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Author Topic: "Norseman". The life of a model.  (Read 36215 times)

Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #100 on: December 18, 2010, 02:02:31 pm »

Just to finish off the rigging of a “standard” derrick……
Earlier on I mentioned that in “olden times” there was an alternative to winding the topping lift around large cleats. This was the “Monkeys Face” method. “Norseman” had both. I think the sketch of the “monkeys face” should explain the method easily enough. On the model I’m afraid that the thing isn’t visible to a camera as it’s behind all sorts of other bits’n’pieces.
I hope my later efforts at the derrick heel fitting is OK.
General cargo ships more often than not used the “Union Purchase” rig. This is simply having one derrick plumbing the hold and the other one plumbing the quayside. The 2 cargo runners are connected to a single hook. Then it’s just a case of “lift, transfer the weight, lower”. There’s one more item to fit though. The weight of an empty hook plus the cargo runner often isn’t enough to allow the empty hook to be lowered….so a weight called a “ponder ball” sits above the hook. Quite prominent.
Each derrick will have 2 guys. A double block at the top and a single at the deck end. Always rigged with rope and not wire.
When using “Union Purchase” each derrick will be fitted with a “preventer” wire. This is simply a wire with a spliced loop that slides over the derrick head and “prevents” the derrick causing havoc if a guy rope breaks.
There are many weird and wonderful rigs which I could post pictures of, if there’s any request to see them…they all had their uses and in modelling terms can make the model look more “interesting”.
End of derricks (?).
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #101 on: December 18, 2010, 02:41:45 pm »

Just to finish off the rigging of a “standard” derrick……
Earlier on I mentioned that in “olden times” there was an alternative to winding the topping lift around large cleats. This was the “Monkeys Face” method. “Norseman” had both. I think the sketch of the “monkeys face” should explain the method easily enough. On the model I’m afraid that the thing isn’t visible to a camera as it’s behind all sorts of other bits’n’pieces.
I hope my later efforts at the derrick heel fitting is OK.
General cargo ships more often than not used the “Union Purchase” rig. This is simply having one derrick plumbing the hold and the other one plumbing the quayside. The 2 cargo runners are connected to a single hook. Then it’s just a case of “lift, transfer the weight, lower”. There’s one more item to fit though. The weight of an empty hook plus the cargo runner often isn’t enough to allow the empty hook to be lowered….so a weight called a “ponder ball” sits above the hook. Quite prominent.
Each derrick will have 2 guys. A double block at the top and a single at the deck end. Always rigged with rope and not wire.
When using “Union Purchase” each derrick will be fitted with a “preventer” wire. This is simply a wire with a spliced loop that slides over the derrick head and “prevents” the derrick causing havoc if a guy rope breaks.
There are many weird and wonderful rigs which I could post pictures of, if there’s any request to see them…they all had their uses and in modelling terms can make the model look more “interesting”.
End of derricks (?).
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #102 on: December 18, 2010, 02:43:56 pm »

A quick mention of ladders.
1.   Whatever scale you use please ensure that your scale man can climb them in comfort without either getting a hernia or tippy-tapping up treads that are too close together.
2.   The ladder handrails. Too often do I see the “stanchion” part of the rails set at 90 degrees to the ladder sides and not perpendicular to the deck.
Think about it. A handrail (at the bottom end) that has a big curve in it is an injury just waiting to happen. All stanchions should be vertical.
There’s an excellent plastic product on the market for making ships ladders. Two side pieces with slots for the treads that comes in an easy kit-form. Excellent except for the fact that the moulded “sockets” for the stanchions are totally wrong. This is another “bought in” product that I’ve used when making steel ladders. But I make my own wooden ones using the plastic ones as a template.
Wooden ladders will have a (brass) strip or angle on the leading edge of each tread (a bit like the door treads). There will also be some sort of anti-skid thing at both ends of the ladder. Steel decks will generally just have a few steel strips welded to the deck, but on wooden decks these are small strips of hardwood. 2 reasons, one is that it prevents undue wear to the deck, and they give a bit of “foot grip”.
Some ships have nice shiny wooden rails rather than painted steel.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #103 on: December 18, 2010, 05:40:34 pm »

Hatches
These things, although a major part of any model that has them, seem to be generally totally ignored as far as “reasonable” construction is concerned. And once again, no tools beyond a ruler and a sharp knife is required to make them.
I know that I keep banging on about this….but about 90% of any of my models have been built using just those 2 basic items. All the “fancy” tools I now have are really underemployed except when really needed (usually to make my life easier). Hatch coamings are a case in point.
This time I include drawings of cargo hatches as they were when tarpaulins were used as hatch covers, held in place by steel strips and wedges. Oh my goodness! The lousy hours us cadets and ABs spent covering and uncovering these things! Replacing the wooden hatch boards hovering over a lethal drop. Broken finger nails..I can still shudder. But that’s just the way it was, for everybody.
    The first 4 pictures are “the rules” as they applied to this sort of hatch. I’ve got no desire to embellish them!
The last 3:
“Norseman” had only 2 conventional hatches. Both quite small, but the rules still applied. As the ship didn’t carry cargo as such, the small for’d hatch was mainly used for loading stores and odd bits of kit needed in cable work. The larger hatch was really an access to the cable drums and with the aid of a portable ladder gave easy access to the crew accommodation. Either way, now and again they had to be covered in the time honoured way with lots of wooden hatchboards, canvas and wedges.
The last 2 photos are of 2 hatches on “Baroda” taken during her construction.
Apart from the coamings themselves, there are 2 types of derrick heel mountings. The half-round steel strip around the top of these “normal” cargo hatches is called a “Tyzack Moulding”. (That’s all I know about Mr. Tyzack), but it made securing the hatches better than just stretching the tarpaulins over a sharp edge.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #104 on: December 20, 2010, 03:00:15 pm »

The “Standard Compass” and its Binnacle.
I’m afraid that the old and slightly fuzzy B&W photo that accompanies this bit is the only one I have of the actual one on “Norseman”. But it’s really no different to any other even up to this day (2010). There are “modern” metal ones around, and have been for a long time now, but the wooden version is still a common fitting.
But first some dimensions.
The Quartermaster doing the weekly polish is about 5’4” tall.
The “Soft Iron” (“soft” in a magnetic sense….still iron) spheres are 6” in diameter.
The “Flinders Bar” is 2ft long. Those 2 measurements are pretty universal.
The “Barrel” part is anywhere between 12” and 15” in diameter.
      I’m not going to go into the depths of “magnetism” here, but a couple of notes may be of academic interest. There are 2 types of magnetism that affect the accuracy of a ships magnetic compass. That induced by the earths magnetic field, and that induced by the ships own magnetic field. Both sorts have to be “corrected for. The spheres and Flinders bar are the only visible correctors, but all over the “barrel” part are little wooden doors, behind which are holes with scads of round bar magnets in them…but as you can’t see them, forget them.
     The “ridge” you can see on the brass top between the Flinders bar and the sphere is the join between the removable top and the fixed bit.
     Note the obligatory voice pipe leading down into the wheelhouse.
     The removable lid is the “interesting bit. When I made the one on the “Norseman” model I didn’t know how to make and fit the various attachments, but during this re-build I decided to leave my original version in place.
This compass is called the “standard” because it’s used to allow the steering compass(es) to be compared to it and allowances made as required….but no need to go into all that. Having said that, there aren’t many reasons to take the lid off. Visual checks can be made by simply opening on of the 2 brass “doors” set into the lid. The one on the rear of the lid is a relatively large elliptical “flap”, while the smaller one at the front can be either a circular drop-down flap or a sliding panel. Your choice.
On one side of the lid is a brass “container” for an oil lamp.
The reason to remove the lid? Primarily to allow the OOW to take “azimuths” and “amplitudes”. Amplitudes are the easier option. These are compass bearings of the rising and setting of a known heavenly body. No Barry, not Jennifer Lopez. Simple stuff like the sun, moon or a planet. When that bearing is worked out and compared to what the “true” bearing should be the difference is the “Compass Error”. The geographical location of the ship is responsible for these “errors”. One is “Variation” which  is due to the North Magnetic” pole and the strength/angle of the magnetic “flux” where the ship happens to be. (put simply, the “flux” will be almost horizontal at the magnetic equator, but vertical at the magnetic poles). Then there’s “Deviation”. No, Barry, you’ve got the wrong sort of deviation in mind. Which on its own is a separate subject altogether.
There’s also a curved spirit level fitted to the aft side of the “barrel”.
I imagine that after ploughing your way through that lot you’ll be no wiser than you were. But compasses are really a subject on their own. Even with the advent of GPS systems and all the electronic bells and whistles they are (or should be) still an important on board item.
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pugwash

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #105 on: December 20, 2010, 04:21:39 pm »

Bryan I have really enjoyed this build series  as much for "how to" and "how not to" but its been an education into  the workings of a merchant ship
of which I had very little knowledge.
Geoff
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BarryM

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #106 on: December 20, 2010, 04:30:11 pm »

There you go, Bryan, see what I told you?

Barry M
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #107 on: December 20, 2010, 05:17:28 pm »

The dreaded Gratings.
I’m glad that my favourite scale is 1:48. I just cannot conceive making a grating at 1:96 scale.
Some gratings on a ship are used as box-covers over such stuff as bollards where they can double up as seats. The officers quarterdeck on “Norseman” had these, and very neat they were. The only problem with a grating at model size is that of making the thing. Again, it’s the scale size that makes life a tad difficult. Gratings in my experience are made of 1” square hardwood fitted into a wooden frame. The holes are also 1” square. Each 1” strip is half-lapped into the strip going across it.
The closest size of saw to 1” is the blade fitted into the “Eclipse” Junior Hacksaw. The razor saw blade is too thin! In no way, even with the perfect eyesight I had back then, and with the aid of an illuminated magnifier, could I imagine making the gratings less than 1/16” “thick” if I had to cut numerous 1/64” deep slots, 1/32” apart.
This needed a period of my version of “thought”. A jig was needed, obviously. Here I should really take a leaf out of the old “thriller” writers books and say the equivelant of “with one bound he was free!”. But life isn’t like that. Aaaghh, the things I do for my art (!).
With any luck and a bit of forbearance from you, the sketch will hopefully give you an idea of my little sliding vice idea, with guide slots.
The photo in the previous post shows 2 of the larger gratings, the second one is for the “leadsmans stand” and is about 1” x 1.5”.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #108 on: December 20, 2010, 05:30:13 pm »

Bryan I have really enjoyed this build series  as much for "how to" and "how not to" but its been an education into  the workings of a merchant ship
of which I had very little knowledge.
Geoff
Thanks Geoff. But "Norseman" was neither fish nor fowl. Not an RN but neither was she a "standard" commercial ship. Although "owned" by Cable and Wireless, C&W in itself was really a part of HMG...just convenient to call it otherwise.
I've only ever built one model in your favourite colour...and you haven't seen it yet (as far as I know)...it's the largest I've done at just under 8ft. Hope to see you soon. Bryan.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #109 on: December 20, 2010, 05:33:28 pm »

There you go, Bryan, see what I told you?

Barry M
OK, smarty-pants. I suppose everybody has to get something right sometime. Having said that, thanks, and keep kicking me back into the land of the not quite dead yet. Cheers. Bryan.
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BarryM

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #110 on: December 20, 2010, 05:56:26 pm »

Bryan,

An invoice for my consultancy fee is in the post.  :-))

Barry M
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #111 on: December 20, 2010, 06:15:56 pm »

The “Belaying Pin”.
In common parlance belaying pins are always at hand for the “goodie” to pick up and whack a “baddie” over the head. I’d hate to be hit with this one. Solid brass and weighing about 6lb.
This is an original from “Lady Dennison Pender”….an almost sister of “Norseman”.
Their main purpose however was to “belay” a rope that needed to be “belayed” or “tied off” temporarily in a position that it wouldn’t normally be in. On the old cable ships they were racked up in holes in the foredeck taffrails, although a few of the seamen carried their own in a sort of holster, together with a whole range of other stuff. I suppose they’re like hens teeth by now, but on older and more specialised ships they were still commonly found and used.
Just thought you might be interested!
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #112 on: December 21, 2010, 03:57:15 pm »

How deep is the water?
We all know that “echo sounders” in their various guises have been around for longer than most of us have been on this watery planet. But the standard echo-sounder fitted in your average ship has its limitations. Fishing vessels use a specialised version which is beyond my knowledge. Does a normal commercial vessel need a depth sounder that will give an accurate reading when the water is 3 miles deep? I wouldn’t have thought so. Nor do they work particularly well when there’s next to nothing under the keel. I’m not suggesting for one moment that ships regularly steam along whilst almost aground, but it’s not uncommon for a ship to take the ground when loading. Ports and harbours are fickle places, liable to silting up a bit, most are tidal and the water density can range from a Specific Gravity of 1025 (“Salt” water), to an SG of 1000 (“Fresh” water) and all points between. All the above affect the ships draught. But this is about ascertaining the depth, not stuff like “Fresh Water Allowance” and so on. Sometimes it’s necessary to use the time honoured “Hand Lead Line”. A length of rope with a weight on the end. That’s the principle, made a bit more complicated in practice. If a sounding is to be taken in port to see if the ship has actually taken the ground then even a first trip apprentice could do it. Difficulties arise when the ship is moving through waters of unpredictable depth. However, that’s pretty “old hat” these days, but what a Lead Line can show that an echo sounder can’t is the composition of the sea bed. The “lead” weight has a hollow in its base that is filled with “tallow” (or whatever the modern equivalent is). If the sea bed is just “rock” then nothing will show, but mud, sand, gravel and so on will. As good charts always show the sea bed composition, a vague idea of the ships location can be guessed at. Before the days of Radar, RDF etc ships coming through the Western Approaches to the English Channel would take constant soundings using this method.
In my C&W time (early 1960s) some of the more experienced Captains used to insist that the crew kept the skill alive as shallow water cable-work occasionally demanded it. Just as an aside, some of the real “old salts” could get a pretty good idea where they were by simply observing the colour of the sea. A lesson I’ve put into practice myself on a few occasions (mainly for fun or as a bet).
All that lot was just an introduction as to why that little grating was stuck on the ships side under the bridge wings! Just for the leadsman to stand on and sing out his merry calls of “By the mark…..” (Hence the American author naming himself Mark Twain after the calls made during his American river steamboat time).
Then there’s the “Patent Deep Sea Sounding Machine”. I don’t know if it’s still a legal requirement for ships to be fitted with this thing, but for most of me sea-going life it was. Early ships such as “Norseman” had it fitted below one of the bridge wings (this one is behind the leadsmans platform), the other common place was right aft. Placing it aft was the easier option as the wire could be fed over a simple sheave, whereas deploying the wire over the ships side required a “sounding boom” which required rigging and generally fitted with a little special gizmo at the outer end of the boom. Another little aside. The “ deep sea” machine could be used for more than one purpose. If the line was simply attached to the 28lb lead weight then depth and bottom composition was all it did. However. Even well into the 1970s many ships (most, in fact) sent meteorological reports every few hours. Mostly the reports only included what could be seen or measured from the bridge. Some ships were asked to do more. Particularly those that worked off the beaten track. For some reason or other RFA “Pearleaf” was one of these. Although the weight was still attached, there was a tube sealed at its upper end also clipped to the wire. This tube was coated internally with some reddish brown stuff which changed colour as depth pressure forced water into the tube. On recovery, by placing the tube against a scale a pretty accurate depth was calculated. A Thermometer could also be attached. “Pearleaf” was equipped to go a big step further. She carried many “Bathythermographs” which measured everything you can think of. Probably only of use to the compilers of charts and data needed by submarines. So, an old bit of kit still in use during the age of nuclear submarines.
“Norseman” also had a bit of equipment I’d never seen before…or since, for that matter. A steam sounding machine. I described this machine and its use when writing the “Norseman” episode of my life in the “Nautical, strange but true” tales, so I won’t go into that any more, except to remind you that this thing used 56lb cannon balls as weights, and could “sound” depths as much as those found in the Mariana Trench.
     My version of the “manual” sounder is entirely from plasticard. It could have done with being a bit more detailed, but as it isn’t all that easy to see I’ve just left it the way it was.
      The steam machine is (to me) horrendously difficult to photograph in a completed state, so this is one I took 20 odd years ago during the first construction, but I hope that you can at least see its place in the scheme of things. This is an all aluminium model, and after all these years, it’s looking as careworn as the real one.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #113 on: December 21, 2010, 05:22:01 pm »

The large spoked sheaves.
These things caused me more heartache than anything else on the model. I really didn’t have a clue where to start. But as they’re such an important part of the foredeck clutter I had to come up with something. Although I could continue with the build, my mind kept returning to this problem. Much pondering both at home and while on the bounding main. I even stooped so low as to ask the ships mucky-mob if they had any ideas. Not a clue amongst them. (I had been polite in my “approaches”!). I think this must have been while I was on one of the “improved” Tide class ships as I’d been presented with a “Pocher” kit of a Rolls Royce Phantom that I was enjoying. And it had spoked wheels. Little ideas began to nurture themselves.
     Over what seemed to me to be years, I’d experimented with all sorts of ways of at least making the outer “rim”…to no avail. If I’d been a yachtsman I suppose the answer would have been almost immediate. Sail “cringles”. Those bits of circular brass that are clenched into sails and let ropes pass through them. Now I knew how Archimedes must have felt. Use these things without clenching them up and in their “raw” state would be perfect. Living where I do, sourcing some of these of the correct size was no problem. But fitting the spokes certainly was. Much more ponderings.
    At this time I was still using (infrequently) my “Unimat” lathe. I was either feeling pretty flush at the time or I just succumbed to temptation, but browsing for “bits’n’pieces” in Plymouth that sold Unimat bits I noticed that the Unimat range had a “dividing head”. Not cheap. Now I use a “”Proxxon” lathe, but I did wonder about their dividing head. The Unimat head was one of the few bits that wasn’t stolen, and not only does it fit the Proxxon perfectly, it’s also a lot better than the Proxxon offering. Not wanting to drill holes through my cringles and looking at the wheels on my Rolls Royce there’s a nice inner rim that could hold spokes. The rest, as they say, is history. A brass tube that fitted inside the cringles. A wooden arbor into the tube to prevent distortion, lots of careful drilling and soldering and eventually the job was done. I’m still quite proud of them even though they’re all just part of the general array of fittings. The framework around them is again of plastic angle which does so many jobs on a ship model.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #114 on: December 21, 2010, 05:57:37 pm »

Notes on Little Things.
OK, OK…I know that I’ve posted a lot today, but if you think I’m venturing outdoors you’re mistaken. So what better to do than this?
I suppose that at one time or another we’ve all had reason to fit small handwheels to some bit of modelled equipment. The commercially available ones are fine, the trouble is that you finish up with only a few of the size you want and not enough of the ones you need. Especially in the smaller sizes. I’ve a vague recollection of mentioning this before, but a card of “press studs” from your local sewing shop will do the job more than adequately.
    Ever thought of using domed sequins as lampshades (deck lighting clusters). They come in various sizes from the same press-stud shop.
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Colin Bishop

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #115 on: December 21, 2010, 06:23:43 pm »

If I might venture to stick a quick oar into this excellent thread, you can also get nice little handwheels by slicing through TV aerial coaxial cable. The inner circular bit that creates an airspace for the central wire has nice little spokes in it.

Sorry Bryan, carry on!

Colin
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #116 on: December 21, 2010, 07:54:46 pm »

If I might venture to stick a quick oar into this excellent thread, you can also get nice little handwheels by slicing through TV aerial coaxial cable. The inner circular bit that creates an airspace for the central wire has nice little spokes in it.

Sorry Bryan, carry on!

Colin
Colin, never thought of that one! Being a person of the yachting fraternity....did you like my use of the cringles? Bryan.
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Colin Bishop

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #117 on: December 21, 2010, 08:12:49 pm »

Yes Bryan, the use of cringles was very ingenious. Obvious when explained, but how many people would think of it?

Colin
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #118 on: December 22, 2010, 01:16:27 pm »

Two of the more prominent items amidst all the clutter on the foredeck were the two “Dynamometers”. Their simple but vital purpose was to measure the strain on the grapnel rope and/or the cable when being picked up or paid out. They look very quaint and archaic compared to the newer electronic devices, but they were, like many old and simple things, basically indestructible (I’m talking “machinery” here and not people).
     For a still makee-learney as far as lathe work was concerned turning up the main body of these things (aluminium again) was interesting. The solid wheels are made out of Perspex. I really enjoy working with this material. I used to just collect the scraps out of skips outside companys that use it. It cuts and paints like a dream.
Before (long, long ago) I was “computerised”, I had no way to make the strain-boards..now I can. Just simple scanning, enlarging, cleaning up and scaling back down again on the printer. So after 25 years or so the dynamometers have been completed!
I’m afraid that once again the 161kb limit on photos has degraded my originals. The boards are pin sharp at the original 1.5mb. On the model the boards are not much more than 1” tall.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #119 on: December 22, 2010, 01:43:15 pm »

Capstans.
I cheated a bit here. If you refer back to the last posting showing the dynamometers, you can see one of the capstans. It looks like a large paint tin. Very basic and quite ugly. Did its job, but ugly nonetheless. Dead simple to operate. Just “spin” the paint tin up or down to engage. I can’t even recall them having a braking system. Maybe they just relied on the underdeck gearing and steam pressure. Although there were bottle screw “stoppers” for use when the anchors were stowed.
Anyway. Being such ugly and simple things I figured that anyone looking at the model would just assume that I’d just skimped on the construction, so I made and fitted slightly later designs….more akin to the sort found on older warships. The 3rd one didn’t exist as far as I remember, but it has a function here. Remember the screw fitting down aft to latch the top half of the ship to the hull? This is its forward counterpart. If I was to really “update” the model and not just (just? Ha!) restore it I’d change the anchor cables for the studded sort that’s now available.
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #120 on: December 22, 2010, 02:21:46 pm »

Apart from the steam winches I think I’ve now covered just about everything except some of the smaller fittings, and some odds’n’ends that I forgot about. Unless I get some sort of “reminder” or “suggestion”.
One thing that comes to mind is the “pump”. “Norseman” had 2 of these on deck. Both of the “Downton” type. Until I actually saw one of these things I’d never even heard of them….in fact “Norseman” and the “LDP” were the only ships I ever saw with them fitted, and even then they were basically redundant. I once mentioned that being on board “Norseman” was like living in a rather splendid museum, even though all the mod-cons enjoyed today were just about non-existent.
Many of you will already be sort of familiar with the “Downton” pump (pumping out bilges or a flooded compartment), But for those who aren’t :-
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #121 on: December 22, 2010, 03:36:16 pm »

A couple of weeks ago I drew up a sort of glossary of the fittings and so on, meaning to go through them alphabetically. Fat chance, I was out of kilter within an hour.
So I beg your forbearance while I re-introduce bits I forgot about or couldn’t find. Sorry. So treat it as a sort of mystery tour.
Lifeboat oars. Depends on your scale of course, but at general modelling scales this simple method looks ok.
I know that oars are fatter in the middle than towards the ends, but when a bunch of them are laid in a lifeboat that’s almost unnoticeable. I use thin aluminium tubing about the 2nd thinnest you can get. At 1:48 the length is around 3.5”. The blades are somewhere between 3ft and 4ft long. The blades are done in seconds when squeezed in a vice and the ends smoothed off. A bit of wire stuck into the other end finishes it off ready for painting. Oars are generally just oiled or varnished. Never ever saw a painted one. Except for the blade of the longer steering oar that’s painted white. The rowing blades are stowed in the boat with the blades to the front of the boat, and the steering oars blade faces aft. I know that lifeboats have an unshipable rudder…but they also have a steering oar. Makes steering easier when taking the boat into a beach or something through surf.
     There’s a whole load of equipment in a lifeboat, most of which I was too lazy to put in. There’s so much gear that you may wonder where the “passengers” find space for themselves. I very vaguely recall that each person (at the boats capacity) has 2 square feet of space to make their backsides “comfortable”. British Airways probably used this as a guideline.
A rowing lifeboat also has a mast and a “dipping lug” sail, with attendant rigging. The sail would probably be a sort of “rusty red” in colour. I just use a scrap of material from my wifes material box, wrap and glue it to a bit of wooden stick and loosely wrap it round with “tread” to simulate the rigging. Again, all this is only a small part of the whole and is generally not closely inspected. Motor boats also have a sail, I think.
Next one is the quick and easy way to make a crutch for lifeboat oars. The earlier description may well have been confusing.
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BarryM

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #122 on: December 22, 2010, 03:52:44 pm »

Bryan,

You may recall that Downton Pumps of the double-acting portable type were also supplied as fire pumps. What use that was on a tanker I never found out. The only time I saw one used was to transfer 30 tons of Bunker 'C' after a mechanical hiccup. For some reason this was another one of those jobs only capable of being performed by Apprentices.

Barry M
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Bryan Young

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #123 on: December 22, 2010, 04:55:05 pm »

Bryan,

You may recall that Downton Pumps of the double-acting portable type were also supplied as fire pumps. What use that was on a tanker I never found out. The only time I saw one used was to transfer 30 tons of Bunker 'C' after a mechanical hiccup. For some reason this was another one of those jobs only capable of being performed by Apprentices.

Barry M
Barry, I can only suppose that now you've finished building the igloo, and the paper-laddie doesn't know where to find you all you have left for amusement is to peruse my puerile wee jobbie gibberings.
To be honest though, the only ones I ever saw were of the type in the photo, and they were fixed permanently into the deck. Since then I've only been aquainted with the more "modern" type....including the horrible gas-turbine thing that took the combined efforts of Shwatzeneger and Charles Atlas to get going. Bryan.
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BarryM

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Re: "Norseman". The life of a model.
« Reply #124 on: December 22, 2010, 05:07:31 pm »

Bryan,

This type was just a double ram pump mounted on a common shaft and operated by pulling a 5' long lever backwards and forwards. The discharge/suction were fitted for 3" hose. I can only assume that it was a BoT requirement which was ticked off on the inventory, thrown into a locker and only taken out again for Surveyor's inspection (when not used for transferring bunkers).

Yes, I always keep an eye on your ramblings to check for modelling orthodoxy.   ;D

Barry M
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