan the pland in to your PC and also have access to a laser printer the solution is at hand.
Print the plans out on the laser printer, put the print face down onto the wood/plastic or what ever, and iron it with a warm cloths iron. If you flip the image befor you print it out that text will also be the right way round!

The 'ink' in laser printers is thermoplastic toner, thus ideal for doing warm transfers with.
And you can print a line only a fwe pixels thin, so nice and accurat too.