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[Rocketman]

hi all

Ok stoopid newbie question re ballast. Ive got my Snowberry now, fited the rudder and the prop shaft, now I need to ballast her. What to use ? and seeing as its a popular kit someone must know in terms of gsms just how much to put in?

any help appreciated.

k

[Rocketman]

Actually most of my answers are here already http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1320.0

BUT , what to use? any thoughts?

ta

k

[oldiron]

I've used shot gun pellets. I don't know if they're available in the UK or not. Lately I put them in sealable sandwich bags and put the bags in the appropriate location. That way I can remove a bag to trim weight without having to cause internal destruction on the hull to remove weight. If you decide to afix the material in place permanently I pour fiberglass resin over the pellets to seal them into place.

John

[malcolmfrary]

The entire boat needs to weigh about 6lb, nearly 3Kg.  The best start is the battery, a nice 6v 4AH lead acid is a good start.  NiMH will pack more AH but will probably cost more and need more ballast.
Having access to some scrap lead pipe and a big hammer, my preference is strip thumped to shape.  Most theraputic.  The shot in bags (preferably those small self sealing ones)works.  You get the option of shuffling them about for trim them either sticking the bags or shot in place.  Others have been known to use bagged (or boxed) nails.  The original, by repute, used about 30 tons of railway buffers in the bilges as stabilising ballast.

[Mark47]

Depending how much I need to ballast, I use 3,5,6 or 9oz sea fishing weights.

Mark

[barriew]

If you can't get lead shot from a local supplier, you can get it from here - http://www.leadshotballast.co.uk/

I don't think resin would be a good idea in a plastic hull - it could melt it.

Barrie

[Voyager]

Strips of lead roofing tiles isn't a bad thing to use, it's fairly cheap too. Though leads shots are better for difficult to reach areas, not only that but it keeps the weight way down low in the hull for better handling.

[DickyD]

I used lead flashing in mine because it can be moulded to the shape of the hull. I also use a 7.2V 3700mAh battery pack.

Mark your waterline and then add weight where needed to bring the ship down to the water line. Do this in bath.

[dougal99]

Do this in bath.

Dicke, of course, means the domestic test tank   

[Tom@Crewe]

I just used 2 x 6v 4AH lead acid cell and no other ballast, and got double running time

[Turbulent]

Superb paint job & should be in the "most realistic" thread

[Voyager]

Agreed 

[dodgy geezer]

I just used 2 x 6v 4AH lead acid cell and no other ballast, and got double running time

Yup - I also used twin batteries. The second does the smoke.

The ballast problem for the Revell Corvette is getting it far enough back. People tend to spread themselves in the engine room with the radio and motor, and there isn't much space left behind this. So the batteries go forward, and the bow dips. Then you're forced to use lead pellets because they're the only thing that will fit the small spaces at the stern.

If ballasting is considered at the start of the build, a useful tip is to mount the motor as far back as possible, so that useful ballast in the shape of batteries can be carried amidships....