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[Terryt]

Help please.
When testing my boat in my pond, the propeller came off despite there being a lock nut tightened as much as I dare. Fortunately, I was able to recover it [it was int the shallow end].
This has made me nervous about sending the boat out on the lake and I was wondering if the use of Locktite or Hermetite is recommended. I hesitate to use super glue in case I need to remove the propeller in the future.
Thanks for any help.
TerryT.

[bosun]

Loctite Terry, No problem
Bosun
(another Terry )

[DickyD]

I use Zap Threadlocker 

[Bunkerbarge]

Was there any loose feeling in either the prop thread or the locknut thread?  If so loctite will certainly be a good idea.  Sometimes even when tightened together a bit of play can allow them to become undone, expecially on a high revving prop but it applies to othyers as well.

Normal thread lock should do the job but if things are a bit sloppy you could use bearing lock and it should still come apart OK afterwards.  Don't use cyano as it could prove very difficult to remove again.

[Terryt]

Thanks for the help.
Bunkerbarge: There didn't appear to be any slop between the prop and the locknut, so I'll try the Loctite as suggested. Maybe I'm just too cautious with the spanner [pliers!] and could have tightened a little more.
Thanks again to you all.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

I always fit a serrated washer  (crinkle type washer)  between the nut and the Prop and add loctight.  The props cost enough with throwing them in deep end.   

Ken

 

[dbninja]

could be an M4 prop on a 2BA shaft?  i have several of these on my old Aerokits boats!

dont bother with loctite, just tighten it all up  "proper" tight


also

check the condition of your propshaft bearings for unreasonable amounts of free play, and shaft straightness,


vibration could be shakin it all loose!

db

[triumphjon]

could be an m4 prop on a 2ba shaft !  please tell me how you get an m4 hole onto a shaft thats 5mm ? for reference a m4 prop will be a sloppy fit onto a 4 BA  shaft , m5 will fit onto a 2 BA shaft but will be slightly sloppy on the shaft . i have recently reused the outer shaft in one of my builds but as it was missing the inner shaft ive had one made by marks model bits , the new m5 shaft in stainless steel has been fitted into an old 2ba housing after id reamed the bearings to suit . as for loosing a prop ive always locked mine up with the correct sized spanner while gripping the prop ! note that if your prop has loctite bonding it to the shaft it WILL REQUIRE HEAT  to break the seal ! how many of us carry a blow torch to the lake just in case we should happen to break a prop blade ? ?

[wibplus]

........! note that if your prop has loctite bonding it to the shaft it WILL REQUIRE HEAT  to break the seal ! how many of us carry a blow torch to the lake just in case we should happen to break a prop blade ? ?

Do what the heli guys do. Use BLUE Loctite very sparingly and you can undo it whenever you want without using any heat. Using GREEN or RED loctite will require heat to remove them (especially GREEN).   

Hope this helps.   

Bill

[Terryt]

Thanks again for the help.
Bill, I didn't realise there is more than one type of Loctite, I'll take care to get the right one.
Terryt

[tt1]

Hi Terry, Bill is spot on, have used various forms many times, blue will do the job, ironically it's in a RED bottle loctite threadlocker 242 is the one, (270 is the green)

        Regards, Tony.

[sailorboy61]

Or if you want it cheaper... Toolstation threadlock, available in low/high power.... only £2.81 but for 10ml as opposed to most others 3/5ml.....

[Guy Bagley]

nail varnish.... get it from a £1 shop, makes fantastic treadlock, and removing it is easy, add a couple of drops of remover leave for a few minutes and job done- only good for brass props though !

[RaaArtyGunner]

nail varnish.... get it from a £1 shop, makes fantastic treadlock, and removing it is easy, add a couple of drops of remover leave for a few minutes and job done- only good for brass props though !