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[ixion]

with the deck sitting in the hull, and no raised walls to keep the water out, the water is able to pool on the deck and eventually seep into the hull.

It is only minimal seepage, and only occurs in choppy waters, but I'd like to keep it out if possible. It's a bit worrying on larger lakes.

I wouldn't worry too much about water getting in, I have had a Thunder Tiger Lobmaster for 18 months and sail it in rough water and salt water. Water does get in and the outside of the motor has surface rust on it but it's still going strong. Just get as much water as you can out after you have finished sailing, I use a turkey baster then mop up the last bit with kitchen roll.

[essex2visuvesi]

After you have got the worst of the water out chuck a few bags of silica gel inside the hull this will help dry the inside :)

[Prophet]

honestly i think the silicon trick it the best you can get given the fact that the whole deck is removable, try this..

put the deck on and carfully remove the excess silicone from the model , next put a new bead of silicon on the deck using the cling film technique to the hull this will allow the new silicon bead to touch the one on the hull causing 2 surfaces to press together with some flex improving the overall seal.

other method might be to along the inside of the boat create your own water proof barrier expoy in place so it goes up to to deck level  leaving about 1/2" gap around the sides (any water will get trapped there) then on the deck put some 1/4 obeche strips around where the new barriers edges will meet that will stop all water entering the main area of the hull, any water leaks will be in the 1/2" gap so its not water tight but it will stop water getting to the expensive parts it will also aid in a capsize as long as the deck is fitted tightly down no water will be able to break the seal of the new internal wall  

thats the best ideas i have both methods do work i have done both on other models that have similar issues (rtr yacht i have had this issue i fixed it using the 2nd method i suggested)

[Netleyned]

Cut some scuppers level with the deck as well
Most of the water will then go back outboard


Ned

[DickyD]

I agree with Ned, cut some scuppers in the bulwarks and most of your water will run away. 

[ixion]

Cut some scuppers level with the deck as well
Most of the water will then go back outboard

DON'T do that. The boat is double skinned if you cut holes the water will fill between the walls of the boat and it will sink!

[GrafVonJon]

Thanks again,

Excellent suggestions.

I think i'm going to silicone the uderside of the deck, forming a silicone to silicone join as Prophet suggested. THEN, if i still get issues, I'll see about constructing an internal wall for the deck to sit on.

Regarding the scuppers: I thought about cutting holes earlier today, but thought they would let just as much water in as they would let out  
So is there a knack to this, and where are they cut? The back (sorry stern). Any particular size?

I do apologise for all these beginner questions, I'm getting there slowly I think. Only been on the water one day!

Thanks again,

GVJ

[Netleyned]

OOPS!
Just assumed the bulwarks were just that
Single skin.
I'll leave it to the experts out there
 

Ned

[ixion]

Just assumed the bulwarks were just that
Single skin.

The hull is double skinned with a air gap in the middle for bouyancy, that's the reason the Thunder Tiger's are almost unsinkable

[GrafVonJon]

Phew - Ixion... Just saw that in time! I was just looking up what a bulwark was so I could cut it!

You're right, I forgot the hull is double-skinned.

Looks like I'll be getting busy with the silicone.

Also, I love your Lobmaster, I commented on it on a another thread. I intend to detail and modify mine, once I have it seaworthy(er). I know nothing about ships, but modeling skills aren't too bad, so at least she'll look the part on the outside...

It's also comforting to know 'proper' boaters also have time for a cheap RTR model like mine. I was hoping it wasn't going to get mocked, but quite the contrary.  

[Prophet]

meh, rtr kits, scratch builds there all boats that makes you a boater and worth our time 

[Perkasaman2]

Hi Graph, it might also be worth checking that the prop shaft/tube is not allowing water to pass into the hull when the boat is stationary. Just a thought.    Perky

[malcolmfrary]

Does the double skinning extend above deck level into the bulwarks?  If it doesn't, no problem making freeing ports.  If it does, once the ports are cut, the skins and the void between them will be revealed.  The gap can be filled with milliput or similar.  Works on my SHG trawler, where the bulwarks are double skinned with a very wide gap.

[ixion]

Does the double skinning extend above deck level into the bulwarks?

Yes

If it does, once the ports are cut, the skins and the void between them will be revealed.  The gap can be filled with milliput or similar. 

It's a lot of work though and in my opinion not worth it for the small amount of water that gets in!

[GrafVonJon]

the prop shaft seems pretty watertight, plus I can see by where the water is that it's coming from between the deck and the hull.

I'll make a note of it to check later in case it loosens up over time though, thanks.

I'll finish messing with it and then get some silicone on the bottom of the deck. Hopefully have less water in there next weekend.
It's worth pointing out, in case anyone else is following this who may be eying one of these boats up, that it is a very minor amount of water that's getting in. Not even enough to need a syringe to remove it. A bit of kitchen towel does that job on it's own. I'm just very pedantic about this sort of stuff, and as a newbie to the hobby still a bit apprehensive about loosing her when I see choppy waves coming over the bulwarks when she's 200 yards out!

That and the whole water/electric thing.

[Dekan]

You are a worrier. My friends has been abused in choppy waters for months ...no problem. Just put the rx in a balloon and seal the neck with an elastic band..Suck any water out with a large plastic disposable syringe... got mine from the chemist..

Fit some fuel tubing to the syringe so you can get in those hard to get places  .. Don't buy any needles you don't want the taking an interest