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Author Topic: Actions cassette motor and speed controler  (Read 2856 times)

biggles1

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Actions cassette motor and speed controler
« on: August 13, 2009, 09:38:51 pm »

Hi Dodgy Triton build on hold as off on hols for 2 weeks. I was thinking of using Actions cassette motor and speed controler I have used these in my slipway trawler , which is about the same size. Might use a 280 size motor what brushed motors have you used?  Dave
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dodgy geezer

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Re: Actions cassette motor and speed controler
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2009, 01:16:40 pm »

Hmm... I have lots of brushed motors over here from recovered kit of various kinds. A problem with cassette motors and other low-current types is that they often have low-friction high-quality precious metal brushes made out of thin wire - great for smooth running and low friction but liable to fail after a lot of heavy current surges of the kind you get when you run into weeds. 

My brushless thread was investigating this issue. Part of the problem is that most EeZeBilt hulls are not really intended for high-speed running - they need an upward sweep to the chine and only the Terrier has that. My Terrier uses a 280 - I would have gone for something a little larger for the Triton, which has better battery-carrying capability. I suppose it depends if you want to chug around quietly all day, or chase the IC boys....
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dodgy geezer

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Re: Actions cassette motor and speed controler
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2009, 01:40:43 pm »

By the way - were you also asking about leaving off the 'outer keel'? I did this with all my EeZeBilts when I found that the outer keel/bottom skin joint was difficult to seal.

I enclose a poor pic showing the business end of my old Terrier, about 40 years old now! You can see that, though much of the paint is wearing away, the joint betwen the two bottom skins is strong.

Doing this means you need a prop tube support. A simple strip of brass (or copper, here) suffices.

And you can also see the rudder tube with a patch of copper soldered on at the bottom end for strength, bent a bit to fit the bottom V and then well epoxied. That has lasted 40 years as well without leaking. Mind you (most of the last 35 have been on a shelf, but still....) 

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