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[red_noir]

exhaust deflectors ! LOL What I thought it looked cool ! 

[HS93 (RIP)]

you normally run the exhaust up the centre of the chimney to accelerate the gases to make the flue more efficient, that may slow it down.

Peter

[red_noir]

hmm good point I guess we will have to see if its an issue ! if so I have a second pipe !

[benjaml1]

Too much draft is as bad as not enough, by increasing the air velocity you may also require air dampers/restrictors. It's not solid fuel we're burning.. Without instrumentation I would use trial & error to find the optimum ( no choice really, actually an obvious statement. ) Try without assisted draft & if you're not happy then maybe with..... The burner will tell you when it's not happy...

One mans viewpoint, not carved in stone...

[andywright]

Mike Abbot at Maccsteam advice is not to have the steam exhaust pipe to short in the flue , it may drag the fire out, I  have mine about 1/4 inch below the top of the flue, not had any chance to experiment and shorten it anymore
If any one else has tried shortening it we would like to know the result. Glad you got yours running well, it took me ages to get mine right, now it is really free. I still think it could do with a fettle, there is a slight delay starting in one direction compared to the other, I think maybe one of the eccentrics has moved slightly, but, I am waiting for my hex  bolt kit.
Andy

[HS93 (RIP)]

Mike Abbot at Maccsteam advice is not to have the steam exhaust pipe to short in the flue , it may drag the fire out, I  have mine about 1/4 inch below the top of the flue, not had any chance to experiment and shorten it anymore
If any one else has tried shortening it we would like to know the result. Glad you got yours running well, it took me ages to get moine right, now it is really free. I still mthink it could do with a fettle, but I am waiting for my hex  bolt kit.
Andy

Cheddar have theres in a similar place just below the top, that is why I was wondering about the flaps as it would be blowing directly on to it.

Peter

[red_noir]

Well I finished most of the plumbing yesterday ! the tvr1a has a few hours of run time on it and all in all Im very pleased !

Im just lookin for a boat to put her in now 

[kno3]

Very nice plant and neat piping there. What did you use to make the body of the condenser?

[red_noir]

I used two one inch copper pipe end caps with a section of pipe in between them, the cap is made from old Midwest heritage steam engine fill bushing that I drilled for the stand pipe !

[gondolier88]

Hi Red Noir,

What a wonderful job you're making of that plant- i'm with you on thinking the brass and copper looks great 'naked'- you may change your mind when you find out just how difficult it is to keep a hot oily steamplant clean when it's painted, let alone bare metal.

Just wondering what solder you used on your condenser and pipe joints?

Greg

[red_noir]

Just wondering what solder you used on your condenser and pipe joints?

Greg

hey Greg

I used silver solder on all my joints !

Im really enjoying the bare metal look and its simple to keep clean, I'm beginning to enjoy the non shinny look its taking on !

[derekwarner]

Beautiful work Red Noir......I love the pipework  ....& I assume those are Winfried Niggle round 4 x bolt flanges 

Oh....& yes the components build is also superb 

Traditional last century marine steam pipework [spool runs] were generally in the vertical or horizontal planes with minimal bend sweeps other that 90 degrees or 180 degrees 

However in OZ we are taught to call a spade a spade ....so  ..

I question the positioning of the Forrest Classics gas regulator .......but not just from a visual 

1. Is the diaphragm in the regulator OK  for 150 degrees C continuous rating? ...as the pilot appears to be from the steam dome
2. A lower boiler water take off point pressure source could be as low as 105 degrees C
3. A further advantage of using a fluid [water] as the pilot signal over a gas [steam].....is far greater stability of the pressure source without high frequency pressure oscillation's

Still a brilliant job.........Derek 

[benjaml1]

Excellent work....  


Although I do agree with Derek ( on all accounts) that there should be a water (condensate) column isolating the diaphragm. Same reason you use a pigtail/syphon with pressure gauges on steam duty... A simple U-bend/hairpin bend would accommodate without major pipe changes..

[Bunkerbarge]

Depending on which source you prefer to believe it seems that Viton rings are good for well over 200 degrees C and the seals in the Forest Classic attenuator are Viton, the diaphragm is metal.  At a guess and without the benefit of steam tables to hand I would say the boiler shell should be at something like 120-130 degrees C.  Anyone with a set of steam tables feel free to correct that!

Anyway bottom line, I have recently installed a Forest Classics attenuator actually on the boiler shell and after about 2-3 hours of running have had no challenges so far.  An option could be to upgrade to silicon seals but I'm hoping I don't need to and it will continue to work reliably.

If it fails I'll let you know but I've already had a chat with the chap who makes the valve and he doesn't see any reason why they shouldn't be mounted on the shell.

[yogojr]

Where would one find Winfried Niggle flanges. A quick search on Google only yielded this forum.

thanks in advance

[kno3]

Where would one find Winfried Niggle flanges. A quick search on Google only yielded this forum.

thanks in advance

Here:
http://www.modellbau-niggel.de/Flansch-Verbindungen-c20.html

[red_noir]

Hmmm

I never realized that the regulator should be on the wet side. Ive noticed that the regulator doesn't seem to work the way its meant to either.

I added a photo, the green line represents where I could move the sense line to.

also the flanges are really nice addition to this project, the only down side I see to them is the tiny bolts and nuts they use ! I made a socket for them by heating up a piece of pipping and forcing the bolt head into it deforming it and making a wrench !

[gondolier88]

Alternatively, as with a pressure gauge supply pipe, just coil it to make a condensate trap.

Greg

[Bunkerbarge]

Hmmm

I never realized that the regulator should be on the wet side. Ive noticed that the regulator doesn't seem to work the way its meant to either.

I have two of these attenuators, one mounted directly on the boiler in a boat and the other one via a take off from a branch on the top in a lorry.  Both are connected to the steam space not water and both work fine.  The one I have fitted to the lorry was actually fitted by the guy who makes the valves so I'm not sure why we are thinking that there is a requirement to connect the boiler side to the water space.

[red_noir]

this is the instructions I got with the valve  ! seems self explanatory to me !

[mogogear]

Here:
http://www.modellbau-niggel.de/Flansch-Verbindungen-c20.html

Thanks Calin--that is a great source--I so wish someone on the US would carry / stock offer all the steam goodies that are so plentiful in Europe / other side of the pond

[derekwarner]

Interestingly, neither Forrest Classics, Anton nor JMC mention an operational temperature range for the regulator or pilot fluid....when I asked Anton if the diaphragm was Viton....[prior to my purchase of a V71 regulator] the answer came back...NO ...neoprene

Anton also clearly depicts the pilot source as lower boiler water ...so if it leaves the boiler @105 degrees C....it  will cool down to say 70 degrees C @ the regulator which is fine for the neoprene ....whereas Forrest Classics implies the pilot source is from a steam dome  >>:-

I understand this is a little of track....but it is interesting to see & hear how various manufacturers deal with the same issue ...... ....Derek

[derekwarner]

Red Noir says........Ive noticed that the regulator doesn't seem to work the way its meant to either....

I have had one issue with Forrest Classics about a defective gas tank discharge valve

The tank was purchased through a third party. however I dealt with the principal of Bix/Forrest Classics & I found their response excellent...

If you have a question on the functionality...why not post a few questions back to them ....with their response we all may learn  ......Derek

[Bunkerbarge]

Red Noir says........Ive noticed that the regulator doesn't seem to work the way its meant to either....

I have had one issue with Forrest Classics about a defective gas tank discharge valve

The tank was purchased through a third party. however I dealt with the principal of Bix/Forrest Classics & I found their response excellent...

If you have a question on the functionality...why not post a few questions back to them ....with their response we all may learn  ......Derek

That's precisely why I spoke to the man who makes the valve.  He was extreemly helpful but I agree Derek, it's interesting to see how different manufacturers deal with the same issue.  I guess at the end of the day there is no right or wrong way but whatever works for you.

I'd be a bit more concerned with the comment that the valve doesn't work the way it's meant to.  There are a couple of things to bear in mind though.

Firstly it’s not always obvious just what’s happening with the flame if you can’t see it so the valve may be turned down to the pilot jet but it is still actually putting heat into the boiler, although comparatively little.  If the pilot jet is a little too large you may still experience the safety lifting after the model remains stationary for a while.  This can be rectified by using a smaller pilot jet however there becomes a risk of the flame going out if the pilot jet is too small for the operating conditions.

Secondly operating temperatures do have an effect on the valve setting so if you set the valve up in a nice warm workshop then take the model out into a very cold ambient temperature, the set point may well not remain the same, or certainly as in the case of the Forest Classics unit which uses a metal diaphragm.

If you could tell us exactly how it is not working we might be able to point you in the right direction.

[red_noir]

I believe the problem was. That I was running the boiler at very low pressures ! my Tvr1a ran so well at 10 psi that I wouldn't let the boiler get up to high enough pressures for the regulator to do its job !

Last night, I allowed it to reach forty psi and set the regulator for that and I could hear the gas go to a lower setting at 40 psi. it seems to be working as advertised but I need to do a few more runs to work out the bugs.