Hi there Meyer
I am putting the reply to your PM on the open forum, cos I am unable to send a drawing through PM’s (unless there is a way I don’t know of ).
A while ago, I made stanchions for HMS Leeds Castle and the SS Moray Firth, I used 1/32 brass split pins. These split pins came from a trade stand at the Harrogate Show and for the life of me I cannot recall the name of the guy, but he did have a wide selection of split pins, rivets & so forth – he was selling them intentionally for the steam engineers amongst us. To be honest, they are one of the most difficult things to source as regards the correct size needed – plenty 1/16 diameter split pins at various lengths – but – once below that size it becomes more difficult to find. The way I made mine originally was using a pair of ‘flat nosed’ pliers; fitting a 0.8 high speed drill shank, into the split pin where I needed the ball joint location and then crimping it with the pliers. I have found that the legs of the split pin tended to twist and stay open.
So, I made myself a small jig from a 3 inch steel hinge (from an old door) I closed the hinge up first of all and I then drilled 2 holes at 90° 0 one hole a slightly smaller diameter than the split pin I was using, the other hole was for the steel hardened pin to form the ball joint. There is a 3rd hole which is slightly larger than the other 2 holes which is drilled in the position where the first 2 holes dissect. This is to allow relief for the shaping of the ball.
Using this method, kept the legs of the split pin true – and I was able to make 2 & 3 bald stanchions quite easily.
I am attaching a scribble of the hinge jig I made to help you understand how I have done it. For smaller scale stanchions, I tend to use ready-made ones, especially at 1/96 scale. I have used John Haynes’ brass etched stanchions – although they are excellent stanchions I found them slightly fragile for a working model – they are excellent though for a static model – being easy to fit and solder or glue.
For deck edge and vulnerable areas on a model I use James Lane (Display Models) Ltd, Blyth, Northumberland. He advertises in Model Boats magazine, but, he doesn’t yet have a website. These stanchions of James Lane are made up on the same principle as the split pin – and they are a lot sturdier, especially if they are soldered. He does a lot of scales on request.
Hope this is of some help.
Aye
John e. Bluebird