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[Prophet]

Shafts are 2.5 " from the center of the keel leaving 3.5" to the edge of the hull rudders are a tad oversize however they will need altering to allow for full rotation due to the hulls angle so currently they look a big bit but fitting up they look pretty good in proportion, its hard to judge them until water trials where meds might be needed but until that point i believe the large rudders with 50mm props will do the job more then adequately.

Overall I aim to achieve a good representation of the original however practicality in a model has to come first other wise it just becomes a spectacular floating rock!

[Prophet]

uff forgot to say ..


prop are 2.5" keel ... and from transom 8"

hope that helps

[triumphjon]

thank you , ive shortened an old outer shaft down tonight , so now have a pair of 8" m5 shafts  that i can drill my hull & bond them in in the morning if its not raining ! as for rudders i now make my own as the shop here never seems to have much stock . im useing 4mm brass bar for the shafts , some k&s tube that a sliding fit over my bar stock the blades are 1.5 -2 mm brass sheet cut & soldered into slots cut into the bar stock . with my other models i always link both rudders together then have another linkage to the servo thats fitted between the rudder posts .  jon

[Prophet]

I haven't decided on the rudder movement assembly just yet, wether i attempt a duel link to a servo or i go with a bar then link to servo it will depend  a lot on the position of the servo which i hope will sit under the rear seat/step at the rear of the boat( part of the superstructure) . i got a pic for position ...

depending if the servo can sit in that small space and work effectively will allow me to decide what method i use to turn the rudders

[Perkasaman2]

Hi Prophet, there's no reason why the rudder servo has to be vertically mounted, it can lay on it's side close to the hull bottom and chop off the redundant/unused horns where space or location is limited. Previous builds have found that the rudders don't require a wide arc of movement and  the double prop wash on the twin rudders will assist turning.Twin stick steering using twin/seperate esc to give independant control of each prop enables superb handling with practice. (You could even  mount the rudder servo in the cabin with a longer tie-rod running under the rear well-deck.)  

[Prophet]

Clearly mounting the servo in the cabin section is a great idea with the use of extension arms and this may be a possibility if i cannot get a servo with a longish cable ( i tend to avoid extending cables as much as possible ) right now my plan is to mount it in the step for easier access and on the spot adjustments by simply lifting a flap and moving the arms position my other concern is creating more hole in the bulk head for the rods to poke through but given this boat will put a lot of force through the rudders I'm worried about folding up the servo rods if there at a decent length i mean currently if i was to mount in the cabin the rods would be in the region of 20" long it would only take a large'ish knock to bend the rods causing all sorts of issues with steering especially if I'm at speed. if this was a low speed cruiser then long servo arms would not be and issue. In he past i have never used a long rod to move the rudders normally most of the connectors are around the 4" mark and i use servo arms with a spring mechanism in that takes the knocks rather then passing them into the servos gearing (better known as a servo saver)

http://www.cpvracing.com/detail.asp?id=14671

[Circlip]

You don't have to use rods to connect the servo if it's in the cabin Prophet, closed loops (wires) will do it. If you want to servo save, a spring in each line works.

  Regards   Ian.

[Prophet]

your proably right... I'm outta excuses,,.. HAVE you seen my driving?

[triumphjon]

with regard to servos , i keep mine rudder servo as close to the rudder s as possible , the 1/12th spear & the fantome im working on both have the servo on its side mounted on a peice of 3mm plywood secured to the hull bottom beetween the rudder posts , i also use a standard sevo , its always easy to fit extension leads to the leads & if your worried about them drifting apart during sailing seal them with a peice of heat shrink tubing over the plug /socket  ! well i was hoping to have got my shafts fitted this morning , in fact all i managed was to drill the holes ! but i did manage to make a strudder unit for another project (v24 ) jon

[Prophet]

my progress today was real slow heart wasn't in it today proably because for the first time in weeks the weather was just right to go to the lake .. i packed up yacht in hand and do of Mrs said where do you think your going i want them shelfs put up ....

after that .. well boat plonked on the stand managing to catch the rudder and bend it ... so that was repaired with a new rod & shelfs got put up ..

so far today i changed my plan and epoxy ed the props in place and started to work out the new superstructure postions and dimensions , little choice at this point but get the marking right so i know the room in the boat for the electronics, by the looks of it i will be mounting the radio tray and battery's into the cabin section behind the motors, which should be OK might be a tad heavy in the front if it is i may just stick some expanding foam in forward compartment and into the bow to aid in boyency i doubt it will come to that but only once the hulls is sealed and water trials can start will i know ... mind you saying that most of the weight will be practically central in the boat.

next is planning the water cooling inlets i was originally going to add water scoops behind in front of the props but with the space left between the props and the rudder being only 1" its a tad tight for that option so i think i will be mounting the scoops one the outer edge next to the prop,, only way to see if that method of cooling will work is sea trials, but i do have a plan if they dint work well, which will be to mount a 6v micro water pump and draw the water through the cooling lines, not ideal situation as its extra weight and an extra battery to carry, todays a bad day gonna go sulk for the night   

[red181]

if it helps, here is my setup with reference to rudder servo. The rear planked deck section is removed in one go, with the rear bench seat that goes across the boat left to right permanently attached to this section (some Huntsman 28's had seats that went down either side, as the rear transom was 2 opening doors for easy access into boat, hence no rear ladder on some boats....perhaps that answers the previous questions regarding the platform and ladder).

my rudder servo is attached to the centre with a fabricated mount, meaning a short rod to the rudder post. I have a reasonably large rudder, and its worth noting that at high speed, and really thrashing it around, my standard futaba servo gave up, now replaced with a digital metal gear servo. Those twin large rudders will need some serious turning at speed. 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-MG995-Hi-Speed-Torque-M-Metal-Gear-RC-Servo-Horns-/270487058778?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3efa48f95a

great value!

[Prophet]

Thanks for the post ~Red, in regard to my rudder control servo i will be using a high torque high speed metal geared servo , from the 8th scale IC Cars ( so real large servo )

Alright for todays update on the build..

Got a load done made up for a lost day yesterday OK so first off trip down to the local builders yard.. purchased a few sheets of Chinese marine ply 3.5mm & 9mm both 8x4 sheets total spend £30, both sheets are for a few builds not just this one to be honest i only needed a 4x2 sheet of 3mm ply to do whats required to finish this project but buying in bulk is cheaper at the local yard.

So first job today....

 Make up the remaining templates

Making the templates required using some of the original super structure parts then modding them for the boat using some common sense and lots of pics for references( working from a plan is pointless with this conversion) Seeing how this huntsman is the 31 theres a issues with converting this to a 28 , the hull is quite long and the transom deck section is longer then it should be meaning that the super structure is no longer going to be accurate. something i should have though about way earlier.

Its not all bad... it will actually look like a hybrid 28 being longer will also make the boat sleeker to the eye, well i hope it does or this will hit ebay the moment its finished....



Next up is the transfer the templates to the 3.5mm ply & cut them out



At this point i have to work from the inside out because of the superstructures internal open deck detail, this included cutting a section out of the bulkhead support  which will house the store section on each side











Now slot all the parts together for a dry fit







Tomorrow i will be cutting out the side sections for the exterior which will inc the cabin itself, the floors for the rear deck area & the servo/seat at the rear. At this point its easier to get the super structure built allowing me to work the internal gubbins of the boat without changing everything later as well as not causing any damage to the hull while its in its current 'fragile' state

And that concluded tonight work next post in a day or so.

[Circlip]

Whether prop driven or electric driven, neither work unless the boat is in the water. Prop driven is foolproof providing the scoop isn't blocked (applies to both) and the pipes are SECURLY connected to the in and out fittings.

  Regards   Ian

[Prophet]

do you think that placing them in the 1" gap between the rudder and prop will be enough room ??

[Perkasaman2]

Hi Prophet, I found that the water scoop is best be located in the wash generated by the radius of the props - within the  last third of their tips. I mounted the last inlet very close to the prop......... 1/8" clearance and filed/sharpened the lip of the inlet to max the force of the flow. What size engines have you chosen? (You might actually not need cooling coils etc e.g. twin 700 BB TURBOS driving a similar hull size on 12v were only warm, since they have a moderately effective built-in cooling fan on the rear of their armatures.) 

[red181]

Hi Prophet

the large rear section that completes the front cabin, you might want to think about cutting out access into this very large area for electronics etc. The Veron Huntsman 28 had a removeable roof section, I did away with this and made a one piece roof (well, someone did it for me! ) and we opened up the front cabin from the rear section. This means all my electroniics are here away from everything else, and my mast is now removeable from inside incase of storage or breakage. Its a shame to close up such a large area, also, when playing around with weight distribution, its a good place for a battery pack  

[Prophet]

In regards to motors I'm in two minds, either grapner 600's or torpedo 800's ( marine modelling international is featuring on the rear cover the torpedo twin power pack with the esc's and other parts) and run them on twin 12v 7A LA(lead acid) battery's as for the cabin storage ... he he your gonna have to wait to see what i do i can't let all my secrets out in one hit but i promise it will be worth the wait. I'm currently working on the super structure and will be for the next few days and have plans for access panel's etc to all compartments, all will be reveled over the next day or so.

My feeling is that i will mount the water inlets in between the rudder and prop dead center 1/2" i was intending to use water scoops from cornwall models but they will probably be to large to fit so i will most likely create a scoop and get it in place, I'll sort that out shortly one thing at a time i have so much going on with this build with modding everything that if i get to carried away i will forget what I'm doing and end up messing something up that's going to take forever to fix.

[LarryW]

THIS IS SWORDSMAN ASSHOWN ON YOUR INFO PICS HUNTSMANS LITTLE BROTHER[...........CHEERS LARRY.

[Perkasaman2]

Hi Prophet, Your twin 50mm (S or X rated)  props will need large size high torque direct drive motors, an advert in the wanted section is well worth a try.......... offers might make up  a matched pair of suitable units from Mayhemmers who have moved to brushless power. These batteries are heavy but you can get good perfomance and quite reasonable endurance (12v 14 amp/hr.) if you keep the build weight of this large hull to an absolute minimum and seek the most efficient delivery of the thrust generated. These classics were never lightweights  .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tg-DqMvU7qw&feature=related                      

[Prophet]

ASSHOWN LOL great name !

i only fitted 50 mm x props currently to make sure i have adequate clearance i will be swapping to 40mm 3 blade brass. I'm not to fussed on out right speed my local lakes not that big. my budget is limited to some of the parts i can buy, the wife only gives me a monthly budget to spend so i sometimes have to save it for a few months to buy the expensive bits.

Motors will be one of the last things i purchase so i will most likely test it using standard 540's and upgrade the motors as and when, my younger brother has a swordsman he purchased of ebay a short while ago and my father and him spent a few months rebuilding it, it runs a single 540 on a mechanical esc on a single 3300mh lipo he gets a good 10 Min's run time and its pretty fast easily run the length of the lake in under 30 seconds so with that I'm mind I'm optimistic. on a lighter side which i only found outlast night that during the rebuild my father from his hay day of IC competition boating ,has an original huntsman GRP mould.... which is now around 45 years old .... if i had only known earlier... i will try to steal the mould at some point and knock out a few hulls for next year. apparently he used that hull for a multitude of IC competitions during the 60-70's ( he was nation champion at some point in his life i will try to find details of that if anyone intrested you never know you might have known him!)

[Prophet]

Alright Quick Post to let everyone know work on this project has stopped for about a week or so i should get back to it asap. but after reading through the springer section over the past few weeks i have decided to build a springer for my daughter and get her involved in boating , (not only that its going to be a dedicated rescure boat.) shes 5 so its going to be robust!!!

Good few reasons to take a break I'm still waiting for delivery of the GRP after a few phone calls made there still waiting for there delivery so that order was canceled and I'm placing a new one with with someone else later in the week.

once the springers built i will return to this. i only estimate a week i will post my build log for that on the springer section if anyone is intrested.

keep a look out.... I'll be back !

but feel free to continue to comment on this build so far it will give me time to look through everything and adjust my build according to practicality as well as using some tops tips I've gained over the past weeks

Prophet

[Perkasaman2]

Variety is the spice of life.   I tend to work in bursts ................ plodding through projects is not my style. I find solutions or inspiration  often when I set aside the issues.......... it's paradoxical. Mind you I get 'senior moments' anyway.   It would be interesting to calculate the scale speed and displacement for the 46" hull but I don't have this data for the original boat.

[Prophet]

Yes i tend to do the same have multiple builds going at one time, this was the only build this year that was going to be solo, but when i saw the springer tugs i was fascinated and i couldn't put it off any longer to build one but it will give me a good chance to work out details on the huntsman and i hope make it a better build and more enjoyable for everyone else to see.

fortunate i don't see me being away from her for much more then a week i mean in 2 hours last night i basically constructed the hull, keel/rudder support and the rudder! todays I'm working on the hull planking then the super structure so i expect by Friday it might even be done!!

In regards to Water Displacement it should be around 13.7 Lb of displacement given that the boat will weigh in around the 6kg mark i think....


Correct me if I'm wrong i rarely work out displacements but it looks about right

[triumphjon]

glad to see im not the only person thats biulding more than one model at a time ! not only am i restoring / biulding a large mfa/ fairey fantome , but ive also got a fairey spear & spearfish , a hunt 18 and have just done a deal with somebody and got an areokits sea rover for restoration too !

[Prophet]

  two @ a time is more then enough for me but what ever floats your boat